por986

The $64 one is listed as "new", but who knows - that is what I am trying to figure out. Reviews on the reseller (partsGeek) aren't stellar so they are off the list. - and while they have a 1 yr warranty on parts, I haven't gotten any confirmation replies to my emails. I have them on my garage floor contemplating rebuilding them :-\ The research goes on....

Hello, Can someone shed some light on what you would get for the roughly $1200+ difference between the axle assembly sold on Pelican Parts versus any other outlet such as allPartsExpress (recommended by my local O'Reilly Parts store)? I listed a few others I have found as well... PelicanParts $783 each http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=986-332-024-12-M100&catalog_description=Axle%20Shaft%20Assembly%20Rear%20Right%2C%20For%20Manual%20Transmissions%2C%20Boxster%20%281997-02%29%2C%20Each allPartsExpress $129 each http://www.allpartsexpress.com/item.wws?sku=POR016043&itempk=131154&mfr=OPparts&weight=19.19 AutoParts Warehouse $72 each http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/details/QQPorscheQQBoxsterQQFirst_Equipment_QualityQQAxle_AssemblyQQ20002004QQW0133-1647705.html?apwcid=P1135867996W43b3f85c7ab9e&apwid31wgDh5 PartsGeek $65 each http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/WC/134-01089325.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_term=2000-2004+Porsche+Boxster+Axle+Assembly+First+Equipment+Quality+Rear+00-04+Porsche+Axle+Assembly+2002+2001&utm_content=YN&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base I usually follow the saying "It is expensive being cheap" and will typically spend the extra money to buy what might be perceived as the better quality part, but I need some guidance here as I really don't know much about the potential differences and seeing such a price difference has me scratching my head. Is this a simple as me just not reading thoroughly and not comparing apples to apples? What gives? Thanks!

Exactly where my leak was traveling to. Because I was holding off on my clutch, the leak called my bluff finally. I am doing the work myself with the help of a friend and others on this forum (to save as much money as possible) and quite honestly, it really hasn't been that difficult. I have 'never' worked on a car before and I figured "ah schucks, why not learn on this car" - ha. The friend that is helping me has never worked on a Porshce and has said this was the easiest transmission removal he has ever done. It took us 1.5 days to remove everything - I would chalk half a day to just driving back and forth from the auto shop :-\ Note, this is in my little garage on jack stands. Once the bell housing was removed, there was a little bit of oil collected which nearly guaranteed the RMS was at fault from those I asked. FYI, I picked up a sach's clutch kit for $385, the IMS retrofit kit for approx $750*, AOS was $85, and the most expensive seems to be the CV boots that I realized I needed once I was under the car. From what I can tell, if they can't be rebuilt will cost ~$800 EACH for the axle assembly ouch! - but, I see some rebuilt ones on Ebay for about $230 each. I am holding off on that purchase until I can get the axle assembly off (the Axle nut is being stubborn) to take it to a rebuild shop. This Thursday I will release the IMS bearing to see if it is bad, but nontheless, it is getting replaced as it is literally right below the RMS. Of course, if your leak is indeed from the IMS, don't drive it at all. But, if I were betting on this, all my money would be on the RMS. As Maurice stated, you can't know for sure without getting to the parts - of course, if found, bits and pieces in the oil will give you the bad news. Whatever you do, good luck. Keep us posted - I am curious for sure. * I found that there is a $150 kit coming out supposedly this month (if not already) via PelicanParts in conjunction with LN Engineering but I was told it will likely require a regular service interval - according to LN. I chose the more expensive for the simple fact that I feel that it is more road tested. Something about a 1st gen that had me concerned.

I replaced my AOS and immediately upon driving, I noticed a leak in the rear as well. When I looked under the vehicle, the leak appeared to be coming from the block - nowhere near the AOS. I immediately suspected the RMS due to location. So, I currently have it dismantled in my garage and my suspicions were confirmed. The RMS is leaking pretty good and I have found myself in the midst of replacing the RMS, IMS, etc. Seemed very coincidental and I suspect that fixing the AOS (the subsquent vaccum) did something to the RMS. Not sure how it all interacts together, but it sure was perfect timing to not be related. Oh, to note, it didn't leak unless I drove it. Upon driving the first time, I chalked it up to residual oil from the AOS work and I didn't see anymore the next few days while it was sitting. I drove it 2 more times and both times there was a good amount of new oil on my garage floor. That was when I finally jacked it up and took a real look for the leak and discovered the AOS and related connections were bone dry.

Same happened to me (01S 60K mi). I pulled the throttle body and found oil. Replaced AOS, cleaned out throttle body, and all good in that regard. However, in my case, after replacing the AOS, the day after oil began pooling up on the garage floor. As I am doing a clutch change, I found the RMS leaking. Not sure how the two are related but was very coincidental.

I will be right behind you very soon ;) I have two on order just in case I screw up the first. hahaha

A cracked tank won't necessarily lead to fluid on the floor. Check underneath the carpet in the rear trunk. My 01 had the smallest of cracks that I didn't detect for a long time - it took a while for it to pool up in the trunk. Also, run your hand under the tank and look for obvious wetness and or residue (dried fluid).

sorry to hear that. I don't have the tools but am hoping you can share your wisdom with those such as myself that are going to change out the IMS soon. Howd' you goof, what should have been done, etc. ? If better to discuss that off this thread, please PM me. Thanks!

i just replaced my AOS last weekend - relatively easy DIY with the hardest part being the hose clamps as usual. AOS was about $88 from sunset and maybe $1+ for a screw type hose clamp - recommended. I had the occasional puffs of white smoke (1 or 2 times/yr), and then suddenly, it was heavy white/grey smoke at every startup that would last for 60seconds or so. It would appear to go away once driven, but you could see smalls amounts of smoke coming out of the exhaust if you really looked at it. I removed the Throttle body and found oil which lead me to conclude it was the AOS.

"If the car is running rough, then removing this tube and blocking off both ends should disable the system and restore previous performance. This is not a long-term fix, but instead a short-term diagnosis step to use before you replace the air-oil separator." http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/09-ENGINE-Air_Oil_Separator/09-ENGINE-Air_Oil_Separator.htm

That is pretty darn impressive!! Are you thinking of doing this as a service?

I parked my car out ONE night because we were in the middle of a move and a cat urinated (or sprayed) on the top near the base of the rear window. It took me nearly 8 months to fully get rid of the smell from the inside of the car. IMO, the tarp and/or a cover is a must if you leave outside. Having owned cats all my life, the only thing I have ever seen that actually works in training them is a combination of noise and motion that will get their attention. Maybe you can figure out a setup that can utilize the following.. http://www.amazon.co...t/dp/B000DZFFN4 Good luck!

Thanks again!!

I just replaced mine about 2 months ago. I priced out the work at my local indie shops and all were approximately $800. So I bought the tank for about $220 from Sunset and installed it with some help from a neighbor. It wasn't easy to do due to the hose clamp being difficult to get to, but I am happy I saved the extra cash. The design/implementation is a bit ridiculous as is the life expectancy of these tanks. I have owned vehicles for over 15 years with exposed tanks without such a problem. After reading a lot about these tanks and looking at the crack on mine, I believe it is due to how the tank is bolted to the body and the resulting flex as the body moves - poor design no matter how you look at it. This is one of those items you can't chalk up to it being a performance car IMO.

So sorry it has taken me this long to reply. I finally got around to opening the bay! Looking at your article Wayne, I am a bit confused since I don't see my combination of BOSCH/Porsche part numbers... 0 280 218 055 986.606.125.00 It seems clear that I need 986.606.125.01, but I would like to understand why the Bosch number I am reporting doesn't relate to Porsche's 125.01 and can I be certain that a DME reprogramming isn't necessary? Sorry, I have been conditioned to fear discrepancies :-\ I don't seem to have the best luck! Thanks again guys!!

Mistake #1, Walmart.... okay, just kidding. Found another report - 34 out of 100 http://consumerguideauto.howstuffworks.com/1997-to-2004-porsche-boxster-6.htm and this... " Porsche intended to compete against the Mercedes-Benz SLK and BMW Z3, and perhaps attract a few buyers who might otherwise fall for a Mazda Miata (which cost considerably less)." "intended" - that seems to imply that Porsche wasn't successful - at least that is how I read it (?) Mazda Miata - I mean really? I have never met a Boxster owner who was in any seriousness weighing options between the Miata and the Porsche. Also, what I find interesting is that the title states 1997-2004 models, and all of the "trouble spots" are for pre 2000 models for the most part. And if the article was last updated 12/2009, where are the more recent models? If you look at Edmund's, they have reviews up to 2008. 8+/10 editor ratings and 9+/10 Consumer - consistently. I would be your own judge. I have my complaints about my boxster ('01S), but the joys have far out weighed any of them!

looking to replace MAF on a '01S (58Kmi). Sunset quoted me for the orignal MAF and the "newer model" MAF. There was nearly $150 difference in price with the orignal (older MAF) being the more expensive one. The rep stated that if I purchase the newer model, I would need some type of reprogramming while the older MAF would be a straight replacement. I would have gotten more details from the Sunset rep, but he seemed a bit put off with my questions and wasn't forthcoming with any information. Can anyone provide details... 1. What is the difference between the old and new? 2. What programming/adjustments are necessary if using the newer MAF? 3. What costs are associated with going the newer route? Thanks in advance!!

Sorry to hear that! I haven't used this, but simply searched around and came across it.... http://www.autogeek.net/lereoil.html

My 2001S (55K) does the same thing. I don't have anything plugged in, etc. Just turn the vehicle off, sits for a week, dies. I am using a new Optima (red). - never hunted it down, I just make sure to use the maintainer.

I had the exact same symptoms, same speaker. In looking a the speaker itself, the line from the magnet to the paper cone had broken at the cone end just enough to lose contact at times. The speaker would sometimes connect/disconnect on turns. Did you carefully inspect that?

01S with 52K and my clutch STILL needs replacing - I have probably gone close to 10K since I noticed the problem. For me, I have what sounds like engine "knocking" and when depressing the clutch it subsides. This is apparently due to a the throwout bearing from what I have been told. Also, the clutch is very light. If you search for my postings, you should find my thread about the clutch issue and a sound clip of the "knocking". I priced the replacement through my local dealership in south Texas at $1800 and a local Indie shop quoted $1100. I will more than likely do it myself (with a ton of help from knowledgeable friends) at a cost of $600 and a weekend's time. I was surprised at the life (or lack there of) of the clutch as I don't think that I have driven it hard or put any undue stress on it. :-\

Thanks everyone for the thorough discussion thus far. Mike, I appreciate you taking your time to research this further. First day driving to work with lots of traffic and a few break-aways, and everything seems rock solid still. Just a little background, I have a 2001S with just over 52K. Over the past 3 months, I received two CELs (P1128) which seemed cleared on their own - I had no idle issues or anything indicating a problem aside from the codes. I figured I was due to clean the MAF and ultimately the Throttle Body (which I haven't done yet). I look forward to cracking it open this coming weekend and taking another look. I will throw some macro pictures up this time around.

I am barely getting 20! I have to wonder if you are driving it like a Porsche needs to be driven - LOL :P

Mike, Thanks for the input. I don't think there is a difference in the cleaners, but I am not sure why a 'haze' was left over on mine. In thinking about it, I was in direct sunlight when I sprayed and let the sensor dry, so that might have something to do with it. I drove it for a few hours (at times very aggressively) and I didn't notice any adverse affects, so everything appears fine at the moment. I will drive it all of next week and open it up again and take a look/re-clean it. I will let you know what I find. Thanks!

Well, I would like to get Mike's thoughts on this as well as anyone else that would like to weigh in. The cleaner is listed as a viable cleaner for the MAF both in his tutorial and elsewhere. Has anyone else used the CRC QD (quick dry) cleaner and if so, any feedback? Thanks!