Rodger

I troubleshot the problem today. The manual has you remove the LF wheel, then pull the clips that hold the rearward portion of the splashguard in place. Once the splashguard is pulled back, the tank is housed very snugly in the rear portion of the wheel arch. I disconnected the connector with the yellow/violet and brown wires, as per the manual this is the connector that carries the tank level signal. With it disconnected, the washer light comes on instantly and stays on. Per the manual, this is correct, as the tank unit should short the wires together when it reads "not empty". So I shorted the two wires together. The light did not come on instantly, but after a short delay (less than 1 minute) it did illuminate. This meant the fault was either with the wiring itself or the cluster's logic circuit. I then shot the wires individually for continuity to ground. Brown had almost zero Ohms, the yellow/violet had something around 90 Ohms (I could be off a bit with that number, but it was below 100), which I would consider consistent with some sort of logic circuit. That meant both wires were very likely good. A visual inspection of the harness under the wheel arch revealed no damage. So the fault is with the gauge cluster. I looked up the cluster removal in the manual. Simply engage the hazards, which allows the switch to pop out. You can then get a thin screwdriver into the slot exposed on the side and pop the switch cover off. Beneath the cover is a tox bolt. Remove it. The other side of the gauges has a small circular grill. Pop it off with the same thin screwdrvier and remove the torx bolt beneath it. Don't drop it inside the cluster. It's then simply a matter of pulling straight up on the cluster to disengage the three pop-clips that hold it to the dash. Once free, the wire harnesses have enough slack for you to use that same thin screwdriver to twist the annoying bulb a half-turn out of its socket. It's not exaclty fixed, but at least I don't have to stare at the yellow washer fluid warning anymore.

It's below the air/oil seperator (AOS), where the AOS connects to the engine. It's simply a small corrugated rubber tube. The AOS is the device in the lower center of this pic: You might be able to get your hand down there to feel the bellows tube if you're pretty slender. If yuor AOS doesn't look exactly like the one in the pic, you have the older style.

At first, I couldn't figure out how the one little bolt is going to hold the tip in place, since there's no pipe sticking out to clamp it to. Looking at this pic, it's now obvious. The bolt fits through the oval hole in the bracket and the front of the tip simply butts up against the muffler case.

I got my exhaust today. I didn't know it, but it came complete with the cut-out wiring, relays, hoses, etc. I don't plan on hooking any of it up, but it's nice to have in case I decide to actually get the switch. Also, I did order the tip pictured in the first post. Sunset had it for a tad under $500, Suncoast wanted about $100 more. I didn't even bother with my local dealer. I figured if I was going to drop a ton of cash simply to hear the exhaust more, I'd do it the way I wanted it. How exactly does it attach? The holes on the muffler have almost no metal sticking out. BTW, if anyone wants pics of the uninstalled muffler, let me know.

Couldn't this be caused by a bad front engine mount? I seem to recall Toolpants mentioning something about the older Boxsters clunking in the engine area when turning. I've also heard shift issues can arise from a bad mount. I am also having grinding issues shifting into second and fourth feels a little balky, too. I've only got 38K on my '00 S, so maybe I've got a bad mount as well.

So this tip comes with the PSE? I checked the service bulletin for it and it never shows a drawing of the tip.

The part number listed on the receipt from 2003 is: 996 248 701 00. Since then, it was in for a repair action in 2005 because of leakage.

Anyone have the part number for this? I'm about 3 days away from having an 03+ PSE in my hands and I'd like to finish off the install with this tip.

Looking back through the previous owner's service receipts, it seems the tank has been worked on twice and replaced once by a dealer due to leakage....just over two years ago. Too bad it doesn't qualify me for the warranty.

The resevoir was filled with summer mix washer fluid and partially froze over the winter, presumably causing damage to the sender. It's no longer frozen. Obviously this means the sending unit at the washer fluid resevoir has gone bad. Per the schematic, the signal goes straight from ground, through the sender, to the cluster (presumably to turn on the light directly, i.e. no logic circuit). The light may actually be driven by a logic circuit, as it doesn't come on instantly when the engine is started. Inspection of the resevoir filler neck shows me the resevoir is remotely-located....the manual shows it to be a whopping 7-liter tank behind the LF wheel. Is there access to the electrical connectors with the tank installed? Easier than that would be for me to simply disconnect the sender.....I don't need the stupid light anyways. In the schematic it shows the ground contact to be labeled as "GP3, 31, D162". Any idea where this is located? Other than that, she did just fine this winter.....

I'm going the painted route with my bumperettes. In fact, mine should be here any day now! Of course, I'll post before/after pics.

Looks to me the gasket is stuck to the valve in the pic. Appears to be a green paper/fibrous gasket. I've reused that type plenty of times as long as it's not damaged.

The rough idling may be due to a dirty throttle body. Search here for more info.

Once you've got a good quality in-car video, please post it. The youtube video is pretty raw. I'm always looking for a little more exhaust noise from my Boxster, but nothing harsh or like a fartcan.

I've got Durametric software for my '00 Boxsters S and while reviewing a previously-pulled vehicle log, I found a line stating the following: Radio Code/PCM Code 4096 Is this my radio code (to be used in the event of power failure)? Someone was kind enough to send me a radio code based on my radio serial # (which I still have not been able to test due to weather constraints). The number I was provided (with a caveat of approximately 80% accuracy) and the number the Durametric pulled do not match. I have found no documentation on the Durametric site to support my hypothesis. Hurry up summer........

Good work figuring out the current draw! Best of luck getting the window sorted. Merry Christmas.

I don't think testing curent flow at the fuses is effective, as all of the current won't be flowing through the meter. Some will still go through the negative battery cable to ground, leaving your fuse measurements inaccurate. First thing I'd try to do is disconnect the alarm siren power supply so you can work without it going off or drawing chage current. Taking the current measurement at the battery's negative terminal is paramount.

RED!!!

P1119 Oxygen Sensor Heating 2 Ahead of Catalytic Converter - Below Lower Limit If I am reading this right, it sounds like the O2 sensor closest to the head isn't heating up properly. Not sure which side is "side 2", though. Right bank is cylinders 1-3, so maybe it's the left bank (cyl. 4-6)? Ask the experts!

Doesn't look all that hard....simply remove the engine access panel, remove the drive belt, unbolt the old pump after draining the coolant, cut the metal seal, and install in the reverse order. Probably can be done in about an hour, not counting the filling and bleeding procedure.

I, just last month, did something very similar. I already owned a 2005 Toyota Prius for commuting and to please the left side of my brain. I bought my 2000 S simply to feed the right side of my brain. It makes me smile, too.

There is usually a small amount of play between the pad and caliper mount to account for expansion while heating. If you back up and hit the brakes, and it cliks....then drive forward and hit the brakes, and clicks again, then the pads are just slightly loose in the mounts. It's not a problem and is normal. However, if it really bothers you, I suppose you could smear anti-seize on the backings (not where it contacts the rotor) and it should quiet it down.

P1126 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 1 (Cylinders 4 - 6) - Rich Threshold Sounds like maybe the left bank O2 sensor is failing. Typically when they go bad they make the car run rich. <--could be wrong, wait for Loren's answer.

I got the software a couple days ago. I live in AK and it took them barely 24 hours for the stuff to arrive. Thumbs up for not messing around on the shipping! I just did a quick read of the various ECUs present, finding no DME codes. I did find a power failure code set when the battery was replaced, so I cleared that. I also found 26 instances of a failure of my interior infrared alarm sensor, and 8 of the oddments tray sensor. I couldn't reset those. I have no other indications of an alarm failure, so they may be old codes. If I had my WiFi card with me, I could have clicked the "magnifying glass" symbol next to each of the faults and been redirected to a website for troubleshooting. Very cool! I also found my car has been run for nearly 1450 hours, with the last trip to redline being when I test drove before buying. In total, it's spent 2 3 seconds at 7200 RPM and no time above that. Average speed was something like 26 MPH over the life of the car. This software will be very handy should I ever have a check engine or airbag light. That will have to wait until the spring, though, because it's getting too cold to drive the Boxster here.

At highway speeds I've got an audible air leak at the leading vertical edge of the drivers window. Pressing the run channel toward the glass reduces the noise. Additionally, strange condensation forms on the interior of the glass when it rains due to the vortices present. Can the window be adjusted forward, or am I going to have to spend hours replacing the run channel?