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adsach

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Everything posted by adsach

  1. There is lots of good info about the stick shift at this B&M link http://bmracing.com/media/products/pdf/67.pdf If I were you, I would remove the center console to get at the linkage and leave the leather boot hanging on the shifter in mid air.
  2. Scopacetic, Sorry for just out of the box saying you don't want to run Hoosiers. It all depends on your track history and your commitment to replacing tires. I personally am not a good enough to driver to run Hoosier's (only one day in a non-beginner run group) and wouldn't want to replace tires every 4-5 track days. Your needs and abilities may vary. Just because so many folks want to begin with more equipment than they can handle, I am of the opinion that anyone who CAN be talked out of full race tires SHOULD be talked out of full race tires. If you are an instructor level at DE's you just might want to run Hoosier "Rs".
  3. I only noticed because I am considering this for a spring upgrade(moving to Boston where drivers are..um..erratic). After your install, please make a post giving your impression of loudness and delay.
  4. What is the Brand and model on your 'slight delay' air horns?
  5. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=5747
  6. I was also guessing this was an M3 but can't explain the T-tops. The taping car WAS NOT trying to overtake the Boxster, he was trying to film the Boxster. The notes for this movie indicate the driver/car that was doing the filming was capable of a 3 second faster lap time. IMO the Boxster was more capable in the corner, but the driver was less capable. The video car seemed to have a better line on a few of the corners as well as obviously more horsepower. The interesting overtaking I noted was the duck tail 911 that got eaten by the Boxster. In my (limited) personal experience, it is the rare stock pre-993 Carrera that can stay ahead of my Boxster S in the twisties.
  7. Nice video! I had to do a search on 987 after clicking the link
  8. I'm fairly sure that the 987 is produced in the same facilities as the 986 and as such the majority are made in Finland. Most people I know in the UK regard having a Finnish made car as a good thing because German cars seem to have more problems....... as the majority of the expertise is based in Finland (because of the volume of Boxsters built there) German made cars may not be built to the same standards. My 987S was built in Finland Thanks for the correction Wads - I'll try not to pass this misinformation on to anyone else.
  9. If you are planning to use these for autocross, some folks go with all 4 tires the same size. Per the following website, http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCalculato...p?action=submit , The 245/35 gives you 4/10 inch wider tire and 3/10 lowered(radius) with 2.6% speedometer increase. They also fit your stock rims so this sounds like a good fit. and increases the accuracy of the speedometer. If you are thinking of a full racetrack, even a short one like Lime Rock, you probably don't want to run Hoosier's. I'm sure you know, it really helps to get a good aggressive alignment if you want to run fast around curves.
  10. No idea from the gas cap - but with those little cup wheels I'm going to guess a '97-98.
  11. That sucks about the price quote having built in parts overcharges. Having done the clutch I'm sure you realize replacing the front bumper cover is well within your mechanical skills. It's mostly an issue of paint color. The move to Boston is going fine. Packed the non-essential kitchen items and some of the basement today. They are predicting temps in the 50s tomorrow, so I will be able to pack the garage and tool shed. I'm looking forward to Boston as I am a lot more a city guy than living in Niskayuna(just off Balltown) would suggest. I did a mental inventory and I actually have more non-work friends in the Boston area than the Albany area. I had even more in AZ before we have to migrate to cold country.
  12. 030 is stiffer springs and sway bars and possible also shocks and suspension bushings. This is for the factory 'sport tuned' handling. Since you are ROW030 (Rest-Of-the-World/non-US) this also means the front springs lower the front end about 1/2 inch. Some sway Sway Bar numbers (from around 2001): Model ................. Diameter(F/R) ....... Thickness ....... Stiffness Standard 2.xL ..... 23.1 / 18.5mm ..... 3.4 / 2.5mm .... 1.000 / 1.000 Standard S ......... 23.6 / 18.5mm ..... 3.5 / 2.5mm .... 1.094 / 1.000 M030 S ............... 24.0 / 19.0mm ..... 3.8 / 2.7mm .... 1.211 / 1.145 *Stiffness rating shows that the M030 front bar is 21.1% stiffer on the 'S' model and the rear is 14.5% stiffer. (more understeer-less roll)
  13. You don't own a '97 (first year), or a first year S, or a last year 986, of an anniversary edition, so the ONLY benifit of stock is to avoid the appearance of having been in an accident or being labelled an 'aggressive' driver when you go to resell. In these days of CarFax, that chance has now passed. Given that the Boxster is NOT a very rare car or the most desirable Porsche the advantages of staying stock are miniscule. I sugest you act like an owner, not a renter, and make her look anyway you like. Since noone NEEDS a Boxster, it really is all about how you feel about your car. After what you went through it makes sense to 'do a little extra' to rekindle the driving magic. P.S. I second the vote on clear sidemarker (to go with your Xenon's) and would recommend the 5-spoke carrera style lightweights as an 18-inch wheel. Wheel enhancement has a large inventory of Porsche wheels and gives good service, but doesn't have the low, low prices you occaisionally find on the message boards.
  14. Vibration is unlikely to be alignment. Vibration is almosty certainly wheel balance, bent wheel or failing tire. Alignment is all about turn-in, tracking grooves, pulling to one side, and ultimately grip. Every 12-18 months is a personal thing, since I occaisionally track the car I want her to be well set up. Alignment every 3-4 years, is probably a good idea for a non track use car. "At least once" is definitely a good idea. If you have had the car over 6 months I would get her aligned. Some folks have successfully talked their dealers into alignment as a warrantee item. Consider ing the numbers my car had a year after delivery, I would say it would have been justifiable as a warrantee claim. I could feel the difference immediately.
  15. IMHO - I think you have a few more model years before you need worry As the Boxster is the lowest cost Porsche sold, it is also at the bottom of the list for features. Certain features are held back just to preserve a gap between the Boxster and Carrera/911. A simple example would be no glove box in the Boster until 2004, even though the same dash in the 996 had a glove box. I suggest it is likely to be several years before the new high tech transmission technology "trickles down" to the Boxster. In a likely scenario - First the transmission goes into the TT/GT3/GT2 cars, then into the Carrera, then into the Cayenne, Cayman and the (as yet to be named) 4 door Porsche Sedan, then the second generation of dual clutch transmission hits TT/GT3/GT2, THEN we see the first generation new transmission in the Boxster . I may be pessimistic here, as Ceramic brakes moved down the food chain very quickly. This is almost certainly due to the fact that Ceramic Brakes are a seperately billed high cost item. If the paddle shifted transmission is marketed like ceramic brakes , you may see it travel down the food chain to the Boxster in 2-4 years.
  16. Considering my local Porsche options, an airbag light reset + ODB2 reader would be worth about $175 to me. I am VERY pleased Loren will be doing an evaluation. :thumbup:
  17. You have my sympathy Ed. About 3 years ago I saw a Cobalt Blue boxster parked alone under a single lamp in a parking lot of the Scottsdale airpark. I just had to stop my Boxster and stare for a minute. You have a truly stunning color at night. Personally, I would go for the litronic headlights and very little else. I like the stock Boxster bumper cover.
  18. This is a very good description of the feeling when my shifter cables slipped off the positioning bracket at the transmission end. This happened to me after I bent the retaining clips during a clutch replacement. Simply replacing the cables back into the brackets fixed the problem. Unfortunately I had to remove the aluminum bars (3/4 inch x 4inch by 18inch) and the metal plate covering the bottom of the engine to reach in and reseat the cable.
  19. More than just an ODB2 reader, this website claims to have developed a tool similar to the PST2 http://www.durametric.com/porsche.php The following table displays what modules can be read and reset using our software. Module -------Read Codes Reset Codes DME (Engine) -------- Yes -------- Yes Airbag ---------------- Yes -------- Yes ABS ------------------- Yes -------- Yes Alarm System -------- Yes -------- No Air Conditioning ------ Yes -------- Yes Seat Memory --------- Yes -------- Yes Has anyone tried this tool? I haven't purchased one yet, but I am tempted.
  20. I never had condensation living in Arizona(dry). I had condensation ONCE living in Albany, NY(less dry). I tightened the cap after seeing condensation and it hasn't come back in 2 years(still in Albany, but moving to Boston next month) Considering what happened to ToolPants, I sure hope that was OK to put in print :lol:
  21. I have paid $125-$140 for a full 4 wheel alignment to aggressive camber settings (-0.7 front and -1.7 rear). The price was similar at the Porsche independant and the Porsche dealer. The independant shop claimed to have gotten better alignment numbers. The dealer dialed out all my camber and left me with measurable cross camber on their first try, they then realigned according to my original request charging only one fee for the two tries. The first alignment (after 1 year of ownership), was a HUGE improvement. Subsequent alignments felt like small improvements(except for the one time when it was a noticeable loss of my aggressive settings). For my tastes, it seems about right to have an alignment donce once every 12-18 months.
  22. On a 2001, I suspect it is inevitable that MOST of the rusty bolts and studs connecting your first catalytic to your factory headers will break. This will leave broken parts mostly in your old headers so while you will destroy bolts it should be easy enough to clean up the cats enough to connect to your new headers (using a new triangular flange gasket.) The studs to be careful about are those that connect your engine to your headers, they may all come off clean. I wouldn't reuse any of the fastening bolts or nuts that secure the exhaust pipes. You probably can leave the cats and muffler in place. If you do remove and reinstall the original cats and muffler, those that attach the muffler to the transaxle and body should be OK to reuse.
  23. So does this mean that you now have a spare alternator, intake, pumps, etc?
  24. It is unlikely to be the windscreen. Often these sounds come from panel gaps. Likely causes are side-view mirrors, hood height adjustment, twisted rubber gasket around windshield, door latch adjustment, loose front quarter panel or side light. Does a passenger hear the same sound? from the same place? Do the gaps between the various panels (doors, hood, lights) look fairly uniform? Are they flush?
  25. :lightbulb: #1) Are you the only one driving your car? Half the time I get my car back from a service appointment, the seat goes clunk as I pull away. The folks who move the car, move the seat but don't wiggle the seat to lock into one of the many locking positions on the sliders. Once it clunks into position the sound goes away until the next service call. :lightbulb: #2) I have also experienced a different clunk accelerating out of low speed corners. In that case, one of the semi-circular brackets holding my rear sway bar had come loose.
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