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Toby

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Everything posted by Toby

  1. Toby
    I am looking to remove the side airbags for my track car. (The front airbags will remain in place and functional.) Is there a way I can avoid the airbag lights from coming on, be it through PST2/PWSIS, or by tricking the airbag control unit? I have a 2001 Boxster S. Thanks!
  2. Toby
    Thanks for the write-ups! How long did it take you for each bearing? (esp. the part from rotor off to rotor back on.) Thanks again! Toby
  3. Toby
    Search function worked perfectly! My CEL was blinking and the engine shut itself off within 10 seconds. It started back up with no CEL. My dealer read codes for misfire from 2 cylinders, and they found frayed wires in my ignition coils. I am going to change them myself and save $$$. Thanks for setting this site up. Great resource. Cheers, Toby
  4. Toby
    If the engine won't even turn, I would still suspect ignition switch. Good luck! Toby
  5. Toby
    Cleaned the pistons and changed out all inner and outer seals last week. Time consuming, but not difficult. Thanks for your help.
  6. Toby
    I use MT-90 and have no problem.
  7. Toby
    Sounds like the tires to me. If the cupping is on the edges inside or out then the tire side walls are not holding up under harsh driving and may need more pressure or just slow down on corners. If you run your hands over the cupping and you can feel it in one direction but not in the opposite direction then this is call feathering. If it was suspension or wheel alignment then how are all the wheel affected the same But poor quality tires do the same My car does the same thing. It "recurred" (never really went away) through multiple sets of tires, two set of rims, multiple alignments (by different shops), and even a full racing spring/shock/sway/toe link change. Now I just ignore it.
  8. Toby
    My left rear caliper seems to be binding. I noticed (heard :eek: ) the inside pad is worn to the backing plate when the outside pad still has 1/3 left. This has happened for the last two sets of pads. At the Glen I also felt the car pulled hard to the right when I brake for the bus stop. (I imagine the stuck piston is preventing the ABS pump from releasing that caliper?) Are these newer Brembos are rebuildable like the older ones? (I searched the internet and can't find any articles) Would a rebuild help with the problem? (e.g. are the pistons just out of round?) If so how difficult and how time consuming? (Relative to the ~$300 I think for a brand new one, or less if rebuilt ones are available.) Thanks for your help! Toby
  9. Toby
    I use the Willwood hitch to tow my tire trailer. (~500lbs loaded.) It works great.
  10. Toby
    You can definitely drive RA-1's on the street. They are not sensitive to # of heat cycles at all, and even at half tread they are decent in the rain. Even after I got my track rims and trailer, I still use RA-1's on the street. I trailer the "slick" set for dry track use, and the full-tread ones for street driving and rainy track days. I have no experience about how durable Victoracers are, (track use or street driving) but I know people who drive them to AX's, so they must be fine with light street use. (Edit: why don't you ask the guy who sold you the wheels ;)) Watch out for their asymmetric tread design, though. With stock suspension, the outside edge of the fronts tend to wear very quickly. Symmetric tread (such as RA-1's) allows tires to be remounted inside-out, (aka "flipped on the rim) which make them much more economical.
  11. Toby
    Sounds like the Rear Main Seal (RMS) is leaking. It's quite common for Boxsters (and 996's). If you see the oil droplets between the engine and the transmission, that would be the likely cause. Repair costs ~USD$1000 here. (Don't know whether there is heavier markup in HK) Many (including me) would wait to repair if it's only a couple drops once in a while, until you are replacing the clutch. I wouldn't go in to buy a car knowing it leaks. Given the heavy clutch use in HK (I grew up there many years ago), I would probably ask the seller to pitch in for 50% of the cost for a new clutch and RMS. (But that's just me, and I am cheap :D) Cheers, Toby
  12. Toby
    Since you are getting a set of track wheel you will want R-Compounds. 235/40 and 255/40 Toyo RA-1's are the tires of choice for Boxster stock 17". My brother and I have used these for the last 80 or so DE days and many AXs. (Almost everyone else in our region use the same.) Just to preempt your next question. Yes 235s will fit 17"x7" rims. The extra rubber helps dial out understeer esp. at corner exit.
  13. Toby
    The remote receiver will turn itself off after a few days of inactivity (4 or 5?) so it won't drain the battery. Once you have unlocked your car with the keys, it will switch itself back on.
  14. Toby
    Yes tires are best bang for the buck upgrade, but don't sell your own improvement short. On an average ~1:30 lap, RA-1s or MPSCs driven at the limit is no more than 2-3 seconds faster than standard street tires. It's not unusual to improve by many seconds in the first few events. Congrats! Going forward it would be most useful to compare against the really fast drivers in similar car/tires (e.g. Boxsters, 964s, 993s and even 996s in instructor groups). It provides a good gauge of how much is still left in the car.
  15. Toby
    Not necessarily. It really depends on the gearing required for each track/AX.
  16. Toby
    In the DC area, you can certainly get a 2003 Boxster S with ~30k miles for <$35k. If you live in MN, you should definitely get a 2003+. You won't have to worry about opening the top when it's <60F. Don't worry about an older car + turbo. Porsche aftermarket parts are notoriously expensive. (and it will render the car unsalable) Good luck!
  17. Toby
    Thanks Paul for posting. Luis: It looks like the stock 17" Boxster S wheel is as good as other Porsche wheel. (And also quite light by absolute standard.) I have an extra set of these for my track days. If you are lucky you can get them for ~$500, or you can get them directly from a dismantler for a couple hundred more.
  18. Toby
    Don't know 1st hand, but by inference from the specboxster, well, spec Wheels Any factory cast aluminum rim intended for use on the Boxster matching the original offset is allowed. Wheel weight must be equal to or greater than stock. Front 17x7 inch - 18.5lbs minimum - 55mm offset Rear 17x 8.5 inch- 20 lbs minimum - 48-50mm offset
  19. Toby
    5thtonbench, You should check out the local PCA region (pcapotomac.org). I think we are the 2nd largest PCA region, and IMO run the best track day program by far. There are also many other non-track day activities. (Autocross, Rally, Concour, etc.). In additional, there is another local message board (www.dorkiphus.net). Most who frequent there are members of PCA Potomac. Hope to see you at a future event! Cheers, Toby
  20. Toby
    No they are not trying to fight road crown. Most shops will only get you back within spec, which is a lot less work, and hopefull they charge "less" (by Porsche standard). A detailed alignment costs around $250 at most (independent) shops in the DC area. Overpriced? Possibly... (They do provide a few things for free, like pre-track day tech inspections)
  21. Toby
    Thanks for the write-up. I installed a red top over the winter using similar method. (my old battery was venting to the wrong side...) Drilled two holes to the factory battery tray, and screw down the front of the battery. Also needed a shoehorn to get the new battery + tray back to the car.
  22. Toby
    All else equal, many people (rightfully) claim that 18" wheels are slightly more responsive, as the tires are less "squishy" due to their lower sidewalls/profile). 18" rims also tend to go with wider tires (225 vs. 205 in stock spec?), which contribute to slightly more grip. I use 17" for track days since the tires are significantly cheaper, and the rims take less abuse due to taller tire sidewall. I fit 235 wide Toyo RA-1's to my front rims, which negate the grip benefit of the 18". Lastly, you may want to do your first couple track events with street tires, since they offer more feedback and will accelerate your learning. That said, the more "tame" R-comp like Toyo RA-1's or Michelin Pilot Sport Cups still offer decent feedback. Cheers, Toby
  23. Toby
    Agreed with the turn (pun intended) for the better re: tire wear and better rotation in the rear. Although the front toe really hasn't changed. Previously the front tires were (pretty much) parallel to each other, except both tires are pointing to the right. (so CJ you might notice you were steering slightly left to track a straight line) There was minimal toe out (total toe). I have found the car to hold its alignment reasonably well. I had my car realigned after 25 track days (each with 2 drivers!) last year, and the old alignment setting was pretty much still there. Cheers, Toby
  24. Toby
    CJ, You new alignment spec looks good. It may only be placebo effect (or lack thereof?) that you feel your old alignment was more responsive. According to the printout you had too much rear toe in before for the car to turn in well. Your new alignment setting should be much better. (esp. given the almost zero toe.) If you would like a more responsive setting for a dual use car (daily driver + autocross/track), you should target more camber for your next alignment: - max negative camber in front (should be around -0.8 to -1.0 for stock suspension) - about the same camber in the rear (or just slightly more, say -1.7 to -2.0, if you can get to the front camber above) - same toe as what you have now: zero toe up front, slight toe in in the rear (~1/8 to 1/16 of an inch) The car will rotate better without being too nervous when you get on the power. But as I mentioned up top, you specs look fine. There is NO need for you to spend extra $$$ to realign the car now. Cheers, Toby
  25. Toby
    I understand that PST2 is needed to flush fluids in the ABS valves. Can the same be achieved (more or less) just by engaging the ABS, as the old fluid will get circulated into the normal circuit, and get "diluted by" the fresh fluid? Since I change my brake fluid every 3 months, my old fluid can't be that old. In addition, as I track my car often, (3 events already this year!) and the ABS is engaged regularly :P Should I still need the dealer the bleed the ABS system? I have a 2001 S. Thanks for your help! Toby
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