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RFM

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Everything posted by RFM

  1. RFM
    Looks like JFP is too fast for me.
  2. RFM
    Given the DME rich threshold stands for both cylinder banks, this means that the engine is running too lean and not richer can be put, an air leak is likely the cause. The squeal noise is also an indication of, among other air leaks, a comming AOS failure. A decent check with a smoke machine is a must for the fast detection of air leaks.
  3. RFM
    There is less than 5 Km/h no speed signal present for ABS, doorlock, belt chime PSM, etc. If you are below that speed for movements in the garage or drive way, there is no problem. Disabling can not be performed with PIWIS over here.
  4. RFM
    The noise seems to come more from the differential which is not abnormal in such a short fort and back movement of the wheels. It remains difficult from behind a PC screen to Judge, even with video, the lack of physical contact with the car plays a not insignificant role. I would go with an experienced technician for a second opinion if i were you.
  5. RFM
    I would first replace the oil filler tube, impossible to get such a thing air leak free after it was broken, then perform a test with a smoke machine for further air leaks.
  6. RFM
    The rear vents do not have much flow, ditto in summertime with AC on, unless if there is a double AC unit mounted (split system front/rear)
  7. RFM
    Your post #1: the cardan shafts have Always slack in the longitudinal direction, otherwise the wheels can not go up and down, so normal. I can not open the video in post #2, no permission according the forum.
  8. RFM
    Cylinders 1 and 3 are on bank 1 (driver side LHD), cylinder 5 is on bank 2 (pass. side LHD)
  9. RFM
    The part # 99733104301 named LENKER in german, i do not know exactly how you call it in englisch, is a well known noise maker under gently braking on uneven surfaces, cobblestone, etc. The problem is that there is nothing to see or feel, but with a little play on the uniball he will make noise when braking gently.
  10. RFM
    The battery voltage, unloaded and disconnected from the power circuit must be at least 12.4V, otherwise there is something wrong with load, the battery itself or power loss.
  11. RFM
    Follow the advice suggested by JFP, 12V without load is indeed too little.
  12. RFM
    If the CEL is not lit there could be still a fault code pending, this being said, i would leave the DME reprogram. There may be involuntary reboot happened and the DME is slipped back in limited factory modus.
  13. RFM
    Former ROW Europe have only one sensor, it is also not possible with a PIWIS some info to get that matter. I do not know exactly what you want to achieve but if you want to inspect the timing, will need to check the variocam system particulary the solenoid in first place. If the solenoide is properly working rest still the basic timing cranckshaft possition versus camshafts. Special tools are needed to do it right. There is further info available on this forum, use the search button on top of the page.
  14. RFM
    Audi is struggling with the same problem, so they have a new 4 cylinder turbo engine released in this country which use both injection systems in the same engine, DI at starting and on full load, IDI at partial load. They claim allows the carbon build up problem as solved. Wait and see.
  15. RFM
    It does no matter realy, the system on a Cayenne is not accurate. The up/down adjustment have too much influence to the left/right beam and vice versa, you will need both of them at the same time to reach a good set up.
  16. RFM
    According Porsche is a periodic refresh not required, only for major operations to the engine or replacing radiators and pipes = large coolant loss, it will be done. You are of course free if you wish, and maybe better, to replace the coolant after several years.
  17. RFM
    There is no separate adjustment for high and low beam, one adjustment screw is for up/down, the other for left/right (complete unit)
  18. RFM
    If you have little or no results with the advice already given by several members of the board, disconnect the alternator as well and check again, often it's in the diode bridge of the alternator, a loss of 0,1 Amps. is much with an empty fuse box.
  19. RFM
    Both drain holes (grommets and lines) left and right in the battery compartment are located above the steering rack/rear part of the fuel tank, there is access from below with the car on a lift. The front under shield should be partially removed.
  20. RFM
    The phone module is situated on the same spot as 996, under right side front seat, Motorola or Siemens are the most common brands.
  21. RFM
    Let the dealer check, with a PIWIS diagnostic tool, if the multifunctional steering wheel electronics are still present. Sometimes they lose their presence if tampered with steering boxes.
  22. RFM
    Looks like a damaged filler tube rather than a line, that would explain the price.
  23. RFM
    The boost hoses consist of an inner and outer surface made of two different sort of rubber, by influence of residu oil, the inside can partially detached from the outer side. This can show two different kind of issues, partial blockage of air by the loose inside and loss of load along the more porous kind of rubber of the outside part of the hose. The hoses must be removed for inspection.
  24. RFM
    Probably the diaphragm spring of the pressure plate broken, this does happens regulary especially when the clutch pedal pressure becomes too high (hardens)
  25. RFM
    I would start with an oil level check of the convertible roof system, if not OK, fill up and check the hydraulic pistons for leaks, if the level is correct, open and close the roof with the engine running and check if everything works as it should now, it would be possible that the problem you mentioned is caused by a too weak battery, with the engine not running.
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