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About 986volante

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  • Porsche Club
  • Present cars
    Boxster 2.5
    BMW 330i (E46)
  • Future cars
  • Former cars
    Audi S6 (V8)
    BMW X5
    BMW 740i
    Audi A4 2.6 quattro
  1. Here are the last two photos - had to attach them on a separate post due to size
  2. I'll be doing the pushrod end caps tomorrow and don't anticipate any problems with that......... I've tried adjusting the eccentric screw on the clamshell slider rail and it does appear to move correctly - I can definitely see it moving the clamshell backwards and forwards slightly. Unfortunately that's not the issue or the answer though - as I need a sideways adjustment. I've attached two photos of the clamshell in the closed position against the small "fillit" panels and you can see quite clearly that one side is way out (not the one that's correctly aligned which is a different blue - I
  3. Maurice: As you say, 95% there, but I'm already enjoying this later model hood just for the better and updated look alone! And I'm putting the roof down manually until I fix the pushrods. It makes my '96 model appear like a much later model, and for the first time I can actually see peoples faces in the rear view mirror after I've overtaken them :drive: . The pushrod end caps arrived today and so I'll be installing them this weekend - I'll have to fiddle slightly with the adjustment to make sure it's "right" as I don't think that they were ever aligned properly since I've owned the car, so
  4. Hi Maurice, Just to let you know that I finally sourced a 2003 hood with the rear glass screen :cheers: - just in time for summer (our spring never happened!). You were so right about the electrics and the special spade needed, very important to get the locking tab kind! Thanks for the heads up on that as they're not that easy to source I found! I'm very close to finishing the job now, but am currently operating the hood manually at the moment because one of the push-rod endcaps was stretched and not able to press home in the ball socket, so it was no longer effective. I've managed to order
  5. Thank you RFM so much for confirming that. I had already taken the undertray off from under the car to see if they could be accessed that way, but unfortunately I couldn't see a route at all with the view that i had - just looked loads of unmovable stuff in the way. I only had the car up on a trolley jack of course and so couldn't get right underneath, so obviously I need to get the car up on a proper ramp. So if I can use one of those then I'll give that a go, but if not, then it sounds like I'll have to go to my local Porsche specialist - it doesn't sound like such a labour intensive job n
  6. Okay, my mistake, when I had a look the wheel liners, they don't cover the access that I needed for the drain/ grommet area. That is actiuall part of the chassis and so you simply can't get access that way at all! So goodness knows how, or where, or even IF it's supposed to be possible to do that. Surely somebody out there knows the answer to this? I can't be the only one who's lost the grommets down gthe front drain holes? :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help:
  7. Solved how to remove the accelerator (gas) pedal - dead easy in the end - just one screw at the top undoes it from the floor and bulkhead and then you can manoevre the pedal through the carpet, you don't even need to disconnect the cable. Since there have been no suggestions or comments about removing the inner wheel arch, I guess nobody has had this lost grommet problem before? So once the weather improves I'll find a way to remove the linings and hope I can see a way to reinstate the grommets and drain tube without too much difficulty. I'll come back with my findings in due course.
  8. I am in the process of fixing leaks into my cabin and starting with the front drain holes - when I was trying to clean out the blocked drain holes on both sides, I clumsily pushed both of the grommets into the hole underneath into the bulkhead itself.. I've bought replacement grommets but need to find a way into the never-never land bulkhead areas on each side. Am I right in assuming that these areas are accessed by removing the inner wheel arch lining? Can anyone confirm that or have any other ways of doing this please? Also, I need to dry out the sodden carpets (ECU/ alarm is okay by the
  9. Just a quick update on fitting the new switch and a advisory word of caution to help you do it. It would have been very easy to do this in a matter of 20-30 minutes if I hadn't experienced (through my own fault) a real problem with the grub screws that hold the switch in. They are quite difficult to access, so a word of warning to anyone doing this - make sure you have or get a suitable screwdriver - you need either a jewellers screwdriver or a right angled ratchet screwdriver/ set, otherwise you will find it a pig to do (as I did, because I didn't have the right kind!) or totally impossible
  10. Yippee!!! (I'm not normally prone to such silly outbursts but this made me very happy!!!!) Followed the instructions that I found after searching this site :- http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/24-996-ignition-switch-replace-just-the-switch-with-pictures/ - top notch and even I found it easy to do and in a short time. I decided to test out whether the switch was definitely faulty before buying the replacement, so I proceeded as far as unplugging it to make sure I could actually do it, then plugged it back in, jump started the car and took it for a run to recharge the batte
  11. Thank you so much for opening my eyes to another possibility - it sounds really promising, and logical too. So now I'm hoping that I've prematurely jumped to the wrong conclusion about the ECU. It makes absolute sense because you'd have thought the dash lights would have gone out once the ECU was removed and they didn't! So this may also mean a much easier and less costly fix..... fingers crossed. I'll get the battery recharged and then disconnect the plug at the back of the ignition and if the dash lights go out then problem identified and I just need to replace the switch! I'll report bac
  12. Thanks for that although I only have the drinkable kind :) - but it turned out that i was right and it wasn't wet at all inside - no obvious signs of moisture, rust or shorting - like new in fact! Nonetheless I left it on top of the CH boiler all night where it was nice and warm and not too hot. I was very optimistic that just a small amount of moisture from condensation had caused the problem as it looks in such great condition and thought all would be well once reinstalled. Unfortunately having just returned from a long run to ensure that the battery was fully charged, the problem hasn't
  13. This is a common problem with cars the get water under the seats. Under the seat is the electronic control module for the central locking system, which shorts out when it gets wet. Fortunately, it can be removed, opened up and dried out, sometimes requiring a new fuse that is in the module itself. Once dry and reinstalled, they typically go back to working fine. Do a search on this topic, it has been covered extensively with pictures more than once. Thanks, I've just removed the ECU / Alarm module and it was a little wet on the underside but the fuse was okay, so I've put in on top of
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