flyingpenguin

Mike, I thought you did all your work yourself.. Anything in particular you need checking out? Joost

I did the RMS / IMS last week and with the tranny out gave it a thorough cleaning. While rolling it over I must have bent the L shaped bracket (#18 in the diagram). A gentle tug with a tire iron put it back into its place and all is good now. JP

I recently picked up a 1999 Boxster 2.5 with 110K on the odo. It had a few fault codes but with a new oil filler tube they all disappeared and the engine runs strong and the car is a hoot to drive (and that's coming from a guy used to quite a bit more HP's) :clapping: Today we pulled the tranny to take a look at clutch, RMS and IMS. RMS has a slight leak and will be replaced. Will pull IMS flange to see if the bearing is in good shape. Looking at Jake Raby's stuff, I tried to correctly identify this engine but am a bit at a loss here. The number is (yes I verified) M962065X03247. I found a list of Boxster engine numbers on an Ausi forum (see below), and believe it should match (being a 1999) up with the M96/22 65X denomination. So whence the difference of M96/20 65X vs. the M96/22 65X? Joost Boxster Engine No's MODEL MY ENGINE NUMBER Boxster 1997 M96/22 65V 00501> Boxster 1998 M96/22 65W 00501> Boxster 1999 M96/22 65X 00501> Boxster 2000 M96/22 65Y00000> Boxster ‘S’ 2000 M96/21 67Y00000> Boxster 2001 M96/22 65Y00000> Boxster ‘S’ 2001 M96/21 67Y00000> Boxster MY02 2001 M96/22 65Y00000> Boxster ‘S’ MY02 2001 M96/21 67Y00000> Boxster MY02 2002 M96/22 65Y00000> Boxster ‘S’ MY02 2002 M96/21 67Y00000> Boxster MY03 2002 M96/23 65300000> Boxster ‘S’ MY03 2002 M96/24 67300000> Boxster MY03 2003 M96/23 65300000> Boxster ‘S’ MY03 2003 M96/24 67300000> Boxster MY04 2004 M96/23 65300000> Boxster ‘S’ MY04 2004 M96/24 67300000> Boxster (987) 2005 M96/25 62500000> Boxster ‘S’ (987) 2005 M96/26 62500000> Boxster (987) 2006 M96/25625 Boxster ‘S’ (987) 2006 M96/25625 Boxster (987) 2007 M97/2065X Boxster ‘S’ (987) 2007 M97/21625

Try 9657 ........... WOW, that was quick. And yess.. it worked. Thanks! JP

Hi, New to me 1999 Boxster with CDR 220, PO did not have radio code. Type: 4462 Ser: Y5048887 Your help is much appreciated. Joost

Same problem here. P1130 only, which keeps coming back even after initially cleaning and subsequently replacing the MAF with a new OEM one. As a bad MAF should affect both sides (not just bank 2), one could argue that it the issue is caused by one of the remaining 3 potential causes (Fuel pressure too high, Fuel injector leaking, EVAP canister purge valve open). I guess it's time to start checking the fuel injectors and fuel delivery / pressure. Any tips on DIY'ing this? JP

Fab Speed's advise is sound. The mods resulted in reduced back pressure which affects torque, which is especially noticable at lower rpm's. I did not go the Fab Speed route (just cobbled some parts together at intake and exhaust), and experienced a similar problem. This was fixed with Scot Slauson's Softronic tuning solution. They do a good job customizing the ECU mappings to your needs. www.softronic.us (no affiliation). JP

Ouch... I am allergic to Toyota's, especially Camry's. Can you Photoshop that away? The body kit is really cool though. ;-) JP

I did one a few months ago and my buddy Marco brought a bunch of extensions to go in from the top to get to that nasty top bolt. Another recommendation; Keep track of the sequence when you take out the bell housing bolts so you don't have to guess which one goes where when you put everything back together. A tranny jack also makes the manhandling a little less excruciating. JP

Would this tool work to establish fuel pressure / delivery qty.? http://www.amazon.com/Fuel-Pressure-KAL2530-Kal-Equip/dp/B00063V2VC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1272052886&sr=1-4 JP

Sad but very interesting story. Moral of the story; make sure you really buy NEW tires and drive the hell out of them, leaving little chance there's any tread left after a couple of years. JP

Most full service tire shops will flip them on the rim for free if you bought your tires from that outfit in the first place. If you keep a regular eye on the inside tire wear, you will likely extend the life of any tire by a significant amount. Even if you pay $15-20 per tire for remounting / flipping you win. JP

+1 Depends on what year the engine was built though. I have a replacement 3.4 in my 2000 996 with 50K hard miles on it now, and still debating whether I should do the IMS bearing upgrade next time the tranny or engine is out. JP

I have the 3rd radiator installed on my 2000 C2, and even so in stop & go traffic in Houston , TX I see coolant temps around 100 C with ambient around 80 F (25 C). Increased airflow is the only solution and what works quite well is to engage the A/C and not pull a lot of cold air from it (inside the car) by running the fan at max two notches. There is also a stage 2 fan mod out there, but this works just as well because it throws your radiator fans into high gear. JP

Pulling to the left AND right sound like it's wandering, IMO a result of too little toe-in. Neutral toe or toe out usually cause this. Also be aware that the crown on many roads tends to push the car a little bit to the shoulder (in RHD countries that would be to the right), so best to check steering behavior on a level road without any crown to it. If you are coming to the conclusion that whoever did your alignment is not qualified, and you want to take a shot at it yourself, check out these posts: http://www.planet-9....adjustment.html and http://www.planet-9.com/reviews/service-items/p230-downhome-toe-measurement-and-adjustment.html JP

Sounds pretty f*&^$ng ingenious! I am getting a P1130, which indicates a possible vacuum leak on bank 2 (Cyl 4-6) only. If I recall correctly, on a 996, that is the passenger side, right? Would be handy to knwo for sure before I get out my propane torch and start blowing gas around in the engine bay. JP

FWIW: I am using M1 15W50 and get a tad over 4 bar at revs over 3,500 rpm when engine fully warm (90-95C on the coolant readout) and 1.5 bar at idle. I live in Houston where ambient temps rarely drop below 50F.. JP

My pinion bearing might be on its way out... JP

With 80K miles on my original box, I figure this would be a good project to prepare for. Has anyone done a rebuild in their home garage? I am aware of the need of some special tools (heavy press / pullers), but was thinking of doing as much of the work / preparations myself, before resorting to a specialist for the difficult stuff. Your thoughts are much appreciated. JP

While I don't disagree, I've got 10,000km on that set up with great handling, yet recently it started doing this odd behaviour. The tires could be crap and are now losing traction, however, they have good tread and roads were dry. Maybe an alignment issue? JP

I'll swap yours with mine. 2000 C2. Silver though... Joost

Maybe some pictures of the items that were tampered for this group to comment, could yield leverage towards PCNA. JP

After a long search in the PET I found the part: 955-559-547-00 Moulding Clip. I ordered a full set of 16 from Worldimpex for $0.54 a piece. http://www.worldimpex.com/parts/porsche-mo...ip_2511805.html Joost

On both sides, the ABS trim piece underneath the front doors is loose. I removed the one on the passenger side and it is (no: was) attached with 4 white nylon rivet type pieces that attach the the body to which the molding piece then clicks onto. A google search related to the actual trim piece (7L0 835 538 (also used on the Touareg / Q7?) did not result in anything useful so I am hoping anyone can chime in. I need 8 new nylon pieces to properly attach the trim / molding again. JP