seafeye

Here is a reman turbo motor.....cheap too. sort of. http://www.e-partssales.com/miva/merchant....gory_Code=evoms

Here is the little hack that i did today. 1 down 3 to go. Bead blasted the caliper, taped off the important parts, shot with 2 coats of black gloss powder, put on sticker, the applied one layer of clear gloss. I like the boxster instead of Porsche on it. Kinda one of a kind.

I took a lotus esprit s4 there once and the guy doing the dyno burnt out the clutch. You can't believe how much smoke came out of there. Nice of them to buy a new clutch and they didn't put up a fight at all. Now ICBC is another matter.

The stealership isn't going to cost you an arm and leg. Should be $40 to put it on the computer and they will tell you right away what the problem is. Or do what loren said and get a Durametric tester if you are going to keep the car for a while.

Do a search and you will find a diy around. I did mine black a couple of years ago with Duplicolor that i bought at Autozone. And the decals i got off ebay. Both have held up well. The paint is a bit soft, so you have to be careful that you don't scratch it when putting on the wheels. The best way to do it would be to powder coat the calipers. www.powderbuythepound.com would be your best bet for the right color. And they have a clear coat that can hadle the heat. There is a guy in panorama that does calipers for $150ea. (Powder Coat) Or go to china freight and buy your own gun for $70.

Try here: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=14539

WOW you are getting a free Porsche and wondering if you should take it? Save your college beer money and use it to do your own oil changes. Unless you have a 2 year old and newborn twins i am sure you can find some time to do the service. Besides, spending some time under your car will refresh your brain and give you a break from school. Don't forget to read the book "The art of motorcycle maint". 20 minutes under your car you can learn more that a week at school.

Try this.... http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=12317

You could put a volt meter on the battery and start pulling CB's (Sorry Fuses). When you notice that there isn't a draw with a particular circuit breaker you have found the source. Then find the fault within that circuit. Easy if you have a helper.

Anyone ever read the history of Lamborghini? He owned a Ferrari and when it was time for a clutch replacement he took it to Ferrari and was floored at the price. So he decided to take it to his "tractor factory" and have one of his techs replace it. Seems that a tractors clutch was the exact same design. This is where he learnt all about Perceived Value. Porsche has done a great job of selling a cheap product at a high price. People believe that Porsche is run by engineers but in reality the bean counters are running the show. Short term thinking will get their immediate money but will Eventually fail when the reputation becomes that of Skoda.

Interesting...where can you show me with objective data that the benefits are better? I sell the world's top performing spin on filters, and I have not found objective empirical information that tells me my set up from Porsche is any less effective than the world's best performing spin-on. As far as a magnetic oil plug, have you ever done oil sampling through Blackstone or Oil Analyzers to see the content of measurable metals in your oil? I have for all three of my Porsche's and I find absolutely no advantage to run a magnetic plug. Are you aware of what flow efficiency differentiates between a spin-on of your choice and the OEM filter? Are you aware of the micron differential or can LN provide that based on their suggested spin-on filter? Without answers to these questions, this is simply a subjective topic. Porsche designs the very best in performance with extended oil change intervals for a reason...they are the SME's in this case (Subject Matter Experts). My company sells the two top performing synthetics in the world and I distribute the best proven spin-on with 98.7% filtering efficiency at 15 microns. I would never use anything but the factory set up...and there too you can analyze flow and effectiveness between Mann, Mahle, Wix, etc. I really suggest you sample your oil. There is no reason to change my oil less than 15K in my Boxster and 10K in my Cayenne's. Actually, the oil I run can easily go much further than that while providing maximum performance. 5-6K is a waste of money and a environmentally irresponsible in my opinion. There's simply no reason. Good luck with the LN adapter...I'll stay with what Porsche engineering recommends. It would be nice to see objective data support the claims of the LN Adapter...and the dozen or so spin-on's available that all very significantly in performance. All the best, Bill :beer: Ps 2003 Boxster with 149,258 miles...if you would like more information on oil sampling and understanding the performance attributes of your oil, please PM me. After posting this, I went to the LN site... "We also recommend the Napa Gold 1042, which exceeds the quality of traditional OE Mahle spin-on filters typically found on aircooled Porshce engines An extra-short filter is also available, Napa Gold 1081, for use when paired with our accusump input adapter. Also compatible with our SPOFA (short for Spin-On Oil Filter Adatper), are the Mobil 1 M1107 or K&N Gold HP-1007 filter. Long story short, the Mobil 1 and K&N Gold filters are a well constructed filter, using synthetic resin impregnated filter media capable of filtering lower micron particles while not restricting oil flow, and have burst pressures much higher than any engine is capable of producing" (retrieved 08//02/09 from http://www.lnengineering.com/spinonfilteradapter.html). The number one suggested filter, NAPA Gold 1042, I could find no performance metrics. It's really a great price at $6.89. I don't think Napa is putting the R&D into the performance of their filters that I want protecting my Porsche's. I then did a search for the K&N Gold HP-1007 filter...no performance metrics available that I could find on the K&N site in regard to filter performance. Just like I would never use a K&N filter for obvious reasons, I sure wouldn't use an oil filter that the website listed without performance data. Maybe I'm wrong here...simply show me the data. It's that simple. There is not one filter offered for this adapter that I would use on my lawn mower (yes, it uses a spin-on), more or less my Porsche engines. All the best, Bill :beer: Well the filtration may be just as good what i worry about is the plastic threads getting ruined. Of course i do my own oil changes so there is only one person to blame for that but i do not like that with the Porsches. My wife has a BMW 330 with the same type of plastic oil cup. Cheap IMO.

Yep you should be OK. This pic should help. What you see through the hole is the tool i was using to remove the wheel bearing.

I'm sure the dealerships want to make sure they get the problem that is why they are telling you to do a full teardown. Can you get the durametric cable and run your own tests? I 2nd that you would have very low compression in the cylinder if you had a broken valve spring. You might even be able to change it without taking the motor out of the car. Can you test the coils? Move them side to side and see if the problem goes to the other end? Take a chalk pensil and write 1 thru 6 on the coils then start to move them to the opposite side. Note difference. How is your idle? Could your cold air intake affect the MAF? Did you try clean the throttle body and maf?

Just finished replacing my mount. Bought the car used and i have no idea when the last mount was done. I have been trying to chase down some vibration problems. First the motor mount must be removed to see if it needs to be replaced. I took 20 min from all different angles to see if it was ruined before i removed it and i couldn't see anything. Once removed from the car you need to remove the other half of the bracket. What i saw was cracks almost all the way round the rubber portion of the mount. I bought the mount from the sponsors of this site for $158 plus shipping. Once replaced my car did appear smoother and shifted easier. Still have the vibration at 75mph plus.... Wish i could tell you that there was an easy way to tell if its the front or back but i really don't think there is a way unless you remove the mounts. If you have over 50k on your car you might just want to go ahead and do them as preventative maint. Maybe do your oil change at the same time while you have the car up. No fancy tools just 15mm wrenchs and sockets. 10mm for the cabin panel and plastic nuts on the trays. Oh the mount is a bugger to get out.

Could you stick this in the spark plug hole? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=66550

One morning i went out to my VW Van '72 and it was very cold out. -25C. When i started the van the accelerator cable was frozen and stopped in the full open position. After putting some wd40 on the linkage and lock deicer in the key the van started up and i drove it to work with no problems. Then the motor went on to do another 40,000kms before i sold it. I agree the worst thing you can do is start your motor cold or after it's been sitting but it isn't like Porsche doesn't have a history of poor quality engines. Maybe Porsche is the new GM?

Just bought the motor mount from the sponsor of this site. $158 plus $12 shipping. http://sunsetimports.com/renntech.php DIY article coming soon... Thanks Jeff

Yes the more i think of it i have the right parts. Just don't understand why the new hose is larger than the old one. :huh: Drove the car for a while today with no leaks, had the bleed valve up and the coolent level did go down about an inch. I am going to drive the car 2000 miles this month on a trip so i hope that the clamps hold. Other than that one connection all the other parts fit great. The front scoop went into place after i got up to 95mph.

I took the stickers off the tubes prior to installation. These are the numbers that are on the reciept. 996-106-666-55 996-106-665-57

Just finished. Took me all day. Wanted to make sure that i cleaned the radiators really well. I cut the hole for the center radiator 4"x18". Seemed to work out. It looks good but I don't think the rubber ducting around the center radiator is right. It looks like it is drooping down in the top center? I think your right. I am going to remove the front bumper again anyway. Seems i replace the passenger hose on the top, not the bottom. Dumb me. The ducting can only fit one way right? I will go in and look at it again. Maybe i didn't get the tabs in all the way. Well, yes and no. Here it is on my car. When you fit the bumper make sure the flexible center duct fits into the bumper properly too. Got home and looked into the problem. I thought i put the hose on the top (Passenger Side) but didn't. I installed both of them correctly. The problem was with the fitting on the drivers side. For whatever reason the new hose is larger than the one that came off. So i had a leak from there. Don't have a clue why the sizes are different. Did i order the wrong part? Did i get a GT3 hose that would be larger?

Just finished. Took me all day. Wanted to make sure that i cleaned the radiators really well. I cut the hole for the center radiator 4"x18". Seemed to work out. It looks good but I don't think the rubber ducting around the center radiator is right. It looks like it is drooping down in the top center? I think your right. I am going to remove the front bumper again anyway. Seems i replace the passenger hose on the top, not the bottom. Dumb me. The ducting can only fit one way right? I will go in and look at it again. Maybe i didn't get the tabs in all the way.

Just finished. Took me all day. Wanted to make sure that i cleaned the radiators really well. I cut the hole for the center radiator 4"x18". Seemed to work out.

Great Article on Brake Upgrades http://www.turnfast.com/tech_brakes/brakes_balancing

Locked and unlocked the car. I didn't get the beep that i have been getting the past couple of days but i still have the same faults.

Thanks Loren...Just waiting to hear back from the dealership here to see if they have time to look at it for me. Last night my alarm went off out of the blue and now i get the famous beep when locking the doors. Neighbours aren't too impressed. Couldn't wait for the dealer so i opted to buy the durametric software. This is what it found: Not quite sure where to go from here. Even if i replace a broken part i will still need the Porsche Computer to reset the codes won't I? Thanks Loren -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 21 W lead (DME immobilizer) Status: not present Frequency counter: 1 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 49 K lead Status: not present Frequency counter: 1 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 23 W lead Status: not present Frequency counter: 15 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 33 Interior sensor faulty Status: not present Frequency counter: 14 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 60 Central locking limit position Lock not reached Status: not present Frequency counter: 13