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EleCTriCT
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Everything posted by EleCTriCT
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SOLVED - 996TT Missfire bank 1 only
EleCTriCT replied to EleCTriCT's topic in 996 TT, 996 TT S, 996 GT2
p0300 p0301 p0302 p0303 -
Hey Everyone, Another 996TT Question on another 996TT 2001 996TT Missfire only on cyl 1,2 & 3 Recent repairs... - Plugs & Coils - Repaired Pressure/vacuum Leak + Re-Checked with smoke machine afterwards - Replaced MAF Sensor - Compression Test Done, All Cyl Equal\ Things I have Noticed. Plugs are slighty dark/sooty on cyl's 1,2 & 3 - Bank 2 look normal Just looking for some suggestions since it takes forever and a day to do anything on these turbos. Cheers and Thanks. D.
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ok thanks
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Hey Everyone.... Im working a 996tt Franken-Porsche Its a pieced together theft recovery car. :( Current engine type in the DME is 9670 Im not sure what this means and How do I know what it should be? Thanks...
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Curious Myself, Various documents and manuals state that I should reset Camshaft Control... Any one with input?
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Hey there... Last time I ran into a Cayenne with a brake booster fault, it was a fault for the pressure sensor I believe.. If my memory serves me correct, it is part of the booster and not replaceable on its own.. To fix the fault I had to replace the entire booster that is stuffed into that cowel :( I have also done this 3 times on a 997... Can you scan it and pull the actual fault codes before you go any further?
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996 TT Oil Pressure Sender Replacement - Quick n Dirty Method Hey everyone, I though i would share my method of changing an oil pressure sender on the 996 Turbo. Here are my steps with some photos. - Raise & Support Vehicle - Support engine with suitable device (jack, stand, etc) - Remove drivers engine mount nut and lower down engine for access. (see photo.jpg) - Photo-2.jpg shows the left side hanging down nice and low to make the job possible. - Remove oil filter housing, I recommend removing the filter first (photo-3.jpg shows method i used t Author EleCTriCT Category TT/GT2 (996) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 05/25/2012 07:26 AM
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Hey everyone, I though i would share my method of changing an oil pressure sender on the 996 Turbo. Here are my steps with some photos. - Raise & Support Vehicle - Support engine with suitable device (jack, stand, etc) - Remove drivers engine mount nut and lower down engine for access. (see photo.jpg) - Photo-2.jpg shows the left side hanging down nice and low to make the job possible. - Remove oil filter housing, I recommend removing the filter first (photo-3.jpg shows method i used to get to the 3 8mm bolts - 13mm head) also remove the 2 6mm bolts - 10 mm head, from the front of the housing - Use double wrench method to unscrew the oil pressure sender because it is on a flimsy remote line. 19mm & 22mm (see photo-4.jpg) - The wire connectors should be different sizes making it quite difficult to mix them up. - I recommend a new oil filter housing gasket or use of a sealing compound. - Assemble.. Hope this helps...
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+1 definately check the connectors in the fender.... the next time the light (s) go out you can even try pressing the headlamp further in and see if it comes on and thats a dead giveaway... I see problems with the connector at the back of the headlamp VERY often
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excellent! thanks for posting the results... hopefully you will enjoy you vehicle without problems now. cheers
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looks great! thanks for sharing! curious about the cost as well? cheers
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TRW as far as i know is a standard OEM and aftermarket parts company. They are often used at my place of work.. Should be fine for a general replacement part. Cheers
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My engine won't spin over 5krpm
EleCTriCT replied to jon grindall's topic in 987-1 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
How about checking for a vacuum leak (bellows) and swapping out the MAF... Or at least pull some values for comparison... alot of DIY scan tools are capable of pulling MAF volume/voltage these days. my .02c I think ill make my signature something like I EAT BOSCH MAF"S LIKE CANDY.. sounded better in my head. -
Use a plastic trim tool and simply pry the tach right out of the dash.. you have to be careful not to damage the leather. The gauges have a ribbed rubber seal that holds them in place... thats all.. again be caurefull of the leather and / or slipping damaging the gauge..... Then your on your own because i cant remember which bulbs etc but should be self explanitory once you get it out.. Once done press back in with the seal on the gauge first.. some silicon spray may aide in the install.... also watch that it goes in level... Unless you want that tuner look where the redline is at the top :thumbup: cheers also.. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/41003-access-to-rear-of-gauge-cluster-to-replace-bulbs/page__fromsearch__1
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Slow window movement
EleCTriCT replied to L986's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
silicon spray in the window guides can work wonders... installation of the regulator can be a culprit as well if something is miss-aligned and the glass ends up being under tension... -
Putting Plastic Windows in a 944
EleCTriCT replied to cater_racer's topic in 924, 931, 944, 951, 968 Series
I know there are lexan windshield and hatch glass available that can be urathaned in.. Rear glass separated from frame (this part is challenging) then lexan installed to the frame ( urathaned / fasteners ) The guys here usually do it off the car..... We made rear quarter windows that just screw in flush for aero and easy removal... I recommend pre-drilling any holes through acrylic/lexan so it doesn't split when putting through a fastener.. You can paint a black frame or vinyl for looks... I recommend painting from the inside out... Note clubs may sanction rules for braces on plastic windows and possible retaining clips for front windshield Cheers
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umm i know that you guys are already into taking apart the motor... but I just had a situation with another brand of vehicle where a whole bunch of work was done to a vehicle to solve a missfire... and it came back with a missfire still... turned out additional to everything the same cylinder that originally had the miss, ironically got a BAD NEW spark plug causing a intermittent miss....... I know that someone mentioned how the plug looks on the questionable cylinder but i didnt see a response... I know your tech will hate you especially for all the forum advice :) but just make sure the BASIC basics are covered..... cheers...
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there is also this tsb.... http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?app=downloads&module=display§ion=download&do=confirm_download&id=416
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986 Door Panel Removal as per Porsche
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I think if you have managed to replace the door latch you should be able to get it open... But you will have to remove the inner door panel without opening the door... I dont electrics/alarm matter at this point because the inner door handle should be a mechanical overide... Also i've seen people work miracles with slim jims and coat hangers - also seen people damage cars doing that... so be carefull.. if the bowden cable from the door handle is hooked up the latch should still open from the inside... but if its not or incorrectly installed you should be able to jimmy the lever to the unlock position.... Always check your work, next time you can activate the latch with ie. a screw driver to test it before closing the door Best of luck!
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ya '07 Cayenne with Air Suspension.... It was put on a lift without disabling air suspension.... the tech apparantly tried to calibrate it afterwards and now when I try to run the piwis cal... it goes to low level first then tries to go to normal level but shoots the rear to the top... things that make you go hmmm...
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Does anyone have any typical measurement values for the calibration? I have one that someone tried calibrating, so when it tries to go to normal level during calibration it jumps to the top right away....
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The front sway bar end links often wear out.... If you lift up the car you can grab the end of the sway bar and force it up and down with your hand... If you can feel movement / clicking you end link is most likely worn out.. Cheers.
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Agreed.
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the ball joint around here is usually the culprit....
