Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to subscribe or donate. All subscriptions and donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual subscription or donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you subscribe RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's quality Porsche information at a low cost.

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by subscribing or donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

JFP in PA

Moderators
  • Posts

    8,869
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    216

Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. You need to be testing total amperage draw on the circuits; for that, I use what is called a DC "clamp" meter that senses the draw on an active circuit, it simply clamps around the wire under test and shows you how much current (amps) is being pulled:
  2. Welcome to RennTech Jake Raby's "Knowledge Gruppe" sells two great books listing every torque spec for 1998 to 2005, and 2005 on. Well worth the $.
  3. Welcome to RennTech Lots of possibles, I would start by testing your AOS and pressure testing your cooling system.
  4. You need to start checking circuits, relays, and the controller for excess amperage draw, shorts, etc.
  5. Welcome to RennTech What code(s) is the car throwing?
  6. No, not without further electrical diagnostics. It could still be the compressor clutch, but you need to do some testing to find out.
  7. B10 is the fuse for the AC clutch, amongst other circuits (Instrument Cluster Diagnosis Mirror Adjustment (to 1997)Headlight Vertical Aim Control (from 1999)ALWR (from 2001)Parking Assistant (from 2001) .
  8. Welcome to RennTech That frame is not supposed to reach or cover the side edge of the window; factory tops had a gap between the rear edge of the window at the level of the rubber wiper gasket on the top edge of the door skin and the black metal top frame of just about 1/4 of an inch that decreased as you went up the rear edge of the window.
  9. There are a couple of sources such as the Bentley manual for the car. We cannot reproduce them here because they are the intellectual property of PCNA.
  10. I’ve never seen an adaptor that actually worked, but Porsche released a replacement socket for the 986/996 cars which solved the problem perfectly, and that might be an alternative. Any good Porsche Parts Department should be able to help you
  11. The short may not be in the sensors, it may be furnther up the harness, which will require diagnosing the harness with digital multi meter looking for where the short may be located.
  12. We use the Durametric software, pro version, and it activates them without issues.
  13. You need access to a PIWIS system to code the car correctly.
  14. Welcome to RennTech P1502 in these cars indicates one of two things: a questionable fuel pump relay, or a dying DME, which is probably why the car is in the limp mode. A new DME and getting the car flat bedded to a dealer to reprogram it for the new DME is going to cost a ton of $. Realistically, unless they are giving the car away, I would look elsewhere.
  15. Column lock may only be available with the unit, which is nearly $3K new from a dealer. You may want to ID exactly what needs to be replaced with the lock and see if they sell it separately, otherwise it is bone yard time. And these columns are a whole lot of fun to pull out and replace. You may have upset the airbag while working on the car; get everything back together and then read and clear the airbag code to see if it comes back.
  16. Welcome to RennTech The oil fill tubes are a bit of a bear to get at and replace. Failure isn't common, getting broken while someone working on the car that isn't familiar with them is.
  17. Welcome to RennTech Search is your friend on this problem as it is a common one, usually traced to the electrical contact isolation in the steering wheel assembly falling apart after years of use. Over the years, people have come up with different ways to repair it.
  18. Welcome to RennTech This should help: Replacing Boxster top ball joints
  19. Please do not "bump" your posts, it is against forum rules; if someone has the answer to your question, they will respond.
  20. I'm afraid that code doesn't mean anything to me as fault codes typically have four digits. Try scanning the car with a Porsche specific tool.
  21. What code are you getting? And what year and model is the car?
  22. That would be fine, but just remember to only turn the engine in the clockwise direction (from looking at the front crank pulley) as these are interference engines and do not like rotating backwards.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.