JFP in PA

Most likely what the description says, circuit open or shorted on the wheel speed sensor. Check for resistance or continuity between connector pins 4 & 5, if you don't see any, you probably have lost the sensor. Also check the wiring connectors to be sure they are tight.

The 981 S front rotors are 13.0 X 1.1 inch, rears are 11.77 X 0.80 inch, the non S fronts are 12.4 X 0.80 and the rears are the same 11.77 X 0.80 inch. As Loren noted, the carriers are the same.

Some people retain the cats, some sell them. In many states, the vehicle will not pass inspection without the cats physically being present (yes, they actually look). Selling a cat-less vehicle is problematic as well, as some states place the onus on passing inspection on the seller of the car rather than the buyer; if it won't pass inspection, the seller has to either take the car back or fix it so it passes. I guess it all depends upon where you head is at. We only have a couple of customers running the pipes, they kept the cats to put back on when they sell the car. At the end of the day, removing the cats really does not free up much power in anything short of a ten tenths prepared car (reflashed DME, full headers, etc.) regardless of what the cat bypass pipe sellers say, so taking them off a vehicle with no other mods really won't gain you much in performance, but could end up creating a lot of grief, including persistent MIL codes, inspection problems, sale problems, etc.... But it is your car, so you have to decide what you really want.

Check the market for used but serviceable cats for your car, it is probably close to the same number............... New cats are selling for north of $1600 each, a couple of used but serviceable cats for a 996 recently sold for about $750 from a salvage yard. You do the math.....................

Just because something can be done, does not necessarily mean it should be done, or even makes economic sense. With scrap yards paying money for even dead cats, why would you want to destroy a perfectly good one?

With even used cats selling for hundreds, the aftermarket pipes are the more economic way to go............

Before you start beating Hell out of your cats, I'd suggest finding out what a replacement would cost; might just change your thought train a bit................

OEM filter housing holds about 1/2 qt. of oil.

The yaw control function, its most common activity, does not typically involve any loss of grip or a slide to trigger an intervention and get the vehicle back on track, it is the difference between the car's actual changing yaw angle and the one that should be produced by the current steering inputs, hence its "stability management" title rather than traction control.

Be very careful about where you get an engine, the 2.5L engine's were prone to cylinder wall problems, as you have already discovered. You really don't want to ship one of these long distances, only to find out you bought a boat anchor when it arrives.......

Obviously depends upon the ability of the mechanic, couple hours at most.

I was referring to the bolts that hold the flex plate to the crankshaft. The easiest way to accomplish this swap is to put the two engines side by side and move all the stuff from the original engine that is not on the replacement. When the replacement is reconfigured to the original's layout, the wiring harness should plug right in. Word of advice: Do not throw out anything until the new engine is in the car and running, some of the little stuff can be the hardest to find or replace.

You will need to use the flex plate from the old engine and new bolts (they are single use items). You will also need any other Tip associated items (wiring harness, brackets, etc.) be moved to the new engine. The 2.7 engines were all egas and used a different DME and sensor layout, fuel system has changes as well, so there would be considerably more stuff to develop "work around's" to make it work.

Actually, rather than "traction control", PSM functions as "yaw control" to limit the car's ability to get completely out of shape and end up in the top of a tree somewhere. The system uses a variety of sensors (individual wheel speed, steering angle, actual angular momentum of the vehicle, etc.) to try and help keep the car going in the direction the driver intends it to. From the OEM literature: PSM, which comes as standard, is an automatic control system that stabilises the vehicle at the limits of dynamic driving performance. Sensors continuously monitor driving direction, speed, yaw velocity and lateral acceleration. Using this information, PSM computes the actual direction of motion. If this direction deviates from the desired course, PSM initiates braking interventions targeted at individual wheels in order to stabilise the vehicle. Under acceleration on wet or low-grip road surfaces, PSM improves traction using the ABD (automatic brake differential) and ASR (anti-slip regulation) functions, giving an agile response. When ‘Sport’ mode is selected on the optional Sport Chrono Packages, the PSM intervention threshold is raised to enable greater driver involvement – particularly at speeds of up to approximately 70 km/h (45 mph). The integrated ABS can further reduce the braking distance. For an even sportier drive, PSM can be deactivated. However, it is automatically reactivated for your safety if either of the front wheels (in ‘Sport’ mode, both of the front wheels) requires ABS assistance. ABD remains permanently active. PSM has been enhanced and now includes two additional functions: precharging of the brake system, and brake assist. If you suddenly release the accelerator pedal, PSM automatically readies the braking system. With the braking system having been precharged, the brake pads are already in light contact with the brake discs. Maximum braking power is therefore achieved much sooner. When sudden braking is detected, the brake assist function applies maximum brake pressure to all four wheels. So it is a lot more than just traction control.

The 2.5 manual engine is basically the same as your Tip engine. You will need to strip some stuff off your old engine to accommodate the Tip but it should not be a big deal.

Your question is a little open ended; if your compressor can reach and maintain 90 PSIG, you should be fine. Smaller compressors often take more time for the system to reach 25 inches of vacuum or better, but if they can put out the required pressure, you should be fine.

I'd have to agree with you on the front motor mount, it really is not in the way, but some people find it easier that way. The tank is a bit more annoying because of the confined space and the number of hoses connected to it with those spring clamps. Just take you time, take an occasional break from the task, and it will go smoothly. The tank replacement is actually the very first DIY repair for many owners, so there are lots of write ups on the subject.

Start by making sure you checked all the fuses and relays, checking fuses #17 (heater fans) and 39 (AC condenser fan) in the central electrical panel; then check fuse #42 (AC compressor relay) in the engine compartment relay panel. You should also check relay #R14 (AC condenser fan) in the central relay panel; as well as relay #2 in the engine compartment relay panel.

You will find the "driving experience" between the two cars to be totally different things. I would suggest getting some seat time in an early 996 before making the change.

No I did not. Just waiting on the relay to be shipped. Why do you ask? Some people have replace the indicator bulbs with LED versions that caused all sorts of problems because they have the wrong internal resistance.

The tank change out is not hard, but it is time consuming and for some annoying. It is going to take some time to do the first time (nearly everyone that does one says they could cut the time substantially the next time) and you need to acquire cable drive hose clamp pliers (figure on $20-30)to get it done:

Get the car scanned and post the codes; without data, anything would be a guess.............

Passenger's side fuel rail (item #7): Pressures: Engine off 3.8 +/- 0.2 bar Engine idling 3.3 +/- 0.2 bar

I recently had the opportunity to spend some time with the new Bentley Publishers Porsche 911 (Type 993) Carrera Service Manual for last of the air-cooled 1995-1998 cars. As a shop owner, I know how expensive and difficult it can be to assemble and use meaningful technical resources to work on or properly maintain these cars. The original Porsche manuals (now out of print) literally cost more than a thousand dollars when you could obtain legitimate copies; and most of the bootleg versions I have looked at on the internet are incomplete, often missing entire sections as well as any of the supplements and corrections that Porsche once issued to the set owners, not to mention the intellectual property issues associated with these questionable versions. The 6 ½ lb. Bentley 993 manual is a well-organized and easily searchable hard bound volume that is extensively illustrated with many photos, most in color, as well as diagrams where appropriate. It contains sections covering just about any service item, including multiple sections covering engine disassembly and re assembly, something that is sorely missing from even the later factory manuals for the 986/996 water cooled cars. It carries a full set of factory wiring diagrams, as well as over 60 pages on individual OBD II fault codes and their explanations. Is it perfect? No. As with all Porsche related service manuals, it assumes that the user has a modicum of both technical and mechanical skills, plus access to a good tool set that includes some of Porsche specialty tooling. The OBD section, while very comprehensive, lacks the decision tree layout of the factory manuals that provide even a novice with a do this first, then this, then that approach to diagnostics. But the OBD section is logically organized enough to help find the cause for the codes. There is one minor typo correction noted at review time (concerning how to check the oil level), but as with all Bentley manuals, each copy has an individual code number inside the back cover that allows the owner to register it online so that they will receive future updates as these are found and identified, and this error already has been corrected. This is something you would not be getting with bootlegged information. At less than $150, it is an excellent addition to the technical library of any shop or car owner that will be working on these models.

Thank you for the quick response! I saw the 2.3 to 2.7 kOhm resistance criteria in a manual for 986 DME 7.8. Is the resistance criteria the same for DME 5.2.2? I imagine it is, but I just wanted to confirm. According to the Porsche OBD II diagnostic's manual, they are the same.