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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Some shops make their money with "add on's" like this. If you are using a quality full synthetic, you simply don't need additives.
  2. Check the switches on the brake peddle, one is for cruise, the other is for the lights.
  3. Welcome to RennTech These engines are actually happier running slightly below the full level. Add about 1/3 of a quart of oil, let the car sit for a bit and check it again. We generally fill customer cars to around 1/2 quart below full cold.
  4. Fogging oil is commonly used on long period stored engines to prevent rust and keeps the rings sticking to the pistons over time; cheap insurance. It will also free up stuck rings to prevent any damage to the cylinder liners when recommissioning engines that have been in storage.
  5. Welcome to RennTech Drain and replace all fluids (including gas), pull the plugs and spray the cylinder's with engine fogging oil, let the car sit overnight, then turn the engine over by had to free everything up. Once loose, put in fresh plugs and light it off, expecting it to smoke a bit at first.
  6. Get it scanned with a Porsche specific scan tool, report the codes and we may be able to help you.
  7. There is no adjustment for this in the top's hook, it is all in the microswitch.
  8. That has to have been one bear of an engine swap as the car and the engine have different fuel systems, different DME versions, the 99 is a VarioCam while the 2007 is a VarioCam Plus system, the 99 had no CAN bus communications while the 2007 is all CAN bus, etc. There are so many possible places for things to be wrong, it would be impossible to even hazard a guess. Diagnosing problems involving a swap like this is at a minimum a daunting proposition...……………..
  9. Welcome to RennTech Where to begin...………….you took the intake system apart while doing some other fixes, and now the car is down on boost. First step: Go back to what you touched last. Something is not tight and is leaking off boost. Second step: NEVER disconnect the battery to clear codes without reading and noting them first. The car was trying to tell you something, and you erased it. Not a good move, as you lost all that information. Look over everything you disconnected, make sure all the seal areas are clean and properly seated, you missed something. While there are systems that can read and clear many codes on a Porsche, only a Porsche specific system like the Durametric can read everything and tell you what is going on. It is a worthwhile investment. Good luck.
  10. Knowing Porsche, it is probably teak. You need the fixing pins, but can make do with sections of 5/16 metal rod. 96870 and 96880 are triple square bits, but 96890 is a set of tools to replace the converter seal, and is difficult to replicate unless you have a machine shop:
  11. Welcome to RennTech Like many shops, we have not had much luck with aftermarket axles for these cars, and yes, the left and right axles are different, which is something aftermarket suppliers often seem to not understand. We recommend only rebuilding the factory units, or in cases of more dire condition, only replacing them with factory units. The grief factor with aftermarket just isn't worth the price differential.
  12. Both are for getting into restricted spaces, and can be great time and knuckle savers, but there are other ways to skin this cat....
  13. The bracket is probably just rusted in place, give it a wack and it should come loose.
  14. Welcome to RennTech Probably a couple of unrelated things. You have an alarm fault (double beep), a scan with a Porsche specific scan tool will list the last ten faults. You probably also have an ignition switch problem, a well know issue with these cars. Parts are cheap and a search will turn up several DIY's on how to change it out.
  15. What you should be doing is running a voltage drop across the primary cables; anything more than 0.5 V means the cables need to be replaced.
  16. It is not a matter of your infrastructure, it is a matter of people being lazy here. A lot of US companies will not even ship into Canada, simply to avoid the customs issues and costs.
  17. Not really, other than confirming your fuel trims are out, which the codes have already done. In this case a smoke test would be more useful. Finding air leaks that throw the mixture off can be a major headache. These are handled strictly on a “time and materials” basis in the shop; it could take 15 min., or it could take four hours.
  18. I think they just did not want to get involved shipping parts to Bulgaria.................
  19. Start looking for air leaks on your intake and vacuum lines.
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