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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. That is pretty bad. You are going to need a new one, and as the dealer is needed to program it to accept your keys, you may as well just give them the entire job.
  2. Something is wrong here, the 174 fault has two possible causes, DTC P1531 or P1530, and the OBD II manual for your car does.not list a P1341 code, meaning that the DME cannot throw that code. Please reconfirm the DTC code.
  3. AGAIN, regardless of the date of manufacture, exactly which IMS design is in any given 2000 or 2001 M96 car can ONLY be determined by pulling it apart and looking. I have two M96 engined cars in my personal fleet, the 2000 is a very early production date, the 2001 a very late production date.. Both have been converted to IMS Solutions, but the 2000 is a single row engine, the 2001 is a dual row; exactly backwards from what the production dates would suggest. It is probable that many, but not all 2000 M96’s would be a dual row, but over the years of retrofits, I have seen enough that were not to realize that while the percentages favor the 2000 being a dual row, it is NOT a guaranteed outcome............
  4. Oil leaks and misfires are often the result of the oil getting to the coil packs and/or plugs. You need to get the car up in the air, find the leak and fix it. I would then pull at least cylinders 1 and 6 coil packs and plugs and have a good look at them. If the packs are cracked, you may be in the market for some new coils. Good luck.
  5. There is some leeway in that analysis; if the engine has the AT in the number, record the number as it will tell you what year it was assembled. If it was earlier than 2004, it would have the IMS bearing appropriate to the year, if the year was 2004 or later , it definitely has the non serviceable bearing.
  6. Your assumption that the 2000 is a single row is flawed, while this is some possibility it is a single row, experience says more 2000 were dual rows than singles. Again, the only way to know for sure is to look. You can also look for the engine number stamped into the pan rail, it is contains the letters “AT”, is is a replacement engine, and the rest of the numbers will tell you what year the engine was assembled, as well as what size engine it is. Probably the best advice I can give you is to find a car in the condition and with the options you want, and then have a competent shop do a pre purchase inspection (PPI). While this will cost some $, it should also tell you about if the engine assembly date coincides with the model year of the car, or if it has been replaced. It will also outline factors like how many times the engine has been run to the red line, and a myriad of other factors about how the car has been maintained and run. That data is a MAJOR factor in sale price negotiations, and can also prevent you from buying someone else’s problems. We once had an absolutely beautiful 996 in the shop that looked like it had lived in a plastic bag for the last several years; only problem with it was that it had a 2.7L Boxster engine in it instead of what should have been there, which explained the prospective buyer’s comment that is felt sluggish on acceleration when he test drove it. Used Porsche’s are definitely a “buyer beware “ proposition..............
  7. Welcome to RennTech Most 2000 and many 2001 M96 engines were dual row engines, which created the problem that the only way to know which style was used was to pull the transmission, clutch, and flywheel and haves a peek. There is no other proven method to tell you which version was used during the 2000-2001 transition period. If the engine was replaced with a factory unit, it would carry the letters “AT” on the engine number on the sump rail, and the number will reveal its year of assembly; all reman engines produced after 2004 carry the oversized non serviceable third design IMS.
  8. You do as he said above, pull it, dry it out (we rinse them with isopropyl alcohol and then bow them dry with dry compressed air). Be sure to check the small fuse on the side of the unit as they often blow when it gets wet, then reinstall it. It is like a light bulb, it either works or it doesn't. You would need a PIWIS system to test it, and a dealer will happily sell you a new one, with programming, for around $700+. Normally, once dried out, they come back to life just fine.
  9. Welcome to RennTech Absolutely none of that information will identify which style bearing is in the engine; the only proven way to tell is to pull the trans, clutch, and flywheel, and then look at the size of the center bolt. If it is 22MM, you have the non serviceable style bearing. Good luck.
  10. 20 +/- 2 Nm, or 15 +/- 1.5 ft. lbs. Loctite is optional, but use med strength if you do.
  11. You then need to determine if these rub spots happen during turning or under suspension droop. You also need to check if the wheel offset is factory, and if there are spacers in use.
  12. Welcome to RennTech I would put the car up in the air and look for signs of rub contact before doing anything.
  13. Not one that can be reproduced on this website, factory service data are the intellectual property of PCNA. There is an o-ring on the solenoid, and another on a shaft inside the actuator.
  14. Yes, which is the solenoid unit. The $1200 price is probably for the entire actuator assembly.
  15. Should be less than that, perhaps around $400 USD. I have no idea what they sell for in Canada.
  16. Sooner or later it is going to fail completely, which will impact how the engine runs as well as throwing more codes. As Porsche does not sell the seal separately, you only option is to replace the unit. As for the part number, it would be best to have a dealer run your VIN number to make sure you get the correct number.
  17. Most likely triple square (AKA XZN) bolts. I used Snap-on, but a lot of other tool companies make them as well. Amazon also sells them.
  18. Over the years, we have replaced more transmission fluid than I care to remember, all for the same reason: they all were the wrong fluid and caused problems (poor shifting, noise, etc.) Porsche has always used unique full synthetic transmission lubricants which were made to their specifications, and for which there were no aftermarket match because the total number of Porsche cars is too small a market, which is why they tend to be pricey and hard to find outside the dealer network. While some people have had limited success with other products, we only used the Porsche products, and we never had any problems with them.
  19. P1531 is the DTC for the actuator triggering, but no active position. Could be either a wiring issue (open circuit) or a bad actuator. Diagnostics are to check the power supply (B+) and triggering wire for continuity; if both are OK, replace the actuator. As noted above, it probably is the the actuator.
  20. Welcome to RennTech You did not state the year and model, so I am going off what you entered in your account. Porsche code 174 can be one of two DTC codes: P1530 or 1531, which are for different problems. What is your Durametric seeing as the DTC code?
  21. Welcome to RennTech If your DME (what you refer to as an ECU) actually got wet, most of the car would have been under water, so I would not be surprised things aren't working. I assume you are referring to the box under the seat, which is the alarm/immobilizer unit. If that is the case, remove the unit and rinse it out with isopropyl alcohol , which you can get at any grocery or pharmacy. Remove the small fuse on the unit and make sure it did not blow when it got wet. Use a hair dryer to dry out the unit, reassemble and you should be good to go.
  22. And be happy yours in an early car with a cheap switch on the B pillar, the later cars had one that is built in to a $550 driver's side roof transmission that would have to be replaced. Another Porsche "improvement". 😉
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