Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to subscribe or donate. All subscriptions and donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual subscription or donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you subscribe RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's quality Porsche information at a low cost.

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by subscribing or donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

JFP in PA

Moderators
  • Posts

    8,883
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    217

Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Then I would say put the car back to the way it was, clear all the codes and see what happens. This is strange.........
  2. Sorry for the delay getting back to you, took a couple days off over the holiday. From the sound of it, you missed somewhere when you tried replacing the cam sensor wiring with jumpers. Are you absolutely sure you traced the correct harness wires for cam sensor #1? Did you check to see if the wires from the sensor pass thru something else (another device) on the way to the DME? Using the axiom to always go back to where you were before the problem, can you go back to the original wires or were they cut away?
  3. The EU mandates using only non metallic anti seize compounds for environmental reasons, so the compounds available there tend to act as electrical insulators, which can cause plugs to misfire. Here, anti seize compounds are metallic and therefore both electrically and thermally conductive and work fine on spark plugs. We put a small dab of a high quality anti seize compound on all spark plugs, new or old, and have never had any issues.
  4. Get the battery load tested, if you don't have the tools, take it to an auto parts store as most will test it for free. Voltage doesn't start the car, amperage does.........
  5. Probably. Three things to check: Check each wire for continuity from the sensor to the DME, check each wire for resistance, and check each wire for voltage drop. As harnesses age, the wire can develop internal resistance over the length, or even breaks which continuity would catch. Resistance may not change much, but any increase in resistance can lead to voltage drop, and as most sensor are running at low or even factional voltages, the voltage at one end is different than that at the other (voltage drop), which drives these systems nuts.
  6. You will need access to the wiring diagrams for your car. Either a Bentley manual or the factory wiring diagrams.
  7. Should be possible, just watch the wire size and make it as close to the harness as you can.
  8. Welcome to RennTech The factory radio had a ground wire that had to be attached to the car's chassis under the dash as a simple anti theft device. If that ground is not there, the immobilizer will prevent the car from starting.
  9. Both the low and high pressure switches must be in the closed position in order for there to be a complete electrical circuit to engage the compressor clutch. I would be looking for continuity across the terminals on the switch, which would indicate that closed position.
  10. Should be under the windshield cowling where the battery sits.
  11. Your problem may not be the sensor itself; P0335 means the DME is not receiving a viable signal from the sensor, which can also be caused by a wiring harness problem between the sensor and the DME.
  12. Welcome to RennTech To my knowledge, there is no "kit", you have to order all the components separately. A good parts desk, like board sponsor Sunset Porsche in Oregon, could quickly put together everything you are looking for. That said, I also would not be using silicone for coolant lines.
  13. I do not, we normally stock a variety of wire sizes and colors, heat shrink tubing, connectors, zip ties, and the like that we source from a local electrical vendor, but you can find similar supplies from multiple sources like WireCare.com | Your Local Cable Management Superstore! WWW.WIRECARE.COM WireCare is your online wire & cable management superstore. We have what you need for connecting, harnessing, & beautifying all of your electrical projects. We carry the highest quality... .
  14. It is always best to solder the wires back together and then heat shrink them for weather proofing. A lot of sensors, like the MAF, use factional voltage signals that don't do well when crimp connectors are used, so solder is the way to go. 👍
  15. Here is the documentation from the Porsche DME manual P0327 210 Knock sensor 1 - below limit Diagnosis conditions • Engine speed more than 3600 rpm • Engine load greater than 45 % Possible fault cause ♦ Break in wiring or short to ground ♦ Contact corrosion on the connector ♦ Knock sensor loose ♦ Short circuit to B+ ♦ Knock sensor ♦ When a fault is stored, the ignition angle is retarded for all cylinders in the range in which knock control is active. ♦ Knock control adaptation is inactive. ♦ If knock control becomes active here, this may indicate engine damage (increased noise level) Affected terminals Terminal III/49 and III/50 Diagnosis/troubleshooting
  16. That code is usually associated with lower than expected voltage signal from the sensor, which can be a wiring issue or a problem with the DME itself.
  17. What test pressure are you seeing when you attach a mechanical gauge in place of the pressure sender? Are you seeing the presence of ANY ferrous metal specs in your oil filter or oil?
  18. You can evacuate the system, and recharge it along with a small amount of UV dye, which will leave a tell tale dye mark at the source of the leak(s).
  19. Both the keys and the Immobilizer need to be coded to the DME, which requires both a PIWIS system and the factory code ID tags for both, which you will never find with used components and why the recommendation to swap all together. Porsche purposely made the system difficult to prevent vehicle theft.
  20. If you haven't already, change the oil cooler order to the "S" model; that cooler is nearly twice the size of the base cooler and fits right in. Once of the best longevity mods you can do to one of these engines .
  21. Welcome to RennTech If you have a head gasket failure, it would be the first we have ever seen as the heads and engine case are an aluminum alloy while the head gasket is steel, so case or head failures are more common. Common intermix areas are the oil cooler, cracked cylinder sleeves, or a cracked head. Good luck...........
  22. For the part time DIY user, the Durametric system is probably the best choice, it is a software based system that runs off any Windows based laptop and can do perhaps 85% of what the factory PIWIS system can do but without the $20,000 starting price tag of the PIWIS system. There are a lot of OBD II scan tools that claim to be Porsche specific, but we are yet to see one that really is or can even come close to the Durametric software. As for how to test, "search" is your friend. There are multiple threads and videos both on this website as well as others that can walk you thru the processes to evaluate your potential problems.
  23. U0404 - Software incompatibility with transmission control module - signal implausible. A U0404 code on a Porsche 997 indicates an issue with the Electronic Shift Module (ESM). Specifically, it means the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) or Transmission Control Module (TCM) has received implausible data from the ESM. The ESM itself could be malfunctioning, sending incorrect data. The Transmission Control Module could also be the source of the problem, either by not processing the ESM's signal correctly or being faulty itself. Damaged wiring, loose connections, or corrosion in the wiring harness connected to the ESM can also cause communication errors. Some deeper diagnostics are going to be needed to decide how to proceed.............
  24. Welcom to RennTech Before considering replacing ANYTHING, first do some diagnostics: Using a Porsche specific scan tool, check for any pending codes, check all four O2 sensors for function and voltage readings, check the MAF for voltage readings, and run A/F ratios; then and only then will you have the information about what, if anything, needs to be addressed.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.