Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Exactly how do you know, "I own one of the first 1997 Boxsters 2.5L sold in America."? And the only thing that is not programmable on the 1997 is the immobilizer code information, in all other aspects it is programable. If your immobilizer has to be replaced, you have to get a new DME that is matched to it, rather than just reprogram the DME to accept the new immobilizer as in the later cars. The aftermarket crowd didn't do much for these cars because the DME is unique to the year, not because it is inaccessible. Your DME can also be replaced with the DME from a 98-99 car (if i
  2. Should work fine. The thermostat has to be remove to facilitate full flow.
  3. We built an entire system to do this that included a hot water heater, and a catch tank, which recirculated hot water with detergent in it to clean out the system. The pump came from a plumbing store. We set it up with hoses that connected to the hose to the thermostat housing after removing the thermostat, and to the line coming back from the radiators. Everything was mounted on a cart so we could role it under the car while it was up on the lift.
  4. Welcome to RennTech I would start by flipping the seats forward, removing the engine panel, and taking a look at your serpentine belt. which may either be broken or worn so badly it is slipping. All of your issues seem to be electric in nature, so your battery may be weak, possible due to the belt, or just weak on its own. If this isn't the source of the problems, I would look next at the electrical section of your ignition switch, a relatively inexpensive items that is well know for being the source of all sorts of electrical gremlins.
  5. I think your efforts would be highly educational for many forum members, if only to address a specific issue they might be working on. You also have my, and I am sure others, admiration for tackling a herculean project. Your alarm problem could be related to the vehicle's sound system, some of the component's were connected to the alarm system to prevent them from being stolen. One way to find out is to scan the car with a Porsche specific scan tool like the Durametric system. These scan tool can read the last ten alarm faults stored in the DME, and could point you to exactly wh
  6. I think you just identified it, those motors are designed to be momentary, not constantly run 😒
  7. A clock spring is beneath the air bag in the steering wheel. P0740 is the code for multiple possible issues: Fluid level not correct Torque converter clutch worn Mechanical damage to pressure regulator #4. Open electrical circuit(s) or short(s). Stuck valve body valve. Most commonly, the fluid level is not correct.
  8. I have a question: Why? I have spent a good portion of my life working on these cars, nothing is ever simple or remotely inexpensive. I have seen the photos you have posted on other sites, and really wonder why you are taking on something of this magnitude?
  9. The factory default for the valves is the loud position, so if they are not hooked up, that is what you get. The valves only move to the "quiet" position when activated. The original reason for the valves was the incredibly restrictive Swiss noise laws for residential neighborhoods, so when the vehicle was operating a low speeds, it was quiet.
  10. What you are overlooking is the simple fact that most PSE post delivery installations never hooked anything up as the default position for the valves is "loud", which is what people wanted the PSE for in the first place. So who's valves are on the exhaust system is pretty much irrelevant. We have probably installed a couple dozen PSE's over the years and I can only remember one that the owner wanted fully hooked up; and later even he eventually said activation of the valves was a waste of money.
  11. The code is pretty specific, it is seeing a difference between where the MAF is and where the throttle body is located; the leak has to be in between those two elements, but does not preclude that there may be other leaks that have not thrown codes.
  12. You can use a smoke test to find intake systems leak.
  13. P0441 code is EVAP purge valve, alongside the drive side intake manifold tubes. P2281 Code is most likely an air leak between the MAF and the throttle body, the code generally means that the powertrain control module (PCM) has detected a degree of airflow at the mass airflow (MAF) sensor which does not exist at the throttle body.
  14. Only proves that even blind squirrel finds and acorn every once in a while........................
  15. Running the wrong juice in these gearboxes can get real expensive real quick.........😉
  16. It could, but failing hydraulic tensioners typically cause excessive start up noise, not deviation value problems. As you would be removing the hydraulic tensioners to replace the pads, it would be a good time to update them, just be careful as the tensioners are not all the same and cannot be interchanged.
  17. Perhaps, but then every day you get to make all new friends..........................😱
  18. They have a snap on ball connector at the transmission end, which wear with time and become loose:
  19. Unfortunately, this is a common sign of wear on the chain pads between the cams, which requires replacing the pads and retiming the cams:
  20. The factory fluid is the way to go with these gearboxes. I would change the fluid and see how the gearbox responds; if you still have the second gear issue, I would be looking at the detent.
  21. First of all, these transmissions are very sensitive to the lubricant used; over the years, we have had numerous cars come into the shop with everything from noise complaints to poor shifting issues (particularly in the cold), and for the most part everyone was cured by thoroughly draining the lube out of the gearbox and then refilling with the factory fluid. Most people do not realize that Porsche factory lube, which is a full synthetic, is produced to Porsche specs, and does not conform to aftermarket product specs. At one time, we inquired of several major lube companies if they had an ex
  22. You will be happy with the Stant stuff, some of mine is over 30 years old and still work like new. Never hurts to buy quality, especially with tools. Amazon is always a great source of both parts and tools.
  23. First of all, welcome to RennTech The clutch is either slipping or it isn't; there are no in between on this. Regardless of why, you need to pull the car apart and look at it to see what kind of condition it is in. Then you will start the "while you are in there" items like the RMS, IMS bearing, and AOS unit; all items that would require either pulling it back apart down the road, or in the case of the AOS, several hours of tedious effort to replace a device that could have been done in about 5 min. while you had the trans out. Good luck.
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.