Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

JFP in PA

Moderators
  • Posts

    8,587
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    190

Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Is this where I ask if I have posted yet? Yes, I am aware that the photo is a lightweight wheel, which is why I originally asked if he had the factory or an aftermarket flywheel. The stock wheel can still have problems in this area as well if something comes adrift inside the bell housing, like a bolt head or piece of clutch facing, and starts banging around and buggering up the factory shutter elements. There is very little room between the sensor and the shutter, otherwise the sensor would not generate a signal; and if anything solid tries to get between the sensor and the flywheel, or causes a burr to develop on an element, usually leads to needing at least a new sensor.
  2. The CPS is a simple “Hall Effect” sensor; it is located near a shutter wheel (on the back of the flywheel) that creates a signal when the shutter passes near the sensor. This is also the way the old “electronic” distributors worked when cars still actually had distributors (God, am I dating myself). The following picture shows the shutter assembly on the rear of the flywheel, and you will note the bent shutter prong near the center. As the shutter is pretty close to the sensor, there is not a lot of room. One individual actually had a fastener come loose inside the bell housing and whack the sensor as well. Your starter noise is very common, pull it and clean the Bendix drive, then lubricate it with a dry DuPont Teflon spray lube and you will be back in business.
  3. Several manufacturer’s (including Asian and Europeans) no longer allow “field servicing” of their transmissions, particularly automatics, preferring to swap them out for a “factory rebuilt” unit. As the result, parts are very hard to find, if you can find them at all. The explanations’ for why they do this range from “specialized tooling/fixtures are required”, to “extremely tight tolerances require highly trained personnel and equipment”. Whether or not these explanations’ are total malarkey or not is obviously in the eye of the beholder, but it has made working on the transmissions nearly impossible. Recently, an out of warranty Nissan Altima with a pretty bad fluid leak in the bell housing area required a $2700 replacement transmission (parts only) because there are absolutely no parts available (other than replacement fluid) for the type of trans that was in the car.
  4. The coolant system is designed to operate at about 18.2 PSIG for optimal cooling performance. The early caps often did not get the system up to that pressure, or lost the ability over time, causing slow loss of coolant. That said, running a car with a leaking coolant tank is asking for a problem. These tanks have been known to fail catastrophically, stranding the car and requiring flat bedding; or even worse, overheating the engine which led to other, more severe and often permanent issues. Even slow leaks can cause “hot spots” in what is already a system that operates way too hot to begin with. If you have a leaking tank, replace it as soon as possible; don’t try and “band-aid” the problem.
  5. Correct assembly of the M96/97 engine requires a significant amount of specialized single use tooling, as well as very specific knowledge or access to the OEM engine manuals, both of which are expensive and not always easy to find. I know of no way to get around these issues. Individuals that have successfully assembled their own engines have either purchased all of the necessary equipment and tooling, or fabricated their own. If you do not have access to the tools and the correct assembly information, you are heading for a disaster. This is why no Porsche dealers, either in Romania or the USA, assemble or rebuild engines; they just put in new ones they get from Porsche. Here in North America, there are only a handful of shops that can do this type of work.
  6. I would proceed very cautiously on this. Some individuals have had good luck with aftermarket warranties’, many have not. A lot of people have been burned by extended warranties that ultimately turned out to be worthless when they need it. The industry is rife with fly-by-night companies that go out of business regularly and then reopen under a different name the next day. A lot of shops, mine included, will not do business with any of the aftermarket warranty companies as they are very slow payers and try to dictate how much can be charged for a given repair.
  7. Yes, the gas is definitely an issue as it will gum up the injectors; you need to drain the tank, flush it, and then purge the system to get rid of the old stuff. And people ask why they should use fuel stabilizer...... The crank position sensor reads from a shutter wheel on the back of the flywheel; if the sensor goes out, it usually throws a code.
  8. Change the oil and filter; a good time to get rid of the Mobil 1 as well................
  9. Possible purge valve problem in the EVAP system (behind the fender liner, passenger's side front wheel well). Do a search, this comes up from time to time.......
  10. Sign in a local repair shop: Labor Rate: $100/Hr. If you watch: $125/Hr. If you help: $175/Hr. If you already worked on it: $225/Hr.
  11. All crank position sensors are simple Hall Effect units, only questions are does it have the correct electrical specs (resistance, etc.) to match the OEM, is it the correct length (critical), and are the connectors the same (does not look like it in the photo)...................
  12. P1341 indicates that the CPS or VarioCam unit on bank 1 may have issues. A PST II/PIWIS/Durametric system can verify some diagnostics before moving forward. All of these systems can actuate the VarioCam solenoid (often the issue) without the engine running; if the solenoid does not actuate, the course of repair is obvious. If the solenoid does work, you may have either a dying CPS or a wiring issue. You are not going to locate the 9675 “special tool” (called a pin out box), which cost over $800 and need to come from Germany, so don’t bother trying to locate one. Any testing or electrical issues can be corrected using common sense and a good digital multi meter which costs less than $50 and is always a useful addition to any tool box. Should you get it fixed? Yes, this is not going to get better on its own, and can lead to other problems as well. The will also not pass emissions inspection in most states in this condition either.
  13. Yes, sparingly, and only quality products, like Techron................
  14. Like most other “extractor systems”, it will not always be able to reach the bottom of the sumps because things are in the way, so it will leave behind some of the old oil and crud you should be removing. There are drain plugs on the bottom of the oil sump and the gear box for a reason……..
  15. Contact Jake Raby at Flat Six Innovations in GA; Jake is "the man" when it comes to M96/97 engines, anything from mild to wild. Do a "google" on his business and you will see what I mean........... Flat Six Innovations You might also consider a motor out of a wreck, Mike Focke's website has identified some good "boneyards: Mike's site And do not have anything to do with Motor Meisters, their reputation for ripping people off is well known. You should also remain cognizant of the fact that any quality rebuild is going to be expensive; these engines had several know issues that should be addressed, plus the design makes them no picnic to work on as they require a lot of specialized single use tooling.
  16. In general, Porsche dealers do not want to CPO a car that has been “outside” of their control; e.g.: Sold by a third non-Porsche party. You may find exceptions to that, but I believe it is a fairly widespread reality.
  17. The Tip equipped cars had a larger battery and a different alternator with higher output.
  18. Yes, a special tool is need; in fact, it is so “special” that only Porsche sells it for a little over $100. But you can make one yourself in about 15 min. with some scrap tubing, a hack saw and a file………………
  19. I don not believe there is a specific interval for changing the filter, but only if and when there are certain EVAP system related codes. In any case, part #997-201-501-00 is only about $30.
  20. Jake Raby (Flat Six Innovations in Cleveland, Georgia; about an hour and a half outside Atlanta) is one of, if not the pre-eminent builders of the M96/97 engine. Jake offers engines from in various output configurations. He also currently has about an eight month backlog of customer engines in his shop, which also says something about his engines.
  21. The lightest oil we put in any Porshe's is 10W-40, and it ain't a Mobil 1 product either.
  22. The best way to find an electrical drain it to put a multi-meter between the positive battery cable and the battery terminal, and set it on current (mA). Should read in the 40 - 60 mA range, if it is higher, start pulling the fuses one at a time until the draw suddenly drops. That circuit is the issue..........................
  23. You are getting a weak or non existent signal from the CPS on bank 2; possible wiring issue or a bad sensor.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.