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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. +1 on Loren and McMike27's comments; I would only add that you should use an inch pound torque wrench on the sump cover bolts, much more accurate at low torque levels..............
  2. Most likely, you are in for a "bone yard search" if the connector you broke is on the wiring up from the removable brake pigtail; only the very early cars had a disconnect point in the trunk area, yours probably does not. This is not a big project, but finding the connector will definitely be an "Easter Egg Hunt"........
  3. Yes, #4 & 5 are cam holding tools.
  4. I don’t mean to sound patronizing, but if you do not know how to use these tools, perhaps it would be better to either let someone that does handle it, or at least be there to guide you through the process……………..
  5. As you just purchase the car, and you live in CA, it is the seller’s responsibility in to certify the car’s smog. Perhaps time to go back on them?
  6. More and more, the OEM’s are making fewer driveline parts available for their cars. This is happening for multiple reasons: First, fewer dealer tech’s are qualified or equipped to disassemble driveline components. Second, rebuilding components on a flat rate basis sucks from the perspective of the dealer’s cash flow; too many rebuilds become money losers for the dealer. Third, simply too many come backs; both due to the lack of knowledge/equipment, and because something else craps out as soon as the first problem is fixed. So the standard “modus operandi” had become “pull it and put in a new/rebuilt unit” which address all the above. Doesn’t matter if it is the CVT in a Nissan Sentra or the PDK in a new Turbo……………..
  7. I try cleaning up the bleeder valve and putting on a new cap, if the crud returns, you can easily rebuilt the unit, or just replace it; one word of caution: Be careful with the screws on the bleeder, they snap off if you look at them the wrong way.........
  8. If you are refering the the small shaft under the bail moving up while the car is hot; yes, it is supposed to do that. More likely is that the cap is bad; what are the last two digits on your cap?
  9. We have a couple of the older cars running them, no problems to date.
  10. The unit with the external spring is the newer design that is supposed to keep the tensioner paddle from "flapping" until oil pressure has built up. They seem to work well.
  11. Take it to the dealer so the problem is at least on record. Ask them to check the cam deviation values at idle; if they are steady, you are in good shape; if they swing back and forth, you/they need to worry. Try running a heavier weight oil; I prefer 10W-40, many like 5W-40. Pull the oil filter and cut it open; if it is clean, you are in good shape; if it holds metal flakes, specs of flat black plastic, or granular metal the can be picked up by a magnet, you/they need to worry.
  12. Glad to hear you got it sorted.
  13. As the washer protects the alloy crank carrier from wear, I don't think ignoring it is a long term option..............
  14. It is a thrust washer, #24 in the diagram and it will require considerable disassembly to access:
  15. Not necessarily, but to know for sure, you must have the codes. Do you know anyone with a Durametric System? Otherwise you need someone with either a PSTII or PIWIS unit…………..
  16. What you are seeing it the cam's deviation from its ideal position (this is normal, caused by mechanical tolerances, slop in the chains, VarioCam, etc.). Usually at this point, the owner/operator instantly panics and starts call everyone because they think the values they see ( something like your -1 and -0.5 ) means their engine has jumped time, when it is completely normal deviation from ideal values. The cam movement with increasing and decreasing RPM is the action of the engine’s VarioCam, again completely normal. As long as the cam deviation values remain steady at an idle, everything is fine; if they start jumping back and forth, that is another issue entirely. There was a posting in the archives of a Porsche article that explains in detail both VarioCam and VarioCam Plus systems and how they work. Might make good introductory reading…………
  17. I could be wrong, but I think it is only in the "Pro" version. You also need to keep in mind that Durametric, unlike a lot of other systems, is a "work in progress", but does provide updates.
  18. +1 on Loren’s comment. Clearing a code, particularly an unknown code (not read) is asking for grief. Take 5 min., get it read, and you will know what is going on…….
  19. It was "obvious" to me because I was looking at their "Pro Line" system which bundles a lot but costs more as well; so yes, you can get it at the price you outlined. That said, the last time we evaluated the Pro Line for the shop, the Durametric Pro system still had several advantages as their system could not test activate several systems, including the VarioCam solenoids (a common test), the fuel pumps, the ABS/PSM pump, plus several others. It also seemed to have difficulty with clearing some of Porsche's "restricted" code areas. I don't know if they ever corrected that, but the Durametric Pro system handles all of them, and regularly adds more. I know some find the Durametric confusing, but when you use it everyday, more and more becomes obvious. We would have added a PIWIS unit and gotten just about everything, but Porsche has priced that outside the realm of reality........
  20. The sensors and wiring are the easy bit, cars with the factory leveling system also can run diagnostics on the lights through the DME using PIWIS/PSTII, and there is at least one systems fault indicator (Code) for the leveling system alone, plus others for various functions’ in the lights; indicative of the system being routed and controlled through the car's computer system. How do you plan on making that connection and activating it?
  21. The auto leveling sensors attach to the front and rear suspension and require an entire wiring harness of their own. To my knowledge, retrofitting auto leveling is neither for the faint of heart or wallet, which is why no one attempts it………….
  22. There is a Schrader valve (look like a tire stem valve) on the fuel rail. You can jump the relay, or just turn the ignition switch on (does the same thing). If you have access to a PIWIS/PSTII/ Durametric system, all have the ability to cause the pump to run. I think the test is also covered in the Bentley manual. You will need to get a new cap and seal for the Schrader valve, they are not reusable, but only cost a few cents……….
  23. The fuel pump has two critical parameters: Fuel delivery volume (measured in mL/min.) and pressure. A pump can deliver considerable volume, but the injectors still will not operate correctly without the correct level of pressure. All M96/97 engines came equipped with a test port on the fuel system for testing both. If the pump cannot deliver the correct pressure range, the volume delivery becomes irrelevant..............
  24. Life would be a whole lot simpler if you connected a fuel pressure test gauge to the test port and checked for the correct pressure..................
  25. And have you checked the battery (e.g.: had it load tested)? Would not be the first brand new dud we have seen..... You could also be having parasitic current draw issues that are pulling the battery down; does the car have any aftermarket electrical/electronics in it?
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