JFP in PA

No. Oil/coolant intermix is typically caused by a failed oil cooler, blown out casting plug, bad head gasket, or cracked cylinder head. Do not take this issue lightly; do not use the car until it is found and fixed..................

I would be surprised if a crank position sensor failure did not throw a code..................like P0336 ("CPS out of range")...........

We have had several customers "experiment" with light weight and gel cell racing batteries in street cars, to date, none have been particularly successful. Common problems include dimming/ignition issues with bi-xenon/lits, stero issues, and brutally hard starting issues at even mildly cool weather. Problem is that small, light weight batteries are short on total cranking current (amps) and have significantly lower current reserves to properly operate the car systems. Think of the battery as a type of gas tank, small and light help handling, but brings other drawbacks. Leave the small gel cells for the race track and buy a decent properly sized battery, you will be much better off in the long run. The Optima 34R is a good choice, a bit lighter without sacrificing capacity, and as it is a sealed AGM design, it will live about twice as long on average, and there will never be any chance of corrosion in the battery tray area. Only downsides are it costs a bit more, and require fabricating mounting plate, or buying a commercial kit from someone like Yellow Dog Motorsports. I have four Optima's in my personal cars, one over ten years old, and dozens of customers running them as well, with absolutely no issues……

Stay with the OEM plstic style, they seem to casue few problems than the aftermarket units, and also seem to live longer...........

If you still have the original clutch, it is well past its expected life (usually gone in 40-60K miles), so you shouldn't be surprised. Time to pull the gearbox and renew the clutch and flyhwheel units; also a great opportunity for an updated RMS and IMS, as you need to pull the clutch and flywheel to get at them.................

I'd have to agree that this thing is a waste of time and money. If you can't get your foot down fast enough, technology isn't the issue..............

Fill is on the left side, up near the axle; the circles show the fill and drain:

You are a "poster child" example of why I always tell DIY'ers to take the fill plug out first, because if you can't get it out, it is a good thing to know before pulling the drain plug and finding out you're screwed......................

The transmission drain is beneath the trianglualr metal panel on the bottom of the transmission. 6 speeds use an Allan plug, 5 speeds use a triple square plug. Use the OEM gear oil, Porsche uses a totally unique spec full synthetic gear oil. Gear oil manufacturers, the honest ones anyways, admit that they do not have a compatible lube.

Jake Raby owns Flat Six Innovations, Charles Navarro owns LN Engineering.......................

This is a litte bit of a "hot button" issue; a lot of people have done cheapo aftermarket HID kits and love them, but a lot of these "upgrades" go badly. We get a fair number of them in with multiple MIL waring lights on. Here is a recent example from another board: We have seen just about everything go wrong with these kits, MIL's, noise in the stereo, electronics issues, burnt wiring harnesses, etc, etc. I can't tell you how many of them we have removed because of problems. People considering aftermarket HID kits need to know that along with being cheap, they are problematic, failure prone, and in many states are totally illegal (ticket bait due to excessive glare, some states now even require towing the car if you get caught) and will also not pass several state inspections………..but they are cheap………. I've driven Porsches with both the after market and OEM HID's, and there is absolutely no comparison, the OEM's are that much better (due to the focusing unit) that they are worth the money……..

Tool actually looks like this, and you won't find it at Sears (or most any other tool outlet). Get it online:

OK, found it: Calibrate the steering angle sensor with the wheels in straight-ahead position! Note Check the steering angle sensor actual value with wheels in straight-ahead position before calibrating the steering angle sensor! Only recalibrate the steering angle sensor on the measuring platform if the steering angle actual value lies outside the tolerance or is doubtful! 1. Drive vehicle onto measuring platform. Affix measured-value pickups to all wheels. 2. Check wheel alignment values and adjust if necessary.? If the wheel alignment values on the front and rear axles are correct, calibrate the steering angle sensor with the front wheels in straight-ahead position. Calibration description in following text. 3. Connect the Porsche System Tester 2 to the diagnostic socket. 4. Select the "Calibrate steering angle sensor" menu with the Porsche System Tester 2 in the PSM system. Entry to the PSM system takes place through the ABS system (automatic status change after PSM). 5. Confirm calibration start. The procedure can also be interrupted. 6. The PST 2 now requests the 4-digit safety code shown in the display. Note This safety code must be extracted in the Actual Values menu, Safety Code sub-menu! The safety code changes automatically each time provided that PSM is called up again! The calibration procedure will be interrupted if an incorrect safety code is entered! This time-consuming procedure ensures that the steering angle sensor is not calibrated unintentionally! The steering angle sensor can be calibrated several times! The value (the zero position) is stored in the steering angle sensor itself! 7. Input the 4-digit safety code with the cursor keys (4 centre keys on right). Then continue with the (>>) key. Note The final possibility to interrupt the calibration is not to confirm the safety code input! To do this, press the appropriate function key for no! Important for calibration: The wheels of the vehicle must be in straight-ahead position . 8. Confirm safety code input with wheels in straight-ahead position. Display in the Tester display after the safety code input has been confirmed: Steering-angle sensor being calibrated. For safety reasons, read out the current steering angle sensor actual value after calibration. To do this: 9. Leave the PSM system. Then call up PSM again and select the steering angle sensor in the Actual values menu. Required display in the Tester display: 0° ± 3° when the wheels are in straight-ahead position. 10. Repeat the calibration if the value is not correct.

Yeah, there is a steering angle calibration setting (cannot remeber the correct Porsche term) that needs to be addressed (computer reset), it has been discussed before............

I am not upset, I just ran the numbers and this product just seemed more than a bit excessively priced............

Let's look at that: The LN engineering unit sells for about $595 (retail) and is projected to last 40-50K miles (about the typical clutch life in manual M96 cars). So you would go through three LN units in about 120-15K miles, at a cost of $1785. Most of the cars I see in my shop do less than 10K miles a year, and many do less than 2K. Using 6.5K as a very generous "average mileage" for the cars I see, and 40K for the expected time to replacement for the LN unit (at clutch replacement time), you would be replacing the LN unit (on average) every 6 years or so, or three times over around 18 years; well beyond the life expectancy of these cars. This Spanish unit costs nearly the same amount as three LN units for this one unit, and has a "warrantee" for three years............and you view this as "fair"? I would be the first to say the design is "interesting", but the warranty, and the fact it is from a small foreign manufacturer does not impress me, nor does the rather extreme pricing……….

Nicely detailed write up............

At today's Euro conversion rate, that is nearly $1,700.................

I think you would have to find a dealer with too much time on their hands to get this “training”. An alternative would be to join your local PCA chapter and attend their events; I’m sure you will find several people willing to help you understand and get the most out of your car………..

If you want a better made filter with molded plastic end caps and cage, finer pore size and at a lower price, look at the Wix/NAPA Gold 57211:

Consdering that many dealers have used Techron for a lot of years, you won't have any issues...........

Keropur is BASF's answer to Chevron's Techron, nothing more..............

I have been through this "crow's foot conundrum" argument about a dozen times now; if you do not compensate for the change in the length of the lever caused by the additional length of the added extension, you will over torque the fastener.......................and if you do not want to believe me, check with Snap-On and just about anyone else that makes torques measurement devices, all of them say the same thing..............

No, Durametric or PIWIS............

The big difference is that the extension shown above does increase the effective length of the torque wrench. As a result, the actual torque applied to the bolt will be higher than the setting on the torque wrench. The extension shown in the above picture is called a crowfoot extension, which can be handy when trying to torque hard-to-reach bolts. You must, however, use a formula to account for the length of the extension: wrench setting = desired torque x wrench length / (wrench length + extension length) For example lets say that the length of the torque wrench is 18 inches, and the length of the extension is 6 inches. The desired torque is 180 ft-lbs. Wrench setting = 180 x 18 / (18 + 6) = 180 x 18 / 24 = 135 ft-lbs. If the torque wrench is set to 135 ft-lbs, the actual torque applied to the bolt will be 180 ft-lbs.