JFP in PA

The fuel system had an EVAP closed loop recovery system that uses engine vacuum to operate. By not shutting off the engine, you are creating a vacuum leak, causing the problem. Shut the damned thing off when you refuel............

He said they used to dip, so I'm assuming it was there to begin with.................

The light motion is controlled by a control module that dips the lights on start up and swings them up to fill in the high beams. Possible problems are the module has gone bad or has a connection issue. If the lights are factory (rather than installed after delivery) a PST II/PIWIS can do diagnostics to spot the problem, otherwise it is time to get a testmeter and start checking things.....................

An absolutely unnecessary mod, but it looks good. Looks much better, costs less than $15...................

With today's gas prices, the ugly black locking unit looks much better........

The issue is a failing Bendix drive unit on the starter that is not retracting fully or in a timely fashion. While the Bendix unit can be serviced or replaced, most just replace the entire starter. Remanufactured OEM unit will be in the $220-300 range with a core exchange.

I copied several part numbers from harness connections to my '03 Boxster S so that I could assemble a custom harness for installing a new stereo but the numbers come up as "customer proprietary" on Amp's site... i.e., they are renumbered for Porsche. Does anyone know how I can get generic part numbers for building custom wiring harnesses for connection to existing factory connections? Specifically I am looking for the mates to: 1. Phone harness connector part # AMP 1-828-819-1 (factory harness has a female connector) 2. Amplifier harness (BE6600) part # AMP 1-828-882-1 (factory harness has a female connector) 3. Radio Harness black and yellow connectors (factory harness has female connectors) This will all end up as a DIY for stereo installations... Thanks, Rex Suggest contacting Crutchfield (or someone similar) and ask about after market audio install wiring adaptor kits. I've used them on several cars, and they allow you to install an aftermarket system without cutting any parts of the factory harness.....also makes it possible to pull the after market unit out and reinstall the factory unit in mins. and without any fuss.

A copy of my response to the same question on another site: I would not use Mobil 1 for a very simple reason: I emailed their tech line and was told that “Mobil 1 does not have appropriate gear oil for your application.” I would agree that changing the gear lube more frequently than the factory call for, but Porsche has gone to lengths (as with other components) to prevent the after market from replicating the correct formulation (they use obtuse specs that no one in the US, who use API specs, seems to be able to discern). As for those who have gone in a different direction, we have a 2004 Japanese car in the shop at the moment that the owner used a Mobil 1 product in his 6 speed, and for nearly a year had no issues (actually felt the shifting was improved); then suffered severe shifting issues that we traced to disintegration of the synchronizers. We queried Mobil 1 and got the same response, no appropriate product for the application (in this case the correct spec was for a GL-4 rated lube, which Mobil does not have). I have seen several postings on this site, and others, that offer conflicting and usually unsubstantiated opinions on which gear oil is safe/correct/better in Porsche gear boxes; often contradicting other postings. Contacting the manufacturers of gear oils has also proven disconcerting as some appear to have said yes and then no to the same question at different times. That said, the factory fill is a full synthetic, and is readily available from dealers willing to discount it somewhat (e.g.: Sunset), it seems a conservative move to use what the factory likes, even if it cost a bit more. As these gear boxes use less than three quarts of lube, and a new gear box costs a ton of cash, using Porsche’s over priced lube would seem a reasonable pathway………….but that is just my opinion…………….. ;-)

Changing it before it is due will not hurt anything as long as you refill it with the correct lube. Several have posted that they saw improved shifting characteristics after changing the gear oil.................suggest reading my posting on this subject in the 986 DIY section.

I wouldn't be without it................

Yes, get rid of the "over the headlight" syle unit and get the later model.....................

Current V1 with "PoP"....................

So I guess that I should immediately panic over the set that have been on my 3500 lb Nissan for more than a decade of daily driving in any environment where the temps range from over 100F in the summer to sub zero (with tons of salt on the road) in the winter? Oh, and the car came from the factory with the stainless lines...............including the clutch hydraulic line. I have read more incorrect "web-myths" on this subject than I would care to mention. If stainless lines are "short lived" or not for "heavy duty" use, how did they get DoT approval (yes, there are braided stainless lines with full DoT ratings), the same approval required for the OEM rubber types which are supposed to be good for the life of the car? Braided lines do a couple of positive things: They do improve pedal feel as they do not flex as much as rubber under pressure; they are significantly stronger and resistant to damage than the rubber lines, which is why many types of racing require them as protection from either track or shrapnel damage. In over 35 years of racing everything from SCCA to NHRA top fuel, I have never seen or heard of a braided line failing……………………….

Rubbish. I've used them for many years on street and race vehicles, have never had or heard of a failure.........

Loren, I spoke with Jeff Clark about these 996 OBD II manuals, and they are pre e-gas only (98-99) and would not be usefull for later models..........................

First of all, buy a couple of small vacuum line caps or make your own out of sections of vacuum hose and insert a screw into the end. Use the caps to plug the line when you disconnect the brake flex line. Letting the lines drip out runs the risk of getting air into the ABS/PSM system, which you could have real difficulty getting out without a PST II/PIWIS to cycle the system.............................................. Then go buy your self a Motive pressue bleeder and bleed the lines properly when you are done ...............

Everything they sell is expensive, I recently priced a PIWIS system and it cost more (just for the first year) than I paid to add a full bay and lift to my shop...................anything to keep the independents’ out of the loop.............

That is not correct, correctly installed after market lits move up and down when first turned on................

Let's see........... We go from a gear oil with the wrong API GL rating for these gearboxes (Mobil 1), to one with no API rating at all (GM/Penzoil Syncromesh)..................yeah, that makes sense................... Wow, everybody is an expert around here. JFP do a google search on GM Syncromesh around the net. I have used it in everthing from 500hp street driven civics to RX7's with Japanese 3 Rotor right upto Supras with 800+ hp and Audi S4's with dual K04's makin around 400+whp with quattro. Guys who run major power end up with tranny issues and the GM syncromesh works wonders in all these cases. Now eventually they will need to be rebuilt however in the mean time it gave them all some extra tranny life they would have never received before. The supra especially with the Getrag tranny was grinding into 2nd pretty badly. The syncromesh all but took away 90% of the grind for another year and eventually he stripped the gear right outta the box at the drag strip, if he didn't do that who knows how much longer it would have lasted. It's a bit of an unknown trick however just because it was developed for GM doesn't mean it's bad. I'll bet you have N rated tires on your car too eh? Let's start with API GL ratings (you can join the API website and read all about it); the API (American Petroleum Institute) sets the testing standards for various product parameters and requirements set by the SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers, the engineers that design and test the gearbox) for use in vehicles. Porsche (as well as many other OEM’s such as Nissan) has been using API GL-4 rated gear oils for many years. The GL-4 rating requirement stems from the use of certain alloy types in the transmission components, specifically the synchronizer and bearing assemblies. Use of a non GL-4 rated lubricant leads to premature wear or corrosion of these components, poor shifting, and potentially catastrophic component failures; which can get pretty pricey with Porsches. Mobil 1 does not produce a GL-4 rated fluid, and in response to technical question has recommended against using their gear oils in any gearbox requiring GL-4 lubricants. GM/Pennzoil Synchromesh technical bulletins do not list any API ratings, but instead say: “SYNCHROMESH FLUID is specifically formulated for synchromesh transmissions used by General Motors requiring General Motors Part No. 12345349 (Specification No. 9985648) Synchromesh Transmission Fluid or Chrysler transmissions requiring Part No. 4874464 (Specification MS-9224). It is also recommended for use in General Motor transmissions requiring General Motors Part No. 12345577. It is listed in the Pennzoil Lubrication Recommendation And Capacities Guide as “GLS.” PENNZOIL® SYNCHROMESH FLUID is NOT intended for all GLS applications. You must verify the manufacturer’s part number, indicated by a superscript number and found at the end of the vehicle application listing.” Therefore, this product does not meet the API GL rating required for a Porsche. But, instead of doing individual research into what lubricants your gearbox was designed to use, please go with the "I saw it on the internet" approach, and feel free to put whatever you want into your transmission; as well, use whatever crap third world tires that floats your boat……………..

Let's see........... We go from a gear oil with the wrong API GL rating for these gearboxes (Mobil 1), to one with no API rating at all (GM/Penzoil Syncromesh)..................yeah, that makes sense...................

Because Mobil 1 does not make a fluid with the correct GL rating to make it compatible with these transmissions...........other than that, no reason...........

OK; Gotta ask: Loren, how do get these numbers? I've now seen you respond to two of these inquireries, always with two possibles.....................How?

Not were I am, but i will look for the paper work on them next week when i'm home. They are a Brembo part, available from Race Tech..........

stay tuned for pictures on how to turn an S rear caliper into a base rear caliper and vice versa. BTW, the base rotors will work with the S rear calipers. i will post pics on how / why this is the case. i'm thinking maybe brembo sends you cross drilled base rears. next time you buy a set, measure the thickness. i bet they're standard thickness. i'll post the pics / measurements / explanation a bit later; still messy from working earlier. Actually, the rear rotors are not "base thickness" (20 mm), they are "s" thickness (24 mm), I just checked....................

fantastic information. thanks! Anytime. I've done three of these conversions, all using the Brembo parts from the above sources, and all were a snap to do. I still have one set on an 02, and they have been great to drive, and have not caused any problems........ the last "full" kit I purchased (everything for all four corners) was $2795 (delivered) from Suncoast.................