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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    Good point, that has detailed connection information for the wiring as well.......
  2. JFP in PA
    It can be used with out the control unit, but you will not get the maximum impact of the lights as they cannot swing up to fill in on high beams, which is very impressive once you have seen it.................... The wiring and the control unit should be available from a dealer.
  3. JFP in PA
    You can read the part number in the photo. The unit connects into the wiring harness with a wiring kit that should have come with the lights:
  4. JFP in PA
    First of all, the fuses should have been changed to 15 Amp, 25's are way too big and will cause problems if there ever is a short. In order for the lights to swing up on start up (and pivot up to fill in the high beams on the road), you need to install a control module in the headlight harness: Here is a photo of the complete aftermarket kit from Carnewal in Belgium, you can see the wiring and the small red colored box with the control unit in it:
  5. JFP in PA
    Yeah, buy a replacement switch unit for about $10 and put it in yourself in about 1 hour; problem solved.........
  6. JFP in PA
    Old enough to know better..............
  7. JFP in PA
    Single mass flywheels are problematic; lack of torsional/harmonic dampening can lead to severe issues like cracked/broken crankshafts. We have seen a couple of these, and the issue has been written up on multiple websites by some pretty well known Porsche engine builders. Going to a light weight flywheel (without dynamically balancing the engine and/or adding other dampening devices) will improve the responsiveness of the engine, but at a potential price.........
  8. JFP in PA
    While your experience with 996 is correct, perhaps you should re-read the original post: "I am hoping someone may be able to tell me how to remove my stripped torx head bolt in my transmission on my 01 Boxster S." Boxsters, depending upon year, and in some cases model, have multiple triple square (12 point) fasteners used in them, in applications such as the transmission drain plugs, alternator pulley fasteners, as well as the transmission bolt in question. While most M96 equipped manual transmission 986 cars used Torx bolts on the flywheels; a number of the very early cars also had triple square fasteners there as well. Fortunately, Porsche did not continue their flywheel usage for very long, and all replacement flywheel bolts are Torxs.
  9. JFP in PA
    Simple: Replacing the triple square bolt is false economy. It is not the only triple square fastener in the car; and, in fact, and is also not the only one of that sixe (10MM). So, after he first destroys and then replaces the bolt with an Allen head, exactly what is he going to do when he reaches the flywheel, which is not held on by hex or Allen head fasteners? Again, he is going to need the correct tool to get the old ones out and the new ones torqued in. And how about when he wants to drain the gear box before pulling it out? On some models, the drain plug is a triple square……………. These cars can have triple square fasteners in some of the strangest places, like holding the alternator pulley on for some model years. Not all of them are replaceable with either hex or Allen head fasteners, even if you could find them in the correct sizes and load bearing capacity rating. If you can't afford the $25 for the correct tool set, this is problem is going to be a reoccurring headache………….. Secondly, and perhaps it is just me, but I find "touting for applause" more than a little tacky….
  10. JFP in PA
    Dealer only item, buy a bag full of them, they only cost a couple of cents each.................We get ours out of Sunset Porsche in OR..
  11. JFP in PA
    Except for all the other triple square fasteners around the car, which will be similarly butchered using the wrong tool.....................................which I did not find "useful".........is there a "minus" to check? Jeez..........................
  12. JFP in PA
    +1 on using anti-seize. Also be aware that the plug has a small aluminum crush ring on it, which should be replaced. Only cost a couple of cents, but can be a source of leaks
  13. JFP in PA
    There is absolutely nothing wrong with the triple square fastener, provided you don't use the wrong tool on it and mangle it. We pull these out all the time, using a 10 mm XZN socket, and never have any issues. Right tool for the job makes all the difference. You can find full sets of XZN sockets on Amazon for less that $25, and as there are other "triple square" fasteners strewn through out the car as well, having the set makes a lot of sense………….
  14. JFP in PA
    Loren is correct; too many mistake the XZN "Triple Square" fasteners for a torx and end up mutilating it..................
  15. JFP in PA
    Can't help you there as the ones I did had new (GT3 I think) bumpers installed................
  16. JFP in PA
    Bad idea. Adding spacers would in effect increase the leverage the bar has on the fasteners, weakening the entire structure. Besides which, no sanctioning body I know of would ever approve it………..
  17. JFP in PA
    Steve, the reason that automotive cooling hoses have "threads" in them is the same reason that tires do: Strength. Long term strength under pressure, temperature, exposure to glycols, and vibration/flex are required for automotive hoses to survive long term. The last point is important as automotive hoses have to be able to flex and bend while hot or cold; dishwasher hose does not, and only sees dirty tap water. The parts your photo shows are for a dishwasher drain line, which is very low pressure (a small pump pushes drain water into your sink, venting to atmosphere), so they are not designed to stand much pressure. My concern would be that the dishwasher hose will give out and require pulling the nose apart again after flat bedding the car home. I’d go with automotive hose and some sort of adaptor…….
  18. JFP in PA
    You can cut a groove in it with either a Dremel tool or a rotary die grinder, which would do what Mike is talking about; but is going to get a lot of metal into the motor. I'd try the bearing puller first........ .
  19. JFP in PA
    No. You need to pull the axle (doesn't always come out without difficulty, disconnecting the hub from the lower control arm helps) in order to use the tool. By that time, it is just as easy to pull the hub out and do it on the bench or in a press............. The tool works fine instead of a press, but you need to get at it from behind in order for it to work..............
  20. JFP in PA
    Something must have changed since I did one of these (which was some time ago), perhaps they stopped making the "stepped" hoses and went with the OEM stock "S" layout units. In any case, I think that Wayne may have your solution, with one exception: rather than just use the single copper plumbing adaptor (which has very limited gripping surface for the hose), I would also sweat a short length of the correct size copper tubing into both sides to give you more surface to grip to. Parts shouldn't cost all that much, and should only take a few min. to cobble togeather..............
  21. JFP in PA
    You need an adjustable "inside bearing/race puller", looks like this:
  22. JFP in PA
    One application of a .50 Cal. Desert Eagle will solve the issue quickly and permanently................
  23. JFP in PA
    +1 Mike is spot on............
  24. JFP in PA
    To do it properly, you will need to determine the heat transfer capacity of the original Tip center radiator, and mount enough air/oil capacity coolers in front of the outside radiators to make up for it. Unfortunately, this will also reduce the outside radiators capacity to some degree as well, leading to a "running hot" situation. You are somewhat in a "no win" situation as these cars were never designed to run a Tip without the center radiator…….
  25. JFP in PA
    If you are pulling the IMS bearing, the shaft is typically full of oil and it will drain all over the place if you do not have a catch pan handy. In any case, I would strongly suggest changing the oil and filter when you are done with this project............
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