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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. That looks like it may be the coolant tank overflow.
  2. The internal gears use a very heavy grease due to the temperature they see and are not good candidates for the Teflon spray lube, if anything I would use silicone-based brake grease is they need to be re-lubed as the brake grease is also for high temp applications. The Dupont product is only to be used on the shaft and internally on the gear of the Bendix shaft, I just checked Wal-Mart, and they are listing the Dupont product in stock with one day delivery locally, so you might want to look at other sources. As I am not familiar with the other products, I can't really recommend them.
  3. Welcome to RennTech We are going to need photos.
  4. Pelican = unreasonable prices and dismal service Uro = Unreliable quality
  5. We have cleaned and re-lubed a lot of them over the years and most went on to serve for many more years before the starter needed to be replaced. This problem happens because the drive picks up debris from both the clutch and environment over time. To clean the drive, use common brake cleaner, and once dry, spray the shaft with DuPont dry Teflon spray (Lowes and Amazon carry it) while moving the starter gear back and forth. The advantage of using this type of lubricant is that it does not attract dirt and moisture like common greases do. To facilitate this, the starter has to be removed from the engine, so the question as to fix it or replace it is purely a personal choice. As a shop owner, I don't like to replace parts unless it is absolutely necessary, maintenance is always preferable and cheaper in the long run.😉
  6. Sounds like the Bendix drive on the starter is not retracting properly when you release the key. This is a common problem and can usually be fixed by cleaning the drive and relubricating it.
  7. Welcome to RennTech LN Engineering has the most useful information on how to tell the bearings apart, which is by looking at the two flange types: The flange on the left is shallow, indicating a dual row bearing, the flange on the right is the deep style, indicating a single row. Yours looks like the left style, indicating it is a dual row. The number on the flange is meaningless.
  8. Boneyard, from a wrecked car. Do an online search, there are firms that specialize in Porsches.
  9. First of all, welcome to RennTech The IMS failure issue is both well known and widely discussed on just about any Internet forum involving Porsches, so a quick Google search should fill in any blank spots on the subject for you; and there are commercially available retrofits for the IMS to address this exact issue. Realistically, probably the best option for you is to source a used engine rather than rebuild the one you have. As you have discovered, just a simple refresh of an engine with no damage is a wallet thinning activity. Good luck.
  10. You need to tell us your year and model of the vehicle as they are different. Assuming you are speaking about the 2003 in your records, you should be reading around 5 inches of water or less at the oil cap when fully warmed up. Note that is inches of water, not mercury. If it is higher than that, your AOS is probably on its way out.
  11. If the dealer said your VIN is clear of recalls, I would go with that. They have access to the car's history, and Carfax is not known for its accuracy on this issue.
  12. Welcome to RennTech , and thank you for contributing 👍 Did you mean Durametric? That is a diagnostic scan tool, not a "programmer".
  13. That attached document came up "dirty" during a virus scan when downloading.
  14. Recalls are also VIN specific, so general online data can be misleading. As Loren noted, check with the dealer.
  15. You can also check the motor for shorts while it is unplugged.
  16. Could be; I would check the system harness (both ends disconnected) for a short to ground before replacing the motor. 😉
  17. Welcome to RennTech Does the spoiler only blow the fuse when you hit the manual switch, or does it also do it when it goes up at speed?
  18. Several years ago, Porsche released a warm idle low oil pressure update for the M96/97 engine oil pump that consists of an upgraded spring and piston to address this type of issue. Cheap and easy to install (Piston: 997.107.125.01 ($ 5.00) Spring: 996.107.127.53 ($10.00) Gasket: 996.107.123.50 ($ 2.00) :
  19. Welcome to RennTech I'm not really sure what you are asking, could you provide more detail?
  20. Then I would still suggest checking the air/fuel ratios at the time the problem occurs.
  21. One of the primary cold vs. warm differences on these engines is the air/fuel ration. When it first starts, the mixture is richened (open loop) to help it run well, and it then leans out (closed loop) when it warms up. If you had a small vacuum leak in the intake system, the cold enrichment of the mixture could be enough to let the car run smoothly; but when it goes closed loop, the mixture is too lean, causing random misfires. You can determine this by monitoring the cold air/fuel ratio vs the warm ratio; and if it is a vacuum leak, find it by smoke testing the system. Good luck; this type of problem requires time, intuition, and focused diagnostics.
  22. You shouldn't have to remove it, just open it and get the stuff inside out of the way. You can see the four bolt heads in question above the tire it this photo:
  23. Welcome to RennTech To remove the rear struts, there are 4 long bolts under the spare tire cover in the trunk area (different from 955/957). The rear struts are quite easy to remove, but installation can prove difficult without a second person helping. Good luck.
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