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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. I would still have the car checked to see if the PDK has the latest software. Most of these issues seem to be related to that.
  2. Welcome to RennTech While I seriously doubt you actually have a 1985 Boxster with a PDK, similar complaints have been addressed by reprogramming the PDK, which would require the factory PIWIS system to accomplish.
  3. What were you doing the the PST II before this happened?
  4. It should be throwing a code, what is it?
  5. Five chain motors have a problem with the small pads between the cams, which is a well known problem: If you had a solenoid issue, the car would code for it, besides which if you go in to do the pads, you could change out the solenoid then if you wanted.
  6. Welcome to RennTech You are not very far out of spec, so I need to ask if you drove the car for at least 20 min. to completely warm everything up before taking the readings? It is very easy to get inaccurate and misleading readings by not properly warming up the engine before doing so. You are going to need the cam retaining tools to hold the cams while removing the cam cover. I would also suggest you search out the several DIY write ups on this topic, and familiarize yourself thoroughly before starting. It can be done with the engine in, but is often quicker with it out. Good luck.
  7. I've never seen a tool that would fit through the center bolt opening and grab the bearing by the outer race to prevent loading the bearings and cage assemblies; I don't think such a thing exists. Every tool grabs the inner race, which is the problem.
  8. The moment you employ a slide hammer on that bolt, the retrofit bearing is trash. One of the major issues early on with retrofits were with people trying to extract (read pull on the center bolt) that had cocked or not installed correctly. Because the center bolt pulls ONLY on the center race, doing so twits the ball bearing cages, damaging them and the races, and often even damaging the ball bearings themselves. The result was typically premature failure of the bearing assembly after it was reinstalled. If you visit LN Engineering's website (LN in conjunction with Jake Raby of Flatsix Innovations developed the concept of IMS bearing retrofits and invented to tooling to do it, and have the largest base of successful installations, some 25,000+), they specifically state that any bearing subjected to pulling on the center bolt should be discarded and replaced rather than reused due to the high probability of subsequent premature failures.
  9. Unfortunately, I know nothing about that brand retrofit, as they are not available in North America. Perhaps someone in Europe can chime in.......
  10. Unless you have a leak, leave them alone. Job to replace them is a bear.
  11. OK, first of all, either twisting wires together and wrapping them with tape, or using wire nuts is totally unacceptable for automotive applications. Both are pathways to shorts and even fires. Wires should be reconnected with crimp connectors at a minimum, with soldering them and then using heat shrink tubing to cover the soldered joints the actual preferred method. Most likely, in the process of doing this swap, you disturbed something, but exactly what is hard to say, particularly as the previous owner used the twisted wire and tape wrap method of connecting things. It is entirely possible that you may have pulled another such "MacGyver" like repair loose that is not related to the radio swap. Probably the best approach at this juncture is to get the vehicle scanned with a Porsche specific scan tool to see what the various communication modules are doing. Good luck with this one.
  12. I personally don't see how you are going to complete this without getting under at least the rear of the car.
  13. The obviously is dependent upon the condition of the car and how it is equipped, but $3-5 K for a decent roller is not uncommon.
  14. Before doing anything, you need to confirm what is actually wrong (e.g.: Bore scoping/compression testing/leak down testing cylinders 2 and 5, the ones the commonly D chunk, pressure testing the cooling system to verify you have a leak, dropping the oil and looking for presence of coolant,. etc.). If you have then confirmed the 2.5 is toast, you can sell the car as a "roller" for someone to undertake as a project (late model Porsche's with dead engines still have substantial value). Scrapping the car without confirming the engine is gone would be both foolish and a financial loser as a replacement engine can be sourced from a wreck for a few thousand dollars.
  15. A Porsche specific scan tool should see something during crank over. Removing the cam plugs will give you an approximation of the cam positions, but there are no marks, only the slots the cam bollocking tool fits into, which should be exactly vertical when the engine is at TDC:
  16. I would be checking the output readings (cam angles and deviation values) from the sensor to see what it is telling the DME.
  17. Welcome to RennTech Porsche does not sell a lot of the Tip parts, preferring to sell you a remaned transmission. Thankfully, most of the bits used in the Porsche variant are also found in VW and Audis.
  18. Sure, but what about the wire that carries the signal from the sensor to the DME, which is reading a strange value?
  19. Not unusual, it is located near the power steering pump reservoir, and the dust can collect vapor from the pump, which can get quite hot when running.
  20. That’s how I thought the system worked, without a separate switch or control system. If the air bags deployed, that needs to be corrected before the DME will allow the pump to run. P1397 code is for an “implausible signal” from the sensor, which may be a wiring issue.
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