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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Dump the fuel and all vital fluids and start over. Probably will need a battery as well, and I would check the tires for signs of aging.
  2. Simple: It may not solve your problem. You need to find out where the fuel pressure is venting, say at an injector, and fix it before it causes more problems, like scored cylinders. Simply adding a check valve is a band aid; find the real problem and fix it.
  3. No. The vehicle would need to have the wiring harness for the module, and then be coded with a PIWIS to accept it before it would work. Can be done, but is rather expensive, which is why people go to the aftermarket systems.
  4. Usually, yes. A metal impeller will do unfixable damage to the engine cases, resulting in overheating issues that cannot be fixed, as well as filling the entire cooling system with fine metal dust that is a pain to get out.
  5. I would be smoke testing the system before dropping the tank with the code you have. If you take the time or pay someone to replace a part that is not the actual issue, and before confirming the actual fault, you are going to feel pretty dumb, and we don’t want that happening ?
  6. Rusting trim is usually not a warranty issue unless the dealer wants to cover it under goodwill.
  7. Good call on checking the code by DBJoe996; the code you are seeing is for a gross tank ventilation leak, usually caused by a bad gas cap, detached or leaking vent hose on the EVAP canister or similar hose. It is not for that valve which would be a different code. Start by looking at the seal on your gas cap and looking at the hoses for the EVAP system, which do not require dropping the fuel tank.
  8. Porsche unfortunately does not sell a lot of internal components for the rack and a new one retails north of $2700: And there never was a manual rack for this car.
  9. The only one that I am familiar with is from the factory service manuals, but that cannot be reproduced here as it is copyrighted intellectual property.
  10. Problem is pretty straight forward, the center latch on the convertible top trips a microswitch when latched, allowing the windows to finish their path upwards into their seals for a weather tight configuration. When the latch is released prior to putting the top down, the windows drop several inches in order to let the top cycle into its down position. But now the windows have no signal as the top is retracted, which means when the hard top is put on, or if the driver wanted the windows all the way up with the top down, this would leave the side windows down several inches. Add the cheap red clip, the windows get the signal to go into the full up position, where they remain until the inside or outside door handle is pulled, retracting them slightly to allow them to clear the top seals (as if a top is in place). Again, a simple solution to an otherwise complicated problem.....
  11. Has to do with the hard top option; when the hard top is in place, nothing is pushing down the microswitch, hence the red clip so the windows go all the way up with the hard top on. Simple fix for a complicated problem...……..
  12. Yes, we are talking about the front diff, as it sits under the fuel tank.. How hard is obviously related to how well you are equipped and your mechanical expertise.
  13. Item #17 in diagram: On 4 wheel drive cars, the front axle may be in the way.
  14. I would put a mechanical pressure gauge on it before doing anything else; you need to know what the actual pressure is before doing anything else.
  15. Anyone could have hooked up anything to this circuit; people do the damnedest things to electrical systems. Without looking at it, it is impossible to know.
  16. Welcome to RennTech For a first timer. I would recommend disconnecting the battery.
  17. Take the system up to at least 18 PISG, that is where it normally runs, so if anything is gong to fail at that pressure, might as well be in the shop.
  18. Welcome to RennTech The windows are operating as designed. To make them go all the way up, the microswitch above the rear view mirror needs to be depressed and held. Porsche made a cheap plastic clip for this purpose, which your dealer can get for you.
  19. Welcome to RennTech Start by posting in the correct forum thread; Lost Radio Code - post your request here
  20. Basically, yes. Something is pulling a drain on the system somewhere between the fuse block and the spoiler, trick now is finding it.
  21. OK, D7 has been used for hazard warning lights and/or the spoiler, but at some point someone may have cut into it to add something. In general, the spoiler or hazards should not be drawing current when not in operation, as you showed when you disconnected the plugs. You need to trace the circuit and look further.
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