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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. You should be able to activate the solenoids one at a time with the Durametric, which should alter the engine's running characteristics. You should also be able to check the real time data section before and after activation and see the cam position changes. The second solenoid on each bank is for the valve lift controls. And, if you are so concerned about confirming the solenoid activations, you can by-pass the car's control system and use a 9V battery and a couple of pieces of scrap wire in place of the harness connection to try and force the activation while the car is running, or better yet, use a tool like a Power Probe to do the same thing. It would also be very unusual for both banks' soleniods to fail at the same time. As they share a common trigger signal, that could be a sign of a wiring issue like a voltage drop (weak signal), short to ground in the harness, or high resistance on the trigger wire.
  2. If attempting to activate it with the Durametric system does nothing, and the electrical connections to the unit are sound, the solenoid has to be bad.
  3. P0011 Position of Camshaft in Relation to Crankshaft, Bank 1 – Below Limit Diagnosis conditions • Idle speed • Reference mark recognized • Engine speed between 600 rpm and 1200 rpm. • Engine temperature greater than 40 °C • No fault in camshaft position sensors • Reference mark OK • No fault in camshaft adjustment • No fault in engine temperature • No fault in camshaft adjustment output stage Possible fault cause ◆ Allocation of camshaft to inlet camshaft incorrect Affected terminals Diagnosis/Troubleshooting Note! • This fault is stored if the engine was disassembled and the allocation of the camshaft to the inlet camshaft was incorrectly set.
  4. Test light or multimeter would work but start by checking for blown fuses. If memory serves, fuse B8 should be one that controls the DME
  5. It sounds like the timing is OK. Have you checked to see if the coil packs are getting power after you pinched the wires?
  6. There have been some video clips posted where the person uses a 9V battery as power source to test them out of the engine, but I have no experience with this type of test; if the unit does not assume an active position when energized in the engine, it has a problem.
  7. If the engine isn't changing when the solenoids are activated, nothing is changing because the cam angle is not moving; the solenoids are not assuming an active position when energized.
  8. Did you check your cam timing after getting all back together?
  9. No, it means you have power on the circuit, but it doesn't mean the solenoids are functional.
  10. The oil pump is mechanically driven by the engine, you cannot "turn it on", the engine has to turn over to develop oil pressure. That said, you can pull the fuel pump fuse or relay and spin the engine over until it gets oil pressure, then reinstall the fuse or relay and you are ready to go. And yes, it is worthwhile to do,
  11. They may be the result of a DME "tune", common aftermarket tune factors are more timing and more boost.
  12. I think he is referring to ignition timing as "ignition angle".
  13. OK, here goes: It is easiest if the car is running. Yes on the pin to pin tests. P0140: Interruption of signal on O2 sensor after the main cat on bank #1. Diagnostics are to check the continuity of the signal wires back to the DME terminal #4 at the sensor to terminal 77 at the DME; terminal 3 at the sensor to terminal to terminal 46 at the DME. Also check both wires for potential short to ground. P0160 is the same tests on the other bank sensor. P1121 is for low heating circuit current on the sensor ahead of the cat on bank #2, again, a possible interruption or short to ground of the circuit. It is also useful to check ALL of the O2 sensors for normal voltage curve function; the sensor behind the main cat should be drawing a fairly straight voltage curve over time, while the one ahead of the cat on the same bank should be fluctuating voltage in a sine wave fashion: I my experience, it is very odd to have multiple O2 sensors fail all at the same time; usually this is a harness problem.
  14. Not necessarily, you would have to catch it in real time to see any difference. And, as all the diagnostic tests are electrical in nature, it would be worthwhile running them to make sure you do not have a simple wiring fault.
  15. P1531 indicates a problem with the cam adjuster on bank #1, indicating that it is not assuming the active position. Possible causes: Open circuit on triggering wire Open circuit on B+ supply wire Faulty actuator Diagnosis procedures: Check B+ power supply wire for voltage, repair wire if necessary Check trigger wire for continuity, repair wire if necessary If both are OK, replace actuator
  16. I would suggest you scan the car with a diagnostic tool that can read what coolant temp the DME is seeing, if it is not seeing any temp, you have a wiring or sensor issue. If the tool sees temp at the DME, the issue is the harness between the sensor and the dash, or the display itself.
  17. Welcome to RennTech The plastic gear set in these top's mechanism are a well-known failure point, I'd start there.
  18. Just tried it, may have been removed by the original poster....................
  19. That is definitely not "opportunity knocking". To replace the pinion bearing, the entire gear "tree" has to be disassembled, and some special tooling is involved as well (surprise, surprise). Another reason why for most, this is not a DIY project, but usually farmed out to one of the specialty gearbox shops.
  20. And just as a by-the-by, that pinion bearing is a $500 item at retail 😮
  21. Not necessarily. The other thing you need to consider is having to do it all over again if you guess wrong on which bearing it is, which is why most shops replace ALL the bearings when there is a problem.
  22. And just as an observation: Noises when loading or unloading the drive line are rarely related to the side carrier bearings; the more likely suspect is the pinion bearings......
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