Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

JFP in PA

Moderators
  • Content Count

    7,740
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    105

Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Not even remotely correct in this world. But I would agree that Porsche's A40 spec is irrelevant as it is a marketing tool, not a lubricant specification. If you want real specs, consider products that meet or exceed ACEA A3/B3/B4, which are real, technically based and widely accepted performance standards.
  2. A "breather" is simply and atmospheric vent, not unlike an open window. The vacuum signal "throttling" done by the AOS is much like the thermostat in your home: It keeps the environment in the sump at a controlled level. If there were no vacuum level, the low tension rings would not seal, pressure would build up, and engine oil seals would blow out. Too high a vacuum signal and the intake starts inhaling oil as Jake showed in his video and the engine kills itself. The AOS vacuum throttling function keeps the sump "just right". 😉 That part in the diagram marked "breather" is act
  3. On the track, it is not uncommon to see one of these engines blow some oil smoke. Sometimes this may only happen in certain corners, and not in others. Problem stems from too much oil being retained in the upper engine area (read cam covers), where it cannot drain down fast enough through the M96's oil scavenging system, and the AOS becomes overwhelmed. This is one of the reasons Porsche developed the X51 package, which uses a "northwest passage" extra scavenging system to get the oil back down where it belongs. One trick a lot of track rats learn is to drop the oil level in th
  4. Welcome to RennTech Normally, oil films on the inside of the intake system is a sign the AOS is on its way out.
  5. A lot of people and shops simply update the cars to the later setup, which is totally bolt in, or update to aftermarket bars and mounts that are adjustable for better handling.
  6. That is not going to be easy, most people use a torch to heat the aluminum section where the tapered pin inserts, then wack it out with a hammer when the aluminum is hot. Unfortunately, that often snaps off the tapered pin or destroys the bar link itself, which is the reason it is common to see 74-77 911's with no rear sway bars.
  7. That ball and socket end link is a press in item: Porsche stopped using this design in 1977 because it is such a pain to seal with and move to a more "wrench friendly" mounting system in 1978, which is a simple bolt in swap for your car.
  8. You CAN Bus system is how various systems communicate with each other. Sometimes the individual modules lose contact and need to be reset to work properly, which again requires a Porsche specific diagnostic tool. While there are are some aftermarket diagnostic tools that can "see" a fault, like yours they typically cannot communicate and reset the system. This is the unfortunate state of automotive diagnostics, the OEM's are required by law to allow some systems to be accessed by third party diagnostics tools, but many component's are "walled off" and require very specific tools to work wit
  9. That is because you need to have access to a Porsche specific scan tool like the PIWIS Porsche factory tool; a "global" European scan tool won't be able to access this system, and won't see anything wrong. Some independents have this tool, all dealers have them.
  10. As that engine is a VW variant, a VW shop with the VagCom should also be able to clear it.
  11. I do not believe that the Durametric software supports this function, but you can check with them directly on that. You may need to have a dealer do a code clear with the PIWIS.
  12. Reductant Consumption is the Diesel Exhaust Fluid (DEF) that is used to assist in converting leftover exhaust particles to harmless gases. Are you sure your DEF tank isn't empty?
  13. Then using the basic rule to always go back to the last thing you worked on, the intake plenum.
  14. I would check to make sure you reconnected the coil packs, both completely plugging them in, and not having crossed any.
  15. The correct filter dimensions are 113 MM height, 65 MM outside diameter, 24 MM inside diameter. If the filter they sent you does not match these, do not use it.
  16. It sounds like something is not connected in the door you worked on, which can disable the remote. I would start with checking what you took apart.
  17. You should be running the car one or two bars below the full mark on the electronic display. I would also seriously consider replacing the AOS unit with a new factory unit, they are known for not liking liquid oil in the diaphragm area of the AOS system. I also am not aware of any atmospheric "vent" in the AOS, so check to make sure something is not connected properly.
  18. Glad it straightened out and passed. As I said above, I have seen some of the early cars go some distance before coming around, but you now officially hold the mileage record for this, so congratulations 🙃
  19. Just follow the brown wires. I would start by checking the ground terminal inside the light and see if it has continuity to ground using a multimeter.
  20. Most common problem for this is poor or non existent grounds (usually a brown wire).
  21. Some of the early cars had a real problem getting the IM Readiness test "not ready" status to change without resorting to the PIWIS, even after all the necessary repairs have been completed. I have personally seen cars go more that 200 miles of daily drive cycles before the system switched to "ready", but I have never seen or heard for one going 2,400 miles. I would have to agree with Loren on this one; something is still not right. If the O2 sensor ahead of the cats goes to a straight line zero, or near zero voltage while the SAI pump is running, the system is functional.
  22. Jake's company is Flat Six Innovations, and has done all of the development work for M96/97 component's for LN Engineering , which is owned by Charles Navarro. Jake does complete engine rebuilds, from mild to wild, and only sells educational materials such as the DVD mentioned, as well as the only existing complete engine torque spec manuals in print, but Flat Six no longer sells any hardware, only complete engines. LN manufactures and sells all the hardware (Nickies cylinder liners, IMS retrofits, piston sets, etc.), and also sells Jakes torque manuals which are excellent reference sources.
  23. There are just too many things that could be wrong as you really do not know what happened to it during its tenure in the automotive class, or before it even got there, anyone of which could reduce it to a boat anchor in one Hell of a hurry. Always better safe than sorry. Good luck with your project.
  24. You are in the correct forum. Before putting an engine that has been used in class for years, I would be prone to pull it apart to make sure everything is there and no one has dropped a screw or nut into the internals. An engine that has been dormant that long may also have corrosion built up on the crank journals from sitting.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.