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JFP in PA
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Everything posted by JFP in PA
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It means the Vario Cam is working.
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It's is used at the assembly line/factory, not used by PIWIS or anything, has a data line from the DME only though that can carry the same info from DME, but no other data lines included in it like the PIWIS/OBDII connector.
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There are several locations in this vehicle, this video may be of help: Cayenne fuse and relay locations
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A good scan with the PIWIS will look at everything electronically, otherwise the usual maintenance suspects (oil, air and oil filters, brake fluid flush, etc.).
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Welcome to RennTech Code should be an O2 sensor problem, you should get the car scanned with a Porsche specific scan tool like the PIWIS system to get additional information as there are multiple sensors.
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996TT, starting up after five years sitting - what to do?
JFP in PA replied to nmlss2006's topic in 996 TT, 996 TT S, 996 GT2
You can pump the gas out of the tank with an external pump, but the problem with seeing inside the tank is it is a split "saddle " style tank, which will be a bear to get a camera to see all of the nooks and crannies. Drain it, flush it with some fresh fuel, and you should be good to go. Just add a large bottle of Techron to the new gas, along with a dose of Stabil. -
996TT, starting up after five years sitting - what to do?
JFP in PA replied to nmlss2006's topic in 996 TT, 996 TT S, 996 GT2
Plan on draining and replacing EVERY fluid in the car (oil, coolant, power steering fluid, brake fluid, gas, etc.) and replace the battery. Once that is done, pull the fuel pump fuse or relay and wind the engine into oil pressure. Reconnect the fuel pump and see if it will start. -
You should see one line on the graph suddenly jump to a different value when the Vario Cam goes active; if it doesn't change, it isn't functioning.
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Photo might help.................
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Select "Actual Value for Cam", rev the engine past 2,500, it should change value.
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Cam 1 & 2 are banks 1 & 2. The VarioCam system is a pretty simple on/off setup. The exhaust cam position is fixed relative to the crank, and the intake cam position moves a fixed 24 degrees relative to the exhaust cam.
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Durametric and PIWIS can both show that graphically as "Actual cam angle".
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Porblem with aftermarket reflashes is that you never know what the system is writing to the DME; if it wrote something extraneous to the cluster for example, which might not be over written or replaced during a factory reflash, leaving something to trip the checksum values. Over the years, we have seen many horror stories about this kind of thing which sometimes ended up replacing the DME, which is an extremely expensive proposition.
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Two points; yes, if something was wrong the car should code. Second, if the Vario Cam is not functioning, the car is giving up a lot of performance. And while some have called the Durametric system "glitchy", it is still the best tool out there short of a PIWIS system, and if it says the cams are not switching position with RPM's, I would tend to believe it.
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Porsche, and a lot of states that check, use a simple "check sum" procedure to verify if a computer has altered software; any modifications as simple as changing the ignition timing would alter that summation value, even if those modifications were disabled, failing the car. Unfortunately, I really don't know how to circumvent this problem.
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AGM's tend to be longer lived and more forgiving than flooded cell batteries.
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NONE, ZERO, NADA; THEY ARE INSTALLED CLEAN AND DRY................... If you sealed or glued in the green plugs, they wouldn't act as safety's and pop out when the sump went under pressure, then either your front or rear main seal would pop out instead. And while I don't know about you, I'd much rather have to replace the green plugs rather than the main crank seals, but that's just my preference..................😉
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Hard to say, as I have never tried it. But even if nothing unexpected mechanically happens, the car will be running way below its potential as the Vario Cam adds significant performance to the engine; so, running it this way is much like a boxer stepping into the ring with one hand tied behind their back. Personally, I see no real reason to even attempt it as I cannot see what you are going to learn from the experience......
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Common phenomenon.
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ALL aftermarket AOS units are garbage, period. We have never seen one that was any good.
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Welcome to RennTech Cam deviation is the difference from ideal between the crank position and the cams relative positions. The specs for these engines are +/- 6 degrees. Excessive "slop" in this system can come from multiple sources: The chains, the wear pads (particularly the small ones on the five chain engines), and the hydraulic tensioners, all of which are subject to wear/stretching. Unfortunately, it is often very difficult to isolate the specific component causing the problem, resulting in the replacement of everything.
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The four plugs are there for using cam holding tools when removing the cam covers, they form both an oil and vacuum seal. The AOS supplies a controlled vacuum source (`5 inches of water) that evacuates the oil sump, allowing the low-tension piston rings to proper seal; if the AOS fails, the sump can develop considerable pressure, which will pop out these plugs, which use a simple friction seal. And before you ask, you should NEVER use any type of sealant on them, they should just be inserted clean and dry as they are the "safety" to prevent the front and rear main crank seals from blowing out due to over pressure. And yes, if you blow one or more out, they will leak oil badly.
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Are you referring to the four half dollar sized green rubber plugs? If they blew out, you have a pressurized oil sump........
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Clean the engine off and watch to see where it is coming from; possibilities are almost endless................
