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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. On thing you are not considering is that the control module itself may be involved. If that is the case, you are going to need a sharp tech and access to the PIWIS system.
  2. Welcome to RennTech As noted above, Porsche, like may other OEM's, has restricted what repairs are permitted in the field with their SMG (read PDK) transmissions. Dealer techs are limited to a very short list of things to check, including software updates, before they resort to replacing the gearbox. And, like other brands, there is no plans for an exchange program where the vehicle owner gets anything more than a core value for the used gearbox because it would be impractical for Porsche or any other OEM to tear down and access the level damage to the components in a timely manner, so
  3. Consider the $600 "tuition"......................😉
  4. A belated welcome to RennTech While I hate to say this, you have just joined a lot of other people that discovered the exact same thing: Nearly every aftermarket exhaust system ever made for the 986 has droning issues. Perhaps even worse, before and after dyno sessions have repeatedly also shown that most of these system do not add any measurable level of performance, and some actually lose horse power. All they consistently do is make noise................
  5. No, but it very well could be the "speed gong" associated with the on board computer.
  6. Shouldn't be an issue if you use a good ball joint separation tool.
  7. All of the larger cables are susceptible to this problem. The longer the cable, like to the starter, the worse the problem because their length exacerbates the resistance issue, leading to larger voltage drops. The only real trick to checking each one with either a multimeter or Power Probe unit (Power Probes actually have a specific setting for checking voltage drops, plus the Power Probe's long leads back to the battery make the testing process easier).
  8. 👍Glad you got it sorted. This is exactly why we always suggest running voltage drop tests on the primary cables, they are a known issue with these cars and even Porsche released "new & improved" cables to try and address the issue.
  9. Welcome to RennTech It came from the factory without that bolt. Adding a new one is fine, but not necessary.
  10. The bulb chart for the Cayenne list the fog as an H11. What is the exact year and model of your car?
  11. Welcome to RennTech I think you need to check Amazon again: H11 LED bulbs
  12. A long time ago, someone a lot brighter than me commented, "Speed cost money; how fast do you want to go?" 😉
  13. First of all, LN Engineering's IMS Solution is a LOT more than just an oil feed line; the bearing insert is a solid bearing (no moving parts) with annular oil passages just like the almighty Mezger turbo engines used, the IMS shaft is plugged to prevent oil accumulation and the balance problems associated by running the shaft full of oil, the replacement rear IMS flange is coated with a Diamond like coating for strength and longevity, and the oil feed is sourced at the oil filter to get clean, cool oil rather than where some others have sourced it. Perhaps one of the biggest advantages of the
  14. That is the steering angle sensor, which contains the clock spring on your car. You need to also be aware the code you have indicates you may have a harness short, which replacing the steering angle sensor may not correct. More diagnostics are required, and if the steering angle sensor is the issue, the new one will need to be calibrated after installation.
  15. Welcome to RennTech Sorry, but the clock spring is not the issue, it is the steering angle sensor: P4420 Possible fault causes - Short circuit to B+ in wiring harness - Short circuit to ground in wiring harness - Short circuit between the signal and ground lines of the rate of turn sensor - Open circuit in electric circuit - PSM(TC/ABS) control unit faulty NOTE: Calibration of the steering angle sensor must be performed on a measuring platform. The steering angle sensor must be calibrated after work has been carried out on the running gear in the area o
  16. These switches are a common electrical fault source in these cars; fortunately they are not expensive and are a common DIY project.
  17. No, it is located on the fuel rail and is a mechanical device. The ignition switch is a cheap electrical part of the key assembly that requires no programing to replace. It is a pain to access, but controls ALL electrical functions in the car: A DIY how to here: How to change 996 ignition switch electrical section Be sure to buy the factory part, aftermarket versions are notoriously bad..............
  18. Welcome to RennTech Have you checked the actual fuel pressure? You also have not mentioned the fuel filter or the fuel pressure regulator, both of which could be part of the equation. I would also be looking at the ignition switch electrical section, a known weak point that causes all sorts of electrical issues when it goes bad. Good luck.
  19. Welcome to RennTech ALL Porsche's use this style bolt, and they are available in longer lengths.
  20. I would first check the one you have to make sure it is not blocked from air flow by debris.
  21. The Durametric will clear it; I have no experience with the other tool, so I cannot comment on it.
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