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seankrider

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About seankrider

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    Contributing Member

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    Male

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  • From
    El Dorado Hills, CA
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    '04 Cayenne Turbo
  • Former cars
    '04 Boxster

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  1. Wish I'd seen this a few weeks ago... great writeup. The a/c harness plug had me so baffled the first time I buttoned it all back up until I could lift it and figure out where that line ended up. That was harder than removing the valve cover! Any issues replacing the PCV tubing with heater hose? I'm very tempted to do this with may of those old brittle vent lines... they break every time and cost ~$100 each.
  2. best bet might be salvage yards, but those may not be in much better condition...
  3. How much labor involved in replacing the valve cover gasket...?
  4. Hey Pugs - how do you check the vacuum (re: the small line at the center of the firewall)? Do you mean inspect it for cracks, or actually pull a vacuum leak test? Thanks.
  5. What does this fix, replacing the worn bushing? Less engine wobble? Mine is probably just as bad, but I don't know what I would improve by fixing it...
  6. What are the symptoms or side-effects of a destroyed bushing like this?
  7. I just did mine while tackling several other fixes in the neighborhood, including the water pump thermostat. It can definitely be done with out touching the larger single aluminum pipe, so I assume you're talking about the three smaller aluminum pipes in one cast piece? It must be possible since the pipes are kinked for no good reason other than to allow access. But the access looks very difficult. I thought removing the bolts was a challenge even with pipes out of the way. A good alternative would be to remove the cover to the thermostat housing in the front, where the three metal pipes connect. Eight bolts, and disconnect the two rubber hoses to the radiator. Also one bolt on the little metal pipe that runs into the front of the thermostat housing, which is easier to remove if you disconnect the bracket holding it to the block near the oil dipstick. Then on the other end of the three coolant pipes, unfasten the top half of the black plastic housing and you can hinge the whole assembly upward and hang while you do the job. Probably 10 extra minutes of effort. If you go this route, you'll also want to replace the metal seal and plastic gasket on the thermostat housing (~$10). And be prepared to catch any coolant that leaks out when you pull the rubber hoses off the front. And while you're there, no better time to do the thermostat.
  8. There's a TSB in here about replacing the pipe and henn coupling. And when doing so, everyone gets a dump of oil. "By design" apparently. But... installing a catchcan is next for me.
  9. This one is pretty thorough: http://www.jackals-forge.com/lotus/cayenne/coil/coil.htm
  10. Absolutely brilliant! Wish I had thought of this a few years ago when I did mine - though I'm heading back in there this week for a different (?) leak... tempted to do the upgrade since it's all sitting right out in the open anyway. That big tee is a royal pain though. For anyone with a Turbo doing the coolant pipe fix to aluminum - you have to do those tees anyway. This mod is some serious insurance that you will never have to delve into that dark corner of the the nether-region ever again. Darrin - if you got your guy to source them and ship them out fast, you could make a lot of people happy. And maybe fund some other hobbies. Well done!!
  11. Hey Loren - count me in whenever this materializes. I'm always doing something crazy on my CTT it seems. Coolant pipes last year, did the cardanshaft (twice) this year, just changed all four rotors and pads last month, always doing oil it seems. Projects remaining: rear hatch shocks - probably this month; driver's side turbo hose/oil leak fix - sometime in the next few months; valve body/TCU, as soon as I get up the guts to tackle it; etc. Thanks, Sean
  12. Agree. It will absolutely happen to all of them. And it will of course be when you are furthest from home. Right after your AAA towing package expires. On the Friday night of a long weekend... Did the fix as a DIY, and it wasn't as bad as I thought. "4.5 hours" for a pro maybe, but I spent probably 12 hours over a weekend plus an extra evening or two. Pipes were easy - hardest part was extra "t" pipe hoses specific to Turbos, known to go bad. That and the crazy mess of vacuum lines and tubes specific to that model added a good 4 hours alone. My dealer wanted $3,200. Sunset shipped the parts for maybe $420. No-brainer to me. There is a great thread on RennList from which you can piece together the tips and tricks. Couple tools you need, couple Workshop Manauls you need to download. But if you can change your own oil, you can probably do this. But I will say this: the blaring Coolant Low message, that takes over the dash, was spot-on when it unloaded. And that coolant smell everywhere is hard to miss. Little chance for the engine to overheat, and I did look at the gauges. But if you did drive another 5 miles or somethign, might be very different. It's pretty catastrophic, and you know it when it happens. Slow down, pull over, turn it off, and call the tow truck. If nothing else: if yours haven't been replaced, order the parts now from Sunset so you'll have them ready. Even if you don't do it yourself, you can hand the box to the Indy and say have at it. Or give them to the dealer and you just saved $300 from his retail price.
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