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About seankrider

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  • From
    El Dorado Hills, CA
  • Porsche Club
  • Present cars
    '04 Cayenne Turbo
  • Future cars
  • Former cars
    '04 Boxster

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  1. Wish I'd seen this a few weeks ago... great writeup. The a/c harness plug had me so baffled the first time I buttoned it all back up until I could lift it and figure out where that line ended up. That was harder than removing the valve cover! Any issues replacing the PCV tubing with heater hose? I'm very tempted to do this with may of those old brittle vent lines... they break every time and cost ~$100 each.
  2. best bet might be salvage yards, but those may not be in much better condition...
  3. How much labor involved in replacing the valve cover gasket...?
  4. Hey Pugs - how do you check the vacuum (re: the small line at the center of the firewall)? Do you mean inspect it for cracks, or actually pull a vacuum leak test? Thanks.
  5. What does this fix, replacing the worn bushing? Less engine wobble? Mine is probably just as bad, but I don't know what I would improve by fixing it...
  6. What are the symptoms or side-effects of a destroyed bushing like this?
  7. I just did mine while tackling several other fixes in the neighborhood, including the water pump thermostat. It can definitely be done with out touching the larger single aluminum pipe, so I assume you're talking about the three smaller aluminum pipes in one cast piece? It must be possible since the pipes are kinked for no good reason other than to allow access. But the access looks very difficult. I thought removing the bolts was a challenge even with pipes out of the way. A good alternative would be to remove the cover to the thermostat housing in the front, where the three metal pipes
  8. There's a TSB in here about replacing the pipe and henn coupling. And when doing so, everyone gets a dump of oil. "By design" apparently. But... installing a catchcan is next for me.
  9. This one is pretty thorough: http://www.jackals-forge.com/lotus/cayenne/coil/coil.htm
  10. Absolutely brilliant! Wish I had thought of this a few years ago when I did mine - though I'm heading back in there this week for a different (?) leak... tempted to do the upgrade since it's all sitting right out in the open anyway. That big tee is a royal pain though. For anyone with a Turbo doing the coolant pipe fix to aluminum - you have to do those tees anyway. This mod is some serious insurance that you will never have to delve into that dark corner of the the nether-region ever again. Darrin - if you got your guy to source them and ship them out fast, you could make a lot of people
  11. Hey Loren - count me in whenever this materializes. I'm always doing something crazy on my CTT it seems. Coolant pipes last year, did the cardanshaft (twice) this year, just changed all four rotors and pads last month, always doing oil it seems. Projects remaining: rear hatch shocks - probably this month; driver's side turbo hose/oil leak fix - sometime in the next few months; valve body/TCU, as soon as I get up the guts to tackle it; etc. Thanks, Sean
  12. Agree. It will absolutely happen to all of them. And it will of course be when you are furthest from home. Right after your AAA towing package expires. On the Friday night of a long weekend... Did the fix as a DIY, and it wasn't as bad as I thought. "4.5 hours" for a pro maybe, but I spent probably 12 hours over a weekend plus an extra evening or two. Pipes were easy - hardest part was extra "t" pipe hoses specific to Turbos, known to go bad. That and the crazy mess of vacuum lines and tubes specific to that model added a good 4 hours alone. My dealer wanted $3,200. Sunset shippe
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