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kbrandsma

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Everything posted by kbrandsma

  1. kbrandsma
    I meant bolt #4 and it is at 8:00 o'clock, looking towards the front from the rear bumper. It is a 10mm Triplesquare standard. Go to AutoZone and buy the OEM brand. You will need to cut about a third of the end and use a crescent or open end wrench. Also the tranny jack I picked up at Harbor Freight for under $60 bucks. To hold the flywheel in place check this post I purchased a clutch alignment tool. I made my own RMS seal press. To see it click here. You are welcome to borrow both just pay shipping both ways. I used 2x6's and supported my motor during the process, had the car on jack stands and used my hydraulic lift to support the car at the rear lifting point whenever possible. I never trust the lift or jack stands alone and always looked for redundancy whenever possible.
  2. kbrandsma
    I replaced my AOS. Having the tranny out made it very accessible. While you have the tranny out you might as well change the transmission fluid. Also the bolt at 4:00 o'clock on the bell housing has a triple square head. Strip that and you are screwed. Ask me how I know!
  3. kbrandsma
    Yes, they can be replaced separately. However, once you remove the exhaust, axles, drop the tranny and get to everything, you should do what is reasonably necessary. That could mean the DMF as well. You really don't know until then. While I had everything apart, I also replaced my O2 sensors and my AOS figuring that 60K was a safe bet they needed replacing. Not that you need to drop the tranny to change the AOS, but it did make it very simple to do so.
  4. kbrandsma
    I have a 98, 2.5 liter, 5 speed Boxster and replaced the RMS two winters ago (Januuary 2008) with about 58K on the clock. When I had everything apart I replaced the clutch. The dual mass flywheel (DMF) was still in excellent shape and choose not to replace it. I figured it would make it another 60K. I think I would only bleed the clutch and wait until more definate signs appear. A new clutch is cheap $350 compared to labor ($1,500) and the DMF is another $900+. Good luck!
  5. kbrandsma
    Put the image on a CD and place in CD in CD drive
  6. kbrandsma
    Very good, thanks for posting!
  7. kbrandsma
    Did a clutch replacement last winter. I also replaced my RMS, IMS and AOS while I had everything apart. Here is a link HERE for more info and additional links. The hardest part for me was the 10 mm triple square tranny bell housing bolt. Good luck!
  8. kbrandsma
    +1 on Sumitomo HTR Z III. Just replaced my rears for the second time with them. Great price at Tire Rack $79.00 Fronts and $99.00 Rears for 17" plus shipping and installation. See them HERE
  9. kbrandsma
    Keep track of your frequency counters, it will increase each time there is a fault.
  10. kbrandsma
    Choose a lighted switch and rob power from another switch. Pretty straight forward and not hard to do.
  11. kbrandsma
    There is barely enough wiring to move the AC controls to the lower BIN. I added a double din Radio/CD/iPod/GPS to the top two Bins (Pioneer AVIC D-3) and moved the AC to the lower. You can add a cuby or 4 CD player to the remaining one. I am still looking for the perfect cup holder location. Good luck.
  12. kbrandsma
    Durametric can reset the airbag light. Check the code, then reset the light and if it comes back on you may have another problem.
  13. kbrandsma
    Possible motor mount?
  14. kbrandsma
    I have an AVIC D-3 with iPod integretion. I converted all my CD's to my iPod and placed my iPod in the lockable armrest storage in the center console. I have the 4 CD holder above AC controls (on bottom) to hold GPS Dvd and extra CD's when playing directly from a CD.
  15. kbrandsma
    Remove carpet from trunk and check under the trunk board for any coolant, if so you might have a faulty reservoir tank which is fairly common.
  16. kbrandsma
    +1 with Loren Dead Center for RMS and passenger side for AOS Bellows and/or oil fill tube.
  17. kbrandsma
    Check this B&M Short Shifter installation directions. It will provide detail information on how to break the console down. Good Luck! Click Here
  18. kbrandsma
    I have read here several times, Porsche tires should not be rotated.
  19. kbrandsma
    I replaced my RMS, IMS and clutch at 52K. Left the flywheel alone. Cost is $400 +. It looked in excellent shape. No oil from RMS leak, took a caliper and checked for wear. I figured I would catch it next time I did the clutch at 100Kor so.
  20. kbrandsma
    Depends what speakers you have. A 6x40 amp will power 6 speakers, 2 front, 2 door and 2 rears. 4x40 will power 4 speakers, 2 front and 2 doors. With a 4x60 you can add the rear speakers and power them off of the HU. What do you have? Want?
  21. kbrandsma
    Not sure there is a 20K service. It is usually 15K or 30K
  22. kbrandsma
    After several installs, I have done it a number of ways. You can walk it thru from the umbrella tray with a needle nose pliers. I like to put a 3 to 4 inch section of shrink wrap at the end of the wires. It provides a stiffer wire to push through. Getting it thru is a snap.
  23. kbrandsma
    You will need to remove the instrument cluster. There are only 2 torx screws holding it in place. One behind the four way flasher. The flasher just pulls straight off and the other behind the stock microphone circular grill. Take an upholstery pry bar and remove the grill. Use some small shop towels to place under the cluster as it will scratch your dash if you are not careful. Let me know if you need photos. The microphone when installed sounds like you are in a tunnel and you may have to experiment with some various material behind the mic like a piece of foam to get it sounding right.
  24. kbrandsma
    Couple of sources listed here. Boxster Services
  25. kbrandsma
    1schoir, I had a machinist build it from an old race bushing that was laying around his shop.
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