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stickshiftnz

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Everything posted by stickshiftnz

  1. "Side light" sounds like British terminology; if that is the case, the side light would be the front parking lamp.
  2. That can happen to automatic cars when parked at an incline. Try this: - Stop the car, keep foot on the brake. - Shift to Neutral, engage the hand brake, then release the brake pedal. The weight of the car is now borne by the hand brake. - Foot on the brake again (so the car doesn't buck), then shift to Park, ignition off. The weight of the car is not borne by the gearbox's Park gear, making it easier to shift out of Park. Getting stuck in Park on a slight incline is like on a manual gearbox when you can't get it out of gear and you need to push the car a little to ease the load
  3. A friend told me that if I ever fitted a towbar to a Boxster or any Porsche for that matter, he would come over and kill me with his bare hands :) Well, I understand his point, but in many places outside North America, for one, many of us only have car park space for one car (whether or not you could afford another vehicle). The odd few times that you need to carry something not necessarily heavy, but bulky, it's easy enough to hire a trailer off the gas station for NZ$20 (about US$13) than have to hire a van just to take home a Christmas tree, or the odd sheets of plywood. That towbar f
  4. I believe the logic behind having only one rear foglamp (some Opel/Vauxhall manuals refer to it, I think properly, as a "fog tail lamp"), is that in fog or very bad weather, the driver behind can tell the driver's side of the car he's following. From what I can remember, from a BMW 5-series manual in the '80s (English language, general export), in the Federal Republic of Germany, the rear foglamp is only to be used when visibility ahead falls below 50 metres (164 ft/55 yards) to reduce glare to the driver behind, and front foglamps if visibility falls below 100 metres (328 ft/110 yds). For
  5. For daily driver tyres, also take into account the noise. It is not so much of an issue in countries with smooth paving materials, but where coarse chip asphalt is used, like NZ, driving over these surfaces causes a drone inside a car. Over fair distances, it makes me drowsy or fatigued. Changed tyres on my Audi from Yokohamas (the car was a Japanese market vehicle imported second-hand into the country), to Dunlops, and immediately the drone was diminished.
  6. How is it a girly colour? I say, you buy what looks and feels good to you. Colour is very subjective, and to each his own. And also what the situation is, like here in NZ, the predominant car colour is silver, and since many new cars are leased or bought under business names, once finance is approved, they want a car available right then and there. They can't wait 3 months for a special order. So the importer brings in only cars which it knows will sell immediately -- silver, black, navy blue, maybe gray or the odd red, with black leather. For me, if I'm buying an expensive or otherwise spe
  7. One thing too, cleaning all the surfaces may take care of much of the cigarette smell, but you may want to have your air conditioning evaporator cleaned too, since the fins may hold some of the smell. There are shops which specialise in this, they hook up the machine to the recirculation source vent and run the apparatus with the airconditioning on.
  8. When I first saw the 997.2 in photos earlier on, I too had my doubts about that tail light design. But after having seen it in the flesh, and getting a Porsche brochure with photos at the correct angles, I must say I'm OK with it now. But it looks better from the rear in some colours than others. While the older tail lamps kind'a plant the units firmly onto the bumper base, on the new car, the lines from the sides of the rear window coming straight down and bending under the tail lights I think makes it look a little spunky. Looking at them from the rear, this is just my opinion but the red
  9. That's good, the item I read mentioned something about oil coming from the PCV system hitting the hot head and baking it on, and with fuel not coming in contact with it, is not able to clean it. If such is the case, then I suppose it's really a matter of diligent maintenance and checking/replacing the PCV valve or similar component periodically, if it's what keeps oil from getting in to start with. Re: the Mercedes 123 diesel (I assume all older diesel engines with mechanical low-pressure injection systems), would they have this PCV valve?
  10. It's widely accepted that when a basically all-new engine or component is introduced, there will be teething problems unforseen by the manufacturer until it's used in the real world. The new Direct Injection engines powering the 997-2 has gotten rid of the intermediate shaft, one of the problems which though hopefully not too common (no official figures released), is still a worry; that should eliminate one source of expensive grief. The DI engine of course will help improve economy and help comply with near-future emissions regulations (or else get legislated out of existence). However,
  11. Using the jump starter as a trickle charger will mean that the radio won't lose its coding. You keep the battery charged, and as the jump starter runs out of juice, just take it indoors and plug it into your home power outlet, ready for action again the next day.
  12. What about using one of those portable jump-start devices, hooked up to the cigar lighter as a surrogate battery? It should have enough juice to keep the car charged for two or so weeks, then while the car's battery is still fully charged, take the jump starter in and recharge it overnight, then put it into the car again the next morning? I've seen some of those jump starters on special here in NZ for as little as NZ$50 (about US$27).
  13. When the ignition is off, and you step on the brake pedal, do the lights come on normally? I was going to suggest there may be a grounding issue with one of the lights, but if all three of them turn on, it would be something centralised. If the car has some lighting system black box, you may wish to check that out.
  14. So does this mean that the latest direct-injection engines on the 997-2 and the incoming facelift 987 Boxster/Cayman could still have "catastrophic engine failure" even when the new engines do not have the intermediate shaft? Too bad there's no way to check or access the tensioner. So basically we can just hope and pray that the engines don't blow up in the meantime, and when time comes to get it overhauled, then strip it all the way to the tensioner. It makes me wonder then -- this IMS problem seems to be this mysterious disease that doesn't seem to have a logical or easily pinpointed ca
  15. I've got a JVC KD-SDH707 in my Galant, which I've had now for almost three years. Full aluminum front, Germanic look, bells and whistles including motorised face angle adjustment etc. I have read that JVCs were not very reliable, and kept my fingers crossed, simply because my unit was a top-line one a few years earlier, costing something like NZ$800 (US$464 at current rates), which I got "shop-soiled" for only NZ$200, complete with box and manual. I've been very happy with it, very flexible system. What I can perhaps say though is that my unit's build quality (even the feel of the buttons wh
  16. And expense/complication. I personally prefer normal halogens, because when something does go wrong, the ballast and associated components are yet more expensive components to fail. Adding to that, I used to think Xenons were cool until I had a few of them behind me. The self-levelling system (required by law on Xenon headlamps outside Nth America and Japan, in addition to headlamp washers) is too slow to react. I always need to flick my rear-view mirror to antiglare mode. They're probably fine on level, smooth, multi-lane highways, but on busy suburban hilly two-way roads, they're a nui
  17. Whoa....no intermediate shaft? Unless they've replaced that problem with another yet undiscovered and equally debilitating one, it looks like redemption is at hand! I haven't read much about the update, which usually focuses more on the PDK gearbox and the direct injection. Just from what I could quickly find, if it's got 40% less parts than the older engines, then hopefully that means better reliability. Also looks like if the engine is almost totally new, then perhaps the engineers thought that the ongoing problems could not be fixed by simply modifying the existing design. Perhaps this
  18. I think there's merit in it. I call it the "Mercedes 200 principle." (Americans haven't got a Merc 200, of course). Thinking in 1970s/80s terms, not everyone needs or wants a Merc 280E, especially those who live in Rome or London. But a car which seats 5 comfortably, not too small to be unsafe, not too large to be difficult to park, one put together well, dependable, and doors that thunk shut, with an adequate engine, and one which you could happily keep for a long time without feeling the need to upgrade when the new one comes. Enter the Mercedes 200. No autobahnsturmer, but even with manual
  19. While picking up my Galant from routine servicing at my mechanic (specialises in BMWs and Euros), we talked about MAF sensors. He said that as a rule they've been doing many of those, and said something to do with how the newer ones were designed which contributes to the failures. I thought to myself, great -- yet another engine item to add to the cost of motoring, even for those of us who care for our cars and don't trash them. I'm just starting to do some research on it. Will admit, I haven't searched this site for MAF-related incidents. I'd be keen to find out exactly WHAT (or what factor
  20. Therefore, do what is most pressing, if you can't have both. But keep a healthy interest in Porsches. Keep reading these forums and be aware of any developments. But go for your house deposit and student loan, you won't regret it. Porsche will be around. The time isn't right, but nothing stops you from standing behind a fence looking in.
  21. Lightfall, I'll post a reply similar to two others I've posted elsewhere in this blog. I'm aiming to get a Boxster someday, second hand, unless I win First Division Lotto (in which case it'll be Guards Red, Cocoa Top, Beige interior; or Meteor Gray, Metropol Blue top, Blue or Beige interior). Yes, all cars have their faults, they're far more complicated these days. But there's only a threshold of comfort you can be happy with. The periodically-repeating problem which is easy and reasonably cheap to fix, you can put up with. But the rare, and seriously (financially) debilitating problem is
  22. If you decided on creating a poll, there is one advantage for Porsche/s vs. other cars: limited variety of mechanical variants will give a more realistic statistical sampling. A B5 Audi A4, for instance, has something like 10 petrol/gasoline engine variants plus X number of manual and automatic gearboxes around the world. A 986 Boxster, however, has practically two engines (S and non-S), and two gearboxes (manual + automatic). So any problems logged that includes details as vehicle year, mileage when it happened (first/subsequently) can be easily compared. We just might learn something from
  23. I've been reading through these Porsche forums for just under a year now, as I was hoping to eventually buy a second-hand Boxster. Being a car freak and owning 5 used Audis in the past, I am well aware that all cars will have their faults or common problems. More often than not, after a few years, a model's common problems become apparent, and normally the cause for it is diagnosed, be it a faulty batch of parts, a shorter life span for a part than expected, or a repair/maintenance procedure which is not carried out properly. I'm aware that a few years after some car makers fitted 120K km
  24. With many (most?) cars these days, the compressor cuts off when accelerating (or if the engine thinks you are) often via a vacuum solenoid, so the compressor does not sap any power. When overtaking, you need all the juice you can get. Even more critical for small, low-powered cars, where you can really feel the difference.
  25. OK -- 9.8 L/100 km = 24.3 US MPG highway, and 18 - 30 L/100 km = 13 - 7.8 US MPG (yes, in L/100 km, lower figure is better) urban for Michael from Athens.
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