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mikefocke

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Everything posted by mikefocke

  1. I was in the same situation. I had looked in the local classifieds for the last 35 years but only at Porsches. I had bought 2 Mazda 626s, still have an '86 in the family. Excellent, reliable. But I really couldn't fit in the Miata..at least the earlier versions...too tall. I thought I wanted a 928, that is the car I was lusting after. Several extensive drives told me I didn't want a car designed in the '70s even if it still is a beautiful car. One 20 minute ride in a Boxster and I bought it. I was, at the time, not too worried about finances, and my experience over 2 years and 2 Boxsters has been that my unscheduled maintenance costs have averaged $7 per month. I bought a '99 base with around 24k miles and, when it got totaled, a '01 S with 42k miles. Neither was under Porsche warranty and I declined to buy an extended warranty on the second car even though it was available for $3k. At the same time, I'm aware that expensive things could go wrong and that even routine maintenance is more expensive ($60 in parts for an oil change). I live in the Washington DC area so I do get bad weather in the winter and I drive a CRV for those times. Otherwise, it is my daily driver. I commuted to work, to the grocery store (20 bags in the rear trunk and I have the front trunk still empty). I take trips that go non-stop around 250 miles. To help you in your decision, I would offer this link which will tell you about my ideas on buying a Boxster, model year differences, what to look for, etc.
  2. To see ehat they are selling for, I go to www.cars.com just because it has a good search, sort and display capability. I look for 99 Porsche Boxster cars with mileage between 40k and 60k. I see lots from $18 to 28k. I discount 5% in the spring to get to selling price. Your Tip could be a negative (not to me, I'm on my second). Your condition could be a plus. It is all in finding the right person who just has to have your car. http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/sellingaboxster
  3. My guess is to meet US DOT bumper crash results requirements. Is anyone going to care if you remove them? No but your insurance company could deny a claim unless you could put them back after you are hit. Speaking as one who took a $3-4K hit from the rear, the bumperettes saved my sheet metal and lights. That is right, the initial quote to fix with absolutely no sheet metal or lights damage was $3k and they found more after they opened the whole thing up. By then her insurance was paying so I have no idea what the final bill was. Just that it would have been lots more had I not had the bumperettes. Also protects your muffler tips.
  4. It fits. All 986 hardtops fit all models. All require spinlocks to be installed in the car. The top with ears will mount the early roof transport system only and likewise the later only the later RTS.
  5. The engine control computer lost all memory of what is normal and what it should do. It learns over the next 100 miles. So let it idle for a while, let it warm up, then see if it is at all driveable and drive it for a while. Things should improve. It'll be lumpy and crankey for a while, then slowly get better.
  6. One bar is NOT a quart.... The bars are about 1/5th of a quart ... consider that the 2 marks off to the left of the bars indicate max and min and the difference is 1.25 litres per my owner's manual page 76 and there are about 6 bars between those 2 marks. Since 1.25 litres = 1.32 quarts and dividing by 6 you get .22 quarts per bar. And, you should be down 1 bar from the top as the max line is between the top and second bar so there is no harm if the top bar in unlit. A fluctuation between on and off is probably attributable to the difference in the time you have allowed the oil to settle and how warm the engine oil was when you took the readings.
  7. My '01 S guage registers full by the time I climb back in.
  8. There was an ad for the ones I described on ebay yesterday. Different name but definitely the same ones as I recall the ad very well. The taper and the end and the roll over is what makes these special. That and the quality of the emblem.
  9. '99 long gone. My records show I paid $84 delivered but compared to Porsche parts, they were cheap and compared to other aftermarket sills I saw, they were far and above the classiest I had seen. Picture the black ones on the S only in stainless (beautiful on an AS car) and with a 1A" colored crest that looks in quality like the ones you see on the hood.
  10. 944nut@comcast.net can send you a door sill set with markings of your choice and it will be the correct size and bend. excellent quality. I got stainless with Porsche crest for my 99.. My black '01S door sills (plastic?) are 28" at their inside edge.
  11. At the right price, yes. I'd feel better if it had 4k a year and yearly changes. But have a good mechanic do a thorough Pre-Purchase Inspection (PPI) focusing on the internals of the engine (compression/leakdown). And in your negotiations over price, use the "I'm concerned that it doesn't have enough miles and oil changes which means every start was probably on dry bearings ... and that means more wear than if it was used every week. I just can't pay top dollar with that uncertainly .... so I'm only able to offer you ....???" and see what they say. I see 2000 S Boxsters going for $37k-22.5k
  12. Drain a quart of oil from the sump. Look at it. Normal? Abnormal? Put oil back in from the top into the tank. Report back and describe the condition of the oil. Clean look like oil? look like milk?.
  13. I've read elsewhere that aftermarket OBC readers can't access all the Porsche specific codes and thus are less useful than the ones the dealers posess. This is the subject of some legal activity since all the manufacturers are hiding the model specific codes. Lock-in. I have a 9135 but haven't had failures that could be detected (and not complaining).
  14. Sounds like you aren't going with the full Litronics kit from Porsche but an aftermarket kit that replaces just the bulbs and doesn't give the leveling, light dispersion and look of the P-car parts. There have been reports of lens burnout from these kits. I'd ask around a lot before I'd go that route.
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