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logray

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Everything posted by logray

  1. logray
    The head gaskets on these cars pretty much never fail, sorry about the bad news! Repairing a crack in the head is certainly do-able and can be done DIY for $2500-3000.
  2. logray
    Great work, yes the Napa copper Permatex 5920 is great stuff.
  3. logray
    I've never experienced this myself, so sorry I can't be much of a help other than to say you'll probably have to dismantle the spoiler to repair it. Some of the individual parts for the driving mechanism are not listed in the parts catalog, and Porsche wants you to replace the entire driving mechanism instead of just the bits an pieces (either because they cannot be replaced individually or that they simply don't sell them individually). http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/996-99-05/803-07.php Trouble is, Porsche wants over $1000 for it. You can find one used at a dismantler like dc auto for $425. http://dcauto.gotdns.com/search/index?target=996+512+109+05&searcher=&commit=Search Sometimes you can find some of the parts (or complete spoilers) available from other Porsche owners: http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/for-sale-ads-member-to-member-classifieds/652841-fs-996-rear-spoiler-parts.html http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/for-sale-ads-member-to-member-classifieds/623318-996-engine-lid-and-spoiler.html
  4. logray
    The intake should be leak free, clean, and free of any foreign contaminants. It is difficult to say if that is related to your P0420 code, likely if there were any foreign contaminants introduced into the engine you could have other codes or symptoms as well. It's difficult to say from your description of "line that runs from intake to the plenum", but if it is a very small hose, it could be for secondary air injection, which is used for emissions control at cold start-up. Having attempted some of these similar modifications myself, I personally would leave the car stock.
  5. logray
    I broke one while reinstalling my engine. I temporarily put it back together using a 1/4" hose repair kit from home depot. Then I bought two of the real thing, one to have as a spare. Porsche P/N 99610622652 About $5
  6. logray
    It could be his car does not have the on board computer enabled or 4th stalk for controls.
  7. logray
    Interesting. Did it go out on you all of a sudden, or was the MPG the only warning sign? (i.e. no apparent performance or running issues).
  8. logray
    I learned the hard way about the $400 oil change. Oooops. ;)
  9. logray
    Great work.
  10. logray
    IIRC there is also a colored dot on each plug, as well as on the socket. If not and if they are not a different shape, it should be easy enough to decipher the correct orientation using the wiring diagram.
  11. logray
    For the next oil change... Porsche actually has a very large list of recommended oils available for download here: http://www.renntech.org/forums/files/getdownload/1843-approved-oils-mar-2011pdf/ Which type of oil and viscosity is best though is somewhat of a religious debate.
  12. logray
    And you're certain she knows how to drive a manual? :)
  13. logray
    Nice work. I guess my only question is, why would you ever want to idle a GT3? :D :clapping:
  14. logray
    The Litronic option are much brighter and whiter than stock HID headlamps. And very expensive. More about HID here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High-intensity_discharge_lamp
  15. logray
    If the key is spinning freely, it certainly sounds like your ignition switch assembly needs to be replaced. Here is a link to the DIY:
  16. logray
    Nice work, I have a more complete list and will post it later on today.
  17. logray
    Does your amplifier not have an RCA L/R input? If not, I've never heard of such an adapter. If you need to splice, here is a link to the wiring diagram. The only wiring harnesses I've seen are for the head units themselves.
  18. logray
    Yes the oil cooler hose goes into the fitting on the side of the coolant expansion tank, near the top.
  19. logray
    I agree wvicary's post in that you likely have multiple problems. Ground the alarm wire next to the radio (should be multiple ground points nearby, radio frame, radio frame screw, dash frame).. Bypass the clutch switch (jumpering the leads). If still having issues, check the DIY sections here for ignition switch replacement, you can get one at a Napa auto parts for about $13.
  20. logray
    If what Loren says is correct, I had the same problem. Of course, check the battery and starter (and perhaps alternator). In my case it was the positive battery cable that goes from the starter to the alternator to positive jump point on the engine. The cable was very badly corroded.
  21. logray
    I like to add about 1 quart/liter less than called for and then allow the oil to drain completely into the sump. Then add until halfway mark on dispstick. Then start the car and run for a few minutes then stop, let it drain for at least 20 and then fill again until it is back to the halfway mark or just slightly above. Are you sure the filter housing is not cross threaded? And torqued to the right value? I think the torque spec is printed on the bottom of the filter housing. One time I installed the filter housing and it wasn't tightened down enough, resulting in an oil leak. I think I might have cross threaded it. All it took was removing the filter housing and reinstalling it carefully, making sure that I torqued it properly. If you don't have a filter wrench, I recommend you get one!
  22. logray
    Good work so far. The rear intake manifold bolt is reachable, I remember doing it with the engine in car, and only lowered the engine down about 1 inch (very slightly loosened engine mount bolts). I had already removed the alternator. I did not remove the coolant tank. Yes the alternator can be a bear to remove/install, but you can manhandle it with some carefully placed wood (to prevent metal damage as you pry) and a pry bar. Going in from the top and removing the intake manifold, the tip should not be different from a manual gbox, aside from perhaps a few extra coolant hoses in the way. If you are speaking about an AOS bolt though, I am not sure. I have read the AOS job can be a little more difficult with a tip.
  23. logray
    If you go in from the top, unless you drop the engine significantly (which requires disconnecting lots more stuff), you'll need to remove the alternator. There just isn't enough room to get to all the intake manifold bolts. Removing the alternator is not all that difficult, it is just a few bolts and nuts.
  24. logray
    Hello I haven't seen a write up or done this myself. Perhaps someone else has. Found this write up about how to remove the leather: And these diagrams might help: http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/996-99-05/817-00.php http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/996-99-05/817-10.php Hopefully someone will have a more helpful response!
  25. logray
    And the AT tells us that it has been rebuilt. The 67460 is just a sequence number. And the M96/03 tells us it is a 3.6L 996 engine as Loren pointed out several posts up.
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