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logray

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Everything posted by logray

  1. In my experience even without trying to over-tighten the well nuts tend to rotate on thier own, regardless of how much pressure is applied. I actually liked the idea so much I bought a set for my battery cover and have the same problem there. IMHO the problem is actually the flawed decision to use a well nut instead of something that is fixed to the body. I know I drummed up an old thread here but have been in this area of the car more than it's fair share in the past few months. Leading to a little frustration. Perhaps a visit to the friend with a TIG welder is in order.
  2. Sorry I should have been more specific in my original reply to your post and then perhaps we could have avoided all of this confusion. LOL. :-) The 986 (depending on year) uses DME 5.2.2, 7.2, or 7.8. All of which have different pinouts than the 7.8.1 DME (2005-2008) and/or SDI3 (2009+) system that is used in all 987 cars. So in other words you couldn't just "plug" his DME into your car and have it work without doing some modifications to your wiring harness. All to reset an airbag warning code? That being said it possible to "bench wire" his DME to your PIWIS or PST or Durametric out of the car and clear a code... but you need the pinouts so you can wire the power, ground, and k line successfully from a reliable 12v power supply. It would be easier to ship or loan him your computer so he can reset the light. Or perhaps seek a fellow renntech member who has a computer near him so they can take the 5 minutes to reset the light. I've also had simple work like this provided for FREE by a Porsche dealer. Yes, believe it or not. FREE.
  3. If the setup on the rears has a lot of negative camber and you drive them hard 10k is probably not that far off... 15 to 20k would be pushing it for a tire like this. I have (and love) the same tires and hope they last 15k.
  4. I for one would like to hope that there is a superior solution to preventing the well nut from twisting in place whilst fastening the knurled thumb screw. Perhaps some sort of adhesive, or possibly a more permanent nut affixed using gas tungsten arc welding.
  5. Even to just purchase a used or rebuilt engine from them?
  6. Was it leaking fuel? Awfully close to the fuel rail return or send line.
  7. The VIN, etc. doesn't matter much in the DME programming. When futzing around with this stuff I could change the country code, vin, color codes ,etc to whatever I wanted and none of that would affect whether the car would start or not. The important things that matter are: the map, the version of DME for the car, and that the immo and dme codes match what is in the immobilizer. Sorry if you've tried this before, but did you attempt to use a different DME?
  8. An interesting post regarding the airbag light... http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/8574801-post217.html
  9. I've had this problem before however both times it was due to an improperly routed cable after transmission and/or engine reinstall. It can't bind anywhere and has to go directly over the top of the engine straight to the T/B. You might check that the cable housing end hasn't separated from the cable tube behind the throttle body, which can also shorten the cable. I do need to change my cable as it is starting to fray near the T/B. edit: you may also want to check your idle air control valve (IACV) to make sure it isn't gummed up and also throttle body butterfly to make sure it isn't binding.
  10. Sorry, I don't think this would work. The DMEs are fairly specific to model years, especially between a 987 and 986. An easier way would be to find a shop or person with a PST2, PIWIS, or Durametric that can just clear the airbag code. I believe the airbag light will reset itself if the problem is fixed and you do something like 40 drive cycles (restarts).
  11. Could be oil/road grime mix that entered the tube from poorly sealing o-ring and coil pack boot. I would just clean it up, install new o-rings and tubes and see if it returns.
  12. Interesting though that we are seeing this larger IMSB on an M96-01... this is the first I've seen or read about! You can still get an IMS Guardian from flat 6 innovations though, which will warn you of impending IMS bearing failure and avert total disaster... http://www.flat6innovations.com/shop/home.php?cat=399 Also the newer micro encapsulated external torx and torx bolts are standard replacement for the cam covers, scavenge pump, ims flange, case bolts, etc.
  13. This is pretty cool and is very new to me. I've been following the forums for 3 + years. I'm wondering what you have as well. Could you post some pics of your engine??? Bottom side near the wheels, and perhaps top side?
  14. If the center nut looked like this then it was probably retrofitted with an LN engineering IMS bearing.
  15. Assuming a good working solenoid. How many ohms should I read between the two pins on a variocam solenoid off a 1999 M96-01 (also for a Boxster) P/N 996 605 051 58 I understand with 12v applied the solenoid should pop out about 1/8" of an inch and be "stiff", not being able to be depressed. Thanks in advance.
  16. That is probably a re-manned engine from Porsche, according to the AT designation. 66X means it is a 1999 model engine (dual row IMS, 5 chain, 3.4L). A good thread on the subject... http://www.renntech....ine-sn-decoding
  17. I'm not sure about the owners manual but a puff of white smoke on startup for any car is normal. Even normal for it to persist for some time as condensation burns off... some of that is dependent upon moisture in the air. If the smoke persists until the car is warm and/or is a different color then there might be cause for concern. If you are concerned about your AOS, do a search - there are plenty of threads describing the techniques you can use to determine if the AOS might be going bad.
  18. If you have a 1997 year Boxster, I have a couple for sale from a 1999 996 (also works on a 2000 996 or 1997 Boxster). They only have 1 button on them. I'm not 100% sure, but I don't think the boards will work in a two button unit. PM me if you have a 1997 year Boxster and are interested. Otherwise you could try a dismantler, such as http://www.dcautomotive.com or http://www.ladismantler.com.
  19. Or leave them off to save weight. :rolleyes:
  20. Similar to Orient, after installing PSS10's, I built some little helper ramps for the rear wheels to drive up on out of 2x10x8 board cut in half and doubled over (to give an extra 3 inches of lift). Then I can fit my floor jack completely under the rear of the car.
  21. If you want nothing but the best check out flat 6 innovations... http://www.flat6innovations.com/shop/home.php
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