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rb101

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Everything posted by rb101

  1. rb101
    I have read a lot about IMS, but I don't really know what it actually does. Can someone explain it. Thanks, The IMS essentially takes the timing from the crank and send it out to the cams. The IMS sits below the crank in the engine. There is a chain that goes from the crank to the IMS. The IMS has two other chains that transfer the timing to the cams. The back one (by the bearing, flywheel side) that goes to the exhaust cam on cylinders 1-3. The other end of the IMS has a chain that goes to the exhaust cam on cylinders 4-6 (this end also runs the oil pump). If the bearing fails, the IMS has no support in the rear and the chains can/will jump timing. This timing jump causes the pistons to strike the valves and mayhem ensues, causing a total engine failure. Rick 99 996C4 87 944S
  2. rb101
    You need to replace the seals on the spark plug tubes, it's an easy fix. Hardest part is getting the tubes out without cracking them. If you hit a auto parts store and pick up a 1 to 1 1/4 rubber expansion plug, you can pop it in and tighten it up until the tube spins and then just pop it out. If you have one tube leaking, chances are you have others too. At 90K I had 3 leaking.
  3. rb101
    First you will need about a 6ft cheater bar. Home Depot or Lowes will have 1 1/2 in steel pipe that you can slide over your breaker bar, get as long as possible. If you are using a extension from the socket to the bar, use a jack stand to support the pivot point. Have someone hold the brakes and then stand on the cheater bar. That nut is torqued to 340 ft/lb and you have to get some advantage with the 6ft bar. Rick 99 996C4 87 944S
  4. rb101
    The old part is a track rod but has been superseded by "AS STEERING TIE ROD" 997-331-045-04 per the retail price list on Renntech $171 Rick 99 996C4 87 944S
  5. rb101
    I suspect you have air in the hydraulic lines from the clutch master cylinder to the slave cylinder. I had same problem on my daughters 944S. Eventually replaced the flexible line and both cylinders.
  6. rb101
    replacing the MAF fixed those same codes on mine earlier this year.
  7. rb101
    As soon as you stop a few times, the rust will be off the working part of the rotors. Since the brake wear light is on, for your safety and everyone you may run into, I'd very soon inspect and replace the worn parts (pads, rotors and sensors). Rick
  8. rb101
    I am assuming for the front diff. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=7069 Rick
  9. rb101
    I hit the 100K mark coming back from the beach Saturday. In the 18 months I've owned (since 83K), no major problems , but I can feel the clutch starting to wear. I will replace that in the next few weeks along with oils and the AOS.
  10. rb101
    I had a leak same location, it was comming from the AOS rubber tube.
  11. rb101
    I had the microswitch harness get pinched and eventually both wires were touching causing the lock/unlock problem in my daughters 944 Rick
  12. rb101
    When I bought my 99, the passenger side assist spring had popped off. It was just laying loose under the seat. I bet your has popped off too.
  13. rb101
    Mine leaks from that same place, when I refill the washer fluid. Did you add washer fluid lately?
  14. rb101
    Looks like you ruptured a motor mount. Did you use the engine as a jacking point?
  15. rb101
    Did you let it run for a few minutes? The computer has to adapt to actually getting a signal from the MAF
  16. rb101
    I had the same codes on my 99C4. These codes would pop up about every 2 weeks, usually after sitting at idle for 30 sec - 1 min. I finally replaced the MAF and both codes went away.
  17. rb101
    You can look up on the driver side of the transmission and see the AOS and bellows.
  18. rb101
    I had the same issue with mine, slow leak in tire and not key. I took an old socket, did some grinding inside and pounded it on the locking bolt. I removed all the locking bolts and put in new standard wheel bolts.
  19. rb101
    I was getting 1128 and 1130 codes once every other month before I moved from NC. I replaced the bellows on the AOS 9 months ago. When I moved, my drive involved more idling at lights and it would pop these codes every two days. It would also stumble/hesitate when cold in the morning for about 30 seconds and if I would accelerate passing thru 4500rpm, the ABS and PSM lights would come one. All the posts said to replace the MAF, so I did, and all the codes disappeared. Go figure.
  20. rb101
    Could this fault be allowing extra fuel vapors or air into the intake keeping the idle up?
  21. rb101
    JeTexas, Interesting thread. Most relays use a common pattern. If you put a multimeter in the ohm's setting between terminals 87 and 30, it should read 1 or infinity. Then apply 12v to 86 and ground 85, the relay should close and resistance should drop to almost zero.
  22. rb101
    Driving it more often and for longer will help reduce that problem. When I picked mine up, it had the same spooge in the filler tube. Now that it gets driven 50 miles a day 5 days a week, problem gone.
  23. rb101
    Been there, done that. I now check tire pressures every Monday morning, before the trek to work.
  24. rb101
    I get 24 mostly rural driving 60mph
  25. rb101
    Loren, You're the heat. I'll check it out this weekend.
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