perryinva

If your GF has a reaction everytime she's in the car with the AC on, that pretty much nails it. Any good automotive AC specialist can do it. I'd bet the dealer would just send it out. The AC system on the 996 is nothing unusually special, except for the amount of R134 in the system due to the long hose runs. You can clear the evap drain yourself, but they will do it anyway. They have a spray/gas that they flood the system with to kill the mold. I honestly don't know HOW accessible the evap itself is, or has to be, to sterilize it. If they will not/don't sell the DIY AC disinfectant spray after they clean it out, you can buy it at NAPA. You spray it in the intake after the pollen filter with the AC on. If you have a mild musty odor or slight problem it works fine, and is a good preventative, but it will not sterilize a heavy growth system like yours sounds like.

I get alot of enjoyment from repairing things myself that the dealer would charge big money for. +1000....amen!

What happened to the paint in all those joints? It's not rust cause I can see it's joint sealer?

Excellent! Thanks for the info Good to know that the plugs really are worth changing every 30k as specified. Mine were done by the PO about 1500 miles ago. Cost me $150 because the indie shop did not tighten down the #1 plug coil and I got a CEL

Limited slip additives are a friction modifier that allows limited slip clutch pacs to slip. If there is no friction modifier in the LS axle they grab and cause either clunking when making tuns, or clutch packs locking up with grabbing on turns. Syncros require no slippage when gear changing and are designed to line up the input to driven gear. Friction modifier can cause this to slip and cause a shift feel that seems to grind slightly or seems to have more resistance. So with that said M1 has a friction modifier already in it causing the feel as complained about. Per Mobil1: "Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lube LS 75W-90 contains special friction modifiers designed for limited slip-type differentials. In most applications, the addition of special LS (limited slip) additives is not required. For axles requiring the highest level of limited-slip performance, OEM specific LS additives can be added to this fluid. " Seriously, without trying to be offensive here, I'm not sure what your point is. At Mobil's site, http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorO...e_75W-90LS.aspx It clearly states that LS is for both conventional and limited slip. For highest performance LS diffs, ADDITIONAL modifiers may be added. Also says so on the bottle. That said, I stated I will use what is the Delvac replacement factory fill, per the above mentioned website. I am assuming of course that they are correct about the Delvac as a replacement for Porsche factory fill. It is NOT for LS....additional LS modifiers MUST be added. I have always been under the understanding that LS rated hypoid oils can be used in either conventional OR LS, but, you CAN'T run regular hypoid in an LS diff. I do not have a LS diff in my car. Now, I saw where you said "Mobil1 GL5 has limited slip properties. If you do not have limited slip, you may want to try RedLine 75w-90 NS. This may help your syncros work better and take care of your gear complaints." and you may be right, I had good luck with Redline in my LS BMW, improved smoothness over the factory fluid. My point was that Mobil 1 75W-90 LS is supposed to be OK as well, according to Mobil. For non LS use only oil, Redline is not on the Porsche list AFAIK, but the Delvac is.

If the charcoal mesh was really old and started disintegrating it would just fall right down in to the duct work on the 996, there is no way to prevent this. If it appears thats all it is, you can try to remove the accumulated debris by sticking a vacuum hose in the intake under where the pollen filter is, and maybe get some of it up. That would suck if it was that, because in order to get through to inside the cabin, it would have to be clogging the evaporator. You should be easily able to tell if it is tiny bits of charcoal. if it is REALLY lightweight, fluffy kind of stuff, though, then by the way you are describing it, especially with the musty odor, I'd bet you have a black mold on the evaporator, usually from a clogged evap drain line line not allowing it to dry out, The black particles you see is the bits of the "blanket" of mold tearing off the evap and blowing into the car. It shows no sign of stopping because it just grows back. I'd take the car to an AC specialist to have the system sterilized and the drains cleared. Then use some spray AC disinfectent on a regular basis. Any good automotive AC specialist will know exactly what I am talking about. Fairly common in hot, humid places like Miami & Houston....one of the nice things about dry heat in Arizona...never see that problem. We see it here ocassionally in Virginia.

Well, yeah, a Cayman is is not a 996. The rims are wrong, way too far to the outside the wheel well. The correct rear offset is 65....I know it's 50 for the fronts (narrow body C2)....Dharn is right..offset in the wrong direction....I'm surprised they fit at all.

Mobil 1 GL5 75w-90 LS is for both limited slip and non limited slip. That said, though, I'd still use the (and will use when I do it) http://www.lufteknic.com/Merchant2/merchan...Code=lubricants Luckily, they are, literally, almost in my backyard, so it's easy for me to get!

Funny, that's exactly what I was thinking. The old plugs look great! Hey, but I REALLY like that socket set & holder..anyone know what it is? As far as the 996TT, use the recommended plug.

Beware that there are two different types of filters!!! The "pollen" filter is just a pleated paper element, like a cheap air filter for the engine. The ACC (Activated Carbon Charcoal) cabin filter has pleated paper AND a charcoal mesh. Both same size, shape, & location. The ACC is a little thicker. The indie shop that serviced my car for the PO (of which I have the receipts) charged him for and listed an ACC filter at $42.00. There is just a plain $12 pollen filter in there. My last E39 BMW had 2 ACC filters in it at $25 each, but you could also get plain paper ones aftermarket for much less. We have such a HUGE (I mean REALLY HUGE) pollen problem here in central Virignia, that I usually buy a cheap paper one for pollen season, then toss it, and switch to the ACC for the rest of the year. They only take literally seconds to change, unlike many other cars. The charcoal in the ACC does nothing for pollen, it only filters out odors, the paper stops the pollen. Come to think of it, I think I'll change the "Porsche Certified Mobil 1 oil" (no viscosity listed) listed on the 30 k service with my Mobil 1 0W-40 just to be sure, even though it is only 7 months old with 1500 miles on it. WHo knows whats really in there.

That's why I mentioned that I used Kroil penetrant. Both of mine were frozen as well. Once I got down a few threads, and it was too difficult to hold down the rounded top and turn the nut, I used a Visegrip to hold the nut. I have an air set so it spun the nut off fast once the Visegrip had a good hold. I didn't want to chance rounding the square hole either. The key to Kroil is to let is soak a awhile. The second one I did, which soaked for an hour or so, literaly spun off with no problem. Looking forward to the pics and lets us know what it cost.....

Yes, let us know what happens..same thing might happen to me!

I recently added, pretty cheaply, a CDC-3 plus iPod adapter to my car. If you press & hold you get the well known "Becker 1" menu. I did this, because at firs tthe CDC would not work becuase I had the AUX turned on, and withthe current sensing switch I used, I have to leave it off. After that it worked fine, as does the iPod. My question is that one of the menu items is "'CDW RESET", as if pushing a button will reset something. Nothing inthe manual on this (infact nothing I can find anywhere onthe whole "Becker 1" menu. Anyone know what CDW RESET is?

I have not seen this same thing, but you say that you got the code from Loren last year, so it is not the one that came with the radio...it may be possible that you need to go up or down a number or two, as on a different radio (different car) I found out quite by accident that at least 2 different 4 digit numbers BOTH worked fine to unlock it..apparantly there is not a single unique 4 digit code...just a way lot more wrong ones!

IMHO, (which is not worth what many of the senior posters is)...if you can find the right optioned 99 FOR YOU for $10k less than a similar 02, get it. If the engine fails, no problem, the new one has a warranty and by most anecdotal info, will not fail. If it doesn't fail...you're up $10k +...now, in my case, I bought an '02 because it had all the options I really wanted, PSM, Litronic bi-xenon, heated, supple lumbar, & 18" wheels, even the right color, plus I like the face lift look better. I paid $32k for mine with 37.5k miles. I cound NEVER have found a similar optioned 99 for $22k, so it was a no brainer for me.

Are you sure about the codes clearing? I don't think that's correct, as on the 02 I recently purchased, the battery was dead, I repalced it, and then had a cel a few days later due to a loose spark plug wire. SInce I was still unfamiliar with servicing the vehilce I had it flatbedded to a well known local indie that found the loose connection (from the recently done 30k service at a different shop), and told me that none of the previous codes from before the 30k service had been cleared, so he cleared them all. Since you mentioned it was raining heavily, I'd bet cracked coil packs, that only show the cel when wet. Pretty common.

PLEASE PLEASE take some documenting pics of the engine being installed!!! I'd really love to see them!! Heck, if you were anywhere near me, I'd help you install it!

Nothing wrong with that at all...should be a nice look...be sure to post pics!!!......just wanted to be sure you knew they were stainless steel, not chrome plated steel

That's incorrect. On an "02 remove the locknut from underneath, pull out the bolt, and the tip pulls right off, The nut has a square base to prevent it from spinning (carriage bolt), so make sure you apply pressure on the round top to keep the bolt from spinning. I used Kroil to penetrate the threads. I just did this to polish the tips easily. But, just curious, why do you want to powder coat or ceramic coat stainless steel?

I use Kroil with great results.

That's good for the radio end...I 've never seen that. But, of course, there are already harnesses made for those connectors. I agree, I'd really like to have a mate for the two amplifier plugs in the trunk. That would be VERY helpful!

Did anyone notice that everyone that expressed gratitude here put their money where their mouth is and became a Contributing Member? And most are fairly low posters as well...

Well, I lucked out a little, and turns out there is local wheel repair place here called Wheel Wizards, and they do excellent work. The owner took me out back and showed me some wheel repairs he just did, and the work was excellent. The damage onmine was minor compared to the stuff he showed me. They totally strip the wheels down to bare metal, dye check for cracks, repair cracks, add metal as necessary, re-true and round all flat spots, then do a 400 F 2 coat powder coat plus a clear powder coat. His work on the finished ones I saw was flawless, and a lot more durable than paint by far. 90% of his work is for custom shops and dealers. He's doing all 4 wheels (also found 2 flat spots) for $700, and I'll have them by Tuesday (5 days) He'll mount and balance the tires I took off for $100 to guarantee there is no rim damage. He has a low opinion of the 18" BBS Carrera wheels, as he sees them regularly from the dealer. Crap. They do not do well with potholes. As far as wheel damage is concerned, he rarely sees 17" with cracks, but it goes up exponentially with size from there. He refuses to do anything larger than 21 inch on low profiles, because they are always coming back with owner complaints, and it is always new damage. He sells a nice line of forged alloys but they were way too rich for my blood!

LOL..I wasn't criticizing at all or posting to your post!!! EXCELLENT job..I'd like to see the calcs sometime...doesn't surprise me at all...I was posting for other readers that ASSUME the IPD plenum MUST be better because obviously Porsche just cut corners and used a plastic "T" instead of a "Y".....I've seen posts to that effect, so you obviously noticed the same thing as I did...MAYBE that is how the "improvements" WERE calcualted..as if it was a standard "T"?..who knows? All I know, is my money has to go to a new bumper cover and I just found out that 2 of my 18" lightweight BBS Carrera wheels have small cracks in them from the PO curb damage. I'm sending all 4 of them off to Metro Wheels in Atlanta to be checked & refinished...there's a quick $800 gone...

I just want to say THANKS to everyone that contributes SO much on this board. I have found answers to virtually every problem or question that I've come across on my 02 996 C2. This site is a really great resource and invaluable to the home garage DIYer like me. I'm in RIchmond, VA and if anyone on Renntech needs codes read or reset, I have the Autoenginuity software...just drop me a PM. While I'm not crazy about the thread format or the search engine, persistence has always payed off!