crwarren11

Just wanted to post some results from recently cleaning my radiators. After owning the car for 14 years, I finally got to this! I didn't realize until recently how much this affects the cooling of the car. But after going through an imploded ATF cooler which caused an intermix problem in the cooling system and caused the transmission to die, I thought I had done everything to refresh the system back to normal. I flushed and cleaned all the coolant lines and put in a new water pump and low-temp thermostat, yet I was still getting regular readings higher than I'd like to see, in the ~205F range. So you have some reference, this is the front of the left radiator when I got to it: This is what dropped to the floor when I got the cover off (and what was still in the cover): Of course, I forgot to take pictures of what was between the front radiator and the a/c radiator, but it was at least as bad. All-in-all I figure I got about 6lbs of crapola out of there. So, here's what's really cool. Before doing the cleaning my temperature was regularly running into the right side of the "0", even when the outside temp was reasonable: That was typical, even after only ~12 minutes of my daily commute to/from work. As you can see, only 68F that day outside and it was still running hot. (Pay no attention to the time, I broke my clock adjustor several years back). Now onto today...it's been blistering out here in Southern California and this is my temperature after driving stop and go through the city for about 20 minutes, with 102F outside: Steady at 180F, even with pushing it pretty hard. I am seriously amazed at what a difference this has made! I've only been tinkering with cars for a few years now, so I never knew about the radiators getting clogged up and causing such a big difference in cooling efficiency. I've tackled some pretty big projects on this Boxster and my two BMW's, but just goes to show you that if you are ignorant about something so simple then you really have no clue how to address it. This was maybe an hour of work and a 1 out of 10 in difficulty. I'm sure this is an obvious thing to nearly all of you, and this is why boards like this are fantastic. I would have never known about cleaning the radiators (and many other things I've learned here) had it not been for all the contributions of time and effort to help guys like me who are just in our infancy of tinkering. Anyway, just wanted to share my results and say a big thanks to everyone who contributes here!

Rebuilt with a friend who is much more knowledgeable than me, thankfully. Sent some parts off for rebuild like the TC and valve body. All seals were replaced that came in the master rebuild kit from ZF. This particular seal is at the end of what I call a plunger (I'm sure that's not the correct name), but behind the seal is a metal disc and behind that is a spring that provides compression. The spring and seal were both replaced. Hoping to have the trans back in this weekend.

Thanks for the feedback - I didn't think about using Sunset as a resource like that. I believe I correctly identified the bolts as 999-385-004-01 Bolt for Engine Crankcase Flywheel side, Micro-encapsulated type, 6 x 35 mm. The leak was originating from the transmission. I recently rebuilt it and the front seal was leaking.

In my case it is a mixture of ATF and coolant/water. In other cases a mixture of engine oil and coolant/water may happen in the Boxster.

2000 Boxster Tiptronic with ~92k miles. I have a small oil leak that I was chasing down as is seen in the attached images. For image reference, see engine oil sump at far left of picture, restraining cable (98633118101), and then oil drip basically in between the two cables. The first photo is taken underneath the car looking directly up, front of the car is on the left, rear on the right. Second photo with a slightly different perspective. Third photo aimed directly at the now broken bolt. I thought initially that the leak was originating from the gap between parts A and B so I tried to tighten the Bolt (circled), but it snapped. I applied almost no torque to it, it spun slightly then snapped. Not sure if this is normal, but it sure seemed loose. Upon further inspection it smells like the oil leak is ATF, not engine oil, and the leak may be originating near the torque converter. I need help identifying parts A and B and the associated bolt so that I can replace it. I appreciate any help you guys can provide! Thanks!

Resolved. See post at http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/41366-tiptronic-problem-questions/page-2

Work is complete and the Boxster is back up and running! I am (obviously) not a transmission expert so going through something like this for the first time has come with many valuable lessons. 1) It is likely impossible to recover from an ATF intermix issue without removing the transmission and completely draining the torque converter as soon as you notice the problem. Had I done this initially, I may have been able to save the transmission before having to do a rebuild. For me it is a bear to get the trans in and out, but for those with better tools and equipment this is a must and likely would have saved me tons of time and money on this project. 2) If your tiptronic is slipping or thumping into gear, check your ATF immediately! At least confirm that there is no intermix and confirm correct amount is in it. 3) It is amazing how much damage the intermix caused to the internal components of the transmission. After seeing them it was obvious that the mechanical damage was causing my issues, not all the electrical stuff I was hoping it would be and that I spent months fiddling with. 4) If you do your own work 90% of the time anyway, don't ever trust a shop with a menial task like changing the serp belt. More things can go wrong than you could ever imagine! So, all in all, this is the cost to repair: ZF Master Rebuild Kit (o-rings, seals, gaskets, steel clutches, fiber clutches, etc.): $900 from the CTSC (comes in three separate kits: overhaul, steel, and fiber) Torque converter rebuild: $340 from europeantransmissions Valve body rebuild: $420 from Valve Body Express Filter: $35 from Pelican 11L Pentosin ATF (~9L actually used): $132 on Amazon - this is a steal by the way, this stuff is $19/L on Pelican 3 tapered roller bearings: $42 from Autozone New ribbon cable: FREE from a friend of a friend of a friend Total: $1857 and about 6 months of my tinkering Yes, I could have bought a rebuilt transmission for about $2800, but I wanted to learn! I've driven about 50mi on it so far with zero issues (at least transmission related). I passed smog yesterday so looking forward to getting it back on the road full-time within the next couple of weeks. I do have a small engine oil leak that is new, so I am assuming this is a result of the engine not being run for a year and some seals hardening or something. I haven't traced it yet, but I know it wasn't there before.

I am in the final stages of completing a transmission rebuild on a 2000 Boxster Tiptronic due to an intermix issue with the ATF. This has included all steel and fiber clutches, all seals, gaskets, etc. and a rebuild of the torque converter. I am down to a question on the valve body. It has been suggested that I should also replace the valve body and I am unsure if I should do this at this point. Before the issues I encountered with the slipping clutches, there had not been any codes for anything related to the valve body (i.e. solenoids, etc.). Obviously the intermix had gotten into the valve body as well, but at least by appearance, everything looks fine with the valve body. I am looking for some opinions here on what the best course of action would be. I don't want to invest another big chunk of money on a new or rebuilt valve body without knowing that the current one is a problem, and without knowing that the work that I've done on the rest of the transmission has been successful. Is there anything I should be concerned with regarding potentially damaging the transmission (or any other problems) by using the current valve body? Thanks for your help!

Thanks, but yes I've already replaced the filter. I wish it were only that easy!

Just posting some follow-up on this issue. Finally got the time to drop the transmission and open it up. Found some really good tutorials on this on youtube and the ZF repair manuals are pretty easy to find online. Basically, all fiber clutches are corroded, flaking, nasty. Most of the steel clutches are pitted and corroded. Unfortunately, the intermix caused some serious damage inside! I have replaced all fiber and steel clutches as well as all seals, o-rings, etc. that come in the overhaul kit from ZF. I am waiting for a couple of bearings and races that have been hard to find. Sent the torque converter for rebuild just in case. I am hoping to have it all back together within the next few weeks to see if there is any life, but I should essentially have an entirely rebuilt transmission by the end of all this. I hope to report something (positive) in the next few weeks!

I found an obscure reference to a Timken p/n LM48548 which is a tapered bearing dimensions 34.925x65.088x18.034mm. These are easy to find and readily available so I ordered one (with the race p/n LM48510). I am still not 100% sure this is correct but it was cheap so I'll give it a shot. I still have not been able to find a Porsche p/n for this, so if anyone figures this out please let me know. Thanks!

In the middle of rebuilding a 2000 Boxster Tiptronic transmission, ZFHP19FL and I am having difficulty finding a part. I have the ZF p/n as 0735 371 418 and it is a tapered roller bearing in the front axle output on the intermediate gear. I have called ZF and the local Porsche dealer and they are unable to cross-reference the ZF number to a Porsche part number. I have also looked at the Boxster parts catalog and I have been unable to locate the part in their diagrams. So I'm hoping someone can help me here. Thanks for any help you can provide! Side note: incredible how unhelpful both ZF and their distributors are!

Certainly possible. Should be easy to confirm with an ohmmeter that the sensor has the correct value.

I have had similar issues and may be able to help guide you down this path a little bit. How was it driving before these issues? Any noticeable changes in shifting performance? As Loren noted, most likely scenario is low ATF, but most people will notice a significant leak if this is happening. Regardless, this is the first and easiest thing to check. If ATF level is ok I would look at your coolant reservoir to see if there is any sign of oil/coolant intermix in it. If so, it will look like a creamy coffee color, or you will see oil floating on top of the coolant. If this is the case then you have a blown ATF cooler which will need to be replaced, followed by seriously cleansing the transmission of all intermix. Hopefully this is not your issue. Also, check the appropriate pins for correct short and ohm readings both at the transmission (round plug towards the front of the ATF sump pan) and at the ECU. This should confirm if your sensor(s) are out of range. If you don't have these values, let me know and I will track them down and post them. While at the round plug check to make sure that oil/water has not seeped into the wiring. There is at least one pin in the plug that is for ground, but you will need the pin diagram to find it. I can post this as well if you need it. Alternativey, use a very long ohmmeter probe and attach it to the negative terminal of your battery. Basically, the code you reference will be issued if the expected wheel speed is not obtained at the given RPM. Once the CPU sees this, it will issue the code and put the transmission into default mode (flash P and 4) to protect the transmission from any further damage. Yes, this could be a mechanical transmission issue, but I wouldn't jump to that conclusion yet. I am in the middle of rebuidling my transmission after a failed ATF cooler and resulting intermix that demolished the fiber clutches in my transmission. There are several sources for kits for rebuilds, but again, don't jump that far yet!

I use Durametric for my Porsche and I am trying to firure out if I can use the same cable on my BMW to chase down a CEL. I tried it last night with no success using CarSoft software for BMW as well as the Durametric. If anyone has any experience getting cross functionality between vehicles using the same cable I would be greatly interested. I don't necessarily need full functionality and visibility of all "hidden" codes, just the basics at this point. Since CEL is on, it should be a code that any generic OBD2 scanner/software can read. I assume the Durametric cable has the same pin connection configuration for the basic code readouts. Since I've already spent the $250+ on the Durametric Enthusiast cable/software it just seems reasonable that I could get some readouts on a BMW using the same stuff without having to drop another $250+ for something that is BMW specific. Thanks!

Update: replaced the ribbon cable, replaced the ATF, got everything going and car operated good on test drive for ~20min then ran into the same problem again...no power. Seems to me that the clutches aren't engaging properly, but I'm still not sure if this is an electrical problem or a mechanical problem because things seem fine for a while, then go kaput. The magnets in the ATF pan had almost no metal particles on them. It had been suggested that these problems could be related to when the ATF temperature is higher, so I waited to test drive until the ATF temp was high (90-98C range). Also noted the ATF temperature was in the same range after the test drive. Same codes as before...36 (P0722) and 91 (P0717). Could the Tip ECU just be bad? Long shot, but does anyone happen to have one I could swap in to see if anything changes? The manual doesn't say this is a potential problem for these codes, though. A few things stood out to me on this go-round: The internal ATF filler cap was detached when I removed the sump pan...probably did that when I refilled the ATF previously (woops!). Anything related to that which could cause these problems? The ATF had some dark "streaks" in it, but overall was normal color. However, I've never seen these dark streaks before in the ATF, and I have drained/replaced it several times over the past year. When I first backed out of the garage Reverse was acting weird...with gas pedal pressed it was intermittently surging and didn't seem to have the usual torque without any gas applied. It seemed to correct itself after a few minutes though. Shifting through the gears while driving was very smooth...until the power started to fade. Total buzz kill because I thought it was fixed! I'm stumped. Short of dropping the tranny and taking it apart, I'm not sure if there is anything else to check.

Ok, just wanted to make sure I had the right cable before purchasing and not being able to return! Thanks!

The only "ribbon cable" I see is the entire wiring harness p/n 986-325-611-00 ($350...ouch!). Is there something else I'm missing?

Ok, I will do that. Do you have a p/n by chance for the ribbon cable? I will check the catalog later, but just in case you happen to know off-hand....thanks!

Ok, yesterday I got to the 16pin plug where it connects directly into the transmission. Since it was the first time I had removed that plug it took some fiddling to get it off, but now that I have put the plug back on I believe the plug may not have been fully attached/engaged into the receptacle. I ohmed the pins to check the speed input sensor directly on the socket to the transmission and, low and behold, the value was in spec (260ohms). I also pulled back the rubber on the plug at the transmission and there is definitely some oil present. I did not clean it with anything other than shop towels so far because I didn’t want to damage any of the electrical connectors with a substance that may corrode it, so I will get some good stuff to clean it up soon. I also confirmed continuity between the appropriate pins on the control module plug and the 16 pin connector plug. After cleaning what I could from the plug, I reattached it, started up, etc. Initially, the car seemed to behave the same (poorly), weird movement in Reverse, slow to little movement in Drive. I then cleared all the codes that were stored and tried again. With the wheels elevated the car seemed to engage Reverse and all gears properly. I got it into 5th gear and let it come back down to 2nd gear on its own…all very smoothly. So, I think I’m down to two possibilities since the sensor appears to be ok. Either the connector was loose and/or had oil present making the communication between the tiptronic control module and the transmission whacky; or, there is a problem with the TC (although I have not gotten any codes for this yet). Of note, after resetting the codes and the car seemingly performing normally, the code 91 / P0717 did not reappear. I got the 55/62 codes again, which I believe to be normal since the car is elevated. Next step will be to properly clean the plug, drop the car, reset the codes and test drive. If there are any other suggestions please let me know and I will let you know what happens once I try to actually put the car on the road.

Reset the codes, and the following came back up: 91, P0717: Stall speed, transmission input (same as before) 36, P0722: Speed sensor (this is new) Per Service Manual to chase DTC 91 I ohmed pins 16 and 44 on Tiptronic control module connector. It appears to be way out of spec at 42kOhms (should be 230-300Ohms). This points to the sender for transmission input speed. To chase DTC 36, I ohmed pins 14 and 42, which appears to be in spec at 0.9kOhms (spec is 0.8 - 1.2KOhms). So the sender for transmission speed appears to be ok. The previous codes DTC 52 and 66 have not reappeared. Howerver, there is no power to the wheels now at all. After revving up pretty high and getting no movement the P/4 flashing starts, indicating the fault. Is there a good place to connect to B+ in the rear luggage compartment to check the other values recommended by the service manual? Is there anything else I should check before replacing the input speed sensor?

Ok, I'll add that too the list as well! Thanks!

Thank you for the information on the axle rotation sensor, I will definitely keep that in mind. Loren, I have not cleared the faults yet because I wanted to check on some of these things first. Now that I have the information, I will clear the codes tonight and see what happens. I am a little scared to drive it around too much, fearing that I may damage something more or I may get stranded again and have to tow. Could it really be that simple?

Excellent, thank you! I replaced the ATF fluid as my first reaction, so I am sure it is correct. The ABS light is now on, but there were no faults stored. This is the same thing that happens when I get the car smogged. The ABS light will go off once I drive around a little, but since I can't drive it right now it is still on.

Got the Durametric yesterday. Here are the Tiptronic codes: 91, P0717: Stall speed, transmission input 62, P1715: Front right / front left 55, P1710: Speed signal - DME control unit I plan to chase 91 first, but I forgot to bring home my ohmmeter yesterday. One question, where is the 16 pole transmission connector that the manual refers to? Is this the one in the front luggage compartment? If so, any suggestions on getting readings between the Tip control module in the rear compartment and the ABS control module in the front compartment (that's a long way!)? I think 62 and 55 may just be related to running the car while jacked up. Any other ideas?