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Found 5 results

  1. Well I was driving yesterday when the coolant light began to flash, temp hit 200, so I went home and filled the coolant, which was really low. When looking through the fill, there wasn't any coolant all the way down. I put in about 3 quarts [ capacity 2.5 gal.] which was a lot of loss. But There wasn't any leaking. [?] The level stayed steady at the 1/2 min-max mark. Driving today, about 10 miles back and forth, not only did the light come on but the temperature shot up. I pulled into the driveway just as it hit 250. No check engine light, no other diagnostic light, just the flashing coolant light. [meter/check codes?] When I got out of the car, I could hear a loud whine from the trunk. Opened it to find that the coolant cap was venting hot coolant steam, and of course the loud and unnerving hissing-whine, from the cap. After a few moments it stopped. Waited till it all cooled down and slowly and carefully removed the cap. Same issue as above. No visible coolant in fill. I again put about 2 quarts, level hit between min-max. No leaks under car, coolant level hold steady. The mix is 1 gal. Porsche coolant [bought though Pelican], and 1 gal. distilled water. Shaken, not stirred to mix. Let sit. Yes, nice and pink when poured. The coolant tank is brand new, perhaps has a thousand miles on it. Cap came with the tank. Porsche, not OEM. Put on by a reputable shop which specializes in German cars. I screwed that cap down properly, real tight. No overflow. No leaks. I'm loosing coolant when driving, only. Any ideas? Obviously I can't drive it. Next steps is to load it on a flatbed, and drop it off at the shop. {Poor Boxie} ? Thanks, as always!
  2. 2001 996 47K miles. The engine temperature or coolant temperature needle has always sat on the 8 (180), once when i did a long 3 hr drive it drifted to then end of the zero, but it was a 3 hr drive on a 90degree day, but no big deal, that was 3 yrs ago. It has always sat on the 8. I noticed recently during city driving in about 15 mins, the needle starts to drift to the end of the the zero, and when its on the highway for a few minutes it would lower back into the beginning of the zero, but never back onto the 8. No leaks under the car, i see no signs of coolant in the engine, nor do i smell coolant dripping onto hot parts. My question is is this a precursor for something failing? Anything i can check? Any advice appreciated.
  3. Just wanted to post some results from recently cleaning my radiators. After owning the car for 14 years, I finally got to this! I didn't realize until recently how much this affects the cooling of the car. But after going through an imploded ATF cooler which caused an intermix problem in the cooling system and caused the transmission to die, I thought I had done everything to refresh the system back to normal. I flushed and cleaned all the coolant lines and put in a new water pump and low-temp thermostat, yet I was still getting regular readings higher than I'd like to see, in the ~205F range. So you have some reference, this is the front of the left radiator when I got to it: This is what dropped to the floor when I got the cover off (and what was still in the cover): Of course, I forgot to take pictures of what was between the front radiator and the a/c radiator, but it was at least as bad. All-in-all I figure I got about 6lbs of crapola out of there. So, here's what's really cool. Before doing the cleaning my temperature was regularly running into the right side of the "0", even when the outside temp was reasonable: That was typical, even after only ~12 minutes of my daily commute to/from work. As you can see, only 68F that day outside and it was still running hot. (Pay no attention to the time, I broke my clock adjustor several years back). Now onto today...it's been blistering out here in Southern California and this is my temperature after driving stop and go through the city for about 20 minutes, with 102F outside: Steady at 180F, even with pushing it pretty hard. I am seriously amazed at what a difference this has made! I've only been tinkering with cars for a few years now, so I never knew about the radiators getting clogged up and causing such a big difference in cooling efficiency. I've tackled some pretty big projects on this Boxster and my two BMW's, but just goes to show you that if you are ignorant about something so simple then you really have no clue how to address it. This was maybe an hour of work and a 1 out of 10 in difficulty. I'm sure this is an obvious thing to nearly all of you, and this is why boards like this are fantastic. I would have never known about cleaning the radiators (and many other things I've learned here) had it not been for all the contributions of time and effort to help guys like me who are just in our infancy of tinkering. Anyway, just wanted to share my results and say a big thanks to everyone who contributes here!
  4. I know this is a topic often reviewed here on the forum but I was looking for a little more help prior to just letting my local mechanic ream me for a few thousand dollars. Use the forum often, rarely (if ever) post, but have been far more active on equivalent sites for cars I've owned in past (Audi/BMW/etc)... Have an 04 Cay S, 87k miles, owner for past 16 months, probably drive 1200-1500mi/month. About 2 months ago, in traffic temp gauge went above 220 - i know it is very common for it to fluctuate in that 180-220 range but this was first ever time it went beyond. Was home about 1 mile later with no real issue. The next morning I got the "check coolant level" message, figured I could get to my mechanic 20 miles away and about 17 miles of the way there, got stuck in a little morning traffic and it quickly overheated, I sort of saw it coming so immediately pulled over and turned it off and waited for AAA. Shop replaced the water pump, coolant pipes (from the old plastic ones), flushed the coolant, etc. and for about 6 weeks all ran smooth, and even with being in some traffic never got past 180-190 temp wise. Over past 7 days its quickly become worse and is willing to fluctuate above 180 pretty quickly and certainly smells like coolant once parked. I have added to prior threads - 1) http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/42289-coolant-smell-always-evrything-replaced/ - in posting #7, does anyone know what the part is in the bottom right of the diagram? almost looks like a filter? that is leaking - what part is that and is it a major reason for conern? 2) http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/42643-ac-dryer-2004-cs/ - does this user's issue correlate to me at all? Thanks for your help!
  5. Hi guys, Looking for a little help. Just replaced the alternator and everything was fine for a couple of days. Then CEL comes on steady, along with the cruise control light, temperature light, and low fuel light. The tachometer is also not working. Everything else (gauges, etc) is fine and car is running great. Put my OBD scanner and NO codes come up at all. I think it might be a grounding problem, but am not sure. Anyone see anything like this? Any pointers would be appreciated. Thanks in advance, Al Nugent 2005 Carrera 4S Cabriolet. 26,600 miles.
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