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ldrhoades

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Everything posted by ldrhoades

  1. ldrhoades
    I'm running MSPC's on my 996 (wtih a few GT3 bits). They are fine on a wet track (assuming unshaved!). Mostly more grip than nerve - able to keep up with the AWD guys on wet surfaces. Realistically, any R compound tire is going to struggle in the real world on very wet surfaces, that's just not what they were meant to deal wtih. I have not experience with the Pirelli's, but agree with the assessment of the MPSC's. They can be tricky to get right on the track but work well when you do. They can be quite unpleasnt and feel quite greasy when they are too hot. I've got friends running the Toyo's, and at least in the US, I'd guess the price difference (not much) doesn't jsutify the performance delta. I must say, I've been very impressed with the durability of the Michelins - they've withstood lots of track abuse (no appreciable street use). Of course once you get R's that you like, you'll immediately have Hoosier envy.
  2. ldrhoades
    Ok did the search - checked the connector pins on the light - appear to be OK. Seemed the switch problem was more of an issue with the litronics than the standard halogens. Only the low beam is out - and nothing "flaky" happening otherwise. I'll check the connectors again. Thanks
  3. ldrhoades
    Pads are really easy to replace - it's not uncommon to shortcut on the vibration dampners (I do it - as do many I know), especially if you don't happen to care about squeaking (or can't hear it due to stupidly loud exhausts). You DO NOT have to change rotors every time you change pads (don't let a dealer convice you otherwise). As long as your rotors meet minimum thinkness specs and dont have excessive (or any if you are paranoid) radial cracks, you'll be fine on the rotors (watch for any cracks that connect from hole to hole, or that reach the edge of the rotors). You could easily get 3 or 4 pads per rotor set (depending on the use of the car - more track, less rotor life). Loren is right as usual, pad material also makes a big difference, but I would bet that at least both fronts would be squeaking if there were track pads (at least mine do;) ). All and all a new set of pads and vibration dampners isn't very expensive and is an easy DIY with even minimal mechanical skills (of course it is your brakes, so if you aren't comfortable - don't do it!). Good Luck.
  4. ldrhoades
    My passenger side low beam is out on my 2000 C2. It's not the bulb (swaped with a known good bulb) and it's not the fuse. Any thoughts on what it might be? (High beam works, as does the city light). Thanks in advance! Lennie
  5. ldrhoades
    You could always go with a set of Pilot Sport Cups or something similar that will love all that extra camber!!! ;) Lowering the USA M030 ride height shouldn't put you beyond the adjustable upper control arms capability. I think lowering the USA M030 puts you at about the ROW M030 ride height which lots of folks have successfully done. You definitely won't need the adjustable lower control arms with that set up, something else is going on. My car is ridiculously low (don't ask about what my oil pan looks like). What camber are they able to get dialed in? Are you running factory wheels and tires? Spacers? Again, IMHO seems to be something we are missing. Did you go with adjustable drop links on the car when you lowered it? Perhpas something is binding? I guess it is woth asking, apart from the tire wear, does it handle OK?
  6. ldrhoades
    I solved the problem with adjustable rear toe control arms - and upper control arms. It's expensive but holds alignment even at very low ride heights (track only at 108mm). There are high quality vendors aout there making excellent parts. An easy install for a quality alignment shop (home install isn't bad, but you'll still need a full alignment). There are tons of threads on alignment specs. Loren is right, sa you go lower, be careful. Some unpleasant things can happen as you begin to mess with the factory specs, especially at high speeds (loss of straight line stability isn't fun). Make sure your alignment shop knows what they are doing. Good luck.
  7. ldrhoades
    Guess it depends on what you are primarily using the car for. My car spends most of its time on the track and I've found Pagid Orange to be quite effective on an otherwise stock bakek setup. Keep the brake fluid fresh too, that can make a huge difference as it's hygroscopic, absorbing water over time. If memory serves me, Pagid blacks are similar to the Porsche Sport pads and are probably worth taking a look at. I would NOT opt for a big brake kit. Our stock brakes have huge amounts of stopping power, and it is unlikely you will run out of brakin capacity on the street (or frankly even the track). Good luck.
  8. ldrhoades
    You don't have to remove the dash to get the passanger side airbag out. There are pretty decent directions out there already. Short story is pull the air conditioning ducting out and the you can reach two 13 mm bolts holding it in. It is heavy and quite a weight savings.
  9. ldrhoades
    Yes - will fit - make sure you get the 3-spoke airbag - they are not interchangeable with the 4-spoke. Unscrewing the airbags from the rear is a "fun" job - so while not technically difficult, it isn't necessarily an easy job - requried some fairly uncomfortable contortionist skills.
  10. ldrhoades
    I know this is an old thread, but this finally happened to me. For others that might see this, to keep the extractor in place (after beating it with a sledge {not recommended}), i used a floor jack and a block of wood to apply pressure and keep it in place as I turned it with my cresent wrench. What a nightmare! Had I resorted to the jack earlier in the process, it might have saved the engine some abuse... Good luck.
  11. ldrhoades
    As is often the case, I answered my own stupid question with time and patience (both of which are short in my world). For others that may search the same topic - the seat rail bolts are accessible with the seat in the all the way "up" position (mine were all the way down when I took them out - hence - zero access to the hardware). New Seats going in this weekend. Cheers!
  12. ldrhoades
    You might want to take a look at the PCA forums. There is a lot of information on this. You can fairly easily go to the wider widths as long as you are mindful of the propoer offsets. There are caluclators out there that can help. I can't recall off the top of my head, but I think the GT3's ran 8.5's up front and 11's in the rear. Of course they have different suspensions (you may need coilovers otherwise the wheels may not clear the fat stock springs. If you get the right offsets and have the right suspension - you shouldn't need the spacers. Be careful about wheel witdts and recommended tire widths. I wouldn't stretch a tire to the limit on a rim. Hope this helps. (FYI - I'm heading for racing slicks for track tires - will looking at 8.5 fronts and 11" rears - with the correct offsets - they'll fit on my 2002 C2). Good luck.
  13. ldrhoades
    Ok, need some help. Have Sparco Evo2 Plus seats on order - wondering about the install. I can buy BK adapters that will fit the "non-power seat rails". Do these refer to seat rails with the manual fore/aft adjustment (and power seat back angle), or is there a truly manual seat (and I just haven't seen it). Also, assuming my rails are the "non-power" vareity - any advice on how to access the bolts holding the seats to the rails (the seats are out right now with the rails attached). Many thanks in advance for any insights. -Lennie 2000 C2 with Mk1 Aerokit
  14. ldrhoades
    Try Rennline - they have a nice set.
  15. ldrhoades
    They are all in this DIY article - RoW M030 Sport Suspension Install Thanks Loren, Apparently axle strut = lower control arm for others that might be hunting. Some of the bolts are not the easiest in the world to get a torque wrench on either..... Regards, -Lennie
  16. ldrhoades
    I thought I had the torques required for installing my GT3 lower control arms. As it turns out I'm missing the torque value for the lower control arm to the cross memeber (going to be a big number), and I'm also missing the torque for the ball joint. Can anyone help - we're in the middle of the install (I know - great planning!) Thanks, -Lennie 2000 996C2 6-speed
  17. ldrhoades
    Thanks - I did some more digging - I figured out the parts issue. I've done suspension work before, but not the LCA - any thoughts on that? DIYable - or best left to a "professional"?
  18. ldrhoades
    Looking at purchasing the GT3 lower control amrs to facilitate more camber on my '00 C2. I was looking for a DIY on our forum but couldn't find one. I found one elsewhere for a Cayman but it involved "homemade" parts which I wasn't too excited about. So, has anyone done the LCA upgrade as a DIY? Second question, do I need GT3 trailing arms too (I've occasioanlly seen them packaged with GT3 LCAs) to avoid the need for extra washers and the like? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks, -Lennie
  19. ldrhoades
    I'm looking at upgrading my brake pads for DE events (brake fade coming into 10A at Road Atlanta - found religion in a hurry). I'm leaning toward the Pagid Orange. Looking to avoid some expense, anyone running upgraded pads in the front with stock rears (looking to save some aggrevation)? Any insights appreciated. 2000 C2 w/aerokit
  20. ldrhoades
    Found the partnumber. Thanks! (996.106.316.51)
  21. ldrhoades
    Thank you very much THAT is the part i need!
  22. ldrhoades
    Can anyone give me the part number for the metal gasket below? (it is not part number 996.106.326.50) Thanks! 2000 996 C2 6-speed A close up (sorry about the poor quality).
  23. ldrhoades
    Can anyone give me the part number for the metal gasket below? Thanks!
  24. ldrhoades
    Need code please: CRD-220 Serial # X5035422 4462 24/99 Thanks!
  25. ldrhoades
    Let me try and upload a pic (sorry about the marginal quality)... Lennie: That is your thermostat housing gasket leaking. To avoid or minimize draining the entire cooling system, use a pair of hose pinch pliers to clamp the coolant hoses going to and from the thermostat housing before you remove the housing to replace the gasket. The part number (for just the gasket) is 996-106-326-50 (about $4.00). Regards, Maurice. Finally got around to ordering the part number referenced above. It is an odd shaped gasket, not the rectangular one that I need. Can you double check the part number? Thanks, -Lennie
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