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ldrhoades

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Everything posted by ldrhoades

  1. ldrhoades
    I was thinking the same thing, but I've never heard of the plastic pieces breaking. I'm guessing there must be some performance advantage. I've heard the plastic can flex quite a bit, perhaps that is part of the puzzle. On the weight side, I suspect the plastic is actually lighter.
  2. ldrhoades
    Odd question perhaps, but I'm wondering what the advantages are of the aluminum intake distributors used on the x51 power kit cars (and GT3s) vs the normal plastic parts on the production engines. Anyone know or have a hypothesis? Thanks!
  3. ldrhoades
    In the FWIW department - my son and I put the first set of coil over's on my 996 (H&R RSS Club Sports). We spent lots of time on the forums (thanks to Loren and others for all the great info), and dialed in ride height. We went with some pretty well known alignment specs found on this forum too. The care handled good and we were pretty satisfied. To make a long story short, I ended up having a race shop (Goldcrest Motorsports in North GA - fantastic shop) do some work on the car, and had them do an alignment and set ride height. The bottom line - night and day difference in how the car handles (they actually raised it up a bit). While my 996 is now a dedicated track toy with JRZ RS Pros, and no longer street legal, I can't emphasize what a difference getting the car professionally set up has made. If you have a race shop near you that knows 996/997 vehicles in my opinion it is well worth the relatively modest cost to have them dial it in. It's some of the best money I've spent on the car.
  4. ldrhoades
    Just go my set of Schnell headers installed this weekend (early Christmas present!). My son found a set of $299 Schnell headers that fit up perfectly. They are burried on the Vertex site, and while perhaps not as nice as some of the Fabspeed products, they are a heck of a value for the money. Anyone else have any experience with these? They are nearly impossible to find on the Vertex site - part is SBHBASIC. They sound great, and hopefully they last - but at $300, I guess I can replace them in a few years worst case!
  5. ldrhoades
    I got mine from FVD - it was a little expensive, and required me to drill a couple of holes in the bumper of my MK1 equipped car. Fits nice. It's a porsche motorsport part and came from Germany. I don't recall the part number - but you may want to give them a call. I think the're down in FL somewhere.
  6. ldrhoades
    I have them on my track car with no cats, they work - most of the time...
  7. ldrhoades
    My 2000 C2 is now exclusively a track rat. About 60k on the clock, Last 10 have been exclusively track. I don't habitually bounce off the rev limiter (have banged it once or twice), don't generally run to redline either, but again do so occasionally. Honestly, I'd be more worried about your transmission - if you are rough on the box the syncros can be a little fragile. Assuming you maintain, and warm up the car properly, have at it I say.
  8. ldrhoades
    Thanks JFP - makes sense. Looks like I'll be replacing the very cool and light Braile, with a more durable and 10lb heavier Optima (still half the weight of the boat anchor from the factory).
  9. ldrhoades
    Have you tried pushing it back in and re-seating it? Trying to remember last time I yanked mine out, but seem to recall this might have helped. Just my $.02
  10. ldrhoades
    I pulled my box when stripping interior. You can get the nuts off with a pair of pliers if you are careful. I used a small set of vice grips and lots of patience. Nuts came off intact, I suppose if I was so inclined I could put them back on (although I'd use a regular nut for convenience if I were to do it). Good luck.
  11. ldrhoades
    Little bit off topic, but has anyone else had issues with life of their Optima or other lightweight battery (e.g. Braille). I have the 11 lb Braile, and after about 2 years, it's not holding a charge. I've heard anecdotal evidence that the lightweight batteries can cause damage to the alternator? I'm curious if anyone has any experience or opinions about either life, or possible issues with the alternator. Thanks.
  12. ldrhoades
    I'm in the wrong part of the world for you, and Northern Cal is a pretty broad area (I lived in Dunsmuir for a while, but didn't pick up much other geography). Isn't The Racers Group out there somewhere? I've had great luck with "race" shops, even on street cars. Goldcrest outside of Atlanta helped me get out a stripped oil drain plug (I tried all the tricks). They did it with out batting an eye, all for the price of an oil change. I've heard good things about TRG, but have no experience with them. Don't know how far they are, but I'd try a race shop over a dealer. Good luck. (My sons sitting across from me and reminded me that that airbag screw was "satan").
  13. ldrhoades
    I'll be the contraian here. I've had my oil cap come off at the track (wasn't tightened up after checking oil - supid, I know). Anyway, car ran fine. Turing great laps at Road Atlanta. High G loading, high RPM, all the normal track rigors. The only reason I figured it out was that I was black flaged for smoak. Made one hell of a mess but the car ran fine. That said, I've got a semi-permanent CEL due to other mods on the car (it's strictly a track rat). But it did RUN fine, no noticible difference in performance. That said, when I'm not being stupid, I prefer to have the cap on and TIGHT.
  14. ldrhoades
    Little bit of a strange question - adjustable links with stock sway bars? Do you have stock struts? Assuming you've started by adjusting to the stock legth? For adjustable bars, the trick is to adjust them so there is NO PRELOAD on the bar. In other words, you should be able to move the lenth (at least side to side) reasonably easily when installed. Not a great expalnation, but if you put them on you should be able to "feel" them. Hope this helps. Good luck.
  15. ldrhoades
    I also had one side not too bad and the other side extremely difficult (also on 4-spoke wheel). Tightening a bit is a good tip. Mine too a LOT of force. Quite frustrating, but eventually got it loose. Good luck.
  16. ldrhoades
    This trhead is a little bit old, but you may want to rethink the coil overs if you aren't going to be tracking the car. There are some downsides (like chasing suspension set ups). Lowering springs will likely get you what you are looking for and be a lot less of a headache. I wouldn't go with R comps of any type for the street. The summer tires that are being made now are pretty phenominal (I've had rides in the Cayman R and Boxster Spyders with the Porsche school drivers on street tires and they keep up with the R comps on the track).
  17. ldrhoades
    I change brake pads and fluid frequently. For just a little more effort, you can get the car on 4 jack stands and that makes the brake job faster. Jack up the right or left side from the rear jack point - put stand under front point. Do the same thing on the other side. Then go to the rear of the car and jack up from the engine lug (will raise both rear wheels) - and you can place a jack stand under the two rear jack points. This is particularly convenient when you are changing the brake fluid due to the bleed sequence (RR, LR, RF, LF).
  18. ldrhoades
    Loren, an old post, but I'm looking to remove the steering lock and having trouble getting the spring loaded pin to move... am I missing something, or is it just under very heavy tension? Comments would be appreciated. he workshop manual is no clearer on the procedure. Help, please. Thanks, Lennie Never mind! Figured it out - make sure the steering wheel lock is DISENGAGED! (insert key in ignition, turn to position 1 "run", jiggle the wheel to unlock - and presto).
  19. ldrhoades
    I went with solid (not semi-solid) motor mounts - noticeable difference, but still not too much vibration. I'd probably at least go for the semi-solid upgrade. I too did the install in about 30 minutes. One of the easier mods I've done. I've also replaced my LCA's. If you are going to replace, you might look at going with split GT3 control arms. They aren't that much more money, but will give you much greater flexibility on your alignment settings. Replacing the control arms isn't for the faint of heart. It's not difficult per se, but it isn't simple either. Sounds like you'll have a support group there (and ready access to a pickle fork!), so good luck.
  20. ldrhoades
    I've got 12" CCW's on the rear of my 2000 C2. They mostly fit ;) . With the correct offset, shouldn't be a problem with 11". If you are talking factory offset wide body wheels, they wont fit. Can't remember, but spacers may or may not help. Do a web search - there are a number of good offset calculators on the web. They will let you convert from what you have to what you want to go to and show interference/stick out problems.
  21. ldrhoades
    25
  22. ldrhoades
    Not sure about SCCA, but PCA stock rules allow the use of GT3 split lower control arms, this will allow you as much camber as you want to run. Typical set up on a 996 is to do this with monoball top mounts (that may or may not offer a little extra camber). If you're going to race - adjusting with the LCA is the way to go. As an added bonus, most kits will allow some additional caster adjustment depending on how exotic your planning to get with your alignment. Relatively inexpensive route to - kits can be had for about $700-$800. Install isn't too difficult as a DIY, and certainly no problem for a shop.
  23. ldrhoades
    V1 is the way to go (directional arrows) No longing for a Turbo, but what I'd give for a GT3....
  24. ldrhoades
    I have a 2000 C2 6-speed that has been converted to exclusively track use. Running 12-15 weekends for the last 2.5 years with zero mechanical problems. The 3.4 doesn't leak a drop of oil and doesn't use any either. After putting the car on a serious diet (down to slightly less than 2900 lbs), it's even fast! I think the cars are a tremendous value (if well bought). Enjoy!
  25. ldrhoades
    Never thought I'd recommend this as an inexpensive alternative, but you might look at Techart, I too have the MK1 aerokit parts on my car, but have a friend with a '99 that has nearly identical Techart products (done when he bougth the car, so I'm not sure if still available). In fact, i've wondered about the rear side skirts (by the muffler), my car doesn't have them from the factory - not sure if the "real" ROW MK1 GT3's did or not. Assuming not, then what you are looing at in the pic could all be aftermarket parts (again see techart, as I know they had them at one time). Interesting the pictured car seems to have a GT2 wing. I like the flying taco better (but have motorsport wing envy - assuming I had a spare $10k!). But seriously, with a quick internet search and you'll be able to get the same look with high quality parts for less than half the Porsche cost. Good luck.
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