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judgejon

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Everything posted by judgejon

  1. welcome to the forum.... tons of posts and threads on the mods available, just check on the search engine for almost everything. the accuracy of the oil gauge reading depends on engine temp. the starting issue sounds to me like an alarm module failure. good luck. fight on for old SC, Trojan. jl
  2. we have the same car, and I can count on one hand the number of times my wife has actually got in the car to go on a trip with me. I've scraped the front end spoiler a few times, but nothing serious, and tore up the left wheel air spoiler driving on a rolling lawn a few years ago. (long story for another time.) but I was able to push that spoiler pretty much back into place even though the plastic piece that holds the rubber fastener was cracked. the front spoiler cracked once going up on a curb, but I eased the plastic back into shape and it actually looks just fine. I couldnt say how much the car was physically lowered, but I bought a case of paper the other day, 12 reams I think, and put it in the front for the ride home. the car drove noticeably better to me with the extra weight. my 911sc drove better with a full tank of gas, and for fast runs I'd occasionally put some extra weight up front, usually a large bag of rock salt, about 50-60 lbs. The weight of the paper, I think 40-50 lbs, added some extra stability in the c4s going over the mountains on my way home. It could all be in my head, but I think the weight really did help, and I didn't notice any difference in the weight or ride level of the car at all. all that being said, I don't think we could get our spouses to ride in the front end. or..... ok, forget it. :lol:
  3. you would get the privilege of generally paying more money for the same work. cheers.... and welcome to the forums.
  4. foot well lights were standard on the turbo, optional on all other models.
  5. there are several threads about this issue in the forum. check out search engine. As I understand it, the foam is coming off the edges of the flap in the a/c system that mixes hot/cold air.
  6. durametric is a good idea. if you are experiencing voltage drops the problem could be caused by a failing alternator. also, but less likely, is the possibility that the sensors are being thrown off by different tire makes on front/rear. Have you changed tires recently putting a diff brand on the front or rear? If the problem is tire related you can remedy that by switching off the PSM, or by 2 tires to match one of the brands. enjoy the hills and blue-bottles this time of year - the hill country and lakes around Austin are great. luck to y'all. Before you go to the trouble of checking anything else, check your brake lights, both rears and the 3rd. Often, these messages are due to either bulb failure and/or brake a switch gone bad. This happened to me recently, both messages and one dealer misdiagnosed it but the 2nd hit it right: brake light switch. Replaced and issue resolved. right. I forgot about the brake light switch...lots of posts here on it. good suggestion.
  7. durametric is a good idea. if you are experiencing voltage drops the problem could be caused by a failing alternator. also, but less likely, is the possibility that the sensors are being thrown off by different tire makes on front/rear. Have you changed tires recently putting a diff brand on the front or rear? If the problem is tire related you can remedy that by switching off the PSM, or by 2 tires to match one of the brands. enjoy the hills and blue-bottles this time of year - the hill country and lakes around Austin are great. luck to y'all.
  8. Gary, my initial reaction would be to change the bolts. they are not too expensive and you're right there to do it. Just might give you some peace of mind, if nothing else. Have you experienced any problems with opening the bleeder valves? I've had an issue with frozen bleeders and have had one actually break off. the situation is all set out in the 996 DIY forum maintainence section regarding bleeding brakes. I ended up "plugging" the sheared off bleeder with a 5mm bolt and will ultimately have to likely drill all 8 out and replace them. Brakes are still working fine. I mention this only because if I was taking the calipers off I'd replace the bolts without hesitation. I plan on doing this and drilling out all 8 bleeders when I need to replace the pads. Good luck....
  9. Just checked them out at Tire Rack, and it looks as though the Fuzion is not made in a 295/30/18 for the C4S. but thanks for the good review....
  10. thanks. I'll check these out at next tire change. I'm almost due for 2 rears, and from what you've said its probably worth getting 4 to replace the Potenza 050 pole positions I've been running for many years. I've found these Bridgestones to be the most consistent tires on both of my 911's, and would be confident with another Bridgestone product. the 050's are rated aa traction, which for me is good because I live in a rainy area. these are summer hp tires, and I run them all year. no snow on the coast. what's the traction and wear rating on the Fuzion's, and if you dont mind, what did they set you back? I'm assuming the zr1 is a summer tire, not all season. cheers,...
  11. get a Durametric..... it will show the fault code and clear the light. good luck....
  12. consider swapping out the amber side lens for a clear one....
  13. Thanks, I agree. I've had the car for several years, from 13k to 30k, and as far as I know this would be the first time the brakes have been bled, or attempted anyway. I'm thinking that the valves were over torqued at the factory. We solved the problem of one broken bleeder valve, and I anticipate resolving all the others when it's time to change out the pads. Hopefully I wont need to replace all four calipers....ouch. j
  14. Just curious if others have experienced problems or issues with opening brake bleeder valves on a turbo or C4S. Bleeders being frozen in place, breaking off, etc.
  15. sure sounds like a fuel pump issue. the batt should be at just over 12v when the key is turned on. when cranking the motor to life the batt will go down to 10 v or so due to the heavy draw from the ignition. upon start the voltmeter should show 14 v, or just under 14v. after the engine is running for about 10 seconds the auto a/c will cause the voltmeter to momentarily dip to about 13v. if this is happening the battery is probably ok and its the fuel pump, imho.
  16. ouch, sounds like a head gasket. been there, done that with my old Fiat 124 spyder. ouch. good luck, hope its not anything serious...
  17. there are tons of pictures here and on 6speed. It really is a matter of personal taste. I prefer the "stealth" look of the grey S. good point re putting the 4S emblem on other cars, but I shouldn't get into it because I did put those cool 327 flags on my old 62 black Impala in place of the lame 283 V's at the front sides. B)
  18. If you're checking your level after just a few minutes you may try removing, examining and re-seating the expansion tank cap. If there's a leak in the cap seal it could explain the flashing light (which is a low coolant level warning), and after a short drive the water level may return to normal before your visual inspection. Loren's probably right that the sensor in the tank is faulty, but there's the odd chance that it's a leak of some sort and a longer drive may result in an expansion tank overflow and overheat. Mark The level in the tank is close to MAX when the engine is cold. Both times when I have had the warning during driving, I have stopped the car immediately and checked the tank. The level has then been low (under low level) but when I open the cap carefully (due to vacum in the system) it then raises up to MAX again. I have then started the engine and been driving for hours without any new warnings. were the radiators flushed recently? wonder if there is some air circulating in the system that might affect the sensor operation?
  19. welcome. tons of mods re navs and radios are found here and at 6speed. check it all out. most involve moving the dash components around, and there are very well detailed threads about that procedure on both forums. my wife had several bmw convertibles and they were way fun, but they aint p-cars by any means. enjoy......
  20. ok, part of the ambient lighting system.... good investigation, hope it can be easily reattached.
  21. mustache attachment for a Mr. Potato Head? sorry couldn't resist. looks like a sensor for auto dimming of dash/headlights, or rear view mirror positioning.
  22. if you have a car with the "smoker" option, meaning there is a powered cigarette lighter in the dash, that is a constant, unswitched power supply. plug the trickle charger directly into the lighter socket and, voila, that's it. many threads on this point. run through the search engine, its very good. the use of the lighter socket may be dependent on year, model, I'm not really sure. but it works great on my '03. good luck...
  23. Well, the bad news if they are frozen then they are likely rusted and/or corroded. If it were my car I would carefully spray penetrating oil on those bleeder screws being very careful NOT to get any on the brake disks or pads. Be sure and wipe any excess. Then give then another try. If you can get them off consider replacing them (930.351.919.00 ventilation valve -- US MSRP $19.02 each). thanks, Loren. and I appreciate the pm.
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