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JeTexas

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Everything posted by JeTexas

  1. Are you sure it's not the little plastic covers that go over the emergency latch releases? Mine rattled like crazy until I took Loren's advice and put some fabric tape on the backside of them.
  2. I agree with calling your credit card to stop payment. Sounds like these guys either have no product to sell or have gone belly-up.
  3. If you notice, all the water pumps come with a thermostat housing gasket as well. It's not only a good idea to go ahead and replace the thermostat when you do the water pump, but is MUCH easier to slide the pump out if you remove the thermostat housing and can pull that hose out of the way. By the way, NAPA has started carrying remanufactured 996/986 lifetime warranty water pumps for $144 with an $11 core charge.
  4. Thanks so much for everyone's help last night. For the first time ever the local dealership had a part I needed in stock, and I'm back in business.
  5. It's definitely the switch. If I have someone fiddle with the button the lights flicker on and off. How do I get it off of there? Is there a trick or do I just yank it with pliers? Thanks for everyone's help.
  6. How far out is that spring-loaded piece in the brake light switch supposed to go? Mine doesn't seem to be popping out more than a millimeter or so past the metal bracket when I depress the brake.
  7. I just got flagged down by a lady in traffic because I had no brake lights. I got back to my parking garage at work, and they flickered once as I was backing in, but yep, they're gone. My back-up lights work. When I turn on the headlights, the rear driving lights work. I just get no brake lights when I press the pedal. I don't have any manuals with me. Can anybody give me a quick checklist of things to go through and where each thing would be located on a 99 C2? I really don't want to drive home in Houston traffic with no brake lights. Thanks in advance.
  8. I've been through the Durametric. Now I'm on the PST2. Still not finding the fault.
  9. I tried your suggestion and the performance was slightly worse.. Here are the CEL codes and Fault codes produce without the MAF connected. P0455 Fault 94 Tank vent System Error Major Leak P0102 MAF Fault code 115 Below limits (Not Connected) P0112 Fault code 124 Intake air temp below limit value The P0102 and P0112 are due to the MAF being disconnected. However, the P0455 is most likely your problem. Check your vacuum hoses for leaks and do a search of P0455 on here for more troubleshooting info.
  10. Thanks to a lot of help from tholyoak, I was able to switch out my DME this weekend with a known working unit. I got absolutely no change in my symptoms. So at this point, I can say it is definitely NOT: - An intermittent vacuum leak (at least one that myself or three different mechanics have been able to find ... ) - Sticking throttle, cable or pedal - Idle Control Sensor - Throttle Position Sensor - Mass Airflow Sensor - Coolant Temperature Sensor - Alternator Diodes - Bad Ground (that anyone can find ... ) - DME or fuel pump relays - DME All my percieved patterns of when the problems starts or stops have gone out the window. Whenever I seem to find something temperature or voltage related, within a few days of tracking the problem, the percieved pattern will change. The only thing that can for sure make it happen, if sometimes only briefly, is turning the car off and turning it back on. I'm not sure where to check next. I think maybe the fuel pump regulator or one of my friends suggested the cruise control system although it happens whether the cruise control is turned on or off, and the cruise still works normally when it's turned on.
  11. I use the Porsche RTS racks. I'm riding every weekend training for the MS 150, so I leave the front brackets on the windshield and screw in the rear brackets every Saturday morning. I just keep the RTS assembled in the garage and carefully set it down onto the mounting brackets, then bolt it on. It takes 10 minutes or less to install and remove, and it's very secure. I was originally using a Yakima Raptor with Yakima Universal Mighty Mounts on the RTS for my bike, but ended up switching to the actual Porsche bike carrier. It's virtually the same design, but it slides into the crossmembers of the RTS instead of bolting over them.
  12. I'm glad you're finally back on the road. Seems like it's been a long ordeal.
  13. They resized them. I did mine last year. There's no more shaving of the parts or anything complicated. It's plug and play now with great directions. But you're right in the fact that the numbers and icons on the display aren't EXACTLY the same.
  14. I don't think there's anyplace with anything more than brakes, plugs, filters, wheels, etc. online and for something as detailed as an interior part, you're going to have to go to a dealership. However, if you call or email the board sponsor Sunset Porsche (I suggest calling because sometimes emails can take a day or two to be returned), they can find you just about anything, and I'll vouch that their prices are incredible.
  15. Changed out all three little gray 141951253B DME/fuel pump relays, the green AC 96461521500 relay (which updates to a smaller green relay 99965701890), and the Secondary Air Pump relay 99361511501. I didn't bother changing out the two spoiler relays or the starter relay. My rough start and chugging problems were instantly gone, so I'm happy that the relay replacement wasn't just another exercise in futility. However, it did absolutely nothing for the hanging idle situation.
  16. I know that if it's the CDR-220, any CDR-220 faceplate will work. You just have to punch in the radio's security code when you put it on. The codes are matched to the radio's serial number, not the faceplates. (If it is a CDR-220, PM me because I have an extra one in the closet with a broken CD player.)
  17. I ran the VIN and the option list says Tiptronic not manual as the ad says. Be very careful out there folks... Yeah, I noticed their description and the photos didn't match up.
  18. Houston Craigslist has been flooded with P-cars this week. I noticed this 05 this morning. http://houston.craigslist.org/ctd/1058946049.html
  19. I don't think so. There would have to be a vacuum leak for the intake to pull that much air through the EVAP system, and it would take a lot of evaporated fuel vapor to raise the idle like that. Plus, I don't think it would just shut off at 10 mph and not cause any effects when I am at a stop. I have new relays and a PST-2 on the way. Maybe I'll have a breakthrough this weekend.
  20. It's not just the amount of tread on the tire, it's the characteristics of the tires such as tread pattern, sidewall flex, etc. The car is going to handle better if all the tires are displayed the same performance attributes. Personally, I wouldn't worry about the tread wear. Rear tires seem to wear out so much faster than fronts, so after a few thousand miles, they'll probably catch up to the fronts. Then after a few more thousand, be more worn than the fronts. However, the point made about tire age is important. As tires age they get much more likely to come apart - especially at high speeds. If the tires are more than five years old, I'd replace them as the last thing you want is to throw the tread on a front tire at 100 mph and go careening into another lane or the retaining wall before you even know what's happened.
  21. The airflow over the MAF that Loren is speaking of is measured in mass, I think it's kg/minute, but I'm not sure. It's not the same as the intake air temperature, which is also measured by the MAF, but not by your cut wire.
  22. Moving the relays didn't fix the hanging idle problem but did add a rough start problem. However, after a few days of driving the car, the rough start has pretty much gone away. I'm wondering if the DME just had to recalibrate -- although it seems like it should have done it much faster. I'm still waiting on all the replacement relays to show up. I don't think they've even showed up to Sunset yet, much less shipped. I am getting a fault code now. It's P0446 Fault Code 95 - Shutoff valve activated charcoal filter (function). I got that code a couple months ago, cleared it, and it just came back this week. I don't know how it could be related to the hanging idle problem though.
  23. I took the car to Autozone at lunch as their testers check ripple -- although the guys there had never even heard the term before. The diodes checked out good. Everything in the charging system seems to be working perfectly. Back to the drawing board.
  24. This is just my opinion, but I think that the lower the mileage car, the less likely that the updates for all the little bugs have been made, i.e. that ghost window problem or the seatbelt sensors that were always triggering the airbag light. I also think the low mileage, rarely driven cars are more likely to have the RMS leaks occur because the seal dries out. Make sure you budget for updates and surprises.
  25. I have 105,000 miles on my 99. According to the PO's maintenance records it had two bad coils and one RMS replacement earlier in it's life but nothing major or that wouldn't be expected from any other model year 996. Of course, when it comes to advancement in cup holders, that's another story.
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