fpb111

http://www.ebay.com/...da1c900&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/...886dfe0&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-996-C2-C4-1998-2000-Key-Remote-1-Button-NEW-Genuine-/140881673258?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20cd33bc2a&vxp=mtr Contact Sunset Porsche they usually sell them for ~$130. Local dealer normally charges 1 hour labor to program. Bring any working keys with you they need them to make sure they don't delete a working key. If you only had one, buy two new transmitters and get them both programmed for same price.

Pretty much any aftermarket "performance" suspension that you put on it will make the ride firmer. Are you sure the suspension is stock? If you have 18" tires you can soften the ride by switching to 17". The higher sidewall will be a little more compliant. Even with 18s tire brands differ in sidewall stiffness and ride harshness.

The pointy things go on the BOTTOM?? Well no wonder...

tire dust burning off the mufflers. Worry when it stops smelling like rubber and starts to smell like steel belts.

Are you sure that the plastic end of the hook cover is still intact? Check the switch that the plastic part touches. Maybe broken/loose/displaced? If you put your finger/pencil in there and push the switch does it fool the car into thinking top is latched? Is that what you ment by "apply pressure with my finger"?

The button on the back releases it. That said it can be a bear to activate. Sometimes it helps to push the connector "on" as you push the release to ease the pressure on the latch then pull it off.

Sunset or Suncoast Porsche give discounts. Still Probably cost ~$130 for key head and ~100 to have dealer program it. Don't buy one from ebay, etc... unless it has the 17? digit code with it, or you will just have another key fob decoration.

You might want to check the power lead from the alternator to the + jumper junction in the engine compartment. There have been bad crimp connections that cause that wire to overheat and melt. That could be why your alternator doesn't seem to recharge the battery.

The ammeter needs to be in series to read current draw . Remove the neg battery cable. Hook the positive of the meter to the neg of the battery Hook the neg of the ammeter to the neg battery cable. Don't let the cable touch the post while you are doing this or you will not get a reading. Now the ammeter is in series and will be able to read the current passing through it. Don't try to start the car with it hooked up this way. You will fry the ammeter. Unless it has a huge capacity, like 60amps. If you open the frunk expose the battery put the ammeter on the windshield run the wires to the battery compartment hook up per above and see more than 60ma draw. , turn the ammeter to face inside of the car so that you can see it while pulling/replacing fuses, the meter will be right in front of you saving a lot of running around.

Probably not a DIY unless you have access to a 60 ton press. Read this thread. |/ http://forums.rennli...l-or-whine.html < this thread has much info in it, read it. /| This thread talks about pinion bearings read it for more info. These folks have a good rep on trans rebuilds. http://www.gboxweb.com/

That is why you get the sweet smell of 996 tire dust burning after a spirited run.

Is it a clunk? If so maybe trans mount is worn. If whine/howl then maybe pinion bearing. Read this thread: http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-forum/708796-so-your-996-transmission-is-starting-to-howl-or-whine.html

If you want to raise the rear windows when the top is down, stick your finger into where the front latch hooks and press the micro switch. You can raise the windows while you hold the switch closed. If you do this be careful getting into or out of the car while the windows are up. "You'll shoot your eye out kid"

Buy a set of Sumitomos Set of 4: $606.00

It is the Pull start for when the battery is dead.

I have also gently wedged a rubber kitchen spatula in between the fender & light assy to allow access to the release cable with a thin wire hook.

I used mine to purge my 2004 Mercedes after partial drain to change the water pump and it worked well. I did get a little "spitting" while pumping it down but it did not suck much fluid out.

Go to the top of the page and point to "DIY Tools" TSBs are in the drop down OOPS double post

I have had the panel off when removing my seat but never took the switches off the panel. The switches are mounted on the panel. Take the two screws out, let the panel drop a little slide it out and unplug the wires. Then you can get up close to see how the pull the switches off the panel.

James, This first three sound like a Boxster filler in the rear trunk. Here are steps given in the service manual for bleeding the air from the coolant system: 1. Consider covering the trunk with plastic in case of a coolant overflow. 2. Remove the radiator cap, oil filler cap, and dipstick. 3. Pop the cover trim plate off the filler access area. This reveals the bleeder valve. If you remove the little screw above the trim plate to do this, be extremely careful to not drop the screw into any of the filler necks. 4. Flip the bleeder valve locking clip up to release it. 5. If you have an automatic transmission, remove fuse B1 (the ATF cooler valve). 6. Fill with coolant up to the bottom edge of the filler neck. 7. With the engine idling, occasionally revving the engine, fill up with coolant until there's no more room when the engine is revved. (Revving may raise the level a bit.) 8. Replace radiator cap. 9. Warm up engine until you are sure the thermostat is open. 10 minutes at 2500 RPM should do it, and you should hear the radiator fans come on. 10. Run 5 more minutes at 2500 RPM, revving to 5000 RPM every 30 seconds. 11. Carefully open the radiator cap, and top up the coolant. 12. Replace the radiator cap. 13. Run 5 more minutes at 2500 RPM, revving to 5000 RPM every 30 seconds. 14. Idle until the radiator fans cycle on and off once. 15. Carefully open the radiator cap, and top up the coolant. 16. Put everything back the way it was.

Get the Just released 996 Bentley Manual available here. http://www.renntech.org/forums/spoffers/amazon/

Pics of Voltage reguletors. Notice that the brushes are part of the regulators.

Dry cell battery? Please expand that a little. These sites reference the different part numbers and various companies offer a replacement part for the Bosch part. These companies usually only have one part number and list ALL the Bosch numbers as equivalents. Here are a few of several possible sources of information. I would like to suggest that you google the part numbers yourself to double check. I have satisfied myself but I cannot guarantee 100%. I can tell you that my car is behaving perfectly with the F 00M 145 350 part. (Ref; http://www.woodauto.com/Component.aspx?Ref=VRG46473 OR http://www.mercedesshop.com/shopforum/archive/index.php/t-187174.html OR http://www.jnelectri...number=F00M1453 50&manufacturer=Bosch&description=Regulator%2C+Ele ctronic ) Finding a voltage regulator Through various sources I found and confirmed that the Bosch number for the regulator in the Porsche alternator is F-00M-145-225. It would appear that this part isn’t actually listed anywhere as a separate item, although I did manage to track one down on e-bay. All is not lost though, as the same part is available under different part numbers. Various websites cross reference the above part number with the regulator for various Volkswagens from the similar years as well as Audi’s and Mercedes. For reference a commonly available part seems to be the F-00M-145-350 or F-00M-145-341 for VW, Audi, and Mercedes which fit perfectly. These sites reference the different part numbers and various companies offer a replacement part for the Bosch part. These companies usually only have one part number and list ALL the Bosch numbers as equivalents. Here are a few of several possible sources of information. I would like to suggest that you google the part numbers yourself to double check. I have satisfied myself but I cannot guarantee 100%. I can tell you that my car is behaving perfectly with the F 00M 145 350 part. (Ref; http://www.woodauto.com/Component.aspx?Ref=VRG46473 OR http://www.mercedesshop.com/shopforum/archive/index.php/t-187174.html OR http://www.jnelectri...number=F00M1453 50&manufacturer=Bosch&description=Regulator%2C+Ele ctronic ) I suspect that the different vehicle manufacturers insist that Bosch supply parts with a unique part number or that Bosch manufacture identical parts in different locations and assign part numbers to each. If anyone can give me an informed answer to this or if they can tell me if there really is any difference between them I would LOVE to know!

"How much information is there on Targas? The manual would be worth the price even if it could only tell me how to adjust the back window so it doesn't squeak in the winter." coupe, targa, cab, Year etc...?

ask this on rennlist.com Logray has just completed a rebuild that sounds like what you are doing. http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-forum/644150-1-rebuilt-engine-1-month-and-325-pictures-later.html