Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

PTEC

Members
  • Content Count

    567
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by PTEC

  1. Thats actually the tail of the transmission, the flange on the end is for the cardan shaft on a Carrera 4 which heads up to the front differential. Anyways, as has been mentioned already, the only electrical connector on the transmission is for the reverse light switch.
  2. You could try calling your dealer with your serial number to see if they will call Porsche to get the radio code for you... To get the serial number, power up the unit and hold down the "TP" button for like 10 seconds. The unit will beep, use the knob to scroll over a few times and you'll see a seven digit number, preceded by a letter. Take that number down and call your dealer with it.
  3. Without getting too in depth. TRA is your idle range. In this range your your injection time (in ms/rev) is changed (Additively) upon the results of oxygen sensing. Using the PIWIS tester, your TRA numbers can vary from 0 plus or minus .40 before the check engine light will illuminate. FRA is your load range (to a certain extent, no adaption is performed at high engine load and/or engine speed.) In this range the pre-control injection time is changed (multiplicative) by a percentage based upon the results of oxygen sensing. FRA numbers can deviate plus or minus .25 from 1 before illuminating the check engine light.
  4. What year turbo do you have? I recently ran into a 01 turbo with 33k miles on it, throwing a misfire code for cylinder #2. Spark plugs on 01 and older cars are only rated for 30k miles. I pulled the plugs for cylinders number one and two and holy crap, they were awful looking. We replaced his plugs and the misfires went away. I would lean towards your problem being plug related. I would recommend taking a look at your plugs, cylinder number one is accessible without removing anything but the heat shield ( 2 10mm bolts). You'll also need a 5 or 6mm (cant remember which)allen socket to remove the coil.
  5. The resistor is a small capsule like tube(maybe 3-4 inches long) that has a few green and black wires running into it (I cant remember exactly). Its pretty easy to find if you look up from underneath at the area behind the radiators.
  6. For what its worth, Porsche does not use either of these terms. Fuel trim is a generic term used by mostly domestic car companys and ends up in most generic OBD2 code readers. Were you to look in your DME with a PST2/PIWIS tester you would not find the words long term or short term anywhere. I dont know this for sure but I believe the generic OBD2 scanners are renaming FRA's and TRA's (Porsches oxygen sensing adaption terms.)
  7. Theres is a service action related to wind noises from the upper part of the door, its a redesigned trim panel that goes in the upper rear most portion of your door frame. If your trim underneath the drivers seat isnt fitting properly, they should be able to get you a new one under warranty. Theres also a service action related to windshield wipers deteriorating quickly so they should be able to replace those for you.
  8. What causes you to suspect you have a leaking injector?
  9. Where else but in Canada do they drive on the left but have metric measurements?
  10. That fault could mean that your cat is on the way out. Your DME compares the readings from your o2 sensor before the cat and the o2 sensor after the cat to make sure the cat is working properly. If the the readings dont vary enough then it will set a fault. Does the car have an aftermarket exhaust on it? My car (04 Subaru WRX) has a catless aftermarket exhaust on it and I get this CEL because the lack of cats makes the rear o2 sensor freak out because its not seeing any change from the readings of the front o2 sensor. The CEL could have been cleared before it was sold to you and has just now popped back up.
  11. That sounds like a classic brake switch failure. Are your brake lights always on? This doesnt sound like an unsolvable problem.
  12. Going into audio and choose "mute," that should work for ya. Or are you saying that if the PCM is off and you turn it back on the music will start playing even after choosing 'mute" the last time the unit was on?
  13. I've installed a set of these and they kind of a bugger. It took me a while to figure out which went where actually. The fronts are a bit harder to install than the rears.
  14. Im not 100 percent sure but I believe its stamped on the bottom either on the oil pan or right above it. I've seen it before but I cant remember right now.
  15. While doing this, make sure you don't get gasoline in your pits, yeow that burns.
  16. This is the best tool you'll find for taking out the ignition switch. The factory tool is rediculous and much too big. Pop that air duct out and you'll have the ign switch out in no time.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.