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Stefan

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Everything posted by Stefan

  1. Stefan
    Here's one: http://www.ppbb.com/phorum/read.php?14,154...186#msg-1548186
  2. Stefan
    I would think that if the leak was in the sending unit area you would be able to smell it with the windows up (and the vent open).
  3. Stefan
    That is my DIY for the radiator fan on PPBB (new link - http://www.ppbb.com/phorum/read.php?6,1509...04#msg-1509504). With this hack, the fan will go on automatically; no need to fuss with a switch. The procedure is identical for the 996. You remove the relay, put in a jumper wire, reinstall the relay.
  4. Stefan
    You can try resetting the windows by briefly disconnecting the battery. But before you do that make sure you have your radio code. And also don't worry if the car runs rough for a few minutes while it relearns the mixture adaptation parameters.
  5. Stefan
    You should definitely let the car sit overnight before replacing the fuel filter. And note that just turning the ignition on without even starting the car will pressurize the system.
  6. Stefan
    Here's what I would do: Start your car, put your finger on the relevant low-speed fan relay, and turn on the A/C. After a brief delay, you should be able to feel the relay click. If the relay clicks, then you can check to see if voltage is being sent to the front of the car. There is a connector behind the carpeting on each side of the front trunk that connects the relay to the ballast resistor. You can test for voltage there. If there is voltage at the connector in the front and the ballast resistor is new and installed correctly, then the fan is not working and you will probably need to replace it. I don't have the wiring diagrams for the 996 (I own a 986) so perhaps someone can chime in with the correct connector pin that carries the electricity to the fan.
  7. Stefan
    I disagree with this. I have been saved many times from laser by my high-mounted V1. When a car up ahead is hit with the laser, reflections of the beam can be detected from a fair distance. If your front plate gets hit with laser, it is already too late.
  8. Stefan
    Why did you remove the front bumper? That is not necessary for this job. If you pull back the wheel well lining you can get at the connector and access to the resistor itself is from underneath (even with the bumper in place).
  9. Stefan
    Sounds just like what I said a few responses up. ;)
  10. Stefan
    I would try removing the electrical portion on the back of the old lock and see if the key can then be inserted.
  11. Stefan
    The stock mounts only last for between 40k and 50k miles. I got one of Pedro's mounts and I expect it will last much much longer. It is clearly more sturdy than stock.
  12. Stefan
    The rear backing plate also serves to hold the spring for the parking brake so you can't just remove it.
  13. Stefan
    I just completed this job and I have a trick that makes the job a lot easier. If you remove the instrument cluster (~5 minutes) and unscrew the plastic piece just under the cluster, you have full access to the entire right side of the lock cylinder, including the bolt and nut that people are scraping their hands trying to get at. Using this trick, you also have access from both sides so putting things back together is much easier since you can use both hands or whichever is easier.
  14. Stefan
    That's not quite true. The fans will go on high speed if the coolant temp is above 216°F or if the freon pressure is above 16 bar.
  15. Stefan
    It is measuring the mass of air flowing through the intake tube. It is likely grams/second. It is supposed to be between 4.44 and 5 at idle with the engine warm.
  16. Stefan
    Try unplugging your MAF and see if the problem goes away. If so, it's likely that the CAI destroyed your MAF. I recommend putting the stock intake back in.
  17. Stefan
    I had the same problem and the eventual solution was to use a big pry bar with one hand and hit it with a solid hammer with the other. It still took quite a bit of effort.
  18. Stefan
    I had a similar problem on my 986 and it turned out to be play in the ball joint on the lower control arm. If I grabbed the rotor and wiggled it I could feel a small amount of play. But when driving, it made the car awfully wiggly, as you describe.
  19. Stefan
    Start with the things that are easiest to diagnose. The problem is likely one or two bad ballast resistors. With the car not hot, turn on the A/C and verify that both front radiator fans go on. If not, then that's the problem.
  20. Stefan
    The problem with your car could very easily be the ignition switch. I recently fixed a car that had the same symptom and a new ignition switch (just the $8 electrical portion) fixed the problem completely.
  21. Stefan
    Not to beat a dead horse but my hack makes the high speed fan come on whenever the low speed would have (i.e. A/C on or temp > 206°F). High speed normally runs when the temp is at 215°F.
  22. Stefan
    With my mod, the low fan speed is replaced with high fan speed. It should generally make the car run cooler. With the A/C on the fans are normally low speed (until the coolant temp gets above 206°F). With my hack, and the A/C on the fans will run at high speed all of the time.
  23. Stefan
    You're supposed to disconnect the coolant hoses on the bottom of the car to drain the last bit of fluid. I just squeeze the hoses repeatedly to get it out but to be completely thorough you really should disconnect the hoses.
  24. Stefan
    The OE Bosch MAF is available for your car for $170 from AutoHausAz. How much was the Chinese unit and what is the brand?
  25. Stefan
    Old box spring sound in the rear is usually the lower control arm. There's no fix short of replacement I've ever heard of for that.
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