txhokie4life

My mechanic would charge about $1750 to do the IMS/RMS and standard 996 Clutch replacement. M

Taking our time, pictures, and being very cautious it took us <2 hours. We could have easily done it in <1hr. We already had the engine on a stand so that makes it easier. Haven't tried it with the engine in the car yet. www.lnengineering.com to order. m

You don't want that water pump to take your engine with it -- replace it now! Mike '00S rebuild due to water pump @ 33.5K miles.

It's pretty easy. Just pop open the head and swap out the blade and pill. Here is a link to Pelican parts tech answers with pictures. Hope it helps. GW Changing remote head exactly what I was looking for -- this is what I thought had to be done -- but figured I'd ask before I ruined a costly item. thank you very much! m

trying to figure out how to swap a blade or a pill without destroying old or new one. thanks, mike

I believe the RFID receiver is located in the steering column -- does the FOB actually have to be connected to the key in the ignition (i.e. is there some interaction between the key and the ignition and the RFID electrically?) or is it sufficient to just be close to the steering wheel? Anyone know the range of the RFID? thanks, mike

Just rigged up a system as described here -- worked like a charm -- be prepared for the inevitable connection leak. Total cost under $40 from Lowes.... Mike

Bought a 2000 2.7L with an automatic transmission issue -- got a water logged nightmare in hiding. The IMMOB literally disintegrated in my hands when I removed it from its housing. I have pulled the entire interior, convertible top assembly, and all carpet, padding, liners have been gutted. Found the source of the water leaks -- and will address. Now on to my real issues. I had purchased a triplate of a IMMOB/DME/FOB for an engine stand I was considering to build. This was from OKLAHOMA Foreign so I figured it was indeed a set and that it worked. I swapped out the DME, and put in the IMMOB. It has a FOB with no key -- so I was just using the keys that came with the car in the ignition. The FOB will give me 2 horn beeps, and the red light on the front dash will blink. I can also raise/lower the windows -- so some of the IMMOB functions are working. However when I turn the keys -- I get nothing. Engine does not even fire the starter. So I don't know if the IMMOB and DME are happy -- I have yet to hook up the Durametric. But it is in the plans to do so soon. The climate control seems to be flickering -- and will not run -- seems almost like it has a short. I can goto auto or up and down fan control -- but it is almost like it resets itself everytime the blower runs. I do not know if this is colateral damage or related to the car being unhappy with the IMMOB/DME setup. I know this is a lot to digest -- I'm just struggling with what to do next. I'd like to prove the engine will fire before I buy a complete new IMMOB/FOB and have it programmed. Especially since I will have to flatbed it to the dealership. thanks for any help, Mike

Have to see it in person -- but it looks pretty cool with the pictures.... What did a complete paint job run you? m

Excellent -- oil in coolant is much better than coolant in oil. Anti-freeze can be pretty harsh on bearings and what not inside the engine. That is why for my Intermix -- I tore the engine completely down. mike

If I pull the connector and connect a scope -- what would I expect to see on the connector side? On the sensor side? thanks, Mike

If in doubt -- stick in a turkey baster and suck some coolant out and look at it. mike

I would suspect that you would have intermix (oil in the coolant or vis versa) I would perform a compression test first. You could also pull the plug and boroscope it as you turn the engine by hand to expose as much of the cylinder wall as you can see -- but it still might be hard to see. mike

<note we figured out which bank is Camshaft Sensor 2 -- but I couldn't change topic name> 99 2.5L Tip Just swapped engines and rebuilt the top end. Trying to get it to start..... cranks, but no go. Have spark and fuel pressure (have not checked fuel injectors) < Just found out that it started for a couple seconds then died out, won't start again > No CEL but 3 codes P1602 (yes the battery has been disconnected :-) P0102 MAF -- we've cleaned it - might have to swap it. P1397 -- Camshaft Position Sensor -2 Bank 4-6 Camshaft Position Sensor was swapped with one from another engine -- but still same response and code. Possible both are bad (1st one and swapped one?) Suggestions: thx, Mike

weak battery? weak power connection? (I had the connection to the engine loose) weak gnd connection? (mine was a loose/rusted connection under the I had something like this happen when I was working on one of my Boxsters -- all of the above was occurring and had similar symptoms. All the loose connections on my part were due to me working on things in progress -- not caused by normal activity. mike

I'm fighting a similar issue -- Note if the top has been replaced -- in one of my Boxsters it was -- they installer forgot to install the tube to the tube :-( So the water must have been pooling and then seeped between the two layers -- then down into the cabin. The alarm system is toast -- I was amazed at the corrosion! I've completely pulled the interior -- took the opportunity to repaint the center console! I haven't gotten to the horseshoe material yet. mike

Where is the fill hole located??? See the original posters picture with the copper tube sticking out the bottom? Unless you are talking about the final drive fill bolt -- than that is just in front of the drive axel on the passenger side. mike

I just broke my passenger mount point for my windstop..... Can you order just one of the mount points? mike

I'll be happy to charge my standard consult fee Since you split the difference -- we'll share two mugs :cheers:

Add a waterpump to your list as well.

Split the difference -- or get something tossed in -- and drive her home! m

If you have a lift and an engine jack -- then I would take it out -- much easier to work on -- and probably more importantly you can check a whole lot more and more effectively and fix anything else that comes up. If you are capable of all what you are going to do -- dropping the engine and putting it on a engine stand would probably save you knuckles and heartache. mike

the tubes are pretty easy -- but I don't know how hard it is with the engine still in the car. I suspect removing the tubes will be hard -- but putting them in is as simple as pressing them in and then gently tapping them until flush with the cam cover holes. m

Am I looking at the hex pin from the IMS to the oil pump? thanks, Mike

In Texas I find that cars usually speed up at red lights ...... Sorry -- couldn't resist. M