txhokie4life

I would agree -- and the thermostat is on the other side. Might want to get yourself one of those 4 wheeler skid plates while your at it...... Have to be cheaper than all these parts you keep tearing into! That or a sheet of plywood :-) Some folks leave a bread trail, others dripping oil, you'd have sawdust to follow home :-) mike

+++3 -- lower miles newer car for 10% -- no brainer -- oh and you like the color. A year from now you'll never miss that $3k but you'll still love the car. mike

I believe (tho I have not checked myself -- always forget to do so) there is an engine number stamped on the bottom of the engine. This can be decoded to determine exactly what type and year the engine really is. Now if someone has swapped out parts -- who knows -- I do not know if the coil paks are somehow particular to a certain DME version -- but if they are -- you can check them by finding a part number on them and figuring out what engine/DME they should be with. It is really easy to grab the wrong coil paks -- at least between a 2.5L and a 3.6L -- they are physically interchangeable, although different part numbers -- I caught myself -- so I don't know if incorrectly installed would mimic you failure mode. thanks, m

Sounds like this will be quite an adventure :-) I assume the keys -- and do you mean key or fob? is transmitting via RFID -- can you read the IPAS codes off of them by some RFID reader? Just to be clear -- the FOB contains the pill which is the RFID unit -- or does the FOB? I'm sure I'll have a few more questions as I get into this project -- but thank you for your help. mike

Where would I find the IPAS codes? Since I bought this car used -- I'm not sure I have the IPAS codes -- and I'm sure the Immob with the car now is DOA -- I've never seen a computer board look quite this bad. Massive oxidation and corrosion. No chance it is good. I do have the radio code tags -- I'll check to see if the IPAS codes are there -- what do they look like? BTW, define working keys -- there are two --- both physically work (i.e.open door, turn ignition), only one has a FOB unit which I was told was new -- but likely never programmed. Lets assume worst case scenario -- no IPAS codes, Immob fried -- then what? If I can acquire a used but working Immob and can read its IPAS codes -- can it be programmed to work with the current keys, and then the current DME programmed to match the newly acquired Immob? thanks for your help, Mike

Got a Boxster that I bought that would not start. Was told that the key/fob was new(er) and that it was either never synched or the computer forgot the code. Classic answers when buying a car.... Price was right -- so I bought it anyways. Long story short -- I came to pull the front seat due to water from the rain we've been receiving. Immob was soaked figured it has to be toast -- I pulled it and opened it up -- (I'll post pictures soon) but the whole circuit board is corroded -- obviously not its first under water excusion --- No wonder it "lost the programming". So -- I'm trying to figure out just what I need to do. I can pick up another Immob -- but I believe I need to get the current FOB and DME mated to the Immob -- which can only be done at the dealership. I also have a FOB/Immob/DME for the same model that came from the same year car that is supposed to be a set. No key tho -- just the FOB. Does the FOB or the key, have the pill that is required to start it? My plan of attack is to use the 2nd set to make sure the car is otherwise in running condition, but then pick up a used Immob and get the current (i.e. the one with the car now) FOB/DME mated to this new (to me) Immob. Just wanted to make sure I don't have to do something special with the keys..... thank for following along my sordid tale, Mike

I think the ones that they were referring to in the manual are torx head bolts that connect the cover to the pump itself. So there are 8 bolts, 4 outside (10mm) and 4 inside (T25?). The T25s have mini washers, and what looks to be a mini-oring or something. These would be exposed directly to the oil on the business side of the pump oring. Mike

Hi. I tried *again*. ;-) This time I used a little sealant next to the new Oring. I used a non-setting sealant called Hylomar Universal Blue. New bolts, torqued to ~12 nm. Stayed dry for a couple of days, now it leaks again (though only very little so far). 'didn't know what else to do so I ordered a new pump, I'll try again with that. Even minor oil leaks annoy the heck out of me. where exactly is the leak coming from? I just installed two pumps back in an engine I am working on yesterday (let hope they don't leak), The pump itself was a really tight fit. Is it leaking around the outside -- or from the micro encapsulated bolts (the torx head ones). Manual says to replace them each time you redo the oil pump. mike

These bolts hold the timing. The timing is set with special pins from Porsche (I don't remember the part/tool #). when the screws of these special pins are flush (if you have the tool you'll know what I mean) then the timing is set --- you then tighten these bolts to 14 ft lbs of torque. I just did this a couple days ago. I'm surprised that these bolts along with the slotted nature of the cross are able to hold the timing, but that is how it is designed. Mike

The difficulty is that it is next to impossible to diagnose whether the leak is from the IMS or the RMS without pulling the transmission. If you intend to keep the car long term it may be advisable to inspect. It would make more sense if you were close to needing a clutch job, which would require the same labor. Regards, Maurice. and do the IMS Retrofit and RMS while you are at it.......

I realize that is there anything else i should look at?? also is it very difficult to replace the case ? thanks Dean <note I'm not familiar with Turbo's -- but on non-turbo 996s....> If it is the case -- and Loren means the engine casing -- than your only realistic choice is to probably have it welded. The oil "pan"/case is part of the entire engine block/casing. If it is the cover and just the cover -- you might get away with either welding it or replacing it. I would see if you can locate the leak by putting the car on ramps and pulling the cover (ground effects cover, not oil pan cover) below the oil pan/case and trying to see if you can locate the source of the leak or any obvious physical damage. Before turning the engine over (even if it is to drive up some ramps) -- make sure you have sufficient oil. m

Maybe a PITA -- but consider making an interface connector for the two plugs?

they are also engraved on the block -- under the intakes, should be visible from the top of the engine compartment..... on your car closest to rear -- drivers side. m

I did it myself -- but it was from Charles at LNEngineering. mike

Check out my projects -- the first one is my every day driver and now is approaching 7000 miles on the rebuilt engine. 2000 Boxster S rebuild 99 IMS Failure Mike

Oh those 16 yr olds can be had for about $50 by buying the Turbo applique at the dealership :-) M

Are there any engine issues to be wary of -- anything like the issues the M96 engines have? Is there a buyers guide to Cayennes like there is for Boxsters? We have a Volvo XC90 Sport ready to be returned from Lease and are looking for something with a more permenant home..... Although the 3rd row issue may nix the Cayenne, I'd like to explore my options. thanks, Mike

It is my understanding that there is a programmed security code in the DME that matches the immobilizer CPU. The FOB is also matched to the set. I think you can get the car brought to a dealership and have the set programmed to talk to each other..... I do not know the cost of that. thanks, Mike

Not sure about the turning, but if the oring is not sufficient -- Is there any surface blemishes? Maybe using a "backup" gasket where you use the same material they put on for the oil sump cover. I'll be out at the shop tonite -- and look to see if that is even possible. m

Get the IMS retrofit -- if your tranny is out -- it is a DIY. m

Wow, thank you for the information. I actually have a small glimmer of hope now, which is great (although I am still fearing the worst)! I spent last Saturday flushing as much of the coolant system as I could with gallons and gallons of water, running the car for a bit, draining, repeating, etc. I still find oil coming out in the water, but not as much as the first couple of times I did it. Also, on the positive side I drained a bit of oil and did not see any coolant in it. I'm not sure how obvious that is, but I assume it would look like the coffee color that vented. Did your car ever vent or blow oil? Not sure if I mentioned it before, but I know my low oil light was flashing after the second vent on the day it overheated. I've never heard of oil being vented but maybe it could be if there was some kind of leak in the oil cooler? I did not get a low oil light during the first vent, only after the overheating and second vent. The only part that was (supposedly) replaced after the venting/overheating was a blown heater valve. I am positive that they did some other work too that they didn't tell me about because the car no longer had the whining noise and the oil reservoir was magically full when I picked it up. I haven't driven the car for about two weeks, since I brought it home from the shop, just ran it for a few minutes here and there in the driveway while trying to flush the coolant system and checking for more oil. Is there any easy way to determine if the oil cooler may have been replaced, or conversely if it has a leak? Thanks for your help! Have you checked the oil to see if there is coolant in there? If you have a catastophic oil/water mix -- it will likely be in both. If not then it would support what tstover has suggested that the oil cooler is to blame. m

There is a recent DIY for the water pump. other than time and a few $, it would at least eliminate a common problem. m

I'm a first time poster...02 Boxster has the same issue, CEL light came on but my wife still drove the car for another day. Not at start-up I get lots of white smoke that smells like burning rubber. I'm thinking it's the AOS, how did you fix your issue? Thanks, John :welcome: If your CEL is on you need to have the fault code(s) read and report them back here. There are several hundred faults that can turn the CEL on so without the actual fault codes everything is just a wild guess. I just went to the Autozone to borrow thier INNOVA 3120 scanner and received a P1128 code. Don't know how correct it is but the scan was free. For $88 I ordered the AOS from Sunset and will try to replace it using the DIY guides. I hope it fixes the problem. What do you think? Be sure to clean out the throttle body when you do the AOS. When the AOS goes -- it sprays oil back into the system via the throttle body (so clean out the tube connecting to the throttle body as well). I've been "lucky" that all my engine work has been outside the confines of the car -- so I don't know how easy/hard a repair that will be due to space limitations. -- simple with the engine out. mike

If you really wanted to be sure -- check the serial number on the bottom of the engine. Somewhere around here -- there is a pointer to exactly where that is located. mike

Try Jake Raby I pinged him -- Busy guy tho -- hope he gets in touch soon. Mike Jake's the man --- he emailed me 1.690-1.700 for both exhaust and intake. Figure I would post it here in the unlikely event someone else needs it and can find this thread in the archives. cheers, Mike