1999Porsche911

Bad relief valve or bad sending unit are common causes. Do not assume that your gauge is accurate. What is your warm idle pressure? Idle is about 4.5. What does the relief valve look like? I have a feeling mine's leaking oil. Actually, I just spoke to a guy from PCA and they told me that the dealerships are running 0w40 now for these cars, so i guess being in hot Texas and running 15w50 is going to bring the oil pressure up a little bit. My manual said 15w50. That's probably the problem. I'll let you guys know if it's anything else. Thanks a lot for your help. Even running a straight 60 weight conventional oil will not produce REAL pressures that high on a warm engine. It is not the oil, but either a mechanical problem, sensor/gauge error or blockage.

Bad relief valve or bad sending unit are common causes. Do not assume that your gauge is accurate. What is your warm idle pressure?

You can test the circuit by warming up the car and then pulling the 2 wire connector off the sensor. Fan should start immediately and then stop when reconnected. If it does not start, disconnect the connector at the fan and test for voltage when the sensor is not connected. If there is voltage, problem is fan motor....if no voltage, then fan is fine and fault is either fuse or harness. It would NOT be the sensor.

The nipple that comes out straight from the solenoid goes to the vacuum reserve tank under the intake on the left side. To test this connection, there should be a vacuum when the engine is running. The other tube coming out of the right angled nipple goes directly to the butterfly valve on the back intake tube. You can test this connection by apply suction to the tube and you will hear the butterfly move. This solenoid is attached to a clip above and behind the alternator.

You may very well have a good cap. I still run the orginal 00 part with no leaks.

What quantity of antifreeze is needed to do a complete vacuum flush? Can I just use the 50/50 mix for the entire refill process or do I need distilled water as well? It takes 6 gallons. Just go to the auto store and buy 6 gallons of PEAK EXTENDED antifreeze 50/50 mix.

The O2 sensors are simply reporting that your engine is running too lean. You wouldn't replace your smoke detecter in your house just because it went off because of a fire, would you? Check for leaks in the intake system, including vacuum lines and throttlebody connections. Make sure your oil filler cap is sealed properly. Are you running the stock air filter? According to the fault codes it is a Type 4 Short to B+/above upper limit/rich mixture threshold. This seems to not be a lean problem. Maybe it is. I checked the oil fill cap and all is well. I am running a stock air filter. Is there any good starting place on the vacuum system? Thanks, Ed The code definately indicates a LEAN mixture passing by the sensors. Because it is BOTH sensors, it is unlikely (but still possible) that it is fuel injectors, plugs or exhaust because the problem is with both banks on the engine. Having a scanner that shows various sensor readings would make the job easier. It could be a dirty MAF. fuel pressure problems, fuel pump problem, or anything that will either reduce the amount of fuel to the engine or anything that will increase the air to the engine after it has been measured by the MAF, such as an intake leak or vacuum line leak or a leaking oil seperator. Before I did anything, I would eliminate it being a fluke and reset the codes by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes. (make sure you have your radio code). Throw in some fuel injector cleaner and run through a tank of gas and see if the codes come back. Make sure your idle control valve and throttlebody are cleaned.

The O2 sensors are simply reporting that your engine is running too lean. You wouldn't replace your smoke detecter in your house just because it went off because of a fire, would you? Check for leaks in the intake system, including vacuum lines and throttlebody connections. Make sure your oil filler cap is sealed properly. Are you running the stock air filter?

I would remove and clean the idle control valve (ICV) with car cleaner. Throttlebody cleaning wouldn't hurt either.

If, while engine running you are getting 13V+ at the battery terminals, then the problem is your battery. Get a new one for $50.

So you go to the factory and have them leave it out of your car as this is what is delivered in the new car?...seems like the biggest waste of time and money for a mod I have ever heard. My favorite mod...exhaust (Europipe Stage 2), then GT3 seats...the rest were fun as well. Actually, the best of the 996 models (99/C2) came factory filled with 15W50. :lol:

My favorite mod and probably the most beneficial to the longevity and performance of the car is to make sure you never allow Mobil 0W40 touch the engine. It is ok to use for squeaky hinges and the like, but it is poisonous if taken internally and like a laxative, it may cause loose stools. :rolleyes:

Sorry for my ignorance, but what does that mean exactly? It means that your coolant temperature is 215F+ when the gauge is sitting just to the right side of the "0" in 180.

Typically, with the needle to the right of the "0", your coolant is sitting at 215F+.

Nice that you replaced the valve but it will play absolutely no part in reducing your coolant temperatures. Airflow increase is the only way to reduce the temperature.

Most likely there is too little coolant in the tank. Make sure you properly purge air from the system. It may take several fills of the tank to do so. Best way is to park the car after driving it with the nose down and the purge valve open, or drive around with the valve open.

Pull off the wheelwell liner on the front right and you'll see the evap cannister beneath the gas filler tube.

Could be a few things but likely a broken spring or 2 on the flywheel. Only opening it up will tell.

Most likely coolant replacing air that was in the system. Top is off and see what happens.

Great! What do they charge to program it?

If in fact the the car is misfiring because of too much fuel, it is easy to reduce the amount of fuel the computer sends to the engine. Get yourself a $200 scanner so you can see what you are doing. Thanks for the input it has given me some direction here. It seems that programming the basic settings in the DME for my type car needs to be accomplished using Porsha. A lowcost scanner will not accomplish this task unless I am missing something hear and while the car is in there to have them put in a GIAC map and clear any error codes. I would like to know what scanner/software can be used in changing the fuel settings if this is how you do it. A scanner will not change the fuel settings, but will show you what they are doing. Modifying specific sensor inputs to the dme WILL modify the fuel settings to what is right. You have to know what the fuel is doing first. I would be surprised if a Boxter dme can be programmed to mirror the dme for your car. Might be cheaper to just buy a new one. But, keep us posted.

If in fact the the car is misfiring because of too much fuel, it is easy to reduce the amount of fuel the computer sends to the engine. Get yourself a $200 scanner so you can see what you are doing.

I thought you had the car running and this is why you know it misfires????? Any scanner that will show you a live readout of the various sensors that feed the dme will work. As for whether the Turbo program will work, the are alot of differences, not only in the fuel maps but with timing, load, rpm limit, etc that may not work with your setup. Why not just get GIAC to sell you the standard SC program?

Have you looked at what the fuel is doing when the engine is running. You will easily see if fuel is balanced with air intake with a scanner. Look at what the timing is running at as well as engine load. You don't needto reprogram to reduce the amount of fuel entering the engine.

The EVOM S/C is a simple, problem free way to obtain substantial power gains in your car. It's conservative amount of boost is very safe and is far less that what the 3.4 engine can handle. The car will continue to drive like stock and the power gain is linear as engine rpm's increase.