1999Porsche911

Sure there is. The method that I describe which is done day in and day out in every Porsche workshop world-wide. Keep in mind that the time that the car is being supported this way is just the time necessary (like a minute or two) to get the rear jack stands under the car. This process subjects the engine and motor mounts to far less stress that the they receive under normal road use. Because of this short duration there is absolutely not an issue. Keep in mind that the engine is normally hanging off of the chassis by the rear motor mounts, and the lifting of the engine simply puts compression on these mounts in exactly the same way that they get compressed in normal road use (like when the car hits a bump, or is driven on rough roads). Now some will chime in that after lifting their car this way, that they experienced a ruptured motor mount. In those cases, the mount was going to fail anyway due to operational fatigue and it better that the mount failed during maintenance rather than unexpectedly where it might not be discovered for many miles. No all, as well as NO Porsche dealer I have ever seen, raises the rear of the car using the engine. Additionally, no road or track operation will ever exert the 1000+ pounds of pressure on the motor mounts as jacking the car by the engine will. Porsche specifically states "never lift the vehicle by the engine, transmission or axles".

Sure there is. The method that I describe which is done day in and day out in every Porsche workshop world-wide. Keep in mind that the time that the car is being supported this way is just the time necessary (like a minute or two) to get the rear jack stands under the car. This process subjects the engine and motor mounts to far less stress that the they receive under normal road use. Because of this short duration there is absolutely not an issue. Keep in mind that the engine is normally hanging off of the chassis by the rear motor mounts, and the lifting of the engine simply puts compression on these mounts in exactly the same way that they get compressed in normal road use (like when the car hits a bump, or is driven on rough roads). Now some will chime in that after lifting their car this way, that they experienced a ruptured motor mount. In those cases, the mount was going to fail anyway due to operational fatigue and it better that the mount failed during maintenance rather than unexpectedly where it might not be discovered for many miles. How about the round jack pad adapters...are they necessary? Please advise... No.

I would love to see ANY documentation that Porsche approves of lifting the back of the car using engine mounts for support. Just because the techs do it, does not mean it is correct. There is no way to "properly" lift the car using a free hanging engine.

I've heard of busted motor mounts when trying to lift the back of the car this way. Any truth or experience with this? Also, is it necessary to use the round jack pad adapters? Please advise... Rotor Never lift their car using the engine as a jack point. Use the cross member in front of the engine if you need to lift both back wheels off the ground at the same time.

Air in the hydraulic system will make any vibration more pronounced in the pedal. Remove the air and see if it gets better. It won't eliminate the cause of the vibration, but you may find that the vibration is within specs and is no longer felt in the pedal.

A bad coolant temperature sensor will also cause your idle to stay high. Remove the cable and clean the contacts. Inexpensive item to replace.

Don't fix what isn't broken. The majority of 996's out there have their original, DRY RMS seal. If it is dry, leave it alone. SACHS makes the stock clutch kit. If the dealer has a good price, go with it, otherwise there are many places to order the SACHS from.

I run mufflers from an 2003 C4S on my 99 C2 and they fit perfectly. You just have to use the 99 mounting brackets.

That's what I would do first.

Brake and clutch fluid are the same. Same reservoir.

Grounding the relay for the fan (driverside footwell) with key on will test the entire circuit. Unplugging the fan and feeding it 12 volts will test the fan.

There is no bad acid produced without water or depletion of acid neutralizers in the oil.. A fully warm engine will evaporate the moisture produced by combustion that may get to the crankcase via blow by.

Unless you regularly drive your car for short trips and the engine regularly never reaches full operating temperature, you will have no dangerous acids in your oil. Acids are created when water is allowed to mix with the oil. Driving regularly at full operating temperature eliminates this risk.

I have always thought that changing the oil before storage just to change it again when you bring it out again to be a waste of time and money. When you store the car, your primary concern regarding oil is to have as little moisture in it as possible. This is accomplished by running the engine at full temperature for some time and then shutting it down in as dry an environment you can find. Personally, I add a full quart of a straight mineral oil to the crankcase (40 or 50 weight), run the engine to full temperature and just store it with whatever oil is in the engine and change it in the spring.

Why would you get any oil on the MAF when I suggested sucking the oil into the intake? The intake begins at the throttlebody. I did not suggest putting oil in the air cleaner.

There is no risk to the engine or emission system. Very common practice which has been done for more than 40 years. It's the same as adding Marvel Mystery Oil to the engine.

No need to do that. If you want the cylinder wall coated because you will not be starting the car, suck some tranny fluid into the intake at idle and shut her down.

Never lift the car by the engine.

Trak Auto doesn't allow people to use their OBDII to check CEL's anymore, but it has been P1121 consistently in the past. Well, if that is the only code you ever get, you don't have a fuel/air problem but a heating problem with the after-cat O2 sensor on bank 2. Check the wires on the sensor and repair or replace the sensor. Are there instructions on how to do that? Can you direct me to the right place? Thanks. Loren corrected me above. That code is for older 996 than yours. Read his post.

Trak Auto doesn't allow people to use their OBDII to check CEL's anymore, but it has been P1121 consistently in the past. P1121 Throttle position sensor 1 - signal implausible Throttle position sensor 1 - below limit Throttle position sensor 1 - above limit Possible fault cause: - Open circuit in wiring - Short circuit in wiring - Throttle position sensor faulty - DME control module faulty Oops. Looked at the codes for my 99 and not his 02.

Trak Auto doesn't allow people to use their OBDII to check CEL's anymore, but it has been P1121 consistently in the past. Well, if that is the only code you ever get, you don't have a fuel/air problem but a heating problem with the after-cat O2 sensor on bank 2. Check the wires on the sensor and repair or replace the sensor.

Get your codes read first to confirm it is a rich condition at idle.

Not knowing what codes your computer is throwing, it is common and should be accepted that increasing the airflow to the engine which the K&N filter does will cause the O2 sensor to throw a code when the computer has not been properly modified. This does not mean that your O2 sensors are bad or that your MAF is bad but just that the amount of fuel mixture passing by the O2 sensors it too rich for the computer. Sensors vary in their sensitivity and can throw a code when another sensor does not. Most likely the CEL is caused by one of the sensors falling outside it's range at idle (p1123 or P1125 or both). These codes are telling you that the exhaust has too rich of a fuel mixture and the sensor cannot reduce the amount of fuel injected enough. Most often, the codes are generated shortly after startup with throttle closed. The MAF is reading more air than is getting into the engine and therefore more fuel than needed is being injected into the engine, causing a rich condition that is being reported by the O2 sensors. Keeping the MAF clean can sometimes maintain a better balance of fuel/air ratio, but not always. Buying a new MAF may or may not fix the problem and can even make it worse depending on the sensitivity of the new MAF. If you insist on keeping the K&N filter, there are ways to eliminate the problem. You can install a small resistor inline on the MAF wiring harness to reduce the MAF signal which will reduce the amount of fuel injected into the engine yet maintain your current air flow. Because your stock engine is designed to run slightly rich, there is no safely issues with this and you will actually get slightly better performance from the engine. If,you want to maintain a reduced MAF signal only during closed loop operation but have the maximum signal at WOT, you can easily install a vacuum operated switch ($10.00) that will reduce the MAF signal during times there is an angine vacuum (cruising and idle) and remove the restriction of the signal when there is no vacuum. (WOT). However, maintaining a slightly lower MAF signal at all engine speeds will give you the best performance while maintaining safety in your A/F ratio.

I think it would be more informative to find out what oil is used in the engines that experience problems like this. The full history of oil use and not just the current brand and weight. IMO, anyone who is worried about failures like bearings and continues to use Mobil's 0W40 or equally inferior oil, is justified in their concerns. Why some people insist on running the weakest of the oils on the approved list makes no sense to me.

If the noise only lasts a minute or two on cold engine startup and then disappears, it is most likely the secondary air pump.