Kim

In a 2000 model, if you can lift the trunk lever, then the battery / wiring is not an issue. The only electrical component to the MY2000 trunk and engine cover levers is a lever lock requiring power to release. The front lid latch can be easily adjusted to insure proper latching and release. If it is defective, the replacement is not particularly expensive or a big deal labor wise. As for your fogging issue, be sure your A/C compressor is turned on at start up.

Had my AOS replace by my indie friend a little over a year ago. I accepted his assurance that, because my 2000 996 is a tiptronic, then dropping the engine is required to complete this job. Even with the engine drop, cost was just a little over $1000, labor and parts.

I second those who advise a power system check. Simply pull up to the front door of an Auto Zone, Advance Auto, etc ... and, for free, they will wheel out a machine that will stress test your electrical system: battery, alternator, etc. I've never had them give me an inaccurate report.

The relay is on the relay carrier, forward of and above the fuse panel. Its essentially in the physical middle of the carrier IF, you, like me, did the installation according to factory instructions. If your car came with PSE ... or the factory has changed between your model and mine, that might not be much help. My relay is part # 996.618.980.03. It is one of the 3 tall relays on my carrier, others are basically cubes. Black with white label with words, "Abgasklappen Relais". ("...klappen' certainly sounds like pigin-German for "noise"). Cost from Sunset was $120 plus shipping.

I would appreciate very much your asking him. The part # for my 2000, non-turbo, cab is 996.631.415.00. I'm not sure which additional years used that part. It would be nice if he would check his part # for me. I will PM you my email address. Thanks

I just discovered the bottom inboard corner of my left tail light lens is broken off. No idea how / when it happened. If you have pulled yours in order to install some fancy LED units, I would like to hear from you. PM me and tell me what price you would put on your left OEM tail light unit. Thanks,

Just in case anyone suffers similar symptoms ... my new relay arrived and immediately fixed the problem. Of course, now I wish I had tried that before I did what amounted to a re-install of the electrical wiring for the PSE

I can't figure out your "cross bar" method. If your fabricated bar is under the jack point as you raise the front of the car ... then how are you going to place the jack stands there once the car is in the air?

If I were you, I'd take this opportunity to route both emergency cables to more convenient locations. I took the rear cable out from under the left taillight and ran it to an area where it was more accessible under the engine / rear bumper. Once there, I use a tie wrap to secure it. In the front, I removed the right headlight and rerouted the cable from the right door jam area, around the headlight, and in behind the bumper. Once there, I tied the cable loop to a piece of fishing line with I threaded through the tow ring screw mount ... and finally tied the fishing line to the back of the bumper plug. Now, if I need emergency access, I pop out the bumper plug, pull out the fishing line connect to its back and there is the front release cable.

With help from this forum (thanks Orient Express), I installed the PSE on my 2000 Cab a number of years ago. It was great, worked fine ... but did not last quite the long time I had hoped. For the past year, it has intermittently not reacted to the Quiet switch. Even though the indicator in the switch would flash as the ignition was turned on, the switch would accomplish nothing. Then, it would began to work again ... maybe for a few weeks ... then back to "no response to the switch. Full time loud. Because I often leave my neighborhood very early, this is not a neighborly situation. So I pulled the front seat, fuse panel carpet area, back of fuse box and relay carrier and, in effect, rewired the PSE as I checked each connection. Found the ground wire to be suspicious, so thought that might be it ... but couldn't check until I put the seat back as I didn't wish to turn on the airbag warning light. With all back in place, I turned on the ignition, pressed the switch, and ... voila ... I could hear it operate in the engine compartment, along with seeing the light come on in the switch. Finish buttoning up, start the car, and found I was right back where I started. No response to pressing the switch. Any ideas? I put a new relay on order with Sunset, but do not hold out much hope since it did operate that one time after my re-wiring.

Most auto stores (and, specifically, Pep Boys) will have a reference guide to tell you which of their hood shocks is proper for front and rear of the 996.

I recently had an AOS failure on my 2000 996 Cab. You listed the following symptoms as reported by PO: - Heavy smoke from both exhausts, ( I had no smoke) - Oil missing in engine ( car used no oil ) - NO abnormal engine noise ( car had loud squealing noise coming from AOS ) Also, my car showed oil pressure dropping to almost zero whenever I made a hard deceleration / stop. It would then recover. Your symptoms do not sound like a bad AOS to me.

Be cautious if you go this route. Although the soft 996 cab window did, indeed, have a zipper, said zipper was not the primary means of keeping it in place. As the web site you referenced makes clear, after being zipped in, the window must be glued around its entire perimeter. When my window had only 5 -6 inches of separation along the bottom, I could not find an upholstery shop in metro Atlanta that would attempt a repair without removing the entire top first.

The microswitch in question is an integral part of the door latch. I got my latch from Sunset, and that was the best deal I could find. I also replace the microswitch on each handle (interior and exterior) at the same time .... as they are relatively cheap and I didn't want to open up the door again. Somewhere on this forum is the step-by-step I posted when I replaced these switches and the door latch. Its involved / complex .... but not terribly difficult. I started with Loren's DIY on removing the door panel, and worked by instinct from there. The window will need to be UP to reach into the door interior. YOu will need to tear off plastic water barrier, so have duct tape available to refasten it. If your arms / hands are large, sweet talk your wife into helping, because there are some tight spots inside that door .... especially when you are reassembling the handle to latch linkage. Watch carefully as you disassemble .... even take notes.

Do a search. There have been lengthy discussions of this issue. Basically, there are 3 micro switches in each door that control window droop / reversal. - one in each handle Inside and out that droops the window when the handle is pulled .... and holds it in the drooped position until the door jam latch opens and releases. At that point, control passes to the switch inside the door latch assembly until the door is closed again. - a couple of years back, I posted a step by step for removing the door panel and exposing these micro switches. In my case, I had to replace the latch assembly with its internal switch. Since the other two door handle switches were relatively inexpensive, I replaced them at the same time.

After seeing it hang from the garage ceiling for 2 years straight, I gave mine away to a fellow RennTech'er on the condition he buy my hard top hoist for $100

Thanks for the link .... but notice that this thread (and the original I referred to) concern oil quantity / level .... not pressure. I have searched RennTech without any luck.

In a recent thread regarding strange behavior of the electronic oil level display, someone replied with: Maybe a bad oil level sender, part #996.606.150.00, lists for $59.98. Kind of a PIA to change but not that bad. I quickly added to the thread that I have had similar problems on my 2000 Cab and asked the responder if he could be more specific on: 1. the physical location of the sender, and 2. what is involved in changing it. I haven't had any luck in getting a response to that thread or to a PM, so I'm starting a new topic in hopes of getting some help. Of course I can check the dipstick, but it just bothers me when something does not work. Anyone?

Can you give a little more specific info on the location / procedure to install a new sending unit? Mine began a couple of years ago to show zero oil on 9 out of 10 start ups. On the tenth, it would be accurate. Its a little thing, but the kind that drives me crazy. I like everything to work. Thanks

Can you give a little more specific info on the location / procedure to install a new sending unit? Mine began a couple of years ago to show zero oil on 9 out of 10 start ups. On the tenth, it would be accurate. Its a little thing, but the kind that drives me crazy. I like everything to work. Thanks,

Just so everyone is clear on what really happens when a key is mated to a car .... the 996 key heads are not programmed. They always produce the same signal, the one created by the transponder capsule in the key head. It is the car's immobilizer computer that is programed to recognize the key head. This is why the bar code tag that comes with a key head (not with a key shaft) is necessary in order to perform the mating, along with a car specific code that only Porsche has access to. I believe each car computer can recognize a maximum of five key heads.

Instead of ordering blanks, then finding someone to cut them .... just fax a copy of your title to Suncoast or Sunset, and they will send you keys already cut for your VIN.

This lid can be opened manually by a cable that goes under the driver side rear brake lights. Check under this area. Thanks for the responses. Is this cable accessable from the outside and underneath the car? Do I need to take the rear bumper off? Or does the rear tail light have to come off? I'm not sure how I'll get the light off, if it needs to be taken off, without having access to the engine bay area first or am I missing something here? If your rear emergency cable is in the factory location, it can often be reached by gently prying up the tail light unit with something soft (spatula, paint stick, etc) and then inserting a thin probe a few inches to fish out the cable. After doing this once (and getting lucky), I rerouted the rear cable to under the car and used a tie rap to keep in in place there. BTW: the front cable is even more difficult to reach in the forward end of the pax side front wheel well. I read (and followed) a tip years ago to reroute it forward in the fender (remove headlight unit for access), then down behind the front bumper. Tie a piece of fishing line to the loop at the end of the cable. Pull out the towing hole plug and attach the fishing line to the back of the plug. In the future, should the need arise, you can pop out the bumper plug, use the fishing line to pull out the cable, and pop your trunk open. Having done that, I now keep a valet key hidden inside my trunk .... and thereby have access to my car even if I left my keys in another city that morning. (ask me why I picked that example)

Read through my description of the sequence one more time: When the door latching mechanism senses door no longer latched closed, the switch integral to the latch takes over and keeps window in droop; When the door is closed and the door latching mechanism senses the door latch engaged, the signal is sent to raise window to full up. Try this experiment: without opening the door even a little bit, stand there and pull out on the exterior handle. Does the window droop each time you pull out the handle? Does the window fully raise each time you release the door handle? If the answer to both of these questions is "yes", then the microswitch on that exterior handle is good. Try the same thing with the interior door handle to eliminate it as being bad. As I stated above, after the initial window droop to allow the door to be pulled open, control of window position passes to the microswitch located within the door latch mechanism (the part in the rear door edge that grabs the strike on your door jam to hold the door closed). When the door is not latched, it is that switch that recognizes the fact and keeps the window drooped until the latch once again senses the door closed and allows control of window droop to revert to the handle microswitches .... and the window goes up because neither handle is being pulled on at the moment.

Control of the window "droop while door is open" function is shared by 3 micro switches during the door opening process: When door is sitting closed, all is quiet in the sequence. When the outside or inside door handle is pulled to open, a microswitch (they are identical) senses handle movement and droops the window; When the door latching mechanism senses door no longer latched closed, the switch integral to the latch takes over and keeps window in droop; When the door is closed and the door latching mechanism senses the door latch engaged, the signal is sent to raise window to full up. From your description, it sounds as if the microswitch in the latch is at fault. I do believe the switch is integral to the latch so that the latch unit must be replaced. Door switches (2): 996-613-125-00 (for 2000 model). 20.55 each at Sunset. (changed both while I was in there) Door latch (1): 8N1-837-015-C (for 2000 model). 116.20 at Sunset. The DIY section includes instructions for removing the door panel are fairly complete. It takes a slim arm to reach in there and disconnect / reconnect the mechanical linkages to the exterior door handle and the latch. Took me about half a day to complete the job and put it all back together. Can't be sure the switches are your problem, but it sounds as though they may be.