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deliriousga

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Everything posted by deliriousga

  1. deliriousga
    Ask them what the problem is. They should tell you where it's coming from and what they plan to replace. Then you can do one of two things. 1) If it's a very small, slow leak, refill the freon. Btw, if the dealer tells you they are required to repair the leak before refilling it, they are lying to you so they can do more work and you need to go elswhere. The EPA certification course says refills are fine and asks you to report mechanics who tell you that and they can pull their certification. Since it's R134, you can buy the freon and a guage/filler hose at the local auto shop and have it done for about $30. 2) If it's a fast leak, list them here and we can tell you if they are difficult to get to and replace. If not, you can DIY the job with parts from Sunset Porsche for way less. Good luck! :cheers:
  2. deliriousga
    Anybody know what the part number is for the Cayenne RMS that is being used in the Boxster now? Mine is a 2.7 engine type M96.22. TIA! :cheers:
  3. deliriousga
    Is there anyone out there (hopefully we end up with a group of people) who lives in the Atlanta area who has a Boxster and willing to trade diagnostic help? In the 928 community, we get together when someone has a problem and swap parts from a working car to plug it into the car having a problem to see if that part is the cause or if we need to look elsewhere. It's a great way to do diagnostics when you're stuck, especially with parts prices being what they are. So, if you're interested in something like this, please let me know. I can keep a list of contact info and distribute it to the guys who are a part of it or put it on a secure area of my website and password protect it. I was thinking about this because I'm currently in a pickle trying to figure out why our Boxster is not running right and there is nothing out there like this for the Box. :cheers:
  4. deliriousga
    Here's my last engine oil report in .pdf format. Boxster_73K_Engine.pdf Here's my last differential oil report in .pdf format. Boxster_73K_Differential.pdf
  5. deliriousga
    Here's one from another thread. I think it's 0 280 218 055.
  6. deliriousga
    Ok, I'm still working on the same no acceleration problem, but I have more info (and corrected info) now. The first P-code I got was P1502. After checking the book again, I noticed I was looking at the DME 5.2.2 list instead of the 7.2 that is in the '00 model so the code explanation was wrong. Here's what I've done so far, and the new codes I'm getting. 1) P1502=Fuel pump relay output stage. Short to B+ / above upper limit / rich mixture threshold. I replaced the fuel pump relay, but still have the problem. 2) After replacing the fuel pump relay, I started it and plugged in the AutoTap to watch what happens. One thing I noticed was the mass air flow rate was ~1.4 lb/min while it was idling at 970-1000 rpm. I watched for a little while and waited for error codes to pop up. The new codes were P1502, P1115 and P1119. 3) P1115=Heating of O2 sensor, cyl. 1-3 and P1119 is the same for cyl. 4-6 so I'm thinking clean the MAF. Here's the freaky part. I cleared all of the codes then suddenly everything worked beautifully. Suddenly I hit the gas and it jumped to 5K rpm, idled at 700rpm, everything is normal again. Shut her down and restart, and it's back to the problems again. I pulled the MAF and it was pretty dirty. I cleaned it with electronics cleaner and let it dry then put it back in and cranked her up. Still runs crappy and won't accelerate above 2K rpm. So, before I order a new MAF at $300+ is there anything that comes to mind that I should try first? TIA!! :cheers:
  7. deliriousga
    Mobil1 0W40 is now in all Porsches from the factory and recommended by Porsche as the oil to use. It has great flexibility for hot and cold climates and has been working wonderfully in our '87 & '00 P-cars.
  8. deliriousga
    I pulled the throttle body and cleaned everything out last night, but still no go. I'm trying the cable from the pedal to the actuator tonight and we'll see. Any other suggestions out there? TIA! :cheers:
  9. deliriousga
    I'll check that tonight or tomorrow night and see how it looks. Thanks for the idea Loren. :cheers:
  10. deliriousga
    Today I was working on the turn signal so I removed the battery (-) terminal. After I reconnected the battery terminal, I did the turn the key to on for one minute, turn it to off for 10 seconds then start to reset the DME. After starting, now it runs rough at idle and when I go to hit the gas it gets to about 1500-2K rpm and won't go any higher. I got a DTC code of 1502 - "Throttle jacking unit spring test. Sort to B+ / above upper limit / rich mixture threshold." Anybody know where I should start? TIA!! :cheers:
  11. deliriousga
    What 0586slb said. The engine compartment cooling fan kicks on and off depending on the temp and if the A/C compressor is on.
  12. deliriousga
    I have a list for the 60K on my website. Go to the Boxster maintenance area. Also add the differential oil to the list for the 5-speed (not sure what the Tip uses).
  13. deliriousga
    I use plumber's grease to lube the plastic and rubber parts. It's not petroleum based so it's safe for everything. I use white lithium on the metal slides and ball joints. I lubed the top 7 months ago and it has been silent ever since. The plumber's grease is available at any hardware store, Home Depot or Lowes. The white lithium is available at most auto parts stores. I stay away from the spray just because I know I'll end up getting overspray on the cloth top.
  14. deliriousga
    Is the mixer working? There's an electronic flap that mixes hot/cold that can fail. Also, as was mentioned, the condensors can be torn up by rocks from the road. We have some mesh covers on the front vents to guard against this. The PO of ours had to replace a condensor and the dealer told him it happens all the time so he put the covers on and they have worked very well.
  15. deliriousga
    Yes.
  16. deliriousga
    Hi All! I've read through the forums and wanted to get a little confirmation before I order parts. When I unlatch the top to put it down, the windows do not drop their normal few centimeters. Here's what does work and what I've checked: 1) Both windows drop when I open their respective door. 2) I checked the fuses for the windows and all are good. 3) I pulled out the top latch microswitch and it was corroded a little on the two metal dots behind the clicking part of the switch, but still doesn't work. 4) I can't swap the top relay out because I don't know anyone else with a Boxster. I'm thinking the microswitch needs to be replaced. Are there any other tests I can do to confirm it or should I just go ahead and order the switch? TIA! :cheers:
  17. deliriousga
    Take a Ziploc bag, cut a square piece off of it, fold it up and put it under the battery. This pushes the battery up so it can make contact with the button you're pushing. You may have to try a different number of folds to get it the right thickness so it's tight but still allows the key head to stay snapped together. My remote lock button was not working at all and this fixed it several months ago with no problems since. Here's what happens: When you push the lock/unlock button down, the edges of the battery are pushed on. Over time it sinks a little in its' pocket so the button no longer makes contact. The reason the light still flashes when the button is not making contact is the light is completely separate from the button. The light makes contact with the (-) by laying against the side of the battery. Since the (+) side of the light is contacted toward the edge of the battery it still makes contact and lights. This is the same reason the trunk popper will usually work when the lock button does not. Good luck! :D
  18. deliriousga
    You can also send it in for analysis to see what's going on in there. I use Blackstone Labs at every oil change to keep up with what's going on in the engine.
  19. deliriousga
    Thanks everyone. I found the adapters last weekend and put them in. Everything is working well and we can get around the Atlanta traffic and construction. :cheers:
  20. deliriousga
    That does matter. It has to be the FM antenna so I'll get the connectors and go from there. Thanks for the help. :cheers:
  21. deliriousga
    With today's computers, it's best to use a jump starter rather than another car. Several people with 928s have fried their computers jump starting with another car due to the power surge when it's connected. The jump starters have a built in relay that won't allow the power to turn on until the jump starter is connected properly. Your problem sounds like a bad battery or a bad ignition switch. If you are going to try and fix things on your own and don't have one, go to Radio Shack and get a good multi-meter. You can test the battery with that and see if you are getting any voltage if it jumps off and quits when you disconnect the jump starter.
  22. deliriousga
    I was changing the differential oil and I can't get the filler plug to go back in. It starts to go in a little and then sticks. A ratchet won't get it to thread. i checked and it's not stripped. I tried putting the plug in the freezer since it's cold outside, but still no go. Is there a trick to getting the darn thing back in? TIA! :cheers:
  23. deliriousga
    You need to have an oil analysis done. You can go to Blackstone Laboratories and order their free kit to do oil analysis for $20. If you have a sample, you can send it in your own container as long as it's water tight and the top screws on. It's good to do one at every oil change so there are comparisons as the engine ages, but a single analysis will tell you if there's something urgent you need to tend to. Since you said it's gold color, here's what they list for copper on their site: Copper: Brass or bronze parts, copper bushings, bearings, oil coolers, also an additive in some gasoline engine oils.
  24. deliriousga
    I saw a picture from Tool Pants in another thread where it looks like the antenna plugs in to the booster in the A pillar using a regular type antenna plug. Is that the case or is the plug in the A pillar the same "VW" type that's in the back of the Becker units? I'm putting in a Garmin GTM 10 FM TMC Traffic Receiver to go with a GPS unit and it plugs into the antenna cable, but it only comes with a regular type plug and an GM type plug. If I can plug it in at the A pillar rather than order an adapter to go in the back of the radio it would be nice. Thanks for the help! :cheers:
  25. deliriousga
    If the fuel pump fuse is bad, you should not hear the buzzing noise. Here's a relay chart for reference. http://theschillings.com/boxrelay.htm The fuse chart is inside the panel cover. First off, one thing you can skip checking in the Boxster. Unlike other cars, there is a single coil on each spark plug so if one is bad it will just run poorly. A few things that can cause this problem. See if you can find someone with a '00-'03 Boxster who will let you swap a few sensors/relays to see what happens. 1) Fuel pump relay? The buzzing sound you hear should be the fuel pump, but if the relay is bad it won't pump. 2) Bad vacuum leak. 3) Crankshaft Position Sensor. If it's bad, the car won't start. 4) Camshaft Position Sensor. See above. 5) Bad fuel pump. Start by checking your fuel pressure. There's a test port on the passenger side of the engine compartment. You can borrow a tester or buy one and see if you're getting any pressure. If you don't get pressure, check the relay and then the pump. If you're getting fuel pressure, look for vacuum leaks and check the sensors listed above.
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