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deliriousga

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Everything posted by deliriousga

  1. deliriousga
    Several things you can check: 1) Sticking Idle Air Control Valve. Cleaning can help if it's possible in the Boxster. I have not tried cleaning it in the Boxster, but in the 928 a little WD40 in the valve took care of the problem. 2) Dirty/bad MAF. You can remove it and clean it with some electronic parts cleaner and see if it helps before you consider replacing it. 3) Bad O2 sensor(s). They should last about 100K miles, but can go bad and cause the DME to change the mixture irradically. Just a few things that cause that type of problem.
  2. deliriousga
    The switch is called the "window regulator". If you do a search on the forums, you should be able to find some instructions somewhere.
  3. deliriousga
    There's a TSB out concerning the spring type clips that came on it originally. They should be replaced with the screw down type (good ones, not el cheapo's) when you remove the old clamps. When I replaced the oil separator, it took 1.5 hours and has worked beautifully ever since. :jump:
  4. deliriousga
    Watch the coolant level closely if you had to fill. You may be on the way to an expansion tank failure. Check under your rear trunk carpet and make sure there's no coolant down there.
  5. deliriousga
    Where are you? Go to http://www.risingconcepts.com/frapper/boxs...oftheworldunite and put yourself on the map. You can give a "shout out" and add a pic if too! Hope to see you there! :cheers:
  6. deliriousga
    That's why mine has to go in the passenger seat with the seatbelt on to keep it from sliding and scratching the interior. May be your only choice.
  7. deliriousga
    Due to the large amount of smoke and sometimes poor performance, I'd keep it in the garage until you take care of the problem. The smoke sounds like the oil separator. It's easy and only about $100 to DIY. Takes about 1 1/2 hours to do it from the top. The smoke goes away within 3 starts if that cures it.
  8. deliriousga
    For $250 more, get the 48". You don't always have to lift it that high, but you'll be really upset if you need more room one day after spending $1250.
  9. deliriousga
    Don't touch it. That one scares me!
  10. deliriousga
    Replace the ignition switch. It's $32 at Autozone and takes about an hour to replace. Only replace the switch at the back end of the tube where you insert the key, not the whole thing. There are several threads on this problem with instructions. It is a very common problem, so common I bought 3 switches when I replaced mine so it can be fixed with no wait next time. All kinds of weird things start to happen when the ignition switch goes, the first being the key not returning to the "on" position after starting. That can keep the starter from turning off and it will also keep the A/C from blowing until you return it to the right postion. Next you will have a hard time getting the key in the ignition then it won't go in at all.
  11. deliriousga
    My dealer charged me 1/2 hour labor when I had it in for the 30K mile service. They set the doors to lock when the car hits 5mph. See if they will they do that at your next service?
  12. deliriousga
    There is a common problem with the seat belt switch contacts going bad causing the light to stay on. Did the dealer say it's definitely the whole unit that is bad? What's the year?
  13. deliriousga
    I have the relay charts posted on my website for MY 2000. It should be almost identical to the '97 relay setup, but may have different part numbers for the actual relay. I checked according to Loren's post and they all match on the rear relays he listed. http://www.theschillings.com/boxrelay.htm
  14. deliriousga
    I recently went through the same type problem on the 928 that turned out to be a shorted relay. I was looking at the Boxster relay charts and don't see one for the ABS system. Is this the case? Anyway, I'm with Loren if there's no relay (i.e. simple check/fix). Pay someone a few bucks to read the system and give you more info. One thing that is common over time (though not usually only 15K miles) is dirty ABS sensor ends. The metallic particles from the brake pads stick to the magnetic sensor. In the 928, they were so dirty they could not feel anything at highway speeds and it shook the car like crazy. Cleaned them up and, voila, the shaking disappeared. Clean them when you change the pads and you won't have any future problems due to dirty sensors. :D
  15. deliriousga
    Check the switch like ar38070 suggests first. If you're going to try and further diagnose electrical stuff, get a good multi-meter from Radio Shack. Check the light bulb connections first for voltage and work back on the line from there to see where the electrical signal stops.
  16. deliriousga
    I don't think there is a factory one. Aftermarket will usually be a better, stronger flywheel anyway. Most aftermarket flywheels are made for racing so the standards are higher. Most aftermarket "upgrade" parts (not replacements) are created after several years of seeing how the original parts hold up. Several aftermarket parts for the 928 are far superior to the original. A-arm bushings, heater valve, lightweight flywheel, fuel lines, door arm rest supports, air filter, swaybar and tons of other aftermarket parts are much better built than the originals. The way I see it, if Porsche created the original defective flywheel, and several others are having the same problem, I don't want to put another one in for twice the price and have it go bad again.
  17. deliriousga
    I believe they are 12mm "triple square" bolts (aka "cheesehead" or "12 point inverted"). I'm positive they're triple squares, just not 100% on the 12mm size. You can get a single triple square or a small (maybe 4 pieces) set at NAPA. I'm not sure about the Boxster since I have not worked on the flywheel yet, but in the 928 there's not enough room for the long bits that are sold at retail. I took a Dremel with a cutting wheel to cut it down to a workable length, just in case you run into the same problem.
  18. deliriousga
    Ditto. It's about a 1 1/2 hour job from the top. You can get the part for less at Sunset Porsche (if you're not in Oregon or Washington state). They are a sponsor of this site.
  19. deliriousga
    I would go ahead and replace the flywheel, but not with a factory one. I'd get the light weight one like maninblack suggested with inserts instead. The original one is a dual mass flywheel that cannot be machined. It has caused vibration in mine and has to be replaced for $700 + my labor, but the lightweight ones are only in the $400 range with the first insert and replacement inserts are in the $200 range. There are two advantages to this. First is you get the equivalent of a new flywheel for $200 later when it's time to replace the clutch since you only have to replace the wear surface which is the insert. Second is you have a lighter flywheel so it's easier on the engine with less weight to be rotated.
  20. deliriousga
    That's the one. I know it's engine oil because of my mistake the first time I changed the oil. I popped that one out and drained and only got the 1 1/2 quarts so I knew I got the wrong plug. I popped the real drain plug and got the rest of the oil out. To find out if the other plug was motor oil, I put both plugs back in and filled the oil system. Then I popped the one you're talking about off again to see if oil came pouring out and it did. It's all connected inside.
  21. deliriousga
    My money's on dead alternator bearings locking up and freezing the belt. The rattling you heard was probably the worn bearings. I had a similar rattle in those bearings and the idler rollers. Several people on different forums have had the alternator rattle problem. It can be remedied for about $100-$150 by finding a local alternator rebuild shop or you can get a replacement for about $400 (those are part prices, no labor included). If it is the alternator freezing up, have the belt and idler rollers changed too, especially if you're over 40K miles. Like babbott said, easy belt replacement and the alternator is not hard either. It only has two bolts holding it in. The three idler rollers are each held in with one bolt.
  22. deliriousga
    The only drain plugs I know of are the two for oil, one on the bottom of the differential for draining and one on the back of it for filling, one for the coolant and maybe one for the tranny if you have an auto (not sure of that since I have a manual one). Do you have a pic of the plug? When I change the oil, I pull the regular drain plug that uses an allen wrench and the plug on the right side of the car in front of the tire (it's a 17mm hex bolt with a spring and plug on the inside). If that's the one you're talking about, it is engine oil. If you pull that one when changing the oil, about 1 1/2 quarts come out of it.
  23. deliriousga
    An A/C recharge is simple and straight forward. You can take it to almost any oil change shop and have it done while you wait. The only thing you'll have to do is show them where the check/fill valves are. They are in the back of the front trunk on the passenger side under the plastic cover. There's one screw in the cover and it's a torx type head. It's a very easy DIY if you want to do it. You can get a gun at a local auto parts store that has a guage on it and holds a can of refridgerant. It has a trigger for filling, and release the trigger to check the pressure. The valves on the car are marked H and L on the caps and they are different sizes so you can't accidentally try and fill the high side.
  24. deliriousga
    I replaced the oil separator and it seems to have fixed the problem. I'll keep an eye on it and see if she stays to the good. Thanks for the ideas! :cheers:
  25. deliriousga
    Holy crap, that was good! Thanks Jim!
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