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Sisuguy

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Everything posted by Sisuguy

  1. Not Warped Rotors... What Is It? I have a 2000 Boxster S with factory rotors and pads. Have done several DEs with no issues. This weekend I experienced the followingIn the middle of day #2 the following started to happen: When the brakes were hot and I was doing heavy breaking from high speeds (example breaking from ~ 115 mph the car felt like I was braking on a "washboard" surface, meaning that the car became a bit unstable and started to "wobble" This was NOT the ABS, which feels different, I also did not have brake fading and I had pretty much the same brake distance as before, so the brakes generally still worked great. And it only happened after a few laps when the brakes were hot. When the brakes are cold everything feels normal. I checked runout and have 0.001" or less on each rotor, no cracking or signs of any pad material buildup. Pads have at least 8mm of material left. Ideas?..
  2. The real difference between the two oils is that the "base" oil is either 0wt or 5wt. VI improvers are then added to bring it up to the higher weight, i.e. 40. The "problem" is under heat and load the VI improvers like to shear which then reduces the viscosity of the oil, it breaks down. So.....the wider the viscosity range, the faster the oil will break down in service....relatively speaking. The lower the viscosity the easier the oil flows... The higher the viscosity the higher the film strength, load capacity. So......change it often. Lower viscosity when it's cold out, higher when it's hot and you're running hard. IMO
  3. JFP just a quick question, how do you handle TDC with an under drive pulley? Do you have a std. Pulley you install just for the timing check?
  4. JFP, could you please elaborate on this statement ? "The problem remains that the bearings with "nothing wrong" can suddenly change and wipe out an otherwise fine engine, and do so with absolutely no warning. " The only way this can possibly happen is if the ball retainer cage were to fail and allow the balls to jam and skid. I have never read of any bearing being found with a broken cage? Otherwise the "normal" wear mechanism is galling/pitting over time which should manifest itself slowly with increased wear metals, slop in the bearing which may show up in the cam timing relationship as well.
  5. Thanks JFP, I knew it couldn't be that simple!
  6. So, here's a question I haven't seen addressed anywhere on this topic. If my 2000S turns out to have a single row bearing rather than a double row, can I replace it with a double row as long as I change the cover plate as well?
  7. Okay.... I need some enlightenment! Replaced my steering wheel with an aftermarket wheel, everything seemed fine. Tested horn and it worked. Drove car and horn didn't work? Got home and it worked in garage.... Needless to say I've chased this for a while now, finally concluded that ignition off, horn works. Ignition on, horn doesn't work! What wire do I need to have hooked up? Can't believe there's one wired this way....
  8. Find some who is doing desktop modeling. They should be able to model the gear very easily and many of the units now can use a nylon material. Once a you have the program it can be used by almost any machine.
  9. Just my two cents... I replaced the plugs on my Boxster (Beru) with Bosch last fall. Had the same impression of less response, low idle burble, etc. No codes shown. Just replaced them with Denso Iridium and there seems to be a noticeable difference!
  10. Yes, same calibrated wrench. I have been assembling engines for 30+ years I don't think it was operator error! . They were torqued on install and now uniformly loose as well... JFP I took your advice and went with the Denso plugs this time. Does seem to be running "crisper".
  11. Last fall I replaced the plugs in my 2000 Boxster S, with a set of the 4+ Bosch. The car ran well but had a slight "burble", had it been a carbureted engine I would have said its a touch rich.... Anyway, decided to replace the plugs with a different brand. As I went in to replace them I found every plug could be broken loose with maybe 5 ft.lbs. of torque max! None were leaking however. All were torqued to spec when installed. Anyone else experienced this?
  12. Thanks guys! Didn't know there were bulbs behind the displays.
  13. My 2000 Boxster S has suddenly lost the clock and oil level display. All other instruments are there and working, no fault codes. Any ideas? Thanks.
  14. What you're describing is a classic fuel pump failure as JFP described. The pump is fuel cooled, when run low on fuel , the pump overheats and stops or puts out low pressure. When it cools down it can work again....for a while.
  15. Creek man, earlier MaxJax shipped with four quick disconnects. There were some issues with keeping the two lifts in sync. The factory then switched to the two disconnect setup. BTW, putting the 90 degree fittings at the lift rams does allow the hoses to lay flatter on the ground.
  16. Correct. On my floor, I have about 2" clearance to the MaxJax pad. The puck takes up about 1.25" or so and is about the same dia. As the jacking point. I've also lifted directly on the pads directly. I love my MaxJax, wish I had bought it 5 years ago!
  17. I just use a Hockey puck on mine. Works great.
  18. Hey. I just noticed that my side marker lights don't flash with the turn signals? Everything else electrical is working fine...tried putting in a new bulb but no difference. Side lights light up with the headlights but no flash???
  19. Looks like a jack crank handle, don't know if it was Porsche issue or not
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