Izzy

Open the fuse and relay bin, and make sure all the relays are all the way down, connected. I had some vibration that loosened them up, and the symptoms sound just as you described, the DME relay is not making contact and you can't start the car, but the engine turns fine.

Sent you a pm with some info on it too.

I think the sound is great in small doses. For example, driving 2:30 hours to VIR for a track day, the droning can get old and bothersome. However, on track and around the paddock, the scream of the engine is blissful. Then driving back another 2:30 home, by the time I get home I am ready do swap back to GHL. I left them on for a week, driving to work is only 15 miles, and it was not bad at all. Until I had to dial in to a conference call. They are definitely sporty, and not great when you have to conduct business in the car. Added bonus is my wife won't drive the car with loud pipes on, therefore reducing the number of door dings, etc.

Derek, you got mail Izzy

You should all consider that with the loud pipes, other motorists will be annoyed and will push you out of the way, therefore increasing your MPG. Cheers Izzy

No problem, should be in your inbox by now. It has a crash in the record from a police report, at least 3 different accidents!

sent you a pm

Thank you. I have capitulated to our local Porsche Dealer. Know the guy running the show and I have trusted them for years. He is a 944 racer, we go to the track together a bit.

Macquda, I lost my engine today, an 86 NA track car. First turn on track, runnin perfectly, and after 4 laps or so lost all oil pressure, then saw the white smoke. Turn engine off and pulled over. Anyway, there is a a hole in the oil pan and a crack on it too. I did not hit anything, and a Porsche mechanic looked at the car lifted and mentioned the #2 rod bearing. Anyway, so far I have not had a great experience with the 944 on track. I may put on a motor with 64K miles next week and run again next weekend. Car is at the shop now, being sorted out as to what happened.

Where are you in Charlotte? I may be able to help you. PM me or email at izzyandsue@yahoo.com

This approach has worked for me so far, on my 1986. Like any instructions here in Renntech, use at your own risk. But if the motor is still working, likely all you need to do is clean the accumulated crud from the gear system. 1. Remove the plastic cover that is over (under) the motor assembly. Pus on the top slot and it will disconnect. Turn it upside down as it is a handy place to keep all the nuts and screws you will remove. 2. Test if you are getting power to the motor, ignition on, switch on. If you are getting power, proceed with rest of steps. Turn switch and ignition off. Remove the connectors and remember how they go. Here is a picture just in case. 3. Remove wiper, using 10 mm socket on wiper nut and lit wiper arm out. Then remove rubber grommet with small flat screwdriver, then the 17mm nut right below the rubber grommet 4. Remove 3 10mm nuts from motor assembly, the ones that hold the assembly to the black plate 5. Now you can gently remove the assembly from the hatchback, gently pull away fromt the glass it will come off. The black plate will come off too, as it is held to the the hatch with to "fingers" only towards the back. 6. Remove the motor assembly from the black plate, simply pull appart 8. Remove the flat head screws that hold the bottom plate to the motor gear assembly. And look at the accumulated gunk that prevents the motor from turning. 9. Now, with your wife's permission, take the whole thing to a table and begin cleaning out the solidified gunk. I used Gumout, and ended up going out to the driveway and spraying liberally over the gears. 10. Remove the C clip from the top side gear shaft for the main big gear. Push down the wiper driving bolt and then you can remove the big gear. Clean the gunk out. 11. Oil the gears and replace them back into their position. Secure big gear with C clip. Replace bottom plate with the flad head screws. 12. Connect the power connectors back to the motor and have some turn the ignition and rear wiper motor to test if it fixed the problem. If it did, you are done and reassemble the components. If not.... 13. The motor may be binding or too dirty. Dissamble the motor and housing. I used Lectra Clean electrical part cleaner to remove the rust and dirt from the magnets 14. Another steps is related to the motor shaft binding on the bearing on the rearmost section of the motor assembly. I removed the bearing and working to relace it with a different softer material (nylon). Will post those pictures as an update later. But for now, the motor and wiper work, they are just noisy.

Thanks, that clears it

Planning on doing an oil change and transmission oil change this weekend. Any recommendations? Thank you Izzy

Petroleum Jelly worked fine when I did it, to lube the rings, using a finger.

A few things come to mind, parking brake switch is the first. Is the parking (emergency) brake light on when you pull on it for the top operation? the second is the classic fuses, make sure you haven't blown one. And lastly is the fluid in the reservior could be low. There is great DIY about it here (shameless plug) http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=6967 Do a search by "convertible" and you will see a good bit of info on other issues members have had, like broken brackets, etc.

Thanks Geoff. I had similar thoughts, so checked the lines first. They are all new SS ones, Pauer Tuning braided lines. Will double check for any install issues, but I didn't see any leaks (yet) These are the bad boys: http://www.pauertuning.com/fuel%20lines.htm I am having the car detailed today at work, to do a good scrub, remove all the dead bugs and snakes, etc. It was a blast driving in, burning rubber on the first 3 gears is addictive.

Thank you Brother Loren! Will tinker with it tonight. There are no gas leaks, but did not check the gasket on the gas cap. Spend all afternoon yesterday replacing bulbs. Great car so far, will be on track in about 2 weeks.

Hello guys. I just got a 944 1985-1/2 that I am using for track events primarily, has the cage, racing seats, harness, etc. Great car with a great body style. I have a few things wrong that I would like to fix: 1. Horn doen't work. Where is it? Need to test to ensure it is getting power 2. Backup lghts not working. All other tail lights do work. I think there is a backup light switch, but need to know the location so I can swap it 3. Smell of gasoline in garage. Filled up the tank and parked it in my garage. There is a noticeable smell of gas. Is it common or is it a charcoal canister replacement issue? Thank you all in advance. I have done most of my previous posting in the 996 Forum. Izzy

If it is related to new rotors, I would consider the calipers might not have been re-centered after rotor replacement. if they are off a little bit, you will feel that sensation from uneven contact. You may want to go back to the dealer if they did it, and tell them about it so they can check them out.

Looks like the dealer might have done a partial flush, or just bled the brakes. I do switch between blue and gold when I do a full flush, yearly or twice a year depeding on track days. When I do a full flush, blue stays blue and gold stays gold.

I have used Eibach springs to lower the car, inexpensive and not too difficult to do.

Best answer to me is call the track and find out. Every track is different and has its own rules, then they can change the rules with different clubs. For example you can't run a cabrio at VIR with the Porsche Club, but they ignore the rule when I go with the Ferrari Club (probably since most Ferraris that come are cabrios). At some tracks (Road Atlanta), they let me run with the popup bars extended. All you got to do is remove the carpet cover behind the rear seates (2 philllips screws), remove the pop-ups covers, then with a small flat screwdriver trigger the lock mechanism. It is a 10 min job, and passes the "broomstick" test.

Under the "Document" links on top of the page, there are owner manuals you can download. I have never had that problem though...

Doing that work is beyond me, but would ask please, if you do end up doing it, take a lot of pictures and write a DIY. If I lived near you would even offer to help (and learn).

I would recommend you ask the service manager or a contact you know at the dealer you use. That way there is "disclosure" and if you have a problem later one, not related to the mod, when they look at the car you will not be a "sneaky guy". They may wonder "what else has this guy done" if they don't know about your mods. Just my opinion.