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Izzy

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Everything posted by Izzy

  1. I know there has been some discussion on the convertible top malfunction. Before I go to the dealer, some question for any of you who can shed a light on other threads. The car is a 99 996. The top works intermittently from either the key or the rocker switch. Can operate up or down, can't find a pattern to it. Changed the hand brake switch - worked once then stuck down. I know if I wait until tomorrow, it will work. Sometimes after a few hours of rest, like over night, it will work. This started yesterday, before that no issues. There are no "groaning" issues, hydraulic reservoir issues. When it works, it works fine. When not, the "click-clack" sound described many times followed by the blinking light. Any thoughts or checks before going to the dealer for the big bucks? Thank you all. Izzy
  2. To contact Becker USA parts department, 201-327-3434 extention 1209 to speak with Rob. Phone orders works for them. Just ordered mine
  3. Not sure about Texas, but in other states (FL and NY) where I had tickets, all it took was to appear on the court date, stand up with the mass of people who pleaded not guilty or want to contest (the judge asked), get in line when they tell you, and they tell you when to come back at a specified date. Typically come back 2 weeks later where the District Attorney has moved your speeding moving violation to a non-moving violation and no points. If you accept, and you should, then pay the amount and court fees and save the potential point and insurance issues. They do this by the masses, so you are pretty much just a number they want to get rid of so they can get to the criminal dockets.
  4. Gang, got the plugs and tubes changed today. Some ideas on removing the tubes with this expensive and complicated tool: It is an old screwdriver with a rubber handle. The tubes are tapered, so the handle fits most of the way in, then pull out with a pair of pliers and presto, tube is out. Took some practice to get the technique, but once I did the first ones, the rest where easy. Pull it out in an slight angle to give it more friction. Another trick in changing the spark plugs, pull out the rubber boot from the coil connector, makes it a lot easier to remove and reattach later. Last trick was related to removing the coil bolts on the rearmost side. Big pain to get to them. Allen 5mm standard wrench can get it loose, then you have a hard time getting your fingers to undo the bolt. Here is what worked for me. A T-30 torx bit. It fits inside the bolt (almost same size as the 5 mm Allen) and then your fingers have a heftier mass to unscrew the bolt. It took me an hour to figure this out while I stare at the little *$**)$(@** bolt. Now the point to ponder, as I was finishing the work, hands and elbows black, it is 98 degrees outside, dirty. My wife walks by and says "in this fun?". I said "Hell yeah!" Have fun and be safe. I built and tested the tool for the Tiptronic fluid change. Will do a detailed step by step after I do the work and change the filter/fluid in the tranny. Izzy
  5. I must admit, I had the same issue with my '99, the rear did not close all the way. It took me a while to get to open it and close it. No problem since. The open lid light on the dashboard will not light up, so it was not easy to tell. Simple solution.
  6. Tommy, Got the parts from Sunset Imports (link on this site), lowest cost always. They where relatively cheap, tubes and rings come up to less than $6 each (from memory). As I am changing the plugs, saw some other write ups here where the Porsche mechanics change the tubes when they change the plugs. So I thought it was prudent to follow the leaders this time. I do have one tube that is leaking oil, the dealer quote to change it is $103 in Charlotte (for 1!) I don't even have $40 in parts for all 6 plugs and tubes! I will take some pictures of the procedure.
  7. Planning on replacing spark plugs on the 99 C2, and do the tubes and o-rings at the same time. Looking at prior posts, did not see any mention of lubricating the tubes on the outside before inserting. The workshop manual I have mentions: "Fit new sealing rings and coat with tyre mounting paste" Any thoughts or opinions if you have done this or watch the dealer do it? Thank you Izzy
  8. Tim, what year is it? I have a 99 and went through the same this past winter. Got a new part at the dealer and replaced it. They told me they keep lots of them in stock, very common problem with the spring that is coiled in there. It is a very easy swap. Once I took off the old one and fiddle with it, was able to bend the spring back to a very strong snap. So probably won't be swaping it again but reusing the old one next time. Good luck Izzy
  9. For changing the ATF, I came across this homemade version of the $289 tool or to avoid the $300 charge by the dealer. The link address is http://tech.bentleypublishers.com/thread.j...=6641&tstart=75 Here are other pictures. I plan on making one in a couple of weeks, will include a part list and BOM. The ATF should be between 90-104 degrees F when installed. A hot summer day with the container in the sun should do it (an inexpensive pool thermometer will do to verify). Other pics if anyone else is interested: Enjoy the DIY Izzy
  10. Thank you Loren. I cancelled the first order and re-did it, it is downloading now. Will burn a couple of CD's to keep it safe. I have a MY99, good to now your comparison. Izzy
  11. I clicked on the download this morning, took me to a page for payment, picked paypal and payed. Then nothing. I contacted the customer service as to how to download, nothing. Good thing I used paypal, and can get my $$ back worst case. Did I miss something on the download? Izzy
  12. Thanks Ron, that clears the PCM question. Is the part number above PCM2?
  13. I have a 1999 996, and wanted to know if the PCM part number 996.642.105.02 EFR is the correct one to install for the model year. I have read that the PCM2 will not work with the 1999. Does anyone know? Thank you Izzy
  14. Where do you buy either one (or both)? I am doing a brake fluid flush and will have the wheels off next week anyway. By the way, love the way your car levitates in the pictures with no seen supports, would love to do that mod too, or is it just "The Force"? Cheers Izzy
  15. Looks pretty good to me. Did you need any special tools to do this? Take any pictures through the procedure? I was thinking of doing the same, not sure of how hard it would be to do. How much lower is the car now? Wondering you got a reference point you measured before and after. Thank you, car looks more track ready too. Izzy
  16. Gang, Just did my first Track Day with a 1999 996 at Kershaw Carolina Motorsport Park, SC. :drive: For those of you in the Carolinas and GA, a sweet spot you can get to from www.turn1motorsports.com. I was amazed at what this cars can do, and my instructor said I chicken out. I prefer the term "self preservation of skin and metal". But fun nonetheless. You should all try it if you havent. Went in with fresh stock pads and Blue ATF racing fluid and fresh oil change. Afterwards, the brakes are much softer, so was wondering if there are any tried and true maintenance tidbits to do port Track Day. Should I flush the fluid, change the pads, anything else? The car runs otherwise perfectly. Thank you Izzy
  17. I have found switching between yellow and blue fluid every other bleed helps with a visual check to ensure the "old" fluid is completely gone. It helps foolproof the process.
  18. Got a dealer suggestion to replace a part, leak from "left side cam solenoid seal". The part number is 99610522352. Could not find any info one replacing the seal. Has anyone done it or have instructions? Before I spend the cash, the part is $18, labor $130. Thank you! Izzy
  19. Got a basic question. What is the proper way to measure the oil level on a 1999 996? The manual has two methods, the instrument panel and the dip stick. For the instrument panel, once you turn the key and wait for the count down, the display shows the level. The dipstick mentions the car at operating temp, then turn off and wait 10 minutes or so. When my car is cold (like in the morning), the instrument panel shows only one bar on the bottom, like if it was low. After running at temp, and letting it drain for 30 minutes, both the dipstick and the instrument show perfect fill. I am assuming to ignore the cold temp instrument, and go with the warm engine measure. The reason this just came up is that I only noticed the cold engine low oil level (instrument) after a dealer oil change (before I found this Forum) Of course, the car on a flat surface for all measurements. Thank you for your collective wisdom!
  20. I just did it and used "GOOF OFF", which is available at Home Depot to remove the adhesive, did a great job too. Thank you, visors are perfect and clean. :cheers:
  21. Try Warranties4wheels. The are very professional and pay with credit card. Also, you can sear the www.bbbonline.org for con-artists. A lot of the warranty companies change names and State and con customers. A lot of them are under investigation by State Attorneys. The BBB keeps good track of them. I got a 1999 that I bought with 35K miles, 4 year 100K miles for about $2100. Good luck with it. JC Dennis Warranties 4 Wheels Auto Warranty Specialists 1-877-844-7283 www.warranties4wheels.com :drive:
  22. Thank you Loren. I got more pics if needed for additional detail. My camera uses about 250Kb per frame on low resolution. Glad to be of help, this forum has helped me whole lot, and saved me a lot of cash! Izzy
  23. The frequency translates to a length of the anthena wire. For the US it is 130 mm long, about 5 inches. I will show that on the pics with a caliper I used to measure it off. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Look at the new post titled Insuficient Range..... It has the pics and steps to get this done in less than 1/2 hour. Easy job
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