Izzy

Darrin, Forgot to ask you a stupid question, do you mean from start or while on running on second gear? Big difference. From standing start, it is normal. Even though the car shows 2nd gear on the dash, it starts from first. Very briefly it does 1st, then second. Even on manual mode, when you set it to second on a stop light, and take off (when green, hopefully), it does go to 1ft, then second. If the problem is when you are running on second, and accelerate all of a sudden in manual, it should stay on second. Otherwise it is a problem likely with low or old transmission oil. Izzy

If you had your A/C on, very likely water. Hot day with high humidity would make it more noticeable. Coolant is green color, brake probably yellow or blue (look in the trunk for the color you have).

Zokie, I have the Schnell, cost me $99 at Ebay. It really is $99 for the silicone hose, which is expensive anyway. The Fabspeed removes the resonator and replaces it with a cap, using the same screws as the resonator. Have never seen one live, though. I did the same with the Schnell and added a pvc threaded cap and rubber gasket where the resonator goes, thinking the same effect, more airflow. Now here is the interesting part (experiment). I take a certain drive on Sunday morning, before 7 am, in a highway ramp that, once you are in it, there are no ins/outs for about 1 mile. So I feel safe going fast when there are no cars. This past weekend, did the same drive with the resonator removed, and I was surprised past 130 mph how much more room I had to go. Same conditions otherwise, full tank of gas, 58 degrees air temp, and just me driving. Not sure if I attribute the higher speed to removing the resonator from the air box, but it was the only change that I can recognized. I did not feel any other changes while accelerating, but I do know by some points in the straight ramp how fast I have gone, pedal to the metal. This time, after reaching 130, lets say I went much further than that and had room to continue before self preservation kicked in. I know the HP increases claimed by most of these devices are a figment of their marketing department imaginations. But I think of an engine as an air pump, air in, air out. So perhaps I had not maximized my intake since I placed the GHL high flow muffles a few months ago. Heading to the track this weekend, will let you know of any other "feels". But at least at high speeds, I did notice a change, much faster for the same distance.

Thank you Loren. Phil, for $900, I could fly out to Santa Monica with the wife, spend the weekend, and change the part. Save you $40. In other words, an easy to do job, shouldn't cost that much at the dealer.

I don't think Porsche recommends any 5/30 oils. 0/40 is the recommended for year round, and most people used a heavier viscocity for summer, like 5/50. Going to thinner oil for summer is probably a very bad idea. If you don't do it yourself and take it to mechanic, you can always buy the oil you want and hand it to them to use, for example 10 quarts of Syntec 5/50 ought to do it.

Phil, If it is the throttle control valve, it may be more of 10 minutes for me. The part for the 1999 is not expensive either, since it is not a potentiometer. I have done the job before, used carb cleaner also to clean the crud that accumulates on the throttle body butterfly as well as removing the switch and cleaning it. Here are some pictures, 4 bolts to remove the throttle body (and be careful with the paper gasket behind it), put on a bench and spray the cleaner on it. I used an old tootbrush too to remove the crud. 7.5 ftlbs of torque on the bolts. Of course, you got to take out the airbox and hose to get to the throttle body. That is assuming they are calling the throttle control the "idle control valve". I did not see any "idle control valve" in the manuals that I have.

Fuel supply could be it, Phil. The pump could have gone bad. Not sure if there is a fuel pump fuse, but check it out first. The other part is the fuel pump relay, on positon 13 of the relays. Take the relay out and see if it behaves the same when you try the ignition. The dealer can actuate the pump with their tester and see if is the pump or relay, if it indeed one of them is the culprit. Please keep us informed, I got a '99 too and will probably get the gremlins to visit me eventually. Have you changed the fuel filter, being a '99? It would not change overnight like you described, but can prevent fuel to get to the engine. Last ditch, any codes being recorded if you have a OBDII code reader?

Sounds right. After reading the post again "post-morning-coffee", he took out the SmartTop and it didn't make a difference. Statman, if it is under warranty (being an 2004), take it in. My best guess still is the fluid, and they should fix it under their nickel, check for any sensors, etc. If not, you could fill it yourself, piece of cake.

It may not be the SmartTop, but what you are describing sounds to me like the low hydraulic fluid condition. I had this problem until, took it tot he dealer, they fiddled with it and "filled" the hydraulic. It worked for a few weeks, a bit better but not perfect. Then I refilled the unit myself, easy to do, and it has been working perfectly ever since. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=6967 The link will take you to the DIY. Cost is almost nothing, since I used John Deere hydraulic fluid (about $4) and a small child medicine syringe (free at the drugstore). You can always remove the SmartTop and see if that cures it. But if you have to remove it, might as well check and add the fluid, same amount of work to get to it. Izzy

It is not hard to do. Pull the sun visor out of the car, use a "butter knife" flat rounded blade kinfe to pull mirror out. You can get to the lights that way. If you need to remove the light assembly, use the same type of knife to pry it out of the visor. It could be that one of the springs is bent badly and keeping the contact on. Should not be hard to "undo". The design is not gret on the visors, the springs tend to break easily. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=3142&hl= http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...2&hl=sun++visor

Skipp, Easiest thing to do is go down to Hendricks and ask one of the sales folks to see one of the used ones they have on the lot. That is what I did a while ago, some AC sound is normal. Hard to describe with words, but when you hear it in other 996s, you can tell if yours is loud or just the sound of AC going on.

Jason, sent you a PM with a PDF. The manual still says coolant is "life coolant", but still has draining and filling instructions Let me know how it goes Izzy

Check out this link http://www.bosbbb.org/reports/reliability_...rmId=0000089028

Loren has a great point, check with BBB and BBBOnLine for track record. Some companies change names every year or so and show up in a different state with a different name. The DA for Ohio was investigating a few (read in the news about a year ago), you may want to Google it and stay clear of the crooks. Check the Sate they operate from for complaints, that State Commissioner of Insurance for any history. I felt comfortable with the track record of Warranties for Wheels, and their history with BBBOn Line and BBB. But buyer beware. Don't let the websites lead you, some of the niftier websites are crooks. I have a 99 Cabrio, at the time it was 39K miles. This is the quote from December 2004: "This is for W4W Super Plus listed component bumper-to-bumper coverage for 4 years and 60,000 additional miles with a $50.00 deductible and wear and tear coverage. Add $200 for a true zero deductible. Towing, rental car, road- side assistance, seals, gaskets and full parts and labor replacement are included, along with most emission related components as well! This is the most comprehensive coverage in the industry available for your vehicle. The total paid in full is only $2155.00. On certain programs monthly payments are available. Please call for details. This rate includes all applicable discounts, totaling $275.00 on this class of vehicle. This quote is good through Dec 31, 2004." I have not used it the warranty yet either. But my dealer did recognize them and the fact that when they authorize work, it is done through a credit card (theirs) so no waiting for PO's or checks. Good luck and search carefully Izzy

I used Warranties 4 Wheels. Here is the information on them. Jay C- Warranties4wheels.com [jayc@warranties4wheels.com] JC Dennis Warranties 4 Wheels Auto Warranty Specialists 1-877-844-7283 www.warranties4wheels.com

Thanks Kim, I was wondering about that. I did some probing last night and found some other previous posts under "lumbar". One recommended a clean solution. Reach your fingers inbetween the seatback and the side bolster where the arrow points and pull carefully. You will notice the seatback is only attached on the top and bottom. Now you can see into the back of the seat area, limited access. Insert some "lumbar" support as needed to satisfy your back. A piece of foam could work, and it will be hidden from view. When you reach in there, see if you can feel or see anything where the lumbar support is supposed to be. I did not see or feel anything myself.

David, mine looks exactly like yours. I am not sure know exactly what the 537option is. If it is lumbar support, why isn't there an adjustment knob or button? The owners manual shows a button for lumbar support adjustment. So what is the purpose of the option without the ability to adjust? I got to pick up some parts at the dealer later this week, will see if they can shine a light on the subject. Hopefully I won't get the same answer you got at your dealer! Izzy

Loren, If I understand correctly, items 1 and 8 are needed to be added to use the lumbar? What about 16, the actual adjustment knob? Thank you Izzy

One easy way is to change colors every change, from ATE Superblue to Gold. That way is postive that the flow is there. Otherwise, if you are changing from gold to gold, you will see the dirtier or darker fluid come out first, then the cleaner and clearer new one later.

This is a good question. The option 537 if you look at the Online Docs Menu, Option Codes Lookup, it shows option 537. The description is "SEATING POSITION CONTROL FOR CONFORT SEAT, LEFT" This is a good question. The option 537 if you look at the Online Docs Menu, Option Codes Lookup, it shows option 537. The description is "SEATING POSITION CONTROL FOR CONFORT SEAT, LEFT" I have it, but never bothered to check to see what the heck it is as an option. Let me know what you find out, can benefit more of us. Izzy sticker_in_trunk.bmp

Does the radio face open up so you can put in a CD? If so, I recommend cleaning the contacts on the bottom when you remove the radio faceplate. They get a bit dirty. I got a 99 about 18 months ago, same problem. Do you have the radio manual? The faceplate just pulls out. I used a q-tip and alcohol. Electrical contact cleaner is probably better.

Jo996, I had the same situation, it only occured during fast driving and the temp light was blinking. It was low on coolant, about half a cup it was all that was low. The system is very sensitive and can trigger the low coolant. Do a quick fill, then take the drive from Venlo to Cologne.

Well, the good news is that nothing is permanent on these cars. So far, I mounted it on top of the steering column, and it obscures the dash warning lights. But I am using a tiny velcro strip, so can move it when starting the car or anytime. But my logic was, if one of those lights goes, very likely will be after turn 10 in Road Atlanta with my hair (what's left) on fire. And when I get on track, all the equipment like V1 will be off anyway, so will see the lights. I will try for a week, see how it feels. This morning's drive, took me a while to get used to looking down at the steering column, as my eyes naturally want to follow the sound when the unit chirped. But the location just seems so convinient. I don't like the rattling from the detector clip on bumpy roads though, need to find something to dampen it, prevent the metal to metal. I will hit Home Depot later for some cheap foam tape.

Kim, Followed your lead above and it was a piece of cake. I did somethings different. 1. I removed the A pillar trim, following similar method as "Extending Remote Range"in DIY. It was a 2 minute job. 2. By doing this, the power cord has plenty of room to pass through dash. I used a wire hanger, pushed from the under dash along A pillar, and pulled the cord. 3. Used the same wire hanger to pull the phone cable for the remote display. Otherwise, and easy installation was the same. Now it is so much easier to hear the chirps with the top down, and see the lights by the steering column. Thanks Izzy

Has anyone with a Schnell cold air kit lost the red cap and black caps yet? I had some times found the cap on top of the air box, like it was blown out. But when I did an oil change this weekend, the caps are gone, not to be found. I do some "spirited" driving earlier, but have not looked in the engine bay for a while, so not sure when it blew. I will contact Vertex see if they can get me a replacement. But I am concerned as to why it would happen. I still have the resonator muffler in the air box, so no air can enter through. Izzy