Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

wross996TT

Contributing Members
  • Posts

    1,215
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by wross996TT

  1. You need a real Porsche code reader....durametric, PST2 or PIWIS. I recommend the durametric, it will be well worth the investment.
  2. That's what they all say....so if you really mean it, you will be fine with upsolute....if you are thinking longer term, talk to the tuners before you jump. (Todd @Proto, Kevin @UMW, Tony@EPL, Stephen @IA,...)
  3. So what? It is law to have at least 10% ethanol in all pump fuels in CO....will not cause this effect by itself.
  4. No this is a bad assumption....easily could be the brake sensor....like Loren says, get it scanned.
  5. I say just a coincidence....the durametric will find the codes and clear the airbag code.
  6. There is no way to do it correctly...Loren's approach is to have one of the sensors "open" so you get a warning beep indicating the car has an fault condition...the double press of the remote button disables the IR sensors so the beep essentially signals a fault condition as well.
  7. It sounds like an intermittent problem. First check the connection of the SmartTop module (I assume you know how to get to it). It sometimes becomes loose. make sure there is a velcro strap holding it in tight. If that is not it, then call Wilhelmy (it may need to be replaced).
  8. 2 minutes in the penalty box....OK First, Does the top work if you hold the button (not the one touch)? Sequence the roof down-up and then try again.
  9. Mine is in the front trunk next to the spare, driver side. this file might help most.pdf
  10. Mine is installed (actually bolted) to the amp frame. Very easy to get at the power and optic ring.
  11. P1128 360 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 1 - Below Limit Possible fault cause ♦ Incorrect signal from MAF sensor ♦ Fuel pressure too high ♦ Fuel injector leaking ♦ EVAP canister purge valve op
  12. Uh....doubt the can had any effect on the CEL. Get the codes read or we can play land of a thousand guesses. The OBD port is just above and to the right of the fuse box.
  13. An exploding coolant tank, because of a leaking cap? I'd watch out on the advice you get from "that other forum". I have had the cap leak....just replaced it when I noticed it, so I agree with Loren (as usual)
  14. my recommended pressures are on the fuel filler door. 50+ is way too high cold.
  15. 1 more thing to add to Izzy...make sure the control unit has not come un-plugged (or is loose)....do you know how to get to that module?
  16. Well...it could be a number of things. First, get the codes read. Second, make sure the MAF is installed correctly (it can be installed backwards). Make sure wires are OK. You say you have the K&N...can you use a dry filter? You could have blown the MAF again.... Driving the car with those codes (if they are truly MAF related) will not hurt the car...it essentially is in limp mode (and protects itself). Plugs more likely would explain problems with power throughout the band, not just initial. Of course you could have a problem with coil packs...that is why you need the codes read.
  17. It requires a rather lengthy treatise on representative sampling, measurement systems uncertainty and financially motivated bias.
  18. I would never base a buy on CR....Being a statistician unfortunately I know too much about their sampling methods...
  19. There are air intakes and intercoolers...different animals. The ICs cool the charged air, lower the temp. the denser the air and hence more power can be made through more efficient combustion. The stock ICs on a turbo are fine unless you: 1. track 2. drive in extremely hot ambient temps. 3. have high hp mods. The turbo ICs are essentially heat exchangers Air to liquid in water cooled Porsches. Intakes bring cold air into the system. I believe the ICs on a GT2 are more capable than a TT (996 or 997).
  20. I wish I could remember for you, but it was several years ago. Mine came out quite easily without any tools...I have an 04. Found this: Removing display and operator control unit (PCM 2) Note If the PCM is replaced by a new or a different PCM, read out the data with the Porsche System Tester before removal. => Teaching display and operator control unit (PCM 2) Switch ignition off and remove ignition key. 1. Unclip switch cover from below using a plastic spatula and disconnect electrical plug connections. 2. Insert a hexagon−socket wrench sideways into the screw connection of the PCM detent hooks. 3. Close the detents (2 each side) with the hexagon−socket wrench −A− and carefully pull out the PCM. 4. For re−installation, open the detents with the hexagon−socket wrench −B− .
  21. I have not heard of anyone using APR (on a Porsche). What do you mean control the software through the cruise control switch? AFAIK the programs must be loaded into the ECU, usually through the OBD port. About which flash to go with depends on what your ultimate goals are. You would like your tune to match your hardware, e.g., if you eventually go with hybrid turbos or new intake you'll need a tune to take advantage of them. GIAC and probably APR are what I would call off-the-shelf tunes...so if you stay with mostly stock hardware, they will probably work just fine. If you have higher aspirations, I suggest you talk to some tuners and get their advice (UMW, Proto, EVOMS, FVD, etc.)
  22. First, fastboy gave an excellent write-up... You get a Porsche Turbo because it is a Porsche turbo, seriously one of the best sports cars ever...a legend. The power is quite impressive. As far as reliability, I have had a bunch of things fixed under warranty (head unit, front dif, PS res, fuel lines & fuel pump (2x), O2 & MAF sensors, alarm unit). It is not a toyota, lexus, honda, et. al. I always carry a cell phone as I have been stranded 3 times. (My 3rd Porsche and they all have had issues). And I would still buy it again.
  23. Yes, you will need to reset the codes. You can do this with PST2, PIWIS, durametric or as you say disconnect the battery for ~10 minutes.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.