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0586slb

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Everything posted by 0586slb

  1. Do your horns work at all? If not, there may be a fuse blown, or water ingress to the horns that later causes the fuse to blow. If the fuse is intact and the horns work with a good press of the pad, the clicking of the relay (most probable if you have a 4-spoke wheel) is caused with the horn pad flapping and the very quick pick/drop of the relay is not enough time to start the beep. Its time to get the multimeter out.
  2. I'd like to jump in here with a query: In what order do you adjust the drum mechanism and the handbrake cable mechanism? I'm thinking one will interact with the other. So adjusting the drum mechanism until the rotor is unable to turn and then back-off, will that give the required 5 clicks on the handbrake? Chris
  3. I'd say from the pictures its a very early vintage of PCM, more likely PCM1. I would hold out for a late version PCM2 with the latest software.
  4. Have you tried any simple voltage measurements on your battery? Any multimeter will show if your battey is holding charge. A quick test is to load the battery for 1 minute by switching the headlights on, then after the minute switch everything off and measure the terminal voltage. If lower than 12.5V, the battery either needs a deep charge or probably renewing. How old is the battery? Typical life is three to five years.
  5. The scans are perfectly legible in both Firefox and Win IE. I suggest you either check the screen resolution or maybe purchase your own copy of the Factory Workshop Manual for your vehicle from Porsche...
  6. The switch surround is unclipped very easily with a couple of fingernails under the bottm edge and a firm tug. The switch will have just come unclipped from the switch surround so you just need to fish it out from the dash and clip everything back together.
  7. There is only one motor that does both sides. If you peer into your partially open clamshell, its right in the middle (just forward of the brake light) and has a bowden cable coming out of each end - one for the left side and one for the right. Keep searching in the 'Boxster Top Issues' subforum because you will be able to remove the cable and spin the inner to releive the pressure on the right side.
  8. If this works at all with closed loop lambda mixture control, as soon as the DME spotted the rev increase, it would close the throttle slightly to counteract it - you will probably not perceive an increase at all.
  9. C'mon, this has been doing the rounds for over a year now. I thought everyone had seen it by now...
  10. I had my Boxster S done when still under warranty. I thought they would have just humoured me and said it was a 'characteristic'. The difference was outstanding! Unfortunately I don't know where they lubed or what with. Possibly WD40 or some special Porsche equivalent.
  11. Just ask Orient Express to 'show you his' :blink: (Underbody pictures I mean...)
  12. Run the compressor and feel the pipes that run close to the battery, in the front plenum area. If they get cold, you have either a temperature flap motor or AC control unit fault.
  13. The AC control module lets the DME know when the compressor is running - the DME adjusts ignition timing, fueling and idle air to smoothe the idle. Incidentally, did you know that the AC compressor on later cars has a variable outlet? It doesn't just pump at 100% capacity when the AC clutch is engaged - rather it starts at about 25% to eliminate the 'clunk' and then varies the output to suit cooling demand, regardless of engine speed.
  14. Russ, I would love to be able to do what you suggested, in fact, I've done that many times before, but if you have a quick look at my original post, the driver's door is right up against the wall :D The car is still stored for winter so I'm going to have to try something soon, even if I have to tow/drag it out of the garage with wheels locked.
  15. For a given mass of air flowing over the sensor, the new MAF gives an entirely different signal to the DME. The DME would then calculate that the output of the MAF was implausible. The reprogram is so the DME knows what mass of air the new signal value represents. Aparantly the new MAF sensors are more robust and reliable.
  16. Just open your top to the service position. Look at the ends of the operating rods for the clamshell. They are held on by a clip that you lift the tongue with a screwdriver. Just have a look - you'll see how straightforward it is!
  17. Well, there are two attachment points per side, one being the operating rod and the other being the slide/hinge. The operating rod will be seconds as there is a spring clip that will pop off with a screwdriver. The slide/hinge is just a couple of bolts. Mark the attachment points first so there'll be no adjustments later.
  18. It sounds like it is connected to a pulley somewhere. With that amount of noise, everyone of the pulleys will be able to be checked by hand for excessive play or broken bearings. Your AC is probably going bad, probably related to this fault. (AC clutch/pulley, belt tensioner or any one of the pulleys as previously mentioned will upset the belt tension so will not be able to drive your AC correctly.) Who changed your belt? Anyone changing a belt in that condition has to give the pulleys a thorough check.
  19. :unsure: *Thankfully*, Porsche have made it as difficult as possible to bypass the Immobiliser. There are no documented or legitimate ways to bypass it. If it were fairly common knowledge, every $h1t-head of a car thief would just browse a forum like ours. The Immobiliser module and the key have a two way encrypted communication using the seed/response method. The Immobiliser module thinks of a random number and sends it to the key. The key then applies a 128 bit algorythm to it and sends the answer back. If the answer is as expected, the Immobiliser module then has a similar conversation wth the DME, with the encrypted seed/response. Only then, will the DME allow a start.
  20. You don't say what year or model your car is... Try to 'double click' the alarm button. This will make the alarm horn blip once, in this setting the interior motion sensors are switched off. If you still have false alarms, one of your perimeter switches is faulty. There is also an emergency setting of the alarm by 'tripple clicking' the alarm button. This is confirmed by a double blip of the alarm horn. I think this just locks the car. However, by either double or tripple clicking, the deadlocks are not set, so the doors can still be opened from the inside.
  21. When the window is at the top of its travel in the fully closed position, press the window switch again for a second or two. This will reset the 'pinch protection' on the window.
  22. 2002 UK RHD 986S. A couple of weeks ago, I parked the car in the garage. To give enough clearance to get past the car, I parked with the driver's door right up against the wall and popped over the passenger seat and got out of the passenger door. However, as you all pick yourselves up off the floor from laughing, you'll realise I'm locked out of the car. The alarm has gone into the sleep/shutdown mode (after 5 days) and I obviously can't get to the drivers door - let alone unlock it. I can't get the windows down - as the remote will not respond. I can't tow the car out of the garage as the handbrake is on and the wheels are steered towards the wall. I suppose I could try to release the bonnet (hood) with the emergency cable, but what then? If I disconnect then reconnect the battery, will this bring the Central Locking out of sleep mode? As the car is UK spec, when I disconnect the battery, the alarm will sound as you have to disconnect with the ignition switched on...
  23. Loren will probably move this to the correct place, but in answer to your question: Has it been cold outside? If the AC is operated below an outside temperature of 4°C, the compressor is automatically shut off, as there is no need for it. If its a lot warmer, there could be many other reasons why the AC is shutting off, from a low R134A pressure, through a high engine temperature to DME intervention.
  24. I don't know whether it does or not, but your driving may have improved so you notice the intervention less. As you become smoother and more progressive with your driving, you will be subconciously correcting the things that PSM woud have sorted for you, before PSM gets a chance - if you know what I mean. If you just throw your car into a turn, PSM will grab straight away, but if you progressivey control the car, you will be able to approach and feel the 7% slip that is programmed into PSM - and enjoy it.
  25. Try resetting the 'anti-pinch' feature by pressing to close the window, then when fully closed (with door shut) press and hold the window switch to close again and hold for at least 1 second. If that fails, to check the door handle microswitches are working, gently pull the handle (try both outer and inner handles) until you her the microswitch click. If the interior light comes on at this poit, the microswitches are OK.
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