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rockjock

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Everything posted by rockjock

  1. rockjock
    I realized after I installed that I too have the old bayonet style lock-and I guess I dont mind too much-I'm coming from turbo cars with loud exhaust-the bump from the top and a couple rattles over the MN roads are not enough to bother me (personally). I hear good things about the new set up-but I'm happy with the HT installed for the winter only here-the roads are already in rough rough shape.
  2. rockjock
    I had the HT delete as well-but had to install all new hardware to accept the top and pins-I used the two hex bolts to lower (or raise) the pin height until I could crank on the allen wrench and lock the pin in place in the car (as tight as posible)-in the cold (below zero) it creaks more-but in the 20's+ its been pretty good-I also lubed and siliconed as much of the contact area as I could prior to setting it on the car (both top and car rubber).
  3. rockjock
    Funny-I traded in my Benz (C55) for an 04 C4S-local owner-30k miles on it-stored it every winter. Blew up 5 days after I took it-got a new motor in 3 weeks-the one thing I've learned with a 996 (so far) is that if it hasnt been driven-I'd walk....but def a low mile find!
  4. rockjock
    I hate reviving old/dead threads-but after some searching (I've been practicing that!)-I'm running into some "issues" with replacement wiper blades-I've tried Rain X, Bosch, and Michillen-the prob that I'm running into is that even with the largest adapter in the shepards hook-they are still loose (as compared to the OEM wiper from the dealer I kept)-any suggestions? Is there a spec. 22" from RainX I should be looking at? Thanks as always!
  5. rockjock
    Tire pressure is a subjective #-here in MN I change mine depending on temp (it can fluctuate from 20's down to -20 in a week)-as well as snow depth (we're just now starting a 6-10" snow day here). I'm also running the LM25's-like them so far (as compared to Yoko W drive in the past)-I'm running on a C4S Cabrio (04)-bought AM rims from Tire Rack (5 spoke Turbo knock offs) that are 18x8 front and 18x10 rear-no spacers-traction has been fine so far-I dont know that adding 10-25mm in track will improve enough in winter to notice (I drive pretty hard all the time-but with snow and cold-I slow down too). Optimizing traction would really depend on tire choice and pressures-I think you're looking more for handling char. of the car?
  6. rockjock
    I was just barley born in the late late late 70's-whats a cassette :D?
  7. rockjock
    Bummer. But it figures-I've yet to own 9 cars in 5 years that one of them does all that I want :)
  8. rockjock
    Nice find-so...noob ?-how do I tell what I have in radio? I have an 04 C4S with PCM (3.0 I recently found out too!)- good find on the BB cord!
  9. rockjock
    Congrats on the fix, but I cant get over-you made 10' extensions for your headlamp? You need to roof mount that at least once and drive a bit :lol:
  10. rockjock
    My 04 C4s Cabrio did the same thing-I used some sillycone spray on the mech and it worked great (try not to spray the pedal, stuff is slippry I guess ;) ).
  11. rockjock
    Sounds like you're hitting the brakes so hard its compressing the cover into the horn....thats pretty cool! My guess (only a guess-I havent torn a steering wheel apart) would be that the shudder from the ABS is moving the contacts just as you think-could be a lose clip/corrosion of some kind that built up- OT a little-how often are you engaging the ABS? I've yet to trip mine and I drive like a tard almost everywhere!
  12. rockjock
    Check your tool kit too-I found mine already installed in the bolt extension-could hardly tell it was there.....
  13. rockjock
    This isnt going to help...but kinda funny now that I read your post- I bought a CPO 04 996 C4S Cabrio-6 spd 30k miles on it-locally owned-stored every winter at the dealer (great records of the car)-bought the car on Sat-blew the engine the next Friday (hole in the cam cover the size of a quarter)-and my wife was driving it...so no, it wasnt me having fun :) New (rebuilt)3.6L installed-been beating the $#%^ out of it since and everything so far (2k miles) has been good.
  14. rockjock
    http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?a...=%2BP1340+FAULT search worked for me.....
  15. rockjock
    The P car CEL doesnt flash when its knocking, does it? My Mitsu did...was kinda nice on a turbo car....
  16. rockjock
    Fuel Inj Latency should be checked on the maps-was there a temp change since the tune? (more then 10 deg.) I dont see this as a hardware issue-but prob more of a tuning issue-road test tune or dyno tune? You stated stumble is at steady thrtl position-do you have logs that you can upload? (I'd like to see RPM, IAT, Engine Loan-calculated or not), Thrtl position sensore, vehicle speed). Sounds like you're hitting the stumble when the turbo spools to max boost and there is prob an AFR issue (too rich?).
  17. rockjock
    My passenger was doing the same-I used a can of spray silicone and a towel to keep it where it needed to be and worked great!
  18. rockjock
    63 FT/lbs is what my PET shows.....
  19. rockjock
    Looks like just the cable and not the software-I know Loren has posted several times that PIWIS is not cheap....
  20. rockjock
    Just to be a nice guy-let me know where its at-and I'll make sure she turns over and starts right up for ya ;) Pics of the trip!
  21. rockjock
    I swapped mine out (04 996 C4S-orig battery) this Sat with a duralast from autozone (49 series 1000amp 960 CC for MN winters ;) )-took 15 min and was only $84 after turning in my old OEM battery. Notice the car starts right up with little cranking. Hand to finagle the bracket-the battery went past the last threaded hole for the base plate-I had to use a bolt and nut and holt the nut from the bottom with pliers-battery isnt going anywhere.
  22. rockjock
    I dont own a TT-but coming from Turbo'd cars (Evo's and mazdaspeed's) I'd look first at the timing and ignition tables for your tune- do you run an AFR gauge? tuned for 93 oct, ect? I would start with the tune tables and see if there is anything that needs to be changed to fit your mods (if this is not a custom dyno tune)-then start with fuel del.-pump, injcetors, ect. If you're hitting full boost about the time the CEL is flashing, that could/would be a indicator of knock (does the Porsche flash the knock count for you?). Boost leak? I know thats all over-sorry-I'd start with a boost leak,then tables, then fuel-I'm guessing its in the tables.... at least you get the supermodel....I got Ugly Bettie :D
  23. rockjock
    I cant speak for your area-but I know around MN everyone shy's way from copying a know logo-it can be considered infringment in some cases-best bet is the patch and sew that on-or buy a Porsche jacket...
  24. rockjock
    While I agree with Lorens test (not to step on toes) at 42 months-it may be easier and more cost effictive (if you are being charged for the testing)-to look at a new battery-its almost time (and the swap may be faster!).
  25. rockjock
    Its actually best for longer storage to add any stabilizer in the fuel-run the car to get the fluid in the lines-and store with a full tank of gas-if jacking the car up-be sure not to go so high as to expose the shock/struct tubes (really no need to remove the tire and rim). I cant remember but you are also to leave the vents fully opened or closed (for small animals-I'm thinking its closed). Cars dont need ventilation-they're cars :P
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